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moosey

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Posts posted by moosey

  1. OK, some more data:  Porsche released a TSB (TSB #ATI-1301) entitled " INFORMATION PROVIDED ON SUCCESSFULLY CALIBRATING ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKES. MODELS 2010-2013 PANAMERA, CAYENNE".  I do not have a copy, but you may find one on the web.

    JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design.

  2.  

     

     

     

    Anyone know where you can buy the special tool to suspend the caliper? Also when replacing the rear pads and rotors does the car have to be in neutral??? Are there any detailed steps on how the pads and new hardware kit are installed?

    any updates on this?

     

     

     

    Tool is actually a VW item and looks like this:

     

    vw_matra_t10439.jpg  About $54 from Samstag Tools

     

    Thanks JFP, just purchased. Do you know if they make or sell a floor jack pad for 2011-14 cayenne ? I don't think I can use my jack at the spare tire jack point.Any other points under car where I can jack using floor jack while doing brake at a time? Also any special tools to loosen the pads before removing the caliper? obviously there is no more room to use piston spreader with new design of caliper.

     

     

    I don't really know about the jack pad, but "search" is always your best friend.

     

    The pads do not need an tool to loosen them, they usually just pop out.

     

    Thanks again JFP, I wanted to know since the new caliper design does not offer room to use a piston spreader from top would I just have to try and get a flat head screw driver in there to try and loosen the pad away from the caliper in order to pull off caliper? This was my main concern. Ive read others have said that the two tripe square bolts facing outside needed to be loosen in order for pads to get loose, but also read that this is incorrect> Can you further elaborate if you have any more info on this subject? Thanks!!

  3.  

     

    Anyone know where you can buy the special tool to suspend the caliper? Also when replacing the rear pads and rotors does the car have to be in neutral??? Are there any detailed steps on how the pads and new hardware kit are installed?

    any updates on this?

     

     

     

    Tool is actually a VW item and looks like this:

     

    vw_matra_t10439.jpg  About $54 from Samstag Tools

     

    Thanks JFP, just purchased. Do you know if they make or sell a floor jack pad for 2011-14 cayenne ? I don't think I can use my jack at the spare tire jack point.Any other points under car where I can jack using floor jack while doing brake at a time? Also any special tools to loosen the pads before removing the caliper? obviously there is no more room to use piston spreader with new design of caliper.

  4. A fault will continue to trip even after a reset if the problem (in this case missing airbag) is not fixed.

    Sorry, you need to get the car re-coded.

    Anyway to remove the seat if it is completely stuck where all 4 torx bolts are covered? The Drive cable is twisted and is still inside of rail. The other end of the cable has fallen out. I noticed there are several bolts under the seat, but do not know which could be undone to possibly make the seat move freely back and forth. IS there a way ? I haven't tried yet but if I remove the long drive cable that is still in the side of the seat rail would that loosen the seat enough to get to the 4 torx bolts? Thanks All

  5. Just bought 08' Cayman S tiptronic, when moving automatic gear lever from park to drive there is a bit of resistance and you kind of have to force it a little bit. Been reading about shift cable may be dirty , loose or broken or binding. Checked shift cable under car on drier side and it was pretty dirty and had residue that was hardened on it. cleaned it all up but still hard to move gear lever. The only thing is that the shift cable on the driver side on trans is a bit loose. Could this be cause of why its hard to move lever? Dealer said it could be shift cables binding, how to tell or what to and where for binding shift cables. Thanks ALL

  6.  

    Can a faulty oil sending unit cause the RED Oil can display Engine oil pressure too low? Had this problem dealer said it was AOS, replaced and after 5000k it came back. At idle the oil pressure needle bounces up and down between 1-2  and at 3000 rpm needle stays at 2-2.5 but nothing higher. No oil leaks, oil level is perfect and dealer just replaced AOS. No strange sounds from engine , changed oil and it looked clean no metal bits s some suggested to check. 02 Carrera 220K on odometer, all service updated.

     

    The sensor could be going south.  What oil are you running in the engine?

