pjalexandre

Hey Phillip,

it is common to check the tubes out when you 1st replace your plugs. The old style o rings leaked and needed to replaced wholesale with the newer style.. However the tubes themselves do crack and leak that way as well. I had 2 cracked ones.

This is actually a very very easy job if you remove your mufflers. Otherwise it is a huge PITA.

Best...

-Paul

Sometimes I really wish I wouldn't post.

Seriously though... Cruising at 4K? Posts a picture of a shifter to show us all that "this is similar to what he uses to shift the gears with"

I see nothing negative about asking the OP to clarify if he is really serious or just having fun.

A serious post deserves a serious answer. A joke post deserves..Whatever.. Have fun with this folks.

Is this post a joke??

Anyhow, why would you want to do that? Cruise at 4000 rpm... that is just plain abuse. When you drive your automatic do you hold her in 2nd on the highway to enjoy cruising along at 4k rpm? Didn't think so.

Also, I am glad you use the shifter to shift your gears with. Novel way to get it done. :)

-P

Is it okay for the engine if I cruise at 4,000?

This is similar to what I use to shift my gears with:

Dan,

I am the guy Michael is referring to here. The tuner that put the 3.4 in his boxster also put a 3.6 in my 1999 996 that normally would have a 3.4. Mine runs right and pretty darn strong if I don't mind saying so. Unless you are a really good mechanic this is not a DIY. There are a couple of techniques to get this done; none are wrong but some are more stock appearing than others. Get a hold of someone who has done it before. There isn't room for guess work here, just a few valid approaches to interfacing the newer engine to an older chassis.

Also... the junkyard wants to charge to $10k for exactly what?? the installation and conversion labor (that is much more than 2x what it should cost) ? Your 1st post says that you already have the actual engine correct?

Good luck..

-Paul

I'd highly recommend using a shop where they specialize in engine swaps. I had my 2000 Boxster fitted with a 3.4 and a buddy had his 99 C2 fitted with a 3.6. The results are fantastic, and you get the support of the shop. They've already made most of the mistakes you'd likely make doing it on your own. Let their experience work in your favor.

-Michael

Well that is my next option here after I return the other ones. I plan to order a 996.107.243.40 (that is the x51 baffles and a new oil pan). I was trying to order just the baffles/windage tray so I didn't have to throw out a perfectly good $170 oil pan (the parts for those btw are identical) but Porsche forces you to buy a new oil pan just to get the x51 baffles.

Hey Loren,

I tried ordering 997.107.243.00 and what came is the black plastic style windage tray that looks pretty much the same as what comes in the 3.4 and 3.6.

Any suggestions? I may just have to get the assembly # quoted below.

-Paul

All I can tell you is that if you look at the replacement parts list for standard and X51 engines it says to use that 997 part number for the windage tray.

The old number for the assembly (996.107.243.40) comes up in the price list but not in the parts list - go figure.

Did you try to order the old part number (996.107.243.40)?

Hey Loren,

I tried ordering 997.107.243.00 and what came is the black plastic style windage tray that looks pretty much the same as what comes in the 3.4 and 3.6.

Any suggestions? I may just have to get the assembly # quoted below.

-Paul

All I can tell you is that if you look at the replacement parts list for standard and X51 engines it says to use that 997 part number for the windage tray.

The old number for the assembly (996.107.243.40) comes up in the price list but not in the parts list - go figure.

Loren,

Thanks much !

All I can tell you is that if you look at the replacement parts list for standard and X51 engines it says to use that 997 part number for the windage tray.

The old number for the assembly (996.107.243.40) comes up in the price list but not in the parts list - go figure.

Loren,

Thanks...not sure if you know but I thought the difference in the X51 oil pan was purely in the windage tray?

Lots of head scratching here...directed at Porsche. :)

The blanket replacement windage tray (for 3.4 and 3.6 liter engines including X51) is the now same part number as used on the 997.

997.107.243.00

Loren,

Do you know if there is a part # for the X51 windage tray? Seems that one could just possibly bolt the new x51 windage tray (AKA oil sump baffles) onto their existing oil pan.

Maybe I am crazy. :)

I say Go For It!

Folks have been stuffing LS1's into just about anything so why not a newer 911. There are conversion kits for the 944 and for the older 911s. You will be fabricating a lot of stuff to connect it. The older g50 Porsche trans bolts onto the chevy and is the standard in numerous kit cars. Don't know about the 996 trans and how different it is.

Keep us posted if you go this way.

-Paul

Bump, anyone know anything on how to get started with this or what to purchase for the 996/997 Motronic cars?

Curious if anyone here does their own Motronic tuning. A few of my buddies do this on to their factory computers on evo and wrx's using an OBD cable and special sw. Some other friends do this on aftermarket race car ECU's as well. They tell me I can get similar for my own car. Anyone know anything about this or where to get started.

Thanks -Paul

Normally it works the other way around. You can normally use narrow body wheels on a wide body car by using spacers to push the wheels further out to sit correctly in the wider fenders of the wide body car.

It unfortunately does not work the other way around as you would just be making the wide body wheel stick out even further on the narrow body. So the short answer is you cannot take wide body wheels like from a TT, GT2, GT3RS or C4S and put them on a narrow body car such at the standard 996, 997, GT3,etc.

