BliarOut

Thanks very much for the advice.

Thanks for that, I've cured the Variocam solenoid leak, but there's another one which is that bit harder to reach.

Do you know if there is there a route to the sender (what's it sending?) with the engine in situ in a tippy?

In case anyone is trawling threads to resolve this it's a very simple job. Clean the area thoroughly first to prevent the ingress of dirt, it'll always be filthy if this leaks even a small amount as it picks up lots of road grit. You reach up and undoing the two M6 (10mm) bolts and removing the locating flange. It may come away by hand or it may need a gentle (and I do mean gentle) tap with a toffee hammer. The solenoid itself doesn't move as long as you're sensible. Clean and apply a small amount of blue Hylomar or similar to the mating faces and replace.

Total time = 10 minutes, cost saving = $900 :-)

Is it possible to get access to the near side cylinder head oil pump with the engine in situ? (C4 Tip cab) I have a slight oil mist from either the cylinder head oil pump or the sender unit that lives close to it. I can't tell exactly where the leak is from underneath but it's definitely one or other of these.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob.

Would it be possible to use a hydraulic puller in reverse?

Theoretically there's no reason it wouldn't work, it's just a case of how you would gain purchase from the rear of the leg. It may be possible to make up a clamping bracket if you have access to a machine shop.

Does anyone know the number of the relevant TSB?

Can that be reached with the wheels on the car? Most people store the locking wheel key in the toolkit.... Which is locked in the unlockable bonnet :cursing:

I jumpered a battery charger into the fuse panel at seat heat fuse source end, remember to turn the key on though.

CAUTION...!

If the disconnected battery positive terminal happens to be in body contact..........!!!

Don't use a battery, use a trickle charger for jumpering. That way if the positive side is perhaps grounded you won't MELT something.

Can you remember which fuse position that is? Was it C3 as I have heard talk of using that position before. What do you use to jumper into the fuse board?

As there's no proper jumper on earlier cars I will probably get a cigarette lighter cable and keep it in the car, just in case.

Does anyone know if the boot jump starting points should work to power the car to open the bonnet without a battery fitted? And is the boot release a straight bowden cable or another electrical release?

Ta,

Rob

Ah, both were MY99 cars.

We tried the points in the engine bay but for whatever reason it didn't work. It could have been done wrong, we were trying to suss it over the phone.

At least I know the jack point wasn't actually there :)

I was trying to help a friend get in a 996 with a flat battery yesterday. Yes, he's stupid and shut the bonnet with the battery disconnected!

I was under the impression there is a jack point somewhere in the drivers footwell (fuseboard?) that you can attach aux 12V to allow you to open the bonnet. So, where is it? We had a look at two seperate 996's and couldn't find where to attach an external 12V supply.

So does it exist and if so, where? Pictures would help :)

I know about operating the pull rod under the cover by sill and the emergency loop hiding inside the OS headlamp, but a powered solution is preferred if it does exist.

Oh, and a bonnet is what us English guys have in place of a trunk ;)

It's the drivers side (RHD) front window.

Just to add, the squeaking is sort of cyclic in sound. I had heard cables could be the cause of this but I'm not sure if they can be lubed or are a likely cause of the noise?

Just want to get a feel for what I should be looking for as it looks like I'll have to have the door card off to track it anyway.

I thought Porsche have all the kit to replace the rear window in situ.

Hi,

the window in my 99 996 cab squeaks in operation when it gets hot. Pushing on the window in any direction whilst raising or lowering it doesn't alter the sound, nor does lubricating the rubbers that are accessible with the door card still in place. It operates perfectly but the squeak is starting to annoy me. Are there any common causes of this? My Boxster used to do it as well, just not so loud.

Much appreciated.... As I understand it it's harder to get to in a Tip, but as I haven't even managed to see the source I can't be sure that's the problem.

Just don't want the garage charging me to take the engine out if it can be done in situ.

Thanks,

Rob

Thanks very much for that, worked a treat. Best ten minutes I've spent on the car!

If anyone else is doing this mod the antenna is in the left hand pillar on RHD cars as well. I did wonder if they might have switched the loom before I started but they haven't.

Thanks very much for that....

Just before I reach for the scissors is there a reason why it's the "wrong" length from the factory?

Hi, I'm new around these parts and I'm looking for some advice. My 996 C4 tip cab has an oil leak and it's not the RMS. It seems to be coming from above the engine on the left hand side when viewed from the rear. My local independant has had a brief look and thinks it's the oil/air seperator.

They say the parts aren't that expensive but as it's a tip it's an engine out job to replace it. Is that really the case as the labour cost is pretty high if they drop the motor.

Does anyone know if it can actually be done without removing the engine in a tip?

I'm gonna need to get it resolved soon as the leak is getting worse :(

Oh, and if anyone knows of any pics of the oil/air seperator in situ they would be greatly appreciated so I can get a handle of what's going on.

TIA,

Rob

Does anyone know if 130mm applies to a UK spec car, ie do they operate on the same frquency? I could really do with some additional range from my keyfob.

TIA,

Rob