Charles Bradley

Apparently the wiring harness for the vehicle now has problems. Everything worked when I dropped it off except the Xenon headlamp.

They swapped the modules and ballasts and determined the module was a culprit. Replaced module with a 3.5 week wait.

After putting in a new module, the high beams on both sides stopped working. Eventually found that "someone" put in a 30A fuse where there should've been a 20A fuse, and flipping on the high beams fried the wire. Wired directly, bypassing the fuse and now the high beams work. 🤨

When he pulled it out today for me to pick up, the wipers aren't working anymore. Same deal, had to wire directly bypassing the wiper fuse. 🤨

Time to sell this pig.

No insight on how the high beam wiring goes?

P0441 is the vapor purge system. On my 06S theres a line next to the throttle body along the drivers side of the intake manifold that had to be replaced. Theres a good youtube video of how to do that part. I had to cut the old line to get it out as he does in that video, that rubber hose did not want to budge after that many years.

2187/9 is a oxygen sensing limitation, which could be caused by the purge solenoid/line problem, so I would definitely fix the P0441 first and see what comes back. However it could be fuel related too, fuel pumps or injectors, could also be a vacuum/PCV leak, or maybe even the gas cap and oil fill cap. 

It happens as it drops into closed loop once its warm and the Oxygen sensors see something amiss. They are not used in open loop immediately after startup, so that's why it runs normal when cold and not when warmed up.

Drivers' side Xenon headlight stopped working a while back, and both high beams were working along with the turn signals. 06 Cayenne S.

Couldn't find a cause for drivers' side headlight Xenon beam not working, despite testing a new light, and Dealer said it was the Module. Waited 3 weeks for a new module to come from the Fatherland and get the car back home, and see they've set the headlights to be always-on anytime the car is running, and then found out that the high beams on both sides are not working at all now.

Dealer thinks that some aging wires with crumbling insulation in the passenger headlight shorting are the cause and recommends a new passenger side light, as he doesn't think they make replacement wires to go in there. 

Now I need a crash course in how the high beam signals ground through both lights, because I don't understand how they worked when I pulled the car in 3 weeks ago and now don't.

Tested another xenon headlight that was known to work, issue remains. Put back in the old harness wiring to test that, problem remains.

Nothing to do now but let the stealership look at it.

I'm not a huge fan of the tiptronic but I've had zero issues in the 88K I've put on it since I bought it at 98K. I just change the oil once a year or 10K.

Coil packs go out about every 3-4 years in my experience. Its a hefty expense to do them all at the dealer, but not as hard as it looks. You can do them yourself.

In my case it has usually been a lack of tools and specific knowledge of the car that has cost me the most money since I bought mine at 98K mi. I can rebuild a chevrolet but not this thing.

Fuel pumps will go out, have they been replaced? I also had a DME failure that cost me big $$$.  My water pump slowly died, didn't leave me stranded. Fuel pumps did. Most of the other little things I can do myself. I wish I had bought a Durametric when I first got the car too.

Mine does it once every couple months or so. 06 S.

Unfortunately the headlight i have was a brand new factory Porsche lamp that was replaced after a minor sideswipe accident cracked the original, about 2 years ago now. Seems quite unlikely the brain inside the assembly would die after 2 years.

So tonight I took it back out, forced it into the assembly unit and I can get everything to work except the Xenon and the directional Xenon.

High beam and turn signal do work. Anyone have any ideas, what about a continuity test on the harness connector?

The old connector had been giving sporadic/sputtering light up of the Xenon last weekend when I pulled it initially, when being forced into the assembly, not constant light-up.

Yes even aftermarket Xenons are $700+ and this is not a good option.

Pelican Parts may end up sending me another, but I am going to take it apart again and force it to seat first.

Factory as far as I know, which i thought were xenon HIDs, is there a specific car RPO code to check to confirm

I don't let my 06 S go that long on oil, about 10-15K for oil and filter.

I pulled my air filters to check every time and they can go forever. I've only needed to do it once in 6-7 years.

There are 4 10mm bolts holding the tray in place, but even with their removal the whole tray doesn't come out, its blocked on the left and right by the body structure. However I was able to get it loose enough to get the harness connector replaced.

