Seadweller

Greetings!  The black trim piece under the driver side mirror on my '98 Boxster continues to become detached from the mirror housing.  I suspect perhaps one or more of the retaining tabs may be broken.  I can't tell if it can be removed and replaced without completely removing the side mirror.  I'm afraid to apply force to it, unless I know for certain it will release and allow the new part to be reinstalled without completely removing the mirror.

Anyone know if this part just pops off?

SIDE MIRROR TRIM

WWW.ECSTUNING.COM

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I wanted to update this in case anyone is interested.  After correcting some testing mistakes I was making, I found 12.4 volts at the B1 fuse, and 12.4 volts at all pins powered with 12V+ at the gauge cluster.  I also tested continuity of the grounds from the connector, and all tested good.

I have the cluster at a local shop, as voltages from the battery to the cluster are steady, with the ignition switch in all positions.

57 minutes ago, Loren said:

I really think you need to put a scan tool like Durametric on it. They are easy to use - in this case you just tell it to  scan all control modules.

The see what faults come back.

I'm heading in that direction.  I completely disconnected the gauge cluster, and at the B1 fuse I'm getting the following:

1.  11.5V with key out

2.  11.5V at the accessory position on the key switch

3.  7.5V with the ignition on

I'm beginning to rule out the cluster itself, given that it's now completely out of the system.  One of the strangest things I've ever come across.

Is there anything in the circuit that might cause a voltage drop at that fuse?  A relay?  Some sort of regulator?  If it was a bad ground, I would think it would impact at least all of row B on the fuse box.

Is it possible that a poor connection at the back of the fuse panel is the culprit?

Nothing changes.  Same voltage at B1, and all functions of the headlight switch work normally.

6 minutes ago, Loren said:

No change after that?

Nothing...Same exact symptoms...I don't know if this will help or not, but this is the voltage I'm getting at the B1 fuse location:

Ignition off - 11.2V

Ignition on - 9.7V

Engine on - 10.7V

Something is affecting voltage at that fuse location.  Other fuse locations have  12.3V.  Is there a relay anywhere that could be causing this?  I'm completely stumped.

Just now, Loren said:

I would suspect a badly worn ignition switch.

I just replaced the ignition switch with a new one on Monday...That was my first thought...  ?

Spot checked a couple more fuses in row B, and all are 12.3V with the ignition on, except B1, which is 9.7V.  Something is causing a voltage drop on that specific fuse location.

OK, I did a bit more experimentation at the fuse box.

With the ignition on, I get 9.7V at the B1 fuse.  With the engine running, the voltage at B1 is 10.8V.  If I remove the B10 fuse, the voltage at B1 goes up to 11.8V.  Voltage at the B10 fuse is 13.7V.

3 hours ago, wizard said:

Do your side mirrors and Tiptronic work normally?

Did you by any chance refuel the car just prior to this incident?

Yes, side mirrors work fine.  I was able to drive the car home without issue with the gauge cluster going on and off.  I didn't try manual/tip operation, as I was more focused on getting home than troubleshooting.

I did measure voltage at the B1 fuse, and it was a steady 9.2V.  I assume that should be 12V?  If so, what would cause low voltage at the fuse box?

Understood.  I'll check wiring, and also I'm going to see if I have steady voltage at the B1 fuse.  Someone also mentioned checking voltage at the connector, and provided the pin locations for ground and 12V.  I guess if I can validate steady 12V+ at the connector, that would point to the cluster itself.  I don't have a Durametric, and wouldn't know how to use one unfortunately.

Thanks again for the help!

2 minutes ago, Loren said:

Are you sure you got all the cluster connector back op and locked in place?

If so, then start looking for a poor ground (to chassis) under the dash. You can test with an ohm meter.

 

Well, I'd say I'm 99.99% sure!  ?  I took them off twice, and reinstalled them to be sure.  One thing I need to recheck, is when I lifted the cluster to see the face of it, I believe the on/off flashing changed its cycle.  I'm going to check that again this evening.

Is it possible that the cluster itself has some sort of fault, or is that something that's uncommon?

Thanks a bunch, I GREATLY appreciate the assistance!!

2 hours ago, Loren said:

Has the instrument cluster been removed recently (or ever)?

I removed it last week after it started flashing, as it was recommended that I remove and reinstall the connectors on the back to make sure there were no connector issues.  Prior to that, I don't believe it's ever been removed.  I still have it removed, but connected, sitting on a towel on the dash.

I've owned the car for 3 years now, and other than a new battery around 1 year ago, and routine maintenance, everything on the car has worked as designed.

Ok, here's an update:

1.  Battery voltage with the car off is 12.6V

2.  Battery voltage with the car running is 14.1V

3.  If I remove only the B1 fuse with the car running, the gauge cluster goes dark and quiet

4.  If I remove only the B10 fuse, the gauges stop working/twitching, all the indicator lights go out, and only the 3 lower screens remain lit with mileage, digital speedo, and clock, and the door chime works as well.  No flashing indicator lights.

The flashing lights and twitching gauges seem to be related to the B1 fuse circuit.  Thoughts?

Thanks!

Thanks for the kind welcome!  The battery is under a year old, but I know that doesn't dismiss it as a possible source of the issue.  I have it on a battery tender now and will check it in the morning.  The car started without issue, but I would assume a voltage lower than 12V might cause electrical circuits to malfunction.

I'll report back!

Update:  I don't know if this helps, but the fuel gauge responds to the on/off routine, however there's nothing from the speedo and tach.

Car is a 1998 Boxster Tiptronic with less than 40K miles.  Always garaged and covered, and never in the rain.  I took her out for some exercise weekend before last, and out of the blue, all the lights on the gauge cluster started turning off and on, almost like it was on a blinker relay.  Also, the gauges all stopped working, but twitch every now and then.  See video below please:

What I've tried so far is the following:

1. Disconnected the battery, reconnected it, and followed the re-connection procedure.
2. Pulled fuses B1, B10 and E1. All good.
3. Pulled the instrument cluster and removed/reinstalled the plugs to make sure they were properly seated.
4. Checked the electrical operation of other components. Everything else works fine.  The top, hazards, blinkers, lights, windows, etc.
5. Replaced the ignition switch, hoping for the best, but that didn't fix the issue.  It's the later model ignition assembly, which was replaced in 2011.
 

At this point, I'm out of options and don't know where to look next.  Is there a relay in the circuit that could be the issue?  Everything else seems sound electrically.  I have no issues starting the car, or operating any of the electrical items.  The blinking gauge cluster seems isolated from the rest of the car.

Any direction would be immensely appreciated!!!