moosey

I had recently installed PSS10 4 months ago and after 10K miles I had a clunking sound coming from both front and rears. The problem ended up being the strut mounts on all four corners. Now after another 15K miles on them it looks like the fronts have gone out again as going over speed bumpy roads the front suspension feels loose and bangs away with clunking. I know this because when I take a look at the front where suspension is mounted it is now popped up about 1-1/2inch above hole where mounting bolts are. Independent shop replaced the fronts last time with part number 997-343-01801 which I looked up at pelican parts to be an after market part. I told the shop I only wanted factory parts. Does anyone one think it could just be a cheap part that went out? It stinks because the left front has the same part number too. Can someone give me the correct part number for 2002 Targa. Or I was thinking do I need stronger strut mounts since I have PSS10 on or factory rubber ones gonna be ok this time. Car will be taken in tomorrow. Thanks ALL!

Will Sport Techno wheels fit 02' targa

Without any mods. I have pss10 on the car. Local dealer said I can't and have read that there will be no problems with the rears being 295/30 11x18 . Want rennteams advice. Thanks all

Yes, but your fit will vary with tires - different manufacturers tires may be wide enough to interfere with the fender or strut (on the rears).

No way to know unless you test fit or know someone with the same tire/wheel combination. Many tires are likely fine but you could find one brand or two that will cause issues.

Thanks loren

FWIW. I was actually looking to replace my 19" rims with 18" sport techno rims. I am currently running 11x19 rims now on the rear without any problems (also on an 02' Targa). I'm not sure of the offset but they do stick out a little farther than they should. I don't mind but some might. This is lowered with a Techart coil-over suspension which is similar to pss10.

Hello kgoertz, so it should be fine and no mods?? Thanks!

Will Sport Techno wheels fit 02' targa

Without any mods. I have pss10 on the car. Local dealer said I can't and have read that there will be no problems with the rears being 295/30 11x18 . Want rennteams advice. Thanks all

Sometimes they just don't want to stay put, in those cases we use a bit of 3M Weather Stripping adhesive (in black) to make it stay in place, works great:3M Weather Stripping Adhesive.jpg

Thanks all ! you guys are the best. Will give it a shot.

2007 997 sunroof gasket keeps coming off, is there any glue Porsche uses to keep it on? or do I just need to replace it. I think the part number is 997.564.211.00

I have X74 on 996 targa which had over 88,000 miles on all highway driving. Noticed today that right rear inner tire completely worn down to steel cord. Car drives perfect so Im guessing its time to change. How many miles do they normally last and does anyone know where i can purchase another X74 set because Carnewal has it out of production. Any suggestions on alternatives would be great.

The hard lines do not go directly to the calipers, they go first to a flex line between the hard line and the caliper so the unit can move. The hard line/ flex line connections is seen about mid frame on the left of this photo:

We regularly get cars flat bedded in because someone left the line open too long and got air back up into the system far enough to cause the system to go nuts. If you disconnect the hard line for any length of time, it needs to be capped or plugged.

Exactly what are you trying to do?

Thanks JFP, so the hard line that is going into the caliper when it is removed can i hold it tight with hand and rag because i was told to just screw it directly into the new caliper. In understand that the flex line connect to an upper section hard line but im talking about quickly removing the one end of hard line that is connected to caliper itself and screwing onto new caliper. Thanks for all input !

First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings:

These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment.

Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

Thanks, i was told I would just need to remove the hard line only that goes into the caliper. Alsowas told by dealer tech that the abs pump would only need bleeding when replacing master cylinder. Do know what size wrench is used for the nut on hard line going into caliper?

Thanks All , dealer tech said it 11mm

First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings:

These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment.

Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

Thanks, i was told I would just need to remove the hard line only that goes into the caliper. Alsowas told by dealer tech that the abs pump would only need bleeding when replacing master cylinder. Do know what size wrench is used for the nut on hard line going into caliper?

Need to remove fron calipers on 997 C2, the hard brake line going into the caliper can someone tell me the size wrench needed as i do not want to strip the bolt incase its hard to get off. Thanks!

Something does not seem right. About the "damper" being "rusted in". Explain better, please. Photos??

As for the brake fluid, use a power bleeder, don't need to go to the dealership.

thanks , will post pics next week. I tried removing the aluminum stud that is rusted into the upper piston and the the screw holding damper plate striped. SO i tried to drill the screw out hoping the stud would come out and that did not word. Used pb blaster,wd40 with no results. So im going to replace both front calipers. Do you have anu write ups on reomving the calipers or can forward a link? I could not find on site when searching. Thanks to all of you with advice and suggestion you guys are the best!

