MagnusB

I filled her up with distilled water and took off for work. Looked fine for 10 minutes then I saw the vapors from the rear.

Looks like the cap is bad. It's a .01 but sure "leaks"!

Forget that :-)

Where to buy Pentosin CHF 11 S?

Can I use any brand or?

When driving home yesterday the warning light went on, flashing.

It did that once before but I thought nothing of it at the time. It's behind the steering wheel for me so maybe I haven't noticed it and it's been there for a while ...

However I checked the coolant level today and it's below LOW, in fact it's a cm down in the lower container part.

I cannot see anything on the floor or see any leaks around the container, elsewhere in the engine room or around the radiators.

I checked the oil dipstick and the oil looks ok there so perhaps it's not seeping into the engine ...

Is this normal, i.e. I just fill up with coolant, or should I be worried now?

And Rogier van Baar sells an AUX unit which works with the PCM1.

55 EUR plus shipping.

rvbaar@hotmail.com

I've done that, cannot see anything wrong. The sway bars looks good and the bushings are 3 months old and look good.

I checked the control arm bushings, checked the shocks for leaks and the wheels for cracks.

The only thing I can think of is that the brake pads are moving. The front rotors are really worn and will be replaced as soon as I get the new ones.

I did install a new battery but I have made sure it's tight about 5 times now :-)

I would start with an under car inspection. Look for loose or badly worn swaybar bushings, muffler heat shields rubbing, and spin the wheels and listen for noises.

Since a week back I have a new sound at low speed (cannot hear it at high speed). It comes and goes.

It sounds like something metallic or hard is loose and hitting something else.

I cannot reliably get it to sound by driving over uneven terrain or by steering rapidly left-right.

I'm not even sure if it's front or back :-)

Any ideas?

How do you charge the IPOD?

The AUX unit connects the sound bit but how to supply power to it?

just thought i would show this pic to anyone interested :)

cheers

kelvin

Have you checked the cable just hasn't popped off from the lever sticking out of the tranny?

(Just had to use the word tranny in that sentence).

If so just pop it back on. Happened to me once.

I have exactly the same issue, how to remove the clear coat and repair this wheel?

I have a set of Sport Designs on my 2001 C2. These are 2-piece wheels with the outer section natural polished aluminum that is clear-coated. When I purchased the car, the rears had been repaired as the outer portion of the wheel was now painted aluminum color that matched the center section. Now I have put a scuff on one of the wheels and would like to make the repair.

I have two questions. First, does anyone have experience taking the 2-piece wheel apart for refinishing? Second, does anyone know of a paint that will closely match the natural aluminum finish?

Thanks in advance,

Randy

The plastic mesh-screen mod that I did to the air-inlets when I last cleaned my radiators has made a huge difference.

I took a peak in there and there is NOTHING accumulated so far! :clapping:

Only issue is the hot-glue gave way at certain spots, probably due to the heat and high-speed wind-force,

I ended up using fine zipties to secure the mesh-screens.

Please tell more about the mesh screen mod.

Bump.

I'm really afraid of having rubber left in the metal profile after riping out the old seal.

It doesn't look too easy to clean out the profile.

Also, the seal continues down into the side of the car, if it is glued into the profile all the way then I have to tear down the whole side.

Has anybody done this?

Same here, can't figure out how to cleanly remove the old seal.

FLAT 6...

How did it go ?

I am thinking about doing it also but I am a little scared about " Pull the side window seal down and out of the window profile" :-(( affraid i am damageing the window.

As i am reading it, the window is stilll installed in the car when you take the seal of ... not ? ?

Same here, can't figure out how to cleanly remove the old seal.

FLAT 6...

How did it go ?

I am thinking about doing it also but I am a little scared about " Pull the side window seal down and out of the window profile" :-(( affraid i am damageing the window.

As i am reading it, the window is stilll installed in the car when you take the seal of ... not ? ?

I need to get my hazard switch taken out.

Can't figure out why it won't come out, maybe more heads can solve it...

If there is still space that is?

Cheers, Magnus

hi guys, this will be my first work on car days i'd be attending so i wanted to know what i should bring....such as tools or food or drinks....thanks.

I have tried my best to remove the hazard warning bezel but it just won't budge.

What is holding it in there? Anybody have a picture of it?

Its easy to do but the micrphone slot in the console pod is not a good place for the microphone despite there being a home for it there.