     

    0w-40

  7. Can a faulty oil sending unit cause the RED Oil can display Engine oil pressure too low? Had this problem dealer said it was AOS, replaced and after 5000k it came back. At idle the oil pressure needle bounces up and down between 1-2  and at 3000 rpm needle stays at 2-2.5 but nothing higher. No oil leaks, oil level is perfect and dealer just replaced AOS. No strange sounds from engine , changed oil and it looked clean no metal bits s some suggested to check. 02 Carrera 220K on odometer, all service updated.

  8. Anyone know if there is a special in getting the water pump back in place on 02' 996. I was able to easily get it out by wiggling it but having major trouble getting it back in due to a metal pipe that is in the way. Thermostat if blocking the pipe from dropping and I don't even want to mess with removing thermostat. I know on gen 1 996 u can drop the metal pipe but I can't see how u can do it with 996.2

  9. 996 targa sun shade wont close all the way and sags. I took old one out and noticed that those metal clips that hold the sun shade which move up and down the rail do not move forward all the way when trying to close but stops halfway while the other keeps going and vice versa . So my questions is what needs to be replaced or part number to replace both those moving metal clips that move the sun shade open and close. Is it apart of the frame? its own rail system? seen diagrams for all arts but cannot tell which I need. Thanks

  10. attachicon.gifphoto2.JPG

    How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts?

    Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible?

    -Bill

    Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer

    Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?attachicon.gifphoto5.JPG

    Here is the passenger side that hasn't gone out yet but is probably the same aftermarket part which shop got from SSF. What are the major issues that are causing these to go out??? I thought they are suppose to take daily driving on poor roads. Seriously what is the point of having pss10s if you cant drive daily on all conditions and having to replace mounts every 10K?? PLease inputpost-12269-0-81826700-1391927861_thumb.j

  11. post-12269-0-69467800-1391927797_thumb.j

    How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts?

    Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible?

    -Bill

    Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer

    Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?attachicon.gifphoto5.JPG

  12. How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts?

    Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible?

    -Bill

    Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer

    Here is driver side strut going through the fender thus making the clunking over all bumps. all four have gone out and this is the third time. Any other strut mounts I can use that will take the abuse of everyday driving over bumpy roads?post-12269-0-51663600-1391927556_thumb.j

  13. How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts?

    Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible?

    -Bill

    Bill This is what the strut mount looks like when it goes out. It just went out again today and this is the third time. The independent shop I went to said it was factory but infact an aftermarket one made in Germany. I have a 996 targa and was told that pss10s would be ok to use factory strut mounts. the car is 25 inch f/r ride height. Is the set up wrong here where my front and rear mounts are going out less than 12-15k miles?? I do drive on lots of bumpy roads but I assume that it was souse to be able to handle them. Any suggestions anyone ?? Im going to look or new dealer

  14. 2011 Cayenne S, just received the yellow message display on dash saying oil minimum reached. Added 1 quart of oil drove for 10 miles the display still pops up everytime. The strange thing is It wont let me get an oil reading saying it needs more time or something. I then changed the oil with oil filter and added exact 9.51 quarts of mobil 1 and started the car drove for another 10 miles and the same yellow minimum oil level reached stills pops up. Called dealer and he said just to keep driving for another 40 miles and it will go away and it didn't. Dash oil level will still not even give a reading saying it cannot give a reading at this time. Is this something engine related? computer in dash? Car drives great and oil pressure is good. Car had less than 15K. Thanks all!

    Oil reading back to normal after 75 miles of driving....

  15. 2011 Cayenne S, just received the yellow message display on dash saying oil minimum reached. Added 1 quart of oil drove for 10 miles the display still pops up everytime. The strange thing is It wont let me get an oil reading saying it needs more time or something. I then changed the oil with oil filter and added exact 9.51 quarts of mobil 1 and started the car drove for another 10 miles and the same yellow minimum oil level reached stills pops up. Called dealer and he said just to keep driving for another 40 miles and it will go away and it didn't. Dash oil level will still not even give a reading saying it cannot give a reading at this time. Is this something engine related? computer in dash? Car drives great and oil pressure is good. Car had less than 15K. Thanks all!

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