Augustus Barone

Gearbox oil leak found . The reverse light switch was seeping, possibly due to impact while clutch replacement was done by PO. The leak got progressively more profuse and I finally was able to confirm source. 

Pelican Parts is owned by ECS Tuning. They list a Shift Cable Lock Bridge. This is what I used when I installed my 997 short shifter and adjusted the cables on my 996

Shifter Lock Bridge

WWW.ECSTUNING.COM

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Holds the shift lever in place during shifter cable replacement

M030 US suspension springs /kits   may still be  available. ( same height as standard, higher spring rate)  .   I have a set on my car  and am very pleased  with it .  Front  Strut mount bearings  are ball bearings rolling in plastic  races . Add age and mileage..you know the rest. Rubber  bump stops. that  are smashed  or torn  are   a  pretty good clue as cars with worn struts will bottom out   more    . Struts mounts do weaken so I would just replace them  for peace of mind, but I know folks who did not without adverse  outcomes  As Loren  advises, inspection is the key.  Lastly , stabilizer bars get unbolted at the same time., no reason to re-use them . They can set off a lovely knock knock symphony   even  when minimally loose.  As for groans and squeaks, control arm bushings,, ball joints should be carefully inspected . I am pointing that out last because they can be handled without removing struts/ springs.

(If possible) , I would fabricate 3 right angle brackets  to bolt into the bearing flange holes  protruding into the hole in order to support the IMS,  slide hammer the bearing  via the center bolt, ,and then, refer to the last part of DBJoe996 suggestion. Good luck

Still noticing a  gear oil drop under the  transmission mount . At this point I am suspecting a crack or porous spot inside the casting surrounding  the   mount. Will be removing  the bushing to have a look see.  No other areas on gearbox show any oil trails or possible leak source . Will post findings 

 DBJoe, Are you referring to the alarm horn ?. Actual horns are rearward of right front radiator scoop. Only way for those to get wet is submerge the front end of the car. The horn grounds plug under airbag on steering wheel. If the horns or relay juice is going to ground then fuse blows due to short circuit.  Bumper removal and right side radiator scoop removal will get you to the horns. Disconnect each one and using a test light on power pin from harness to ground , have someone push horn pad. If the light works and no fuse pops, , horn(s ) are  faulty. If fuse pops anyway, then problem is in relay and or wiring.

My 1999 C2  has a completely dry exterior on the gearbox case, no leaks from shift linkage, or anywhere else for that matter. Gearbox level is normal.  Shifting is fine.Yet the  plastic  undertray has showed accumulated leakage evidence, and on a very hot day, a  oil spot on the driveway  showed up. The smell was clearly from  gear oil and, judging where the car was parked ,directly above the aforementioned tray. Cleaned everything up and wondering where this is going to proceed to, a mystery indeed...

Are you feeling the car bottom out the front strut on the rubber bumper stops? If so you are using up the available suspension travel. If  those bumpers are in good condition and the speed is very low  it is  par for the course due to available suspension travel. Thumping noise feeding into the chassis OTOH, not so good and it would be worth a look at the suspension  on a lift to see what's happening

I would put the car on a alignment rack  with the left side as close to the left edge as possible . Raise the rack to allow  getting under it and gently push it back with the steering wheel turned left to see if anything hits. Not a lot of movement would be available in full lock steering  ( car rolling off rack) but it would allow  a better  underneath  view with car in real time ride height . 

  After reading B3freak's post I verified that indeed it is a HIFI version.  Adding the bluetooth bit still baffles me as it has no CDC option so it will involve additional bits and labor. That brings in getting a new HU which may make  things easier  all the way round. Crutchfield offers a  interconnect harness adapter so no butchering factory harness required . As per the speakers, replacement are possibly the best idea due to the age factor of the paper cones. Looks like I've got a bit of work to do. Thanks all

Greetings. My  early (3/98) C2 still wears the original CDR21O. As much as I like the bare bones look as it is combined with the center console delete on this car, it could use some improvement in sound quality as well as adding a bluetoooth  to allow more music + phone option .  Any preferred head units recommended? I would like to stay with a single DIN type  to  retain the previously mentioned console delete. This may have been covered before so any links will also be appreciated .Cheers 

Thanks folks. As a MBZ driver I have been through that rigmarole before. Off to the dealer  I go.

Greetings. New forum member here. My 3/98 build date  996 C2 needs a spare key. I would  like to find a  Automotive Locksmith who can  duplicate  and  reprogram the new key.So far I have struck out in Marin County and San Francisco. Would love to find a Auto Locksmith able to that. Any leads ? TIA