2007 C2, went to change brakes and found that the dampers on both front calipers are completely rusted in. Tried using wd40 with no luck, it is the bigger and upper piston that is stuck. Looks like i have to replace both front brake calipers so i wanted to get confirmation on the procedure on how to do this. Do I just unscrew the line going directly into the caliper and plug in the new one?

As for bleeding I have never done this and wanted to know if it can be done on a 2007 997 C2 without bring it to the dealer and which is the best bleeder system to buy for this and procedure.

Thanks All!

Wanted to share my experience with restoring headlights on my 996 that were cracking an yellowing

Did hours of research and decided to go with

The highly recommended by popular mechanics with the Sylvania headlight kit.

My lights were so bad that I had nothing to lose so I followed the kits directions step by step

And after 45 min per light the results are amazing!!!

Here are a couple of before and after pictures. It suppose to last a very long time

As hope that's true. Been driving for a week and still looks perfect.

As mentioned above the scratches/burns/lines will come out its easy. Use 1500 sand paper, cut pieces of the sand paper into small squares. let ir soak for 5 minutes in soapy water. Using circular motions lightly go over the entire headlight. Re-dip into the soapy water very often. Remember it's a WET sanding process. Continue until all scars are gone. Use a towel to dry it every now and then so you can evaluate how your doing. When everything that went wrong before is gone and they look nice and smooth and dull from the 1500 grid repeat the process with 2000 grid. I use Meguiars polishing compound to complete the process with a variable speed buffer than finish with whatever polish or wax you normally use on the paint by hand. I wax my 996 twice a month and always wax the front headlights and rear tail lights. They won't yellow at all if you keep waxing or polishing. Best of luck.... They're plastic and they will be fine.

Wouldnt that remove UV layer and will cause lens to blister

Pittmans acrylic lens deoxidizer? Has anyone used this on their cars? I have major oxidation thick yellow and I'm told this stuff will remove it fast. Just wanted to see it any Porsche owners have used it.

When the AOS fails, the vacuum level jumps from around 5 inches of water at the oil fill cap at idle to over 20 inches. If you do not have the equipement to check this, and the cap is very difficult to nearly impossible to get off at an idle, you need an AOS. The fact that you are also seeing smoke is a second indication. Do the AOS and be done with it before it totally craps out and strands you, or worse..............

Thanks I confirmed it is the AOS! Took off top pipe that goes to intake and covered both hole that it would normally go into with cloth and started motor and no noise! Put back on tube from AOS to intake and noise came right back. Thanks!

Looked at problem again so I decided to open oil cap when engine was running and it was very difficult to open and take off. No problem with engine off. Let motor run for 20 min to listen and now if I had to guess it is coming from the aos but can't be completely sure . I do get white smoke every now and then buy no idle problem and drivability as the car drives great. Could this be an AOS problem just with a different symptom ? Or do I have two problems . Don't really want to change if I can be sure. So if anyone out there has had this same or similar problem which was cured by replacing AOS please leave feedback. Thanks

Does any of that sound still exist if you remove the polyrib belt and run the car (short time only please)?

Also, does it stay the same with RPM changes or speed up and slow down with RPM?

I have not tried to start the car without belt on as I did not know it was ok to do so, but the noise stays on when driving and at idle

Removed belt today and started motor and sound went away, put belt back on and sound came back . The sound is coming from some where on top but can't pin point. Listen to all idlers and pulleys and none make noise or wobble. Suggestions on what to do next would be great if anyone out there has had this similar noise. Can it be a pulley even though none make noise or wobble? Car has 160k on it 5 speed.

Does any of that sound still exist if you remove the polyrib belt and run the car (short time only please)?

Also, does it stay the same with RPM changes or speed up and slow down with RPM?

I have not tried to start the car without belt on as I did not know it was ok to do so, but the noise stays on when driving and at idle

Anyone have any ideas what this sound could be? Checked all pulleys , belt, water pump and all seems fine. What else can I do?

boxster.MOV

Hi Everyone here is the video of the whistle like noise coming from motor. Does not seem to be coming from any of the pulleys but near the throttle body?

AOS. .?

What's the best way to check aos? Thanks

99" boxster with 160k. No leaks all service up to date and no warning light. At idle I get this whistle noise which sounds like it is coming towards throttle body not sure. Check all pulleys and thy are all fine. Car drives great but once at idle the noise comes back and goes when driving. Here is a video I made I what it sounds like at idle.

Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

Yes, Item 18 would be correct.

996.106.226.52 Joining socket -- US MSRP $4.57