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RJFabCab

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Everything posted by RJFabCab

  1. RJFabCab
    Thanks for the reply, Loren. I've done full brake/clutch bleeding before and didn't have problems like this. Perhaps not having the Motive at 20 psi was the issue. I only used 15 psi this time. I'll give it another go today with 20 psi. Thanks
  2. RJFabCab
    Hi to Loren, Tool Pants, and others... :) I bled the brakes and clutch and thought of a couple of questions (Motive positive pressure technique). 1. When opening the caliper nipple valve to bleed, if you over loosen the nut, does this allow air entrainment? It seemed that over loosening the nut caused a somewhat constant stream of bubbles to enter the drain tube, but no brake fluid was leaking out around the nipple. Just bubbles in the tubing. How is this possible with the Motive positive pressure (15 psi) technique? 2. After bleeding the clutch, the clutch pedal was very slow to return to the normal position. I had to pull it up 5-6 times before the pedal would stay off the floor and pump it many more times before it would return to the normal position. Immediate feel was a bit "light". Sure enough, on the test drive, the actuation was not as smooth... it's a bit abrupt, like it needs to be rebled. So, does it matter if you pull up the clutch pedal and pump it to return it to its normal position while the Motive bleeder is hooked up and pressurized? I plan on rebleeding only the clutch... Thanks for the help. Cheers
  3. RJFabCab
    DaveMo, My car is also an '02 cab. Did you also have the reinforcement parts installed with your X74? Were they motor mounts or support brackets?
  4. RJFabCab
    The "coupe specificity" of the X74 is my hang-up. DaveMo, no problems with chassis flex, creaking windows, pillars, or glass? Being a factory suspension, the X74 is attractive, but I wonder about its performance during high speed sweepers and esses. Thanks for the info, guys...
  5. RJFabCab
    DaveMo, Thanks for the info. Can you comment more on the handling in your cab? Are you running 18's? Did you have the reinforcement parts installed? I did contact Gert and he stated that there is only one X74 kit. It's not model specific. Dealer information shows that the X74 is listed only for coupes. Gert has some feedback on his site, but all the X74's are on coupes. Cheers
  6. RJFabCab
    I'm looking into improving handling on my cab and have been investigating the X74 suspension package. Loren and others, your wisdom is welcome! :rolleyes: 1. One X74 kit for all models? My euro M030 was cabriolet specific. Coupes and cabs had different kits... I believe the kits had different springs based on the model differences in weight distribution. 2. Is the X74 for the coupe only? Did the factory design this kit only for the coupe? I can't find the X74 option in the MY04 order guides, perhaps because it was offered in '03? Is this a Tequipment option? Anyone have links to factory information on this suspension? 3. Is the X74 cabriolet appropriate? I'm not talking about aesthetics... just from a pure handling standpoint. 4. X74 camber limits? I track regularly and burn up the outside edges of my R tires. I am maxed out on camber at -0.9 front and -1.6 rear (degrees). Should any more negative camber adjustment be expected from the lower ride height and X74 setup from the stock mounting points? Any feedback from cab owners with the X74 would be greatly appreciated, especially if you track your car. Thanks to all :cheers:
  7. RJFabCab
    The base of the 996 airbox will need some way to drain fluids that enter the intake chute (washing the car, driving in heavy rain, etc...). Sound may be enhanced with increased perforations, but I wonder about the impact of hot engine air entering the airbox and affecting engine performance.
  8. RJFabCab
    Thanks for the replies. -0.6 on the US M030? RoW sport recommends -0.5 max, but I'm really curious how much negative camber the actual setup will allow. Loren, the GT-3 adjustable control arms are an option (cost? :o ), but I want to see how much tweaking I can get by within the suspension limits with an alignment.
  9. RJFabCab
    Well, I just got back from the track and my Cups are toast! The right front and right rear tires are corded on the outside edges. After some consultation with fellow track head professionals, it was decided that a more aggressive alignment would help solve the problem and add some longevity to my track tires. I got about 12 heat cycles out of the MPSCs... plus driving to and from the track. How much negative camber will the RoW 030 allow?
  10. RJFabCab
    As I understand it, the MY2003 cabs are able to operate the soft top while driving at speeds under 30 mph. Is there a way to reprogram my car for the top to operate while moving? Can the dealer accomplish this with a simple "flash" reprogram? Anyone have links to the companies or mods that accomplish this?
  11. RJFabCab
    The ducts are up under the front bumper just in front of the front wheels.
  12. RJFabCab
    I'm looking at improving braking performance (track) through better ventilation at the front brakes. I already have a Motive bleeder and Pagid oranges. 1. Will these ducts fit my '02 narrow body 996 cab? 2. Is this a simple bolt on installation (no drilling)? 3. Can anyone comment on the perfomance of these ducts? Gert sells them: Thanks!
