racerx

Anyone know if there is a place around where I can take my car for a ride around a track to see what it will really do

What would I need

- any special licences

- insurance?

- equipment

Never done one before (apart from the Jonathon Palmer motorsport in the UK twice which is awesome if anyone gets a chance) - so a bit of a novice on whats required

Cheers

Anthony

Check out PCA.org, the US Porsche Club. Attend a DE (Driver Education) event once you get a membership. Good fun!

OK, tried a bunch of different ways but ended up using the allen wrench-vise grips method for removing my spark plug tubes. Problem is that the tubes were brittle (probably explains why they were so hard to remove) and small pieces broke off from two of the tubes. I don't know where they went to other than in the spark plug tube hole, which appears to be within the cylinder head cover. What are the ramifications of having small pieces of plastic inside the cylinder head cover? how important is it that they are removed? I am obviously not an engine guy.

I haven't seen one break into small bits yet - but I won't say it can't happen.

I would be more concerned with hitting myself in the face when I pull one straight out :lol: (please don't ask how I know) ;)

ok, so what happens if a piece does break off? Like a piece about 20mm by 5mm. what is that big hard to reach cavern that a small piece may dissappear in to?

Depending on how important stopping is for you. I think using brakes is for sissies who can't just power through turns. :drive:

Seriously, I have never done that work, but I would suggest you change the carrier, specially if it is on one of the front calipers. Subjecting it to heating and cooling cycles while driving may loosen the bolt, since it is not fully seated and secured.

Braking is good to have, especially if there is a cement wall staring you in the face. Definitely leaning towards replacing the wheel carrier but wanted to put it out to the group as thought there might be some other type of fix that folks are aware of. Replacing the wheel carrier ain't cheap or easy it seems.

One of the caliper bolts on my 99 996 c2 became stuck in the wheel carrier and has stripped the threads in the wheel carrier. The caliper bolt will only take 30 or so pounds of torque vs. the recommended 63. Is that sufficient or should the carrier be replaced? Has anyone tackled replacing the front left or any wheel carrier? how does it rate as a DIY?

Nice pics and thanks for sharing your project. Thinking of taking on similar on my 99 996 as just dropped the mufflers for some bypass pipes and thinking I can get in there pretty easily. Can you give me an idea on how the tubes fit/come out? do the plugs have to come out? is there any kind of sealant that goes with the new tubes to hold them in? what did it set you back for parts? Thanks in advance.

Had the exact same feeling on my first 996, coming from a BMW. On my second 996 now which has the same brake feel. It takes a little getting used to on the street. My opinion is that the brakes though are designed for hard driving and on track that extra pressure that you need to get the brakes to grab translates into an ability to modulate the brakes with an accuracy greater than you can with brakes set up more for street use (like the BMW). I think you will find you will really like the brake feel with time, particularly when heel and toeing on the track!

The original concept of a dry sump is that oil is scavenged out of the traditional sump and pumped into a separate tank where it could be stored, and also be less subject to oil surge when cornering at high speeds. This insures oil supply to the engine when all the pumps are working correctly.

If one is an optimist:

Porsche integrated the oil tank as part of the traditional sump concept for the 996 engines. The other engines you mentioned have a specific remote oil tank. The 996 block/case was designed for space and weight savings. The inclusion of the oil tank in the engine casings removed the need for external lines and enables a more compact design. There are baffle plates in this sump that prevent the oil from spilling into the areas where moving parts can be affected by this surge. So it is part of the engine as we would normally regard a sump, but with functional modifications that afford it a dry sump classification. People will say that some oil starvation problems are evident when these engines are tracked, and Porsche offers a modified baffle system to cater for this.

If one is a pessimist:

A dry sump means a dry sump - since the traditional sump is located under the crankshaft - so anything other than that means pseudo dry sump/wet sump with baffles.

The V bottom design of the Turbo/GT2/GT3 engine cases does not allow enough room/capacity for oil to be stored there - hence the need for a oil tank mounted between the engine and the rear bulkhead - plus these engines were derived from racing designs, and they are also much more expensive to manufacture.

Geza,

You mention Porsche has a modified baffle system to cater to potential oil starvation problems. Is there a specific part you are referring to? I have seen Brey-Krause (sp?) offers a revised 'oil pan' but was unfamiliar with the Porsche part.

TIA

Does installing the cat bypass pipes make the car no longer street legal? what does Fabspeed claim for HP improvements? what do you guess total HP/torque improvement with your changes? Thinking about following a similar route. Good looking car btw.

Look at the wheels and tires for a Cup car - those are about as wide as you can go. Some fender rolling and suspension adjustments would be needed to run Cup car widths. Also, don't forget that the more corning force you can achieve - the more oil will slosh into the cylinder heads away from the pickup. Look at the X51 kit parts and or Brey Krause's solutions so that you don't oil starve your engine.

Good advice as always Loren.

The Porsche Manufacturer's Cup sizing looks to be:

Front axle

• Three-piece BBS light aluminium rims (9J x 18), rim offset 46 with central locking wheel nuts

• Michelin rain tyres (24/64-18)

Rear axle

• Three-piece BBS light aluminium rims (11J x 18), rim offset 59 with central locking

wheel nuts

• Michelin rain tyres (27/68-18)

But maybe some room for more with a few tweaks:

Here's the description from a cup car for sale: 1999 Porsche GT3 Cup (with factory airjacks and ABS) 2002 Kelly-Moss racing updated to RS spec (460HP motor, Wing Body, 3 Way Moton, 12" rear rim x 10.5" from rim)

Looking to see if anyone has experimented with anything bigger than 235/40/18 front and 295/30/18 rear tire sizes. Michelin makes a Pilot Sport Cup in a 265 size, which would likely require a 9" front wheel. Any idea if 9" width, 18" wheels would fit a 99 C2? with some custom offset perhaps? Would a 315 on an 11" width rear fit?

Ran at the track with some Z06s a few weeks ago which were running something like 345 width rubber on all four corners. Needless to say that they were a good bit faster through the corners, not to say it was all tires, but...

Looking to put some new rubber on my 86 951 for DE events, prefer something that will get me to and from the track as opposed to a track only set up. Have seen 951s with 18" wheels and have read that the biggest wheels that will fit the 86 951 are 18x8 up front and 18x10 in back, with appropriate spacers depending on offset of the wheels. Looking for some recommendations to the best setup. Thanks.