Canada-Eh

Can any of the following info on the back of my fob (see Picts) be used to program it to my car so the button unlocks the door. The pill works as I swapped it from another working key.  I don't have a tag for this remote. Thanks!

Any update on this 78F350?

PING.   Picts or another post someone can point to?

On 6/12/2016 at 10:06 AM, battery.burner said:

If anyone would like details of the updated installation and long term average fuel economy let me know.

I guess I have been living under a rock because I've never heard of "water doping" an engine before.  It sounds like something that will get my car thrown out of the Olympics.  And, if it really improves gas millage then why don't modern car manufacturers do it?  Oil industry conspiracy?   Sounds a lot like the people that promote converting your car to running on gas vapors instead of liquid gas - it will by the way but just doesn't get you any better gas mileage.    

Right on!  Time to watch the 928 fall in the water again in Risky Business!  The most important part of car stories is embellishment. So make sure you have a good one to tell about how the car ended up flooded in the first place.  Maybe Sharknado landed right on it!  

Just my 2 cents on the immo and DME/ECU:  You likely don't need to replace them as most dry out okay.  If they give you problems remove and submerge in Isopropyl alcohol. as that might clear up the problems you were having.  Also note the DME is pretty high on the rear firewall so it might not have been submerged.  

As for water in engine:  sounds like you've done all the right things.  I had a car with a blown head-gasket and to be honest it ran fine other than loosing coolant and the white smoke.  In other words, having water mixed with oil in the engine won't really hurt it in the short run or stop it from starting/running.  

You might want to pour some fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank as that will do a good job of taking care of any water still in the fuel system.   

I might also be inclined to pull the fuse or whatever else I needed to disable the airbags.  If there is a short on start-up you don't want them blowing.  Very low risk I would say but hey, pretty easy precaution to take.  

Lastly, if the car was claimed (insurance) as flood damaged you likely won't be able to get a rebuilt title for it.  At least here in Canada once a car is flood damaged it can never go back on the road.  I don't agree with that rule, but it is what it is.  

I'm sure she will fire right up with no problems.  Let us know.  

On 5/21/2008 at 11:59 AM, ssflai said:

How about Goo Gone ? do you think i can use it to remove the adhesive without damaging the paint ?

Goo Gone / Goo Be Gone works great.  I used it to de-badge my BMW and no problems.  It is basically a highly concentrated citric (i.e. Orange) acid.   What you DON'T want to use is one of those kitchen sponge pads that has a scratchy green or other abrasive side on it.  It will scratch glass, paint, trim, you name it (been there done that - was painful).  Just use a normal soft sponge or towel in combination with the Goo Gone.  

On 2017-10-23 at 12:27 PM, jhshelton said:

Thanks guys problem solved with your advise.

Same issue. What did you do to resolve it?  

On 2008-07-10 at 7:07 AM, Stefan said:

Yes, I converted back to stock and had no further MAF problems for many tens of thousands of miles.

But apparently I didn't learn my lesson because when I did a 3.4L engine swap, I put the EVO intake back in.

Lo and behold, I got the same P0102 error after a few hundred miles.

I purchased yet another MAF and put the stock 986 intake back in. Now more than 15k miles later, absolutely no MAF issues.

I am convinced that the problem was related to the EVO intake. Note that the MAF on the early Boxsters is much less robust than the newer (2000+ MY) ones which might explain why not everyone with EVO intakes has this problem.

Why not revive a 10 year old thread. I'm curious for those that had a p0102 did it cause any performance issues?  Did you all simply switch back because of the CEL or smog testing reasons?  Thanks!  

Had a similar problem only to find out after I got into the front with the cable and the rear via the vent that if you sit in the car with all the doors closed and press the dash lock button to lock the doors and then unlock it worked to unlock the trunks as opposed to locking and un-locking using the key in the driver's door. Of course, try turning the key twice to lock the driver's door and see if the car honks once. 

The lower the psi in the front compared to the rears the more understeer you will have. Porsche purposely tries to build in understeer these days as it is generally preferred over oversteer. I've had 2 Boxsters - my current one is 33 lbs in the fronts and 36 rears with 17" rims. I've found this setup more responsive. 

Thanks JFP. 

