pjalexandre

Awesome and great job.

Now if you could id alternates to the sealed bearings used in the transmission that would be a huge savings. Porshe wants $365 for one and $265 for another. It adds up pretty quick to nearly $1K in bearings when you go to rebuild the trans in either the Boxster, BoxsterS or 996.

When I first bought my 1997 Boxster, I trailered it home and took it for a ride to my kids school. One of the serpentine belt pulleys locked up and it threw the belt off.

I loaded it back on the trailer and brought it home. I took off the pulley and replaced the bearing as I am cheap. Now that my engine is out of the car I replaced the other 2 and snapped some pictures. The bearings cost me about $8.00 each (I buy quite a few bearings each month for my company) It is really easy to do if you have a vice to use as a press. The bearing I used was a 6203 NSE Nachi.

Lot of people go the other way and put a 3.4, 3.6 and 3.8 in their BoxsterS that comes with a 3.2 The 3.4 is a bored out 3.2. You will lose HP and have to swap over a lot of components. Why not go the other direction? A 3.6 or 3.8 to get more power while you are doing the work anyhow.

Hi

My 3.4 engine blow up, and I found a boxter cheap 3.2 engine (for spare parts).

What differences there are between those two engines, i.e which parts I CANNOT USE? I think I´ve seen somewhere that the engine block is different...but I can´t remember. I did a serach, but couldn´t find the messages anymore.

Thanks guys!

Kare

Cool idea. You can never have enough of em. The reason that some cig lighter adapters "pop" out of the porsche is because our cars have the slightly bigger Euro sized socket vs the smaller US size.

From wiki...

12 volt cigar lighter receptacle and plug, size A

* Receptacle inside diameter: 20.93 mm to 21.01 mm (median 20.97 mm)

* Plug body diameter: 20.73 mm to 20.88 mm (median 20.805 mm)

* Most often used in American automobiles.

12 volt cigar lighter receptacle and plug, size B

* Receptacle inside diameter: 21.41 mm to 21.51 mm (median 21.455 mm)

* Plug body diameter: 21.13 mm to 21.33 mm (median 21.18 mm)

* Most often used in European automobiles, and sometimes as a second socket in American automobiles expressly for DC power connections.

As we all know, the early 996 and 986 are great sports cars, but lack a few amentities that it's nice to have, especially on long trips. There's no cup holders. On top of that, the cigarette lighters - even the updated replacement versions - don't work too well as power adapters. I have a couple different plugs that instantly pop back out of mine.

Anyway, I was at the hardware store picking up some stuff for the house last weekend, and I realized that their project aluminum was the perfect size to fit in the gap between the upper and lower portions of my 99 996 cab's center console. The cost for a 4' piece of this aluminum was $7.50.

I went by O'Reilly's and picked up an accessory power plug for $1.99.

I already had the Belkin Tunebase for my iPhone that I used in another car, but the stock cigarette lighter in the Porsche couldn't hold it up.

I popped the dash panel with the cigarette lighter off and put blade tips on a couple wires that I slid into the back of the stock lighter plug. I then ran the wires to a quick release clip and then to the new accessory plug.

I've now got the Belkin Tunebase secure in my new accessory plug on one end of the aluminum strip. At the other end I'm either going to attach my power inverter or a cup holder, or maybe both if I can figure out something ingenius enough.

Right now I just have a couple strips of tape holding the aluminum in place to keep it from sliding down into the dash. I'm considering using velcro to hold it in place, but I'm hesitant because when I remove it, you could see the velcro in the crack. I'm thinking a better idea would be to find some sort of rubber front I can put on the edge of the aluminum, so that it won't slide all the way into the crack. However, I'd love to hear any innovative ideas you guys might have.

The whole point of this was to be able to add some convenient accessories in a totally non-destructive way, so that I can quickly remove it and there's no trace of anything done to the car.

Thanks for any input on how I can improve the idea, and I hope it might be helpful to some of you.

I think that is a great idea and one we needed for some time. The stock thermo doesn't even start flowing until well past 180 in reality. But isn't the Porsche tax on a low temp thermostat kinda high?

LN Engineering is now offering a 160 thermo and housing as opposed to the stock 180. This might help! It fits the M96 and M97! Cost $171.95

http://www.lnengineering.com/lowtemperaturethermostat.html

Philip,

Glad to hear you got your car back. So, you are liking the 3.6?

Does your VC kick in with a hard shove going past 3500 or so? My tuning was done by Protomotive who did Roock use for yours?

Best,

-Paul

Here is the little info that I have saved on this topic that someone else posted a while back ago on another forum. Hope it helps.

Paul

I will post a write up on this installation when I get my parts in. At that time I will inform the board where I found the scavange pump kit and the avalibility of any others.

