AviSalem

On 3/31/2017 at 7:35 PM, Loren said:

When you lock the car with a remote key button do you get a beep?

If so it is the alarm.

 

Hey Loren, any ideas??

Sounds like it could be the microswitches when you pull the latch. Under the "alien" eyes there are 2 for screws. Once you remove those, there are 2 small gold retainer clips holding the microswitch in place. Carefully remove those with needle nose pliers and pool at all the soldering points on the switch. If temperature changes affect the top working, my guess is that there is a hairline crack in the soldering. Apply some solder to all the points and see if that fixes your problem.

Avi

Hi all,

I am trying to figure out why my convertible top isn't working. The windows don't roll down a few inches when the latch is released, and the convertible top does nothing when the open/close switch is pressed. I have already tried 3 different microswitches and none of them changed anything. I did the relay test and failed on #8 which is pin #13 and #23, I get no voltage when The latch is opened. With The key turned on, I measured voltage at The pins where it plugs into the switch at 4.5v. Something is going on, can it be The relay? Or bad wiring from the relay panel? Any other troubleshooting advice or guidance would be amazing. The brake light comes on the dash so I don't think that's the problem.

Thanks,

avi

microswitch

On 5/3/2017 at 10:58 AM, AviSalem said:

Hi All,

 

So update since last post, I had to take my car to Porsche as a local Indie dealer said I needed a alarm module and new Key. $1200 later my windows are working! The top is still not working though and the windows won't drop when opening the latch. I found a post somewhere on testing the relay panel (where the double convertible top relay plugs in), and it seems that when checking voltage on pins 23 and 13, and the roof latch is open, I should get 12 volts, and I am not (all other tests passed). So I assumed it was the roof latch micro switch and changed it out, twice, and nothing, so I checked the original switch with my multimeter and the switches are functional. I assume at this point that either the wiring got fried, or could it be that those pins on the relay panel got fried? I am looking for suggestions on how to approach this. Also, the function when turning the key in the door to drop or raise the windows is not working, I am not sure if these are connected problems. Please help!

 

 

Thanks

Anyone?

Hi All,

So update since last post, I had to take my car to Porsche as a local Indie dealer said I needed a alarm module and new Key. $1200 later my windows are working! The top is still not working though and the windows won't drop when opening the latch. I found a post somewhere on testing the relay panel (where the double convertible top relay plugs in), and it seems that when checking voltage on pins 23 and 13, and the roof latch is open, I should get 12 volts, and I am not (all other tests passed). So I assumed it was the roof latch micro switch and changed it out, twice, and nothing, so I checked the original switch with my multimeter and the switches are functional. I assume at this point that either the wiring got fried, or could it be that those pins on the relay panel got fried? I am looking for suggestions on how to approach this. Also, the function when turning the key in the door to drop or raise the windows is not working, I am not sure if these are connected problems. Please help!

Thanks

I never had a working remote, and I'm pretty sure whenever I turned the key twice in the past it beeped. At this point I'm not convinced it's the alarm, but I'm open to any other tests. Would the convertible top relay have anything to do with the windows?]

Question, when I turn the key once to the right, the doors lock and the red light on the radio is blinking. The horn beeps once only if I turn the key twice to the right. I disconnected the battery and discharged the car, when I reconnected there was still no alarm faults. Where do I go from here?

Thanks

5 minutes ago, Loren said:

A real one or chinese knock-off?

A real one with the latest software should tell you what zone is open.

A real one, running version 6.5.2 I believe 

2 minutes ago, Loren said:

What are you using to read the alarm system control module?

I got the Durametric cable, enthusiast version.

Thanks

Could this be a relay issue? I'm not sure if the power windows run through the same double relay as the convertible top.

2 hours ago, Loren said:

If you are getting a beep then you are getting a fault code from the open zone.

I'm not sure why but there are no fault codes present. The only thing is that it is showing a yellow exclamation mark but is not showing any faults. 

8 hours ago, Loren said:

What alarm faults do you now have?

 

Hey Loren, I am not getting any alarm faults now. Just 1 beep of the horn when I lock the doors. Windows and top still not working.