Grumble, grumble, stupid design. No wonder NA (first gen) Miata prices are starting to climb higher than the 986. 

Can it be done or does one absolutely need to remove the hard-top and then put the soft-top in service mode?  I've seen picts of the carpet/panel behind the seats off so as to access the drive belt, so maybe this a point of entry with the hard-top still on?  

1999 986, 5 speed.  

1 hour ago, Ahsai said:

There are professional tools (e.g., transponder emulator) that can hack the system but I'm pretty sure if involves customized s/w and h/w, and not just supplying power to a few pins. This paper was published 5 yrs ago https://www.cs.bham.ac.uk/~garciaf/publications/Dismantling_Megamos_Crypto.pdf It talks about how the security flaws and how one can hack the system (academic presentation, not a DIY blueprint).

Looks like you are right: 

Relay Theft in Seconds with No Key: 

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/11/27/mercedes-car-stolen-without-using-key-seconds-relay-theft/amp/

New Porsche Press Release on Theft (Nov 2017) and Solution: 

Innovative anti-theft protection now also available for Porsche Classic vehicles: https://www.porsche.com/usa/aboutporsche/pressreleases/pag/?pool=international-de&id=463315

Lol, not sure why the text is so large. 

3 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Duncan is correct. As I understand it, the DME and immobilizer box have to both "handshake" (acknowledge each other) and then communicate certain data in order for the car to start; it takes a lot more than just some electrical current to make it happen, otherwise there would be a lot of missing Porsches............

It is interesting to note that my current 986 was previously stolen and recovered.  Porsche's are stolen quite frequently, that's the problem.  Not sure how they do it but their ingenuity and experience is impressive; can't deny that.  

If you get this resolved I'd like to know how as I have a 1983 928S (5 speed, excellent shape) and much like you when the gas tank is above 3/4 I also get a strong smell of fuel.  There are no leaks and the only thing that seems to matter is the level of fuel.   Below 3/4 no smell - above smell.  Needless to say, I never fill it all the way up and problem solved ;)  

Car still won't start?  Here is my untested theory on how to bypass the immobilizer "kill" function.  

UNTESTED THEORY:  I have NOT tested this and your car may catch fire, blow up, fry itself, and/or generally be unhappy.  I suspect however, it will work and am happy for your feedback, so we can finally have a workable solution for a car that is 20+ years old and often sub-$5K.  I’m not worried this solution would lead to stolen cars because it will take a long time to access all these parts and for whatever reason, thieves who know of a quicker way (sub 5 minutes) have not posted how they are doing it – that would be nice to know by the way!   

Theory:  The lack of a valid RFID signal from key results in an 86S fault (i.e., no power is supplied to 86S, fault code 25), which is why a suggested fix is to check fuse E1 (fifth row down from the top - first fuse on the left (7.5A)).   Bridging 30 and 86S at the ignition switch stage provides power to 86S, which is pin 16 [Terminal 15] on the immobilizer.  You also need power on pin 36 at the immobilizer, which I believe happens if you have a valid RFID.  Thus, you will need to bridge 16 and 36 on the immobilizer.  I’m not sure what the ECU does with the signal from the immobilizer but you can force your ECU to power up by bridging it at the relay and best to bridge the start lock relay as well.   Your car “should” start now. 

STEP 1: IGNITION SWITCH

Bridge wires/pins 30 and 86 S  [when I say bridge, I mean keep the wires connected to the switch but splice in some wire that will connect 30 and 86S so that 30 will power 86S) 

STEP 2: IMMOBIZLIER

Bridge wires/pins 16 - Terminal 86 S [Orange Wire] and 36 - Terminal 15 [Black/Brown Wire]

STEP 3: DME/ECU RELAY IN REAR TRUNK

Pull out relay and bridge wires/pins 30, 87 and 87B

Do NOT leave this in place, as the fuel pump will continue to run and the DME will continue to draw power. 

STEP 4:  START LOCK RELAY IN REAR TRUNK

Pull out relay and bridge wires/pins 30 and 87

STEP 5:  OPTIONAL:  CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH (not needed but easier to test if you don’t need to push in clutch all the time; and switch often fails and car won’t start]

Pull both connectors out of switch and connect the wires to each other so your car will now start without the need of pushing in the clutch. 

