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moosey

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Posts posted by moosey

  1. Does anyone have this problem, I have a 996 Targa with the X74 suspension with about 20K miles on it. Since day one when going ud and down steep drive ways i get a loud cracking noise from both the front and rear. Took it back to the dealer and they drove it and noticed the noise but could not find any problems. Could this noise be because it is on a targa? I also never noticed this but the rear tires are substancially bent in wards where you can notice it really well. I know that when it was lowered that the camber settings we different but is this the case? Car drives excellent and straight just concered that this cracking noise is bad and the rear wheels are curved in ward towards the motor.

  2. I need help trying to find out why my guage cluster lights do not turn on for 10min and sometimes even longer. I also notice that my license plate lights on turn on when the gauge clusters lights are on when i turn on my headlights. The digital read outs are all ok except for the lights that light up the rev,speedo and other clusters. I have checked all fuses and they are all ok. SO when I turn on my headlights none of the lights come on the guage cluster. The only ones that turn on are the digital speedo,mph mileage,ect.. and when this occura i notice the front amber side marker and rear license plate light do not turn on until those cluster light turn on. Again the cluster light take at least 10min or more to illuminate and sometimes dont come on at all. 2002 C2 tip

  3. Only Tiptronic cars use a water valve to create a coolant circulation in the Tiptr. water/oil heat exchanger when needed. A leaking valve happens occasionally, but is not common. The clamps can be removed with appropriate pliers according to the actual possition of the clamps. Metal water pipes have always rubber hoses on both ends, if you loosen the metal pipes mounting bolts, you can move the pipes more than enough. Don't forget to squeeze the rubber hoses where it is easiest and as close as possible to the valve to reduce the amount of coolant loss.

    RMF, i was able to easily remove the valve and hose, for some strange reason when i installed the new hoses and cooling valve it does not seem to fit properly. There is a gap on both ends where the rubber hose and metal water line meet. If i force one side to fit properly the other side slips out of place on the metal water line. I dont think i bent any of the metal water lines, also do know if maybe your suppose to push down on the metal line to get a better fit. I also tried putting in the original hoses and valve and i still have the same problem with the hose and water pipe not flushed with one another. So me be a metal water line was slighty bent. Any help would be great or if anyone else on the board have a solution to this problem.

  4. I assume you meant the Tiptronic cooling water valve, if you squeeze the hoses closest to the valve with a clamp or a long nose vise grip, there will be only a small amount of coolant runs out. Replace the valve and top up the coolant level. No need to drain the complete cooling system.

    Thanks RFM, just wanted to confirm if this is the tiptronic cooling valve you are talking about. My dealer said it is a water heater valve. Also wanted to confirm if it is the best way to just use long needle nose pliers to try and remove the four metal clamps. I will be hard because the coolanr lines are metal and do not flex. Is this a common proplem? the car on has around 10,000 miles on it.

    post-12269-091150400 1280643917_thumb.jp

  5. Has anyone changed a water heater valve on a 2006 Boxster? it looks like mine is leaking coolant and needs to be replaced. I looks like there are 2 metal clamps holding it in, but I think large amounts of coolant will spill out so i assume the coolant must be flushed. Where is the bleeder valve located and coolant drain plug located?

  6. You need to take it off and see where the is. Perhaps it came loose but my guess is either the hose is split or the fitting is.

    LOREN, if i take it off will large amounts of coolant sill out? the black line in the picture is metal and the clear rubber piece has a black plastic backing on it. What exactly is this piece? the car only has 10,000 miles on it. Thanks

  7. 2006 987 boxster S, 10,000 miles have a coolant leak on the right side right behind wheel where a metal hose and a rubber plug is. It looks like the clear rubber plug is not in all the way. here is what it looks like. can anyone confirm if the gap looks to big here. its really hard to get to but i am trying to loosen the clamps to see if the two can come close.

    post-12269-058544000 1280438264_thumb.jp

  8. Had check engine light with codes p0301 -p0302. Checked coils and they were cracked. Replaced then with new ones reset code and the same codes came back. Could a bad oil seperator cause these coes to come on. The plugs were covered in oil. and now i have new codes p1128 and p1130.

  9. Replaced the complete steering lock on a 2000 996 C4. Just this past week i noticed that it does not make the clicking noise when pulling out the key. Turning the key to start the car is fine and functioning properly, its just 9 out of 10 times when pulling the key out there is no clicking noise and the light does not cime on the roof and tends to sometimes leave the gauge lights on and radio. DO i have to replace the complete assembly again? or is there something loose in the steering lock that is causing the ignition not to make the clicking noise? Thanks

  10. I have a 03 targa with X74 suspension. I wanted to know if it is normal to go through rear tires faster since the car is lowered? I have only 11,000 miles on the x74 suspension and the rear tires that are Continental sport contact 2's and both rear tires are down to the tread bars. Also the inner treads are worn down to wear the tread bars are all gone. Is this normal? I drive 50/50 city/highway and always make sure tire pressure are right, could this be a balancing problem? Thanks all!

  11. Check that you have the assembly in the lower guides.

    Hi vcar. all i know is that when i put the headlight in it fits right into where it turns on perfectly, and ther e are only two guides that fit that i can see and there is still a gap. i also notice looking through the gap that i can see the metal bar that locks barely comes up from the bottom of the lock positon, but still not all the way up. I then turn the allen key to lock again to see if the pin will rise all the way to lock position and i just notice that it does not have the torque to. Is it possible that the pin is so loose that it no longer has the torque to crank it all the way up into lock position> i though i heard that when this happens the bottom headlight mount has to be replaced?

  12. We replaced all of them(motor mount/console , trans mounts) on the families 01 base around 50k. They were shot, and the cars see no agressive type(autoX, track, etc.) driving either. The difference was like night and day afterwards. Before, the drivetrain felt like it was shifting around. The car is more solid and connected now, eliminated alot of vibrations, noises, shifter slop. I was somewhat hesitant at first on the trans mounts, but after doing some measurements, found the originals had collapsed but not started to leak yet. The motor mount was cracked and starting to separate. They are not too bad of a DIY task.

    regards

    Hello there, I have a 99 boxster and get a loud clunk noise only when shifting from 1st to 2nd, do you think this could be the transmission mount?

  13. That sounds pretty high. In comparison to an engine mount replacement, which seems to be a more painful repair by the comments on this board, a local P dealer in Toronto quoted me just under $500 CAD part and labour for the engine mount. I can't imagine the transmission mounts would require $1700 in labour alone.

    Would I just be able to replace the transmission mount and not the bracket? I saw on pelican parts that they sell the transmission mount without the bracket> If this can be done then I think I will be able to replace the trans mount without any problem. Can anyone confirm the torque specs on the two hex bolts and the one large torx bolt. Thanks

  14. Look at the swaybar mounts to the chassis - you will likely need to remove the plastic belly cover.

    Loren could they be the drop links? I have read some post from others and said that cured their clunk noise going over bumps and up driveways. I checked everything you told me and they all seem fastened to me and nothing loose> any suggestions on how to check the droplinks and could this be the cause of my noise you think. what else can i check bedsides the drop link. Again my X74 was just installed this past March and have only put about 10K on it.

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