I'd also like to point out that the door lock button on the center console will not light up, the light by the front windshield is not blinking, and when I turn the key to lock the door it won't beep unless I turn the key to the lock position twice. It will beep once, but there's no fault code coming up

On 3/26/2017 at 0:36 PM, Loren said:

The burnt resistor is not normal.

You could try replacing just that - but you may need a new board.

Hey All,

I purchased a replacement sensor and installed it. I cleared the 34 fault code, unplugged the durametric, went through a couple of cycles locking and unlocking the door (my fob doesn't work so I always use the key). Tried the windows and top and still nothing!! I checked for any faults again and there's nothing. I'm losing my mind! Also before ordering the sensor I did go through the other steps listed above. What else can I do? I really don't want to take it to a shop.

Thanks

Thanks Loren, I'm going to go the new board route, do you have a part number? The number that the durameteic has isn't coming up with any results.

Thanks 

2 hours ago, Loren said:

You are the man, thanks! So I started pulling things apart to see what's going on. So far, I am seeing 12v for the first test, will continue forward now. Just thought you guys would want to see this, I don't think it is normal looking, I'm guessing this is my issue.

3 hours ago, Loren said:

 

Short circuit to B+

You need no shorts in the alarm, door locks, and windows for them all to work - and you do have a fault. They all run through the same control unit.

You also need a good battery.

Any tips on how to troubleshoot this? I'm not sure where to start.

Thanks,

Avi 

Hey Loren, could that be connected to my window issue?

Hey Guys,

I received mt Durametric in the mail and hooked it up. There were some fault codes in the alarm, I have cleared them and everything with the alarm sounds good now, no double beep. My windows still do not work though. I tested the power going to the motor, 12 volts. I tested the resistance going to the switches and it is good. How is it that there is power going to the motor but no power at the switches? I would say it is a bad motor but the windows will drop and close when I use the door handles. Do you think the driver side motor could be a problem? Any help would be appreciated!

Correction, now the alarm is giving me the double beep again with code 34 for the internal sensor :(

I'm looking at the switches now and am testing the voltage to see if any power is getting to the switch. I am not seeing 12 volts on either plug, on any of the 5 terminals each plug has. There is power in the fuses box at C3 and D1. Could it be the relay? Keep in mind the window will drop a few centimeters for the doors opening and closing. Also probably worth noting, when the cable broke, I tried putting 12v to C3 and down to pop the trunk. I have a feeling I fried something.

Thanks

Can anyone explain to me what I need to do to ohm test the fuse box. From what I gather I will disconnect the battery and essentially see if any charge goes through from the switch to the fuses? Also, if my window drops a little when opening the door, does that rule out the relay?

1 minute ago, JFP in PA said:

 

I would scan the car with a Porsche specific tool like the PIWIS or Durametric system, looking for pending codes.

Is my cheapest option the Durametric enthusiast for $300+?

Anyone please??

1 hour ago, Boxtaboy said:

Sounds like the power connection to the center console isn't there (eg. window and parking brake switches). When you pull up the parking brake, does the red light indicate that parking brake is up (in the instrument cluster)? If that parking brake isn't seen as activated, your top will not operate. I know you said you checked the fuses, but I would assume the fuse for the parking brake and window switches would be the same, and start there.

Thanks for the feedback, actually the parking brake light does come on the dash. Is there a way to reset the top?

Hi All,

So I changed one of my battery cables that had completely snapped off from where it connects to the power distributor. After putting a new cable on, car starts up fine, door lights and interior lights work, radio, door lock, air conditioner all work. The windows will drop down and go back up when I open and close the doors, but will not operate from my switches. The top will not do anything either now. I tried turning and holding the key in the door in the unlock position to see if the windows would drop like that, no such luck. Any ideas? I am thinking about completely disconnecting the battery and connect the two cables together to discharge the car, and reconnect after 15 minutes and see if it "Resets". Any other advice would be helpful, I checked all the fuses before I changed out the cable, thinking it was a fuse problem, they were all good.