Unfortunately this didn't solve the problem and the drivers headlight will not turn on at all. Before, I could force the old connector to seat and the main light would come on intermittently, telling me it had to be a connection issue, but there is a tiny bulb to the outside and below the main bulb (3 in the diagram above) that was always on whenever the lights were turned on, so I was at least getting some connection on some of the pins.

Now, with the new harness, the tiny light (3 above) on the headlight assembly that is just below and to the outside of the main bulb does not come on at all, and there is no response from the main headlight assembly whatsoever to being pressed in to the connector and held in firmly, when the lights are turned on.  I was able to remove some of the vanity covers to get my hands around from behind and make sure it was pressed in all the way once it was in the car too, but no luck.

I did double check the part for the harness connector, its the factory as best I can tell. I'm pretty sure this idiot dealer will stick me for the charge of a brand new Porsche headlight assembly, but I don't know what else to do.

Ok thank you, the air filter box and housing is preventing it from being able to slide out (the black end of 19 slides to the inside of the car, but the obstruction prevents it from going all the way)

Does removing bolt 18 allow this to come up, and what is part 15?

I dont see why i need such a tool.

The pin connector on the headlight is not a problem.

The wiring harness connector that it connects to, which also connects to the tray is the problem. How do you remove the tray holding it in place, because it won't wiggle free.

To remove the whole tray? or?

I need to see what comes out and how

My drivers' side headlight was replaced by the dealership after an accident. It has worked fine for two years since, but recently decided to stop working. I get a "check dipped beam" message on the cluster as a result. The turn signals work, as does a single little light on the outer side of the assembly. The main and high beam do not.

After taking it out to inspect, I noticed that the electrical harness connector on the back was the problem. When I could force it into the headlights socket, the lights all powered up and worked fine, as did the high beam. So a poor connection is the culprit.

One of the tabs on the side of the white connector was broken off, so the connector wiggles in its place. I imagine that the force of the headlight being pushed back wiggled it just enough that it wouldnt' seat into the headlight assembly. But getting that white connector into the socket and then back into its place without being able to get my hand in from the rear of the light was not apparent.  I also noted that the insulation on all the wires was terribly frayed and coming off in my hands as I examined it.

But with a new connector in hand, I don't see how to wiggle the old one out. It slides in from the side on the back of the tray holding the headlight assembly, but is blocked from sliding out all the way.

How do I rectify this?

It is still leaking, therefore its the tank, its underneath where I cannot see. Temperatures are holding perfectly though.

Found it, thank you. Looks like i'll replace the cap, I did not realize the overflow was under pressure. If I see more leaks then I'll change the tank.

Took all the plastic off today, realizing that the dealership has apparently lost/broken all the screws that hold it on.

Yet I see nothing wrong other than the coolant level being below the min mark. It appears that the overflow tank regurgitated through the cap. The two upper hoses are fine and what I can see of the lower one appears fine as well. I let it warm to operating temp tonight and it held perfectly.

Oil level is perfect and no signs of any coolant in the oil either.

I found a youtube video showing how to take out the overflow reservoir on a Turbo version of the same car, looks like my leak has something to do with one of the overflow lines and its leaking under pressure, not leaking at all once the car cools down. Any gotchas to this?

06 S

Today while sitting in traffic I heard a slight pop on the passenger side and saw smoke/steam fly out from the passenger side at the windshield. Temperatures climbed slightly over the next 10 minutes but came back to normal as I made my way home. Upon immediate inspection, I see nothing obvious except some coolant on the ground coming from behind the passenger front wheel, and the fill cap there at the windshield junction was a little wet. There was also a little on a bolt directly down from the torque arm.

I do not know the routing of the lines or what to look for once I get this all off, if I can even see where the leak is coming from. Can someone explain the coolant line routing in that area and suspected fail points?

They've called today and said the Secondary pump has failed, and they would pay for part and labor to replace it. I told them that I'd pay for the part cost for the primary and then I'm done. They were cool with that.

But after this experience I won't be dealing with Century Porsche ever again.