moosey

22 hours ago, Loren said:

Thanks Loren but the chart isn’t that for the 955 Gen Cayenne?  Just confused because I had inquired two dealers and they said 104 ftlbs on both FR. 

On 8/6/2019 at 5:46 PM, Loren said:

 

Are the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts 104 ft lbs? I asked dealer and they said that’s what they torque the f/r? Wanted to confirm because I’ve read different specs.

Anyone know where I can get precut clear protection film for headlight. Have new Litronics and would like to put a clear protection film best one possible that won’t scratch or leave any yellowing when needed to be removed.

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

 

First of all, you should have bought the light from board sponsor Sunset Porsche instead of Suncoast.

 

Most likely, the internal assembly has become dislodged from its pivot points during shipping.  While some have been able to get it back into position, as you just bought it, I would return it.

JFP is there anyway to open them up to fix them. Gonna take a long while to get a replacement:   This is what the dealer emailed me which I’ve never heard of before : 

From what I understand, Porsche dealers have to hook up there computer to your cars PCM to program and test the headlamps for movement depending on the year. The only thing I can suggest is bringing it to your local Porsche dealer. They have the necessary tools to fix those types of problems.

Hi guys , just bought new Litronic headlights from suncoast. I just installed and tried adjusting the lights and found that the driver side headlight cannot be adjusted. When trying to adjust vertically and laterally when the lights are on the indicator bar does not move when trying to get to zero on the measurement bar. Basically. Nothing happens when turning the adjustments sockets. Does this mean there is a defect in the headlight or do I need to try and remove the headlight for adjustments? Gonna suck if I have to return the lights and have to wait for the replacement as they came from Germany .

Hello I was in the process of removing old latch to replace with one and notice the bottom cable wire is missing or detached from assembly . Then there is this silver cable wire that still attached which I do not know how it get removed. The wire that I didn’t see attached to the old assembly would this be the emergency cable wire? If so and if I can’t find the cable end that connects inside bottom of the new assembly would everything else work mechanically locking and opening ect...

Are there any diy or tsb for drove belt change on 2012 spyder? 

On 1/5/2018 at 7:21 AM, JFP in PA said:

Did you try a coolant system pressure test before tearing everything apart?  I'm a little concerned about finding coolant in the exhaust system.......

 

The O-rings on the oil cooler are all that separate the oil from the coolant, assuming that the cooler itself has not failed internally, which is another possibility.  There are four openings in the bottom of the cooler, two oil, two coolant, the simplest way to test the cooler is to plug three openings and pull a vacuum on the fourth. 

JFP, just got the cayman back after complete engine overhaul. The cracked cylinder was resleeved and I was told all main components were replaced . Just after two days of getting the car back and 250miles the car suddenly started losing power on the highway and a flashing check engine light came on. Had the car towed back to independent service where it’s stil there. I’m told it’s misfire on cylinder 5. Cylinder 6 was re sleeved during the overhaul . After reading some posts could a crankshaft position sensor cause a misfire along with flashing cel ? 

On 1/1/2018 at 8:53 AM, Silver_TT said:

 

These folks above are all giving good advice.  I know it's painful and you don't want to sink more money into it but, yes, not knowing much about the specific situation I do still think it's at least possible it could be repaired rather than being scrapped.  Like others say, I think it's important to see what happened and then it will be easier for you to decide what your options are.  I think that no one will be able to definitely tell you what your options are (and quote you the associated costs and such) until they actually physically get into it.  But Loren is saying it's around $30k for a new engine installed from Porsche (if you can get one) so at that cost it certainly makes sense to dig a little further even if it feels like you're in a hole.

Hi all thanks for the feedback. I finally got a call from the shop and the engine failure was caused by a cracked cylinder . The shop said they can repair and rebuild motor.

On 1/5/2018 at 6:47 AM, moosey said:

Hi JFP, so a simple O ring on oil cooler can drain all coolant into oil tank? So my situation is this: AOS full of oil and that was replaced codes gone. started car was fine after about 3 miles white smoke from exhaust engine losing a bit of power drove it straight home which I was only driving in neighborhood. intermix coming out of exhaust in large amounts. pure coolant leaking from O2 sensors and cats and sport exhaust baffle all on driver side. only cel code is for misfire on cylinder 6. took out all spark plugs and they all look good except a small micro pin drop of coolant on spark plug cylinder 6. No signs of leaks anywhere else except intermix from oil tank , coolant from driver side areas mention above. Coolant tank has no oil in it would that be somewhat of a good sign? I can take out oil cooler if you think that will help?

Oh I forgot to mention I poured a whole gallon of coolant and it all came out of oil tank too? Thanks

On 12/30/2017 at 8:14 AM, JFP in PA said:

 

It is always worthwhile to do a preliminary tear down to find out what failed and why as quite often intermix issues can be something as simple as a failed o-ring on the oil cooler.  And even if it is something more serious, I would want to know what went south.

Hi JFP, so a simple O ring on oil cooler can drain all coolant into oil tank? So my situation is this: AOS full of oil and that was replaced codes gone. started car was fine after about 3 miles white smoke from exhaust engine losing a bit of power drove it straight home which I was only driving in neighborhood. intermix coming out of exhaust in large amounts. pure coolant leaking from O2 sensors and cats and sport exhaust baffle all on driver side. only cel code is for misfire on cylinder 6. took out all spark plugs and they all look good except a small micro pin drop of coolant on spark plug cylinder 6. No signs of leaks anywhere else except intermix from oil tank , coolant from driver side areas mention above. Coolant tank has no oil in it would that be somewhat of a good sign? I can take out oil cooler if you think that will help?

