Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

BoostDR

Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BoostDR

  1. To add the airbox won’t come out with above instructions. I removed the 3 10mm bolts and split the airbox in half with a chisel at the join. Came out in 5 minutes and can be glued back together and used again if required. 
     

    also the lower bolt is accessible from the engine back. You can’t access it from the snorkel side 

    FD26B4BA-FF0E-467A-AA0B-B2BCE2C769BC.jpeg

  2. I’ve put it all back together with the new pads. Car feels slightly different and the deviation is slightly better but still between -7, -8. 

     

    Timing does advance but very slowly. Looks like the variocam assembly is faulty.  I tested the variocam on the bench with compressed are and 12v activating the solenoid. It worked as expected but obviously in the car. Doesn’t have enough pressure. I suspect my inner variocam green seals are done. If I recall I did see some green rubber in the filter on a previous oil change. 

     

    Anyone know now how the cheapest is for a variocam assembly ? 

     

    Matt 

  3. Thanks Ahsai. I’m going to pull the green plugs and check the physical timing today. 

     

    Im also not trusting of the Autel. Certainly when I activate bank 2 at idle the engine stumbles however the data shows

    no movement in cam angle. This doesn’t make any sense to me as when I do the same on bank 1 it moves 25 degrees per the data...and makes the same change in engine note 

     

     

    Matt

  4. Hi from Down Under (Aussie). In an attempt to ensure I can efficiently chase Kangaroos down the street and also avoid "drop bears" I conducted a health check on my 2000 2.7ltr 986. The results weren't so great....

     

    Diag Tool: Autel AP200 

     

    Readings:

                     Camshaft Deviation Bank 1:             -9.45 (best I saw was -8.3)

                     Camshaft Deviation Bank 2:             No Reading available on my tool

                     Camshaft Actual Position Bank 1:   Happily goes from 0 - 25 - 0 as the Variocam activates and deactivates  

                     Camshaft Actual Position Bank 2:   Starts around 0. Doesn't change on activation. Slowly goes up to 20 at max rpm(at Max rpm it should be 0ish)...not Solenoid activation affected 

                     Fault Codes:                                         No Fault Codes

     

    Tests:

                     Bank 1 Solenoid Resistance:            13.7 Ohm

                     Bank 2 Solenoid Resistance:            15.2 Ohm

                     Bank 1 & 2 Sol Current Draw:            0.770A 

                     Bank 1&2 Solenoid 12v at idle:         Both Change engine note substantially 

                     DME output to Bank 1 & 2:               Both 13.06v on activation 

                     12v direct to Bank 2:                          Nil effect to Actual Cam timing however clicking can be heard and engine note does change at idle. At rpm I can feel a difference

                      Disconnected Bank 1 & 2:               Couldn't notice too much difference to power or delivery 

     

    I've changed one of the variocam pads on the right hand side of the engine(looking from the back of the car) My diag tool tells me that is bank 1....which has huge deviation for which it shouldn't. I do have a reasonable chain rattle at start up... always thought this was normal. 

     

    So......Do I actually have an issue? is my Autel scan tool leading me up the garden path ?? All physical tests point to all fine. Scan tool tells me other wise.

     

    A little stumped, Help Please 

     

    spacer.png

     

     

     

     

                    

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.