986 IMMOBOLIZER PINS MAP

 (see attached image below)  

Plug I [Blue connector]

Terminal: - Antenna

3 - Immobilizer data

4 - Immobilizer control

5 - Driver's door secured

6 - Convertible top closed

7 - Driver's door closed

8 - Passenger compartment monitoring on

9 - Convertible top compartment lid

10 - Central locking button open

11 - External input 1

13 - Luggage compartment lid, rear

14 - External input 2

15 - Deactivation

16 - Terminal 86 S (buzzer contact) [Orange Wire]

17 - Luggage compartment light, rear

18 - Power window control

22 - Antenna (shield)

24 - Passenger compartment monitoring, signal input

25 - Driver's door closed

26 - Oddments tray

27 - Radio contact

28 - Passenger's door secured

29 - Central locking button closed

30 - Driver's door locked

31 - Luggage compartment lid, front

32 - Passenger's door locked

33 - Input, crash sensor

34 - Release, luggage compartment lid, rear

35 - Priming

36 - Terminal 15 [Black/Brown Wire]

37 - Luggage compartment light, front

39 - Alarm readiness light

40 - Comfort, opening

41 - Indicator, door locked

42 - Comfort, closing

Plug II

Terminal:

1 - Terminal 31

2 - Positive, alarm horn

3 - Servo motor, central locking system

4 - Load disconnection

5 - Actuator, tank cap

6 - Direction indicator light, left

7 - Terminal 30 input

8 - Terminal 30 output

9 - Servo motor, central locking system 10 - Actuator, tank cap

11- Interior light

12 - Direction indicator light, right

Having just swapped the immobilizer, ECU/DME and key fob on my 1999 986 here is some useful info:

- Ignition lock mechanism can be out of steeling column and it will still start, assuming you have the ignition switch and immobilizer/transformer wires still connected

- Cluster gauge can be out and it will still start

- Cluster does NOT need to match ECU/DME.  In fact, car mileage appears to be stored IN the cluster so swapped ECU does not affect shown miles/kms.  

- Seats can be out of car and it will still start but you will get an airbag light that you will have to clear later (it does not self-clear)

- Make sure to transfer the key blade from your old key fob to the new one.  I tried holding up the new key fob directly in front of the ignition ring and use my old key but the immobilizer gets confused / read the wrong pill and it wouldn't start.  

- After you reconnect your battery there are some re-training procedures (window stops, etc.) that the service manual outlines.  

Best

On 1/8/2018 at 9:34 AM, Loren said:

 

When asking for part numbers it is best if you give us the exact model and year of your car.

Oops, sorry about that:  1999 986    I found this PET page: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/986_USA_KATALOG.pdf  but sadly on page 209 it shows the wheel-housing liner (996 504 203 06) but not this rubber gasket.  Maybe it comes with the liner, I'll see what the Googles has to say.  Best  
 

On 1/8/2018 at 8:56 AM, Loren said:

 

Try 9876

 

No gofundme page as costs of running this site are ongoing - you are welcome to donate (especially if you can do it annually).

Worked right away!  Donation happily made.   It is worth noting I just changed immobilizer and ECU/DME (with matching key fob) myself (i.e. not at a shop) so the radio either updates the ECU itself automatically or the code to make the radio work is stored in the radio and not the ECU.  Hope that info helps someone someday.   Best

Super old thread but does anyone know the part number of the 1" or so rubber piece that covers up a gap about half-way up the liner on the rears?  The gap runs parallel to the ground and is right above the fish gill looking slits in the liner.  

My car is missing this rubber trim on the driver's side and without this piece I'm afraid all sorts of spray/dirt/etc. is going to end up in inside the rear bumper skin and possibly in through the trunk vent, which is now missing the foam cover (emergency locked trunk entry episode - ugh).  

Thanks in advance.

9 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Try 9876

 

No gofundme page as costs of running this site are ongoing - you are welcome to donate (especially if you can do it annually).

I will try that as soon as I get home Loren and donate I will!  All the best. 

Wow Loren, 10+ years of doing this. If we Donate to Renntech do you get a portion or do you have your own gofundme page? Your community support is much appreciated!  

Can you help with:

CDR-220

Type 4462

Ser W5011497

All the best.