I have been told that this is not a a total fix to all the oil lubrication issues that come up when tracking a 996, but it is a start in the right direction ,if you want a 996 to operate reliably on the track.

At this time I would just be curious if anyone on the board has performed the X51 Oilling modification.

D_Man

I can get you the details but you have to tell me where you found the dual stage scavenge pump and if there are any left. PM please. :)

-Paul

All,

I'm in the process of installing the X51 Oiling mod that was offered on early ROW 996's 99-02. This was a PMNA mod for competition that provided lubrication to cylinders 4-6 in long extended left hand turns on the race track. Im needing specs on machining for the oil return tube and attaching hardware. Any one gut any clues. This was a very rare installation and only came on the early Euro sport 996 with M96 3.4 Engine.

Someone said this might have been in a TSB, but the information is seriously out of date by todays standards. PNMA no longer offers this as a modification.

I no one knows about it Im sure I'll get by as its just basic engine machining techniques.

D_Man

Yeah but my leg gets tired. :) Sorry but I and nearly everyone I know who drives a stick leaves it in neutral at a red light.

Just drive like you are supposed to do and keep the car. in gear at all times. Sitting at a light in neutral is not only unsafe buy can cause problems such as the one you have as well as puts unnecessary stress on the syncos. The explaination that Barry gave is right on, so just keep it in gear. You should be able to downshift into first gear at any speed under 30 mph.

SPEC clutches has what you are looking for. Look them up on google.

-Paul

GT3 clutch is not interchangeable with 996 Carrera's engines and gearboxes, complete different design, approx. the same as the Turbo system.

Thanks for the feedback.

In that case I might opt for this SACHS unit that Pelican offers.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/euro/cgi-bin/s...n=881861856-M38

Any ideas as to whether this could work?

Joost

Phillip,

Best of luck to you. I went through this 1 year ago and ended doing the same. Buying a low mile 3.6 (996 based) and had Roock in Atlanta do the install/conversion.

Extremely happy with all of it.

-Paul

Just wanted to update my situation on my blown 3.4 motor delimma.......... :angry:

I have decided against going with another 3.4 motor from Porsche. If I'm going to spend this kind of money I'm not comfortable with another 3.4

I'm going to do a 3.6 997 engine swap. I found a 997 3.6 engine(a much better engine than the 3.4) with 12k miles from a theft recovery. I got a one year warranty on the engine. :clapping:

Roock Autosport in Atlanta is going to do the conversion. They have pioneered this swap. They reprogram the existing 3.4 DME and add software and electronics to run the Vario-Cam. The Porsche PSE and cruise control will still function properly. They will warranty their work for 1 year as well.

They have a facility in Los Angeles where the work will be done.

The total cost will be about $10,500 to $11,000. :o (Yikes that could buy a lot other stuff I really need like food). And yes I know that I could "buy a Turbo" on E bay for "blah blah blah" dollars.

Fact is I would take a total loss if I sold the car "as is" with a blown motor. I bought the car for a little over $30k and would be lucky to get $10k for it in it's current state.

Being in the money managment business I ran many scenarios for my delimma. My calculator told me to fix the car and drive it for a few years.

I will update everyone on how the project is going and the end result. The project should start in about a week and the car will be finished by the end of the month. We will see.......... :rolleyes:

Phillipj

+1 I get the same. However for short trip local stuff I drop down to about 19ish. Love this car getting 29mpg on the highway on my way to the track where I'll get abou 8-9 mpg :)

According to the trip computer I get 23.7 mixed city/highway. Pure highway I can get 28-29.

wrong tool, that is for the Engine Oil drain plug not transmission.

Are you sure it is not a triple square?

Hmm. Let me double check. I will update this posting tomorrow.

It's not a triple square as well. Is it the same wrench for Euro or ROW version 911? Any other suggestions will be appreciated.

As far as I know US/Canada and RoW are the same either triple square or allen head.

Is there a chance is that my fill plug is the tamper proof type? Do I need to purchase a tamper proof toll like the on in the link below?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...l_pg1.htm#item2

Thanks!

Just because the Portuguese Porsche dealers don't have a PPI concept doesn't mean that you can't ask them to perform the service. It would be no different than say asking a dealer to do a track day inspection for your car when they don't routinely do them. You pay.. they do.

My father purchased a late model car last spring in Portugal and most of it was done from here in the US. And the dealer did the equivalent of a PPI for us. I just got on the phone and explained what I wanted them to check for and how much they would charge.

Cheers,

-Paul

In Europe, some contries dont have the PPI concept. For instance, in Portugal, there's no PPI from official Porsche dealers... and TBH I dont trust non-official dealers to perform this kind of inspection.