Best place is by the visor or by the reversing mirror. I have mine up the windscreen post next to my visor. It's held there using velcro and works great. (see pics below)

Getting the console pod off:

Adjust the steering wheel so that it is fully extended.

Place a towel over the steering column (stop scratches)

Use a butter knife: prize off hazard warning bezel and the switch cover.

Prize off the microphone slot cover.

You will see a torque screw in each side where you prized the bits out.

Undo these and lift the console pod up. Rest it on the towel.

May need to heave-ho on lifting the pod up.

On the back there are 3 connectors (blue, black, white)

There are flip-over holders over the connectors. Lift them and the

connectors will come out.

Under the pod, use a "plastic" screw driver and prize the hazard switch

off its connector. The connector will then pull out and the console pod

can be lifted out the car. Viola!

I can do this in about 5 minutes max.

Microphone on my drivers side upper windscreen post.

(excuse the messy garage)

Inside of my car:

Tried Sunset but they haven't responded.

Any other places with good prices?

On a similar note, I tried the same thing and stripped the nut on the hard line going to the caliper.

Anybody knows the part number?

Try Sunset Porsche. They will find it for you abd give you good price.

:thumbup:

On a similar note, I tried the same thing and stripped the nut on the hard line going to the caliper.

Anybody knows the part number?

I have mine fitted at the bottom. It seems you need an adapter around it to fill up the extra space around it, that is what I have.

There are two "slots" in the lower console, and the environmental controls only fit in the lower slot.

Ok,

So today I tried to put it in the lower spot on the lower console. It still didn't seem right and wouldn't go in all the way. I can see where the slot on the bottom would go, but there are no side-slots. I can also see where the unit would screw in (the lower half has two holes).

I must be missing something.....

It could be Gremlins, did you check for those?

[OBVIOUS]

Are the wheels touching the inside of the wheel arch?

[/OBVIOUS]

I was just informed the motor and bracket would cost more than $400.

Where did you buy yours?

It sounds like the "CTCL" motor. It is a separate motor that drives the cover, and has the microswitch you mention. If the switch is not bad or bent, the motor is the likely culprit. There is a "new" style of "bracket and motor" from Porsche that fix the problem for me. Cost was about $200 for parts. A dealer can verify the problem with the tester and you can change the part, save yourself some bucks.

Izzy

The Convertible Top Compartment Lid (CTCL) doesn't close on my cab and I have a red light indicating the lid is not closed properly.

I can hear an engine whine like it's trying to close it but nothing happens.

The top itself is closed properly.

I have now tried various methods but nothing helps.

This is what I know:

- The top goes up and down flawlessly

- Both flaps work, they go up and down

- The CTCL moves up and down when using the "manual" method described in the manual

- When trying to close the CTCL via key or button the engine makes noise but nothing moves. It gives up after a couple of seconds.

- The CTCL doesn't move

- pressing the CTCL lock micro switch makes no difference (it seems)

The problem seems to be that the electrical motor doesn't move the CTCL at all.

Where is the micro switch located indicating a closed CTCL?

Did anybody have a good idea on what paint to use for the interior "silver" parts?

What does popped out mean?

If it's in the channel it's ok I guess?

That sounds great. If there is room I'd love to join in. I want to replace my break lines (steel).

This should take maximum two hours.

Have tools, parts, brake fluid, only need a container for brake fluid.

Hi

It's been decided that the next Work on Cars day will begin at 9 AM, Saturday, January 27. It will be held at my home/garage in Half Moon Bay.

Directions:

From 880/101/280, take Hwy 92 West to Half Moon Bay

Hwy 92 ends at Hwy 1

Left (South) on Hwy 1 to first stop light

Right on Kelly (Tres Amigos Tacqueria on the corner)

Left on Potter at third stop sign

Right on Miramontes at first stop sign

I'm on the right toward the end of the block

205 Miramontes

From the other thread on this:

Tips from past Work On Cars Days...

1. Make sure you have all of your parts - and that they are the right parts.

2. If you are changing fluids (oil, brake fluid, etc.) - plan to bring something to carry them away in.

3. Plan to clean up any spills or mess you make.

4. Help us plan ahead - tell us what you want to do.

Depending on the number of people/cars we try not to take on anything that will take more than a couple of hours each.

BTW, it appears I will still have my scissor lift.

I'd be interested in changing brake lines to metal ones and of course change the brake fluid.