veshman

I mounted my V-1 on the passengers visor and then used a remote head and put it by the front left speaker. It's easy to see any alerts with your peripheral vision.

With the top up or down drivers behind you can not see the remote. Also, no tape was needed to hold the remote in place, it just sits secure in its place.

Here's a pic.

I don't think the V1 works the same if you take it apart and separate all the sensors. It's programmed to help you decide where the signal is coming from based on the strength of signals it is picking up from the front and rear sensors. When the distance between the two sensors goes from 3 inches to 10 feet, at different heights, it's not going to be able to analyze the signals the same way. I'm sure it will still "work" but it's not going to be as accurate.

I thought about a bunch of different ways to mount it, and I finally decided just sticking it to the windshield about 3 inches below the rearview mirror and left or right of the antenna whenever I was using it gave me the best experience. I only use it on the interstates and long drives. It takes 15 seconds to stick it up and plug it in, and comes down with a one handed motion in no time.

Worn out headlight switch?

Hmmmm...well, the headlights are working, and so are the fog/parking lights. I feel like something is shorted. Something else that is happening is that when I have the headlights on, I can hear a buzz in my speakers. And there is an clicking noise in the speakers whenever I am moving (headlghts on or off).

I think this will end up being pretty good, but may feel like it's missing the presence of mid and high frequencies from below (250Hz and up is only coming from the dash).

Do you mean from behind?

Thanks for the pictures, that unit fits there quite well it looks!

Having been through several iterations of upgrades, which include upgrading the head unit, amp, dash speakers, door speakers with baffle, and finally a custom sub, I can tell you that getting a good custom sub in your car is definitely what you need if you want awesome clear sound with good tight bass while you're driving 80mph with the top down. I spent a lot of time trying to avoid the expense, but now I couldn't be happier. Techno, house, rap, 80's hairband, all sound fantastic when the music is pumped up and you can feel it in your chest but still hear crystal clear vocals. I used to spend 6-8 hours a week on the interstate in the car, so I definitely know this particular issue well. A lot of upgrades sound *good*, but if you want awesome, you have to get a good sub.

In my opinion, and the problem that I haven't quite solved yet, is that getting great mids is probably the hardest part of getting the Boxster to sound perfect. There is definitely certain music that is heavy on the mids that don't sound great at lower volumes...I put in the rear Bose Sounddeck which has helped, but I still haven't gotten the mids right where they should be. Not sure if it can be done.

Bhavesh

Hi, my Headlight On Warning Sound suddenly stopped functioning a few months ago...anyone have any ideas as to what might be going on? e.g. I'm talking about the chime/bell that goes off if you leave your headlights on after you take the key out. I suddenly stopped getting that warning.....which has led to a few drained batteries :(

thanks for any thoughts,

Bhavesh

I recently installed the Avic D3 Navigation with rear view camera in my 2000 Boxster. Still have a few interior upgrades to do but the navigation system install was a success and really made the interior look phenomenal and updated.

What was needed for the job:

T20 Torx Screwdriver

Phillips Screwdriver

A dremel with cutting wheel

A file to sand down rough edges

Electrical tape & Wiring Caps

Wire Stripper

Double Din Kit Includes:

Precision cut fascia (trim) piece in Piano Finish to match Pioneer System

Double Din Housing & Brackets

Double Din Custom Support Bracket for Porsche

Heat Shield, Complete Wiring Harnesses, Antenna Adapter & Radio Removal Keys

Some of the things I really like about my new system is that I know that the install is solid. One of the challenges I noticed other folks had was the weight of the system, and so they elected to have it sit low as possible on the dash. Using the custom support bracket to support the back end of the navigation, and also choosing to mount the double din housing as high up as possible, I was able to keep most of the gap below the system as oppose to the top. And to make sure my stereo stays relatively unaffected by the heat from the climate duct system, I installed a heat shield between the duct and navigation.