Hope this helps ya.

-Paul

I think the salesman is right since the gt2 is a widebody just like the turbo.

the standard carerra has an offset of 57 front and 67 rear. and the turbo has

an offset of 57 front and 51 rear. Maybe if you put spacers in between it can be done

Hi all,

With the holidays I forgot about this thread but did post about it elsewhere.

I picked up the car as stated and proceeded to drive it home ~650 miles about 10 hours or so. Drove the car locally with the mechanic to get a feel for it and make sure everything was to my liking.

1st impressions.... started car up cold, everything in the dash and hvac works as it should. Car fired right up and with stable idle like it should, air injector whirring for the first few minutes. Drove it around easy for 20 minutes to warm it up once the temps and oil were up I had a bit of fun. A bit more low end torque then I remember and above 3500 it is a lot more fun then it was. 1st gear sometimes gets a little wheel spin as it passes 4K to redline. Feels good except that I already getting used to it.

Drove home and since the speed limit is 70mph most of the way I was doing 80+ the whole way. Got 27mpg on 2 tanks that way with more than a few acceleration runs up through the gears.

Car has been really good the last few weeks. Had a little scare with my temp light coming on after starting it up but that was just an air bubble coming out that required me to re top up the coolant tank since it was now low. No issues at all the last few days with it.

Overall very happy with it, feels pretty strong and agressive in the top range of the RPM. Other 3.4 and 3.6 owners that I have given rides to also felt that the top end was notably strong and pulled pretty hard relative to their cars.

Happy Holidays... and post note special thanks to Loren, search feature provided me with a nice post explaining all the functions of the temp gauge and why/when the light flashes. :)

Hey guys,

My car had an engine failure as well and I decided to upgrade to a 3.6 instead of just replacing with another 3.4. I am picking up my car this Friday as it is all done. I am really excited to pick it up. Will be taking a picture of the 3.4 with a connecting rod sticking out.

Of course this post makes me nervous. Hopefully I'll have better luck. Will post my observations as I have a very long drive home from the shop with the car.

-Paul

I have been offered a complete GT3 exhaust system from manifolds through to silencers to go on my 3.4 1999 996. Is it possible to fit that ?

No, not without welding and cutting.

Hi, I may be interested in the exhaust manifolds from that gt3. get in touch with details - Paul

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Can you mention where you had the work done? At least in which state they are located? :)

I'll be needing this done as well.

Thanks everyone!

I need to know where to look.

Thanks!

-Paul

I did a lot of research into this recently. I currently have a GT3 suspension on my 1999 996 C2. Didn't need to change anything, bolted right on just like an M030 or X74. There is a write up on RL just search for 996 and GT3 suspension. The GT2 from 2004 and up uses the same exact suspension (shocks, springs) as the 996 GT3. I have PN#s for the GT3 and GT2 setup somewhere. BTW: The earlier years GT2 would work but is not as good a suspension as the later one.

Car lost power all of sudden on the track. No signs of anything before that. Engine light came on, vibration through clutch pedal. Car running very rough (missing). Came straight into pits... engine idled fine but when revved up to 3k you can hear a thumping noise.

Codes: P0300, 0301, 0302, 0304, 0305, 1531 and 1313

Had it flat bedded to a shop in near home. Car starts and runs, moved it in the pits to position for tow truck and then again in the shop parking lot to park it.

Today the shop tech took it for a test drive and it died and won't restart about 1/2 mile from the shop. They don't know yet but think it needs a motor.

May look at a 2nd opinion... would the dealer be better than an independent?

Thanks.. -Paul

It sounds like you are referring to the front strut ? Just make sure the pinch bolt is completely loose and use a pry bar underneath levering it up. You can work on the Sway bar link once you get the strut off and have more room to work.

Strut removal question:

I cant seem to remove the stabilizer mount from the strut spindle assembly and the strut seems to be frozen solid as well. Has anyone come accross this problem before? My cars done 126000mile so I expected a few rusty bits. Ive tried WD40, a bit rubber mallet, a screw driver to chip all the old bits away and quite a bit of brute force. Stuck solid. Any help would be very gratefully received. One thing I did think was that maybe I have to buy a new assembly and remove the old one at the base and build up again.

Many Thanks in advance.......

Andrew

Hotrod,

I'll be doing one of these swaps shortly as well. Still waiting for a few missing parts. Doing a GT3 suspension over to 996 C2. One thing you may consider when increasing the spring rates is to have the GT3 shocks revalved to match the new spring rates.

Paul

I have a set of the 997 Cup Car Brake Ducts on order for my 996. Should have them next week and let you know my thoughts on them. This is for track btw

Hi,

Here is the link to the 997 GT-3 brake ducts. There is

a picture to see.

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=997brakes

Paul

Yeah, I mean the 997 Cup Car ducts. Not sure if they are as big as the 996 Cup Car ducts...

Yes, I can get you the part number but I think you are going to have to put them side by side with the GT3 ducts - or did you mean GT3 RS/Cup Car ducts. I am sure the GT3RS/Cup Car ducts are larger. You can really run the GT3 RS/Cup Car ducts on the street if your car is lowered - they will just scrape off.