On 12/21/2017 at 10:24 AM, Silver_TT said:

+1 to what Loren says about avoiding LA Dismantlers in this case......but they are great and will save you a fortune on certain things.  For example, I bought a clean, good as new OEM headliner from them (something crazy like $1,000+ from Porsche) for less than $100 shipped.  Not sure they are a bad company so much as it's just a bit of a shady business by nature and extremely risky to acquire something like a motor from a salvage/dismantler for obvious reasons. 

 

Ahsai has a good suggestion that you should first make sure you can't fix what you have, because if you can it will be a fraction of the cost.  I wish you the best of luck.

Hi Silver tt, I’m no engine expert but if my coolant drains straight to the oil tank what does that seem most likely it could be? Do you think the motor can still be rebuilt ? The person i was referred to said it could most likely be rebuilt but then after reading what you had to say with cylinder 6 same with my case having misfire I️ want to make sure if all possible before paying all the labor to dismantle to find out motor is not able to be rebuilt . ThAnks !!

1 hour ago, wizard said:

Have you tried pulling in different directions? I suspect that it's not so much the force applied that counts, but the direction of pull.

 

Failing that, perhaps the following helps
http://www.mademan.com/mm/how-open-porsche-cayman-hood-without-battery.html

Hi Wizard! Thanks for the reply. Just got it open to use small vice grip and pull super super hard and it pop right open. I mean with all my force. So for anyone trying this for me it took two hands and vice grips. Didn’t have to take front shell off either . Was able to remove palstic liner by jacking the car up and removing a total of 7 torx screws.

On 5/16/2008 at 9:20 AM, Tool Pants said:

It does. My hand is on it. Headlight removed for the picture. But it is on the left side. On this car it did not have a loop on the end of the cable. Take out the left headlight so you will know where it is.

I have been told by 2 mechanics that the jumper in the fuse box will work even with the battery removed.

Got a dead disconnected battery and dead motor. Found front driver release cable but pulling on it pretty hard and it’s not releasing the front hood. How much pressure to you have to pull?? I’m pulling pretty hard with pliers and no success. 

Thanks all for the replies. A Porsche tech recommend me a place called Autosrasse Corp in Costa Mesa ca for rebuild. Having car towed there ina couple of weeks. 

On 12/13/2017 at 6:36 AM, Loren said:

 

Was this just one dealer that said that?

And, were they just talking about Cayman engines?

Hi Loren yes , they said there’s none in US or Germany. I would have to either do a full rebuild buying individual parts or just find a decent motor to drop one in from a salvage yard or eBay . Thanks and i will not use LA dis. 

On 12/10/2017 at 1:23 PM, Loren said:

A Porsche exchange (rebuilt) engine is about $25,500 - then add in labor for removal and install.

I would stay (very far) away from LA Dismantlers - too many horror stories.

 

Lots of amateur Cayman racers so you might check around for 3rd party shops that rebuild Cayman engines.

PCA might be a good start for local recommendations.

Porsche said they no longer provide crate motors. I’m clueless as who I can trust for re build .

Hi guys i just had an engine failure . It started out with white smoke and coolant coming out of the exhaust . Checked coolant tank and it was empty. Before this i had codes p2189-p2187 which were cleared after replacing AOS. After 3 miles new code for misfire cylinder 6. I did quick search and one dealer site had replacement motor for 2008 Cayman S at $43k is this correct ? Is an engine rebuild an option with this issue of coolant in oil tank ? Anyone have any luck with LA porsche dismantled motors? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated 

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Being emissions related codes, they could to preserve the three way cats.

Hi JFP thanks . I got the three codes mentioned above. The car has 198k . I drained the oil and there was no oil mix. Could AOS be partial problem? I’m going to check banks two cylinder 4 coil plug . Also read on some post the p0446 has something to do with bad Camshaft sensor bank 2? So if it’s emission related engine should be okay?

Would P0304,P0446,P1316 cause check engine light to flash???

Thank you Loren as always!

Hello bought used CD-R 220 and need code

model 4462

serial Y5042872

2008 cayman S with cloth headliner sagging throughout . Any diy on how to remove and install new one from factory?

16 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Although they look almost identical, the top and bottom idler pulleys have two different part numbers so be careful not to mix them up if you are replacing them both at the same time. Reinstallation is a snap, simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm). The bolts that are used on the pulleys originally had self-locking compound on them when they were new, so if you are reusing them again, then simply add a little bit of blue Loctite 242 to the threads prior to installing them.

 

The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).

 

The little ball of the pulley locking pin unscrews.

Thanks JFP, now my last problem is finding the right breaker bar 24mm socket combo that will fit in the tight space to loosen crank pulley. Your correct the bolt need is exactly 5/16 or .3125 of an inch. I went to hardware store and made one and it fits perfectly! I hope I don't have to end of buying Porsche's tool to remove bolt.

On 3/14/2017 at 9:53 AM, JFP in PA said:

OK, you need to rotate the engine by hand using a wrench, only turning the pulley clockwise, never counter clockwise, until the pulley hole lines up with the pin boss.

 

Once the pulley bolt is out, you can pull the pin and simply wiggle the pulley to pull it out.  Then reinstall the bolt, turn the engine if it has moved to orient the pin opening, and reinstert the pin, then complete the torque plus rotation process.  Then it is Miller time..........

 

And just a by-the-by in passing, you will not find much of Porsche's original literature posted online, they have gotten draconian about protecting their copyrights and go after any one that does post their stuff.

JFP, donhabe the torque specs for the following bolts:

Upper Pulley

Tensioner Pulley

Lower Pulley

i can't find the smooth bolt or rod to insert in engine case when removing crank pulley. I'm trying to find the locking pin the pic you posted. I'm not sure there is room to insert that pin with the round ball at the end but do you think if I end up finding one I could just cut off the round ball off at the end and that should do it. Or maybe depending on length of that locking pin maybe it will work as is?