The other challenge was that most standard double din navigation systems are a lot smaller than the size of my boxster's opening, so regardless of what I install it was going to make the system appear smaller. Didn't like that look too much, so instead of trying to match up the fascia piece to my car, I went with the piano black fascia piece instead to match it up to the Pioneer system. I think going this route made the fascia piece look like its part of the stereo which gives the illusion that the system is a bit bigger.

Anyways, I posted some of the pics below for everyone to check out!

OMG...This looks AWESOME. I have replaced everything in my 97 boxster, finally putting an Alpine double-din in after moving the instrument cluster....I've lived with the 1cm gap at the top for years, and now I feel so GHETTO. Hats off!

Where are you in regards to a universal mounting kit that would work for me, and how hard would it be for me to get some custom trim from you?

Thanks!

Bhavesh

This picture is from another poster Chris who has an small active compact Kenwood subwoofer in the passenger footwell of his Boxster.....

I now have this same setup, and it <b>sounds great</b>! I'm using an a/d/s/ AB-308 8" compact powered sub.

The problem is, the box, which measures 13 x 10 x 2.5 inches, keeps sliding around as I accelerate........... does anyone know what would be the best way to mount the box in this location?

- Strong velcro?

- Drill holes through the floor?

- Lift the carpet somehow and put a piece of MDF wood underneath?

???

Anyone has advice?

Thanks!

I have a custom 8" sub that was built by Jamey Rawlings who used to be with Paris Audio...It sounds awesome and I pound the h*ll out of it...e.g. mirrors vibrating, punchy bass (on the right song), seats vibrating, etc. It's really amazing. On the install, basically I drilled a screw right through the back of the speaker box into the floor board. E.g. remove the drive to access in the inside of the enclosure, drill the screw through, and replace the driver. Be careful not to use too long of a screw or you will go into the gas tank (not a problem unless you ever have to remove the gas tank or the the sub).

Bhavesh

You would be better off by installing a 3.4L engine from an older 996.

The 3.2 from the "S" will fit, but you may have issues with the e-gas engine.

Your '97 is a non-e-gas engine, so is the 3.4L from the 996.

You should also consider replacing the tranny with the engine.

Happy Boxstering,

Pedro

thanks pedro. i actually called some performance upgrade shops, and it sounds like there's all kinds of other issues, too, such as wiring, computers, programming, connections to the exhaust, etc.

there's a lot more than i thought!

so, i think i'm probably not going to do this kind of an upgrade.

bhavesh

rev matching is tapping the gas to bring up the rpms then down shift, by tapping the gas first it puts less work on the clutch .

that was really great! thanks for the description...i've done some of that at times on my own, but didn't really know what I was doing.

sounds like something else that will be fun to practice!

bhavesh

Hi, I want to upgrade my 1997 Boxster engine.

Does anyone know if a 2001 Boxster S engine will fit? I know I have to get the wiring and computer, but will it physically fit and work with the transmission?

Thanks,

Bhavesh

Here you go....

wow, who makes that sub? what kind of drivers are those?

hey AK,

not sure why no-one's responded yet...

but i would say that as long as you're not 'grinding the gears' then you're ok. i usually push the pedal all the way to the floor, but i'm 6'1" so it's not a problem or anything. but then again, you had your clutch replaced at 60K while i'm at 95K on my original (1997) clutch. also, some clutches engage higher or lower in the arc of motion of the pedal. i had a Honda that you only had to move the pedal about 2 inches.

things to keep in mind when using the clutch are:

-make a habit of keeping your foot off the pedal, except for when it needs to be there

-clutches have a limited amount of shifts in them; downshifting thru all of the gears (5th to 4th to 3rd, etc.) to decelerate will cut your clutch life significantly (can be minimized via rev matching)

-brakes are much cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch

-rev matching (blipping the throttle) when downshifting will save clutch wear. once you get in the habit of doing this, it will be automatic. it sounds really cool too! ;)

could you describe the actual procedure on 'rev matching'? I'm not sure exactly what that is. most of the time, I switch into the gear that will most likely be appropriate for the speed I'm going....but a lot of times, for fun, I will shift into a lower gear for a harder stop

thanks!

bhavesh