jmatta

jmatta-

Yeah... after I received the part I realized I didn't know what to put in its place! When you say bottom, do you mean the very bottom storage bin that is slightly curved (the one that is displaced by the relocated climate control) or the one right above it?

If you look at the picture, the radio is in the "top lower" position; the bin in the "botttom lower" position. The bottom bin has the curved sides which match the lower compartment (just like the face plate). When the ac controls are in the upper dash, the face plate is rectangular. The bin below the ac control in my car (refer to pic) would not fit in the upper most dash position, due to size differential. Please note my car is an'02; your car may have slightly different size openings.

Hey 99miata,

Still working with your console? I had no problem moving the radio to the lower position; it fits right into the slot and locks in. The toughest part is fishing the wires down and the a/c control wires up. The bottom storage bin snaps right in after you remove the tab on top (I used a file). I suppose I should have taken pictures, but I always remember that after the job is done.

I thought my car was low...some of those pics showed REALLY LOW cars. I have have enough trouble with steep drives (H&R sports, lowered about 1.4")

The Stuttgart top is far more attractive than the Cayman style top. I agree, if you want the Cayman look, buy a Cayman. I only drive my car in warm weather, so I don't require a hard top; but if I did it would be the Stuttgart.

insite,

Yes, that is with the H&R sports. I have not had a chance to put my car side by side with a ROW M030; only US versions (and my car was noticably lower).

I understand your dilema about the dual use tire...about the best I can recommend would be Pilot Sport Cups; fairly decent in rain, last a long time, sticky, but expensive.

Something else to spend money on...I still appreciate my B&M, though. Huge improvement over stock.

insite,

Great write-up. I do alot of track work, but not in my Boxster S. Even though, I run about -.9 camber front; rears are set at -2.5. I went the H&R sport spring route, as I have no desire to track this car. This lowered the car overall around 1.4" from the stock setup. I'd like more negative camber up front, just haven't got around to it. I drive my Boxster for street fun, reserve track time for my 911.

I'm surprised that you run street tires, as it sounds like you visit the track fairly often. The tread depth just does not lend itself to performance track driving; and why shave a perfectly good street tire? The cornering forces will blister and chunk a street tire miserably. A good compromise is a Yoko or Michelin DOT R compound; just don't expect the stick or a Hoosier or like.

I believe the 2003 ducts/grills are one piece painted the same color as the car exterior, instead of being body color with black inserts. I, personally, like a contrast and painted the grills Artic Silver on my '02 S. Brings them out and matches the wheels nicely.

vvortex3,

I'm glad to hear you solved your problem, but if you keep reving the engine to redline while cold, you will need a new motor. It's got over 80k miles on it; be wise.

The bottom position only requires four mounting screws and a new face plate. You need to fish the harness down from above, but that's about it. I also have the bottom face plate, in perfect condition, if anybody wants it.

FrayAdjacent986: Get yourself some contact cleaner from Home Depot or Radio Shack; that should clean up the sticky mess. Somebody spill that in my car and I would knock them over the head!

Interesting, because my car is extremely stable with this alignment. I am sensitive to a car responding to my wheel input, thus the toe out. I have none of the twitchiness associated with the setting, as it's very minor (unlike my track 911). I'll have to see about tire wear as my car is driven about 2500 miles a year; the tires will get hard before they wear out.

For what it's worth, after my H&R sport springs were installed on my '02 S, the car was aligned. Looking at the printout, I see my front camber is - .8* and toe out is .05*. Rear camber is -2.6 and toe out is .10*

This is not an aggressive alignment as my car is only street driven (my 911 sees all track duty). The car is very responsive in normal/sprirted driving.

Very cool...I love to see the hidden parts of my car that I've yet to discover. The only time I've had the engine cover off was to install the Evo Hi Flow, but it's only traveled 11k miles at this point.

THANKS Jmatta!! I emailed that to myself.... now to find the parts, then get them ordered... and get the cubby things for the lower positions.

SC986 - I moved the radio down because I didn't like the look of the two storage bins together.

FrayAdjacent986 - The storage bins are parts number 996.552.253.01 Upper 996.552.243.01 Lower. All parts can be ordered through "Pelican Parts" as a special order. Mine only took about 10 days to receive.

Did you have to remove half your interior to get at the belt? What a PITA if so.

That's why I recommended finding a welder to do the mod for you. Looks simple enough. If I had to do it over again, that's what I'd do.

BTW, I didn't pay full price for mine. Bought it from a fellow who ordered it for his car, but sold the car before installation. Shipping to the states would have killed me.

Here is the write-up from PCA Tech...

Question:

I would like to move the a/c unit to the top and place it where the cup holders are.

Is this a problem and where could I find instructions?

Thanks,

Steve

Answer:

Yes, you can move the AC unit back up to the top, where it is normally

located on a vehicle without cupholders. First remove the side cover on

the lower console by pulling the rear of the covers towards the outside of

the car. Pull off the cover of the AC control unit and put to the side.

Unscrew the 4 screws holding the AC unit in and pull towards you. Unplug

the connectors on the rear, they only go into one of the spaces so you

don't have to memorize the locations. Next pull off the switch covers on

either side of the cupholder by using a screwdriver on the bottom of the

holder and pulling to the rear. They should pop off. Now remove the

cupholder cover by popping off the cover from the side and remove the

cupholder assembly by removing the screws holding it in. Now you will

have to fish down to get the harness for the AC head up to the top

location. To install the AC head you will have to buy 2 brackets and a

face plate. The frame is 9965576770001c and the 2 brackets to line up the

AC head are 99657350100. Just install those parts and the AC head should

just slide in the slot, install the screws and the face plate and now have

your AC up top.

Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 6/3/2002

Get one of these or finder a welder that can modify yours. Should not be difficult to do. I have one on my '02 S and the sound is terrific. This is a stock factory muffler with bypass tubes welded in. Simple, but brilliant.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Porsche-Boxster-986-2-...1QQcmdZViewItem

Any guess how long it takes for the foam to disintegrate? Did Porsche update the door material in later models? My car is approaching 5 years old and wonder if or when this will happen. It has about 11k miles on it now; is not driven in winter.

I did this; it's pretty straight forward. I even moved my stereo down to the bottom position (it's rarely used anyway). I also felt the cupholders were a waste of space. Here's a pic of my interior. I'll look up the part numbers when I get a chance. You need a couple of brackets and a new face plate for the climate control. I replaced my CD holder with another storage bin, as well. Handy for phones, etc. I think this cost me all of $10...(plus the cost of the storage bins).

I have the B&M in my '02 S...you get what you pay for. No cheap Chinese knockoffs in my car.

Just kidding nik; looking forward to seeing your car in whole. I'm sure it's going to be very attractive. Bought a new camera as this old one took fuzzy pictures. However, the car is in storage to April.

Here's mine with Carrera Classics and red calipers for LVDell...

Would it even be drivable? Can't wait to see the answer to this one.

Seems like performing brain surgery for a simple headache, to me.