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DDiggler69

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Posts posted by DDiggler69

  1. My alarm siren is dead, got a new one 95561823701. I see that it's under the fuse box on the driver's side engine compartment. I got the top of the fuse box off and it looks like the box just "pulls up" but tons of wiring is entering it holding it down. I'm guessing that some of it needs to be disconnected to reach the siren. I don't want to just start "yanking wires"...has anyone done this that can provide instructions or knows of a link to the procedure from a service manual? I would sure appreciate some advice here so I don't screw something up.

  2. I think it's this attached part, but I can't tell if it's serviceable or if the valve covers need to come off. Based on the fact that they want to replace the valve cover gaskets, I'm guessing it's not a quick job. I'm just trying to figure out how easy this job is to do. Based on the fact it has developed a rough idle, I'm guessing their diagnosis is correct. Was hoping somone could explain the replacement?

  3. I have a 2005 Cayenne S and the CEL came on. It came on when I was accelerating from a stop, and in genreal, the car has developed a rough idle. After bringing it into the dealer they said it was a camshaft sensor error code. After further diogonosis they said the problem was with the camshaft actuator. I didn't talk to the service tech, so the service contact could only explain so much. They want to replace the hydrolic valve 948-105-303-08 and the oil screen 997-105-701-00 (in addition to the valve cover gaskets and an oil change). My question is what is this valve, is it the camshaft actuator solenoid? Has anyone else seen something similar? They want something like $900 to do the repair.

  4. The sensors are not part of the pads, they are seperate. They "clip into the pads". Basically the plastic is very brittle and once you snap them into the pad, I've never gotten one out without breaking it. Once you break it, and you don't have a spare, you have to put in a broken one into the new pads to complete the brake job. this makes me concerned that it will fall out and I'll never know. Buy the sensors, if you get one out witout breaking it, go return it. I don't think you will get it out without breaking it though.

  5. The rotors only allow 2mm between new and bad. You have to buy a rotor measurement tool to see if they are still within spec. What I found was that one set of pads shaves off about 1.5mm of the rotor so you don't have enough rotor left for another set of pads. You have to replace the pads, rotors, and sensors when you do a brake job (you can't remove the sensor clips from the pads without them breaking). Dealers also replace the pad springs and bolt but I don't find this necessary. I posted links to where you can buy all this stuff online and save yourself several hundred dollars (search me). If you are replacing the rears, you will also need to buy a special tool to replace the rotors.

  6. I had the exact same problem on my CS. I'm pretty confident that it's coming from my rears only. I replaced my pads (Pagid), rotors (zimmerman), bought the new pad retaining HW kits, and did the anti-squeel stuff on the back of the pads. After several hundred dollars none of it works. I'm thinking that ceramic pads are the only answer...that's my next plan.

  7. OK, so I did this. I found a special 12pt double square 16bit that was made just for the "VW Oil Pan". It cost me $9 at my local tool store (you can probably Google it). I also bought a 1/2" long handle rachet that allowed you to get to the bit at any angle. Both of these were invaluable...

    The rotors came of with a 50 torax bit. There was another screw on the rotor which I have no idea what it does, but I jammed a torax into it and moved it to the new rotor. I think it's an access hole cover so you don't have to remove the rotors.

    All in all the rotor change took 1hr with the right tools. My only regret is that the brake cleaner also removed my Porsche decals on the caliper :o(

  8. I'm trying to replace my rear rotors. In doing so, I was happy to see that Porsche used a difficult 12point tripple squre bolt. I also noticed that the caliper looked rigidly attached to the brake lines. Finally, I noticed that there was what appeared to be another bolt on the caliper for the parking brake(??). As a result, I was not able to finish my rotor change until I get the 12point tripple squre socket. Has anyone done the rear caliper change and can post instructions (or point me to them)?

  9. squeeking may or may not mean that your brakes need replacement. You may have lost a shim...take it into any tire center and ask for a free brake inspection (don't do the service there, just the free check). The brake warning light means that your pads have worn down to a level where the rotor ate through the brake sensor, firing off the light so you replace the pads. It has nothing to do with squeeks.

    As far as pads/rotors...I just did a post on this a few weeks back. Do a search on this (21st Nov called "Brakes & Rotors"). In my case, the rotors were worn down past 50% on my first set of pads so another set of pads would have put them below spec had I not replaced them. The only way you know is to go buy a rotor micrometer and check. Porsche is kind enough to give you 2mm of tolerance before the rotors are shot.

  10. If your Cayenne is under warrenty, the dealer will replace the bulb free of charge. Just tell them that you herd a buld replacement fixes the problem. For me, adjusting the wire harness did nothing to help. They can replace the bulb without an appointment. Just go into service and ask them to do it on the spot (like I did). It's now been fine for over one year (previously did it 2x a week for six months for me).

  11. So my thinking was that I wanted to stay with OEM, since I assume Porshe has poured tons of manpower into choosing the best for their lineup (it's the same on all cars so I'm told...including carrera). They use Pagid pads and Zimmerman rotors. You may find others who have track experience that will give you track recomendations. I didn't go this route. I did just replace my rotors this weekend after doing a full brake job on the front. I have a Cayenne S and got the following from autohausaz for $413:

    1 7L0698151J Brake Pad Set; Front; OE Compound

    2 7L0907637 Brake Pad Wear Sensor; Front Left/Right

    1 7L6615301K Brake Disc/Brake Rotor, Directional; Front Left; Vented 350x34mm

    1 7L6615302K Brake Disc/Brake Rotor, Directional; Front Right; Vented 350x34mm

    Much like you, I had to first check if the rotors were 17" (330) or 18" (350) and this was identified on the top of the caliper. You also need to buy the caliper removal bit (front was a torx-50). In hindsight I should have also replaced the caliper bolts because I had to tear up the bolt to get it off (it's 200lb tourqe). I didn't want to replace the rotors but I bought a caliper tool and I had 28% left after 33K miles. This wouldn't have lasted another pad set.

    V8 Brake disc thickness, new

    front - 34 mm

    rear - 28 mm

    Brake discs minimum thickness

    front - 32 mm

    rear - 26 mm

    For the Cayenne V6 Brake disc thickness, new

    front - 32 mm

    rear - 28 mm

    Brake discs minimum thickness

    front - 30 mm

    rear - 26 mm

    post-11403-1227302082_thumb.jpg

    post-11403-1227302094_thumb.jpg

  12. You must determine the size of the rotors on your vehicle prior to ordering. The easiest way to figure out your brake size is to look at the caliper. It should have "17ZR" or "18ZR" cast into the body. 17ZR=330mm (black caliper), 18ZR=350mm (silver and red caliper). In general the V6 has the 330mm rotors and the V8 has the 350mm rotors.

    Second, OEM rotors are made by Zimmerman. Don't buy them from Porsche, you can find them cheaper on the web. Here is a link: http://www.pap-parts.com/products.asp?dept=4129

    Make sure you get the rotor removal bit first. The front uses a Torx-50. I'm still looking for what the rear uses (it's different...thanks Porsche). If anyone knows, please let me know.

  13. I had this same problem on my 05'S. It went to the dealer 3 times and they "solidified the connection". It wasn't until the 4th time that I went back and demanded that they start replacing parts. They replaced the Xeon bulb in about 10min and it hasn't happend since. I recomend that you go to the dealer and let them know this. My dealer stated that Porsche and VW are "aware of this problem" on all of their SUVs.

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