Waffen

I don't know if this is your issue or not, but I once had an oil change done by a new mechanic (I was out of town). He either overfilled the reserve or spilled some, but I was getting white smoke for a day or two and then an oil smell for about 2 months afterwards. After that it's been fine. I just assumed this was oil cooking off the engine.

PS: I am guessing it is not inside the door, but time will tell!

Thank you both for the info! It appears the culprit may be an old rubber outer seal on the window. It looks like it's allowing more vibration than it should and appears to be allowing the rattle. I'll replace it this weekend and see if that fixes the issue.

Does anyone know what the differences between the 993 C2 suspension, and the 993 GT2 suspension were, if any?

p-car.com has an excellent suspension FAQ. I've not re-read it to see if it answers your question, but it might be a good place to start.

http://p-car.com/susfaq.html

well, it was somewhat tedious, but with the help of my wife, (I drove, she watched the display on the scan tool) I managed to get the monitors to set - I used the AutoXray 6000 OBD monitor to watch the engine load, and drove in the RPM range indicated in the manual for about 20 minutes, keeping the continuous driving segments as long as possible. The indicated load is very low, if you don't have the specs or a reader to show engine load, try about 30 mph in third gear with minimal throttle - you want to be between 1500 and 2000 rpm with just a tiny bit of load on the engine, just a little more than idle. And, when you start the car, let it idle until the SAI cuts off (about 120 sec) - don't know if that helped or not, but now I'm happy.

Good to know. I had to run mine about 500 miles before I got a good reading. Of course, most of this was freeway driving, so maybe that explains it.

I ended up taking mine apart and fixing it. It seems to work fine now. Mostly it looks like there was some residue on some of the components that needed cleaning up. I suspect this might be caused by a damp environment, but it's hard to be sure.

Anyway, I'm a happy camper and saved myself a load of cash..

Over rough roads (ie: just about everything in San Francisco) I've been getting a pretty annoying rattle from the passenger side door. I took apart the door last weekend to see if I could fix it but I ran into a plastic seal under the door cover that appears to be glued to the door's metal and didn't want to mess with it. Are these things just not made to be dismantled or am I missing something here?

I'm also getting an RPM related rattle from the rear right (kicks in at about 3000 RPM+) and I can't think of what this could possibly be.

I've been wanting to pick up the tech manuals, but I don't really do enough DIY work to justify the nearly $300 price tag.

Thanks for the response. I'd heard that you need to let the motor idle for a while before shutting down, something about letting the turbos cool down. Didn't know if that was just misinformation, sounded fishy but since I'm a pretty green as far as gas turbos I thought I'd put it out there.

Regards,

EZ

From what I was told this is only an issue if the Turbo actually kicks in. The baseline I've heard was it needs at least 30 seconds to cool down after engaging. If you're not driving hard enough to kick in the turbo this shouldn't be an issue. Frankly, unless I'm screwing around intentionally the turbo has never kicked in for me during city driving - That kind of accelleration just isn't needed - so it's never been an issue.

On a related note.. Anyone know of a cheaper source for a hardcopy repair manual than the $300+ I've been seeing through my searches?

The climate control unit on my 95 993 isn't working properly. When either the A/C, max A/C or recirculating buttons are pressed, the fan ceases in the cockpit after about 2 seconds (but a fan noise can still be heard coming from inside the dash). When the A/C or max A/C buttons are depressed (released), the fan begins blowing again and cold air can be felt for a moment or two. Accordingly, it appears that the CCU is shutting down interior (to the dash) vents?? when these buttons are pressed. My local dealer estimates a replacement CCU to be in the neighborhood of $1k + labor. I have noticed a few sites selling remanufactured CCUs, but I'm worried I may be paying for someone else's problem. Does anyone have any advice regarding this type of issue?

Thank you.

I'm curious how you resolved this issue. I realize this is an old post but I'm having the same problem in my 993 now and have been debating the merits of buying a $300 used unit instead of a $1000 reconditioned unit.

I'm also curious if this is a common problem on 993s.. Do these things just tend to go bad after a while? If so I'd rather shy away from a used unit. It seems like there are a lot of them for sale out there so there must be a demand for them.

Anyone else have experience with this?

The light has gone out on my 993 on-board computer (the one at the bottom of the tachometer).

Any one out there replace one before?

Need some instructions.

Thanks,

Jeff

I have the same problem on my 993. I got a quote on this and it was over $500, and this was while the dash was already dismantled to replace some other lights. The technician said it was a royal pain in the *** and if he was going to charge me this much for it I figured I wasn't going to take it on myself.

Seems like a pretty major screw up on the design side to make this such a pain, but whatever. I'm learning to squint.. ;-)