  13. RJFabCab
    The "equalizing tank" (PN# 996-106-157-03) was replaced under warranty. :drive:
  14. RJFabCab
    I noticed a nice puddle of coolant under the left side of the car after pulling into my garage. There was a fair amount of coolant on the floor... I have lost about 1 cm in the height of my reservoir. Coolant leak pics Anyhow, I jacked her up and took some pics. Initially, it looked as if the coolant was dribbling down the left side of the motor onto the driver's side header (first pic). Getting up under the car, it looked as if the dribble was originating higher up (see arrow in second pic). After leveling the car, the dribbles moved. <_< Now, they were dripping from the left exhaust tip. As far as I could see, the leak was probably coming from the coolant reservoir tank. No coolant around the cap. Coolant valve was closed. No other signs of coolant in the engine compartment that were easily visible. The third and fourth pics show the hose just up under the coolant reservoir. It appeared as if coolant was dripping down on top of the hose, probably from the tank but I could not clearly identify the leak source. So, I think I have a cracked coolant tank. What do you guys think? I plan on calling the dealer in the AM and will probably end up driving her in, unless the level falls precipitously during the night. Thanks for your help! :)
  15. RJFabCab
    All you guys with the Fabspeed cold air kit... what air filter are you running? Stock paper or a cotton race filter like BMC or K&N? Regarding the plastic screen, it probably won't do much for protecting the MAF sensor from residual filter oil; however, it WILL keep that large piece of debris that somehow makes it past your filter from getting to your motor. :eek: Also, the Fabspeed block off cap screws into the cover. It should not dislodge. I have seen pics of the little orange cap, but which side does it sit on? It probably blocks off the stock airbox muffler from the "clean" side of the filter. If that thing comes loose, you know where it's going next... Power/throttle response gains are questionable, but the sound is greatly enhanced according to many people.
  16. RJFabCab
    Poursha, I know about the orange caps, but I would be more comfortable with a "locking" type plug that won't dislodge. Plus, I'd also like to get rid of the stock airbox silencer/muffler to increase volume in the intake chamber. One of my real questions is: Will the stock ECU be able to adjust favorably to higher intake volumes, or should I expect flat spots and CELs? Right now I'm sticking to the stock air filter...
  17. RJFabCab
    Howdy to Loren and all other fellow CAR-NUTS! :D I'm thinking of modding the airbox (e.g. Fabspeed cold air kit) to increase the amount and quality of engine music. Throttle response and claimed hp gains are not my objective. I'm simply looking for mo betta sound. I'd like to run the stock air filter with the mods that replace the MAF plastic grate and eliminate the stock airbox muffler. Does this combo make sense with stock ECU programming with respect to air/fuel mixture, potential flat spots in the power band, etc.??? BMC/K&N filters are not for me. Too much controversy over engine contamination, oily MAF failures, and cracking rubber surrounds. Thanks for the input.
  18. RJFabCab
    Say, Jeff... How often do you guys have to change the potato? hehehe... you guys are too much! :cheers:
  19. RJFabCab
    Rob, nice one. I can see where you set your beer down on the alignment sheet. :)
  20. RJFabCab
    Update on my fix: The dealer ended up replacing my right front strut bearing and then performed a front realignment. Yee Haw. The car's as good as new! :cheers:
  21. RJFabCab
    Thanks for the info, Uwe.
  22. RJFabCab
    Was the noise present before the PSE install? It sounds like you may have some loose debris inside your sport muffler.
  23. RJFabCab
    clord... That sounds exactly like what's going on with my car. The noise appeared to be coming from the top part of the spring, right where it rotates with the steering input. Hmmm... On your 99C4, they had to replace the parts? I wonder if that's what I'm in for versus a lube job up in there. We'll see. Thanks. ;)
  24. RJFabCab
    Loren and cmalana... thanks for the replies. Porsche dealer did the install. The RoW 030 parts came from Andial in California. Loren, the issues you mention sound like they are correctable with the current strut, correct? I plan to take her to the dealer tomorrow for a full evaluation.
  25. RJFabCab
    I track the car regularly and have recently noticed a "creaking" sound coming from the right front strut. It is only noticeable when turning the steering wheel. When driving straight ahead over road bumps... no noise. Sit at the stoplight and turn the wheel = noise. It almost sounds like a creaking door. The three adjustment bolts on the strut are tight and show no signs of movement. The creak seems to come from the top portion of the strut just near the top of the spring. No signs of obvious damage or trauma. Is this a lubrication issue? The car handles fine. Help with diagnosis is appreciated... thanks! :rolleyes: Specs: '02 996 C2 Cab, RoW 030
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