Cheers

Hey Pete,

How ya been? Great to hear you sorted it out. I am sure it will turn out really nice. Show some pics of how our car is coming along.

-Paul

The 997 3.6 headers are the same as the 996 3.6 headers. You don't actually want the 997S headers. Neither of the 997 units is the old x51 for the 3.4 or 3.6. The new 3.8 x51 headers are the ones to get. imho

as above... will this work.. is there any advantage?

are the 997 headers the old X51 headers for 996?

i am looking into getting these..thanks in advance

my car:

1999 996 3.4 C2

100k km (as of yesterday!!)

Rod

Each wheel bearing has an MSRP of about $80 - so I assume the $500 is for both.

Thanks!

Thanks... $500 for both or for just one side?

One of mine is making noise, figure I should do both fronts at the same time and this is fairly advanced for a DIY and requires special tools.

How much can I expect to pay to get these done?

Thanks!

-Paul

Unless someone bent it trying to jack the car up using that spot instead of the one directly behind it. Looks bent...could be the angle.

That valve is not a known source of leaks.

I really doubt that you can use the RTS from a coupe on a cab w/ a hardtop. Does the Hardtop have the little slot doors to take the receptacle like the Coupe?

Willwood systems makes a hitch and assorted bike carriers that work very nicely.

Willwood Hitches

I have a SCII. It works just fine with the 996. It can be mounted in the car all the time and displays/records some useful data. A cheapie OBDII scanner if prob better if you don't need/want it in the car or the additional features.

Has anyone tried one of these ScanGauge IIs with their 996?

http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/car/8426/

It says compatible with all models, but I've heard that before ...

I'm thinking about ordering the OBD II, but this would be cheaper and easier since my only laptop computer is a company computer.

Geoff,

I think that you need to go back and get baselines. You are assuming that under normal conditions your left and right rotor surface temps are the same as a starting point. This is not the case. As observed on other folks cars and my own... My rotor surface temps differ from left to right by as much as 50F using the same ducts on each side. Without before temps and after temps you can tell conclusively anything.

Also: I having been using these 997 GT3 ducts for about 1 year now and am pretty happy w/ their performance on the track.

The 04 GT2 uses the same exact susp and the 04 GT3. I have an 04 GT3 susp in my 1999 C2. Extensive write up on RL under gt3 suspension w/ user ID Paul 996.

The earlier GT2 susp while it will fit isn't as desirable as the GT3 based units. They are much softer and not much of an upgrade, you are better off with an x73 unit. The main benefit of the 04+ GT3 susp is the monoball front upper strut mount which has two settings (one for much more negative camber if you are so inclined)

Basically these just bolt right in, ignore the ill informed posts of having to change your wheel carriers and uprights. Same is true of any 2 wheel drive based car (interchangeable) Cheers! :)

Why on earth would you jump to the conclusion that someone would go to the trouble of creating identical replicas of Bilstein PSS9s?

To reinforce what Loren said. You just need to know if they came off a C2 based car (rear wheel drive) or a C4/C4s/TT type car (all wheel drive).

well I contacted the seller and he just has lie after lie.

First he bought them from a friend who has a gt3 (not sure why he had to tell me that, maybe to give me the impression hes got firends with porches).Then he siad he got them from pelican parts. Then when I called him on it and said look up those numbers at Bilstein this is what he said:

"Just confirmed with Bilstein that those #'s have NO MEANING to the layman. This is a complete bolt on kit. Unless your a dealer what you see is usless!! Go ahead and find an authorized dealer *******. Ask them and see what they say. "

LOL!!!!

Beware if this guy on ebay.

Good to hear... so now we know that you are a character :)

Well an honest answer to your question.. No you should not Cruise for extended periods at an RPM as high as 4K. Drop it in 5th or 6th gear depending on your speed.

The other extreme is what we call lugging the engine which would be like cruising along at hwy speed in 6th and slowing down behind someone doing 45 and keeping it in 6th and trying to accelerate.. The RPMs would be in the 2k range and the car would feel unresponsive...this is the opportunity to use that lever with 6 #'s on it, select 2nd or 3rd depending on your speed and appetite for forward thrust and blast away.. once you settle down to "cruise" pick the gear 5th or 6th that feel appropriate without revvving the engine.

I'll answer this now since I know you want to ask... Is it ok to shift a gear in between.. like going from 1st to 3rd.. or 2nd to 4th, etc

Yes it is perfectly ok. Many folks will enjoy their car from a stop using all the rpms available in 1st and 2nd to merge onto the hwy up an onramp then since 2nd already has you surpassing 70 just shift over into 5/6th and blend in with traffic and cruise.

There ya go! Welcome aboard.