ChrisZang

Sorry for resurrecting a very old thread.

I have a MY 2002 and the fix above only works for MY 2003 and higher (aparently Porsche changed the shape of the AOS a lot between these model years)

Does anyone know if there's an AOS that will fit my model year (2002) ?

Thanks

does anyone have a wiring layout for the wires which go to the OEM 4-channel amp (M490) in the front trunk?

This is for a 2002 non MOST car

I actually only need to know which of the wires is ground (I am trying to eliminate a ground loop)

Thanks

Chris

nevermind, found it:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...rt=#entry144770

:-)

does anyone have a wiring layout for the wires which go to the OEM 4-channel amp (M490) in the front trunk?

This is for a 2002 non MOST car

I actually only need to know which of the wires is ground (I am trying to eliminate a ground loop)

Thanks

Chris

I'm interested in finding one of the Bose Base Box rear deck speakers to add to my 2000 Boxster but I've had little luck finding one or even getting many hits on Google searches about them. Does anyone know a part number, official name or anything else I can use to search for one of these?

unless you already have a Bose amp they won't do you any good

We get a lot of requests regarding display images (Porsche crest) for the nav/dvd units, so we going to design screen logos for everyone to use in their Porsche. Check back in a week or so & we'll have it posted for everyone!!!

Trieullionaire

Euro MotorSpeed

727-643-2207

Hi Trieullionaire,

I got your kit today, super fast shipping and from the look at it worth every dollar.

I think your kit will make my AVIC installation this weekend sooooo much easier :clapping:

Great job!

Chris

just for my own education (btw: I have a 2002S with IMS failure @ 51k miles currently in the shop, actually since almost 2 months as I am haggling with my extended warranty)

I found the following in the Bentley book:

2001 model year:

"To reduce timing chain noise, the intermediate shaft drive chain was converted from a roller type chain to a tooth type chain. This change also required modifications to the crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets and corresponding chain tensioners"

My understanding is that this is the actual change in engine design which is the root cause for the IMS failures.

This would also mean that 2000 and earlier Boxster models don't have this problem (Am I right or wrong?)

The bonus question then is: Starting with which year did Porsche fix this flaw, meaning from which year on should IMS failure no longer happen?

do you mean the CDR220?

The CDR220 has an AUX IN and you can order the whole adapter with cables and line connectors from Becker for less than US$20

Your car has a 7.8 DME, thus you do a 3.6 swap or if you are a bit more adventurous you can do a 3.8. Search under my user name, you will find a ton of info.

Are you 100% sure?

I would have sworn that a 2002 Boxster S has DME 7.2 and that DME 7.8 was introduced with model year 2003 with Variocam Plus.

In case I am right I'd guess that limits me to 3.4L engines - right?

in case anyone's interested:

quotes from Suncoast:

3.2L 2002 Boxster engine: $8.6k + $2.2k core charge

3.6L 2002 Carrera engine: $11.1k (including core)

many thanks :)

The 3.6 was in 2002-on 996, you reprogram the DME to the 996 maps, yes you need to space down the front motor mount and ideally the rear trans mounts., you can use your old exhaust but it is too small for the larger motor. Sunset porsche is the best place to source a new motor, they can give you the price with core, the total for the motor and core will be in the neighbourhood of $12-15k

Todd

The only adapters are spacers to lower the engine in order for the taller 996 manifold to fit under the engine cover.

Your car has a 7.8 DME, thus you do a 3.6 swap or if you are a bit more adventurous you can do a 3.8. Search under my user name, you will find a ton of info.

-Todd

Todd,

so I did quite some read some reading and research, I would appreciate if you had the time and could confirm my findings:

Again this is for a 2002 Box S with a 3.2L engine

1) a 3.6L (that's a 997 - right?) engine will just drop in

2) I'll have to re-program the DME so that it thinks it's a 997

3) I'll have to lower the engine mounts in order for the taller 996 manifold to fit under the engine cover

4) I'll have to use the headers from my old engine

5) no other changes needed

Bonus question:

so, since I currently have a 3.2L, Porsche will charge me for the engine AND the core.

Does anyone know how much the charge for the core is?

Thanks again

You can't put a 3.4 in your car. You would do a 3.6 or 3.8 swap. Read this site, it is all laid out. The 996 engine swap into a boxster is very simple as far as engine swaps go.

-Todd

Hi Todd,

actually I did, I spent a few hours on this site yesterday searching for "engine swap", "conversion" etc.

btw: during these few hours my admiration for your work and knowledge grew and grew and grew :) too bad you live far far away from here ;)

The parts that worried me in your DYI (2.5 -> 3.2) were that you obviously had to build a few "adapters" yourself.

questions:

a) why 3.6 instead of 3.4 ? I thought the 3.6 has DME 7.8 and won't work with a 2002 Box

B) any better search terms for this site, so I don't have to bug you anymore?

Thanks

too

So my engine died the famous "intermidiate shaft" death two weeks ago and my mechanic is currently debating with my warranty company...

Be it as it may, I need a new engine, and now I am of course considering a 3.2 -> 3.4 engine swap.

I read in several posts that it is very simple and straightforward but then I found a DYI on this forum which made it sound more like, yes you can do it, but it's not a straight fit: you need to re-program the DME, several parts on the 3.4L 996 engine are on the wrong side, you need to change the wiring harness, etc.

So I was wondering if anyone here

a) actually did a 3.2 -> 3.4 swap and can share experiences (the DYI was for 2.5L -> 3.2L)

B) anyone has another set of DYI instructions

btw: I have a 2002 Boxster S

Thanks

Hi Toby,

this is a very late response to your question.

I had the same problem as you and replacing the lid of the brake fluid reservoir did the trick for me...

I have been having issues with my brake fluid light since I got my car 2 years ago. It lights up during my AX and DE runs, particularly when I engage ABS trail braking into a corner. I understand that it's due to fluid sloshing around the reservoir. The pedals have always felt fine, so I tend to ignore it. (The light always turns off when I cycle the ignition.)

In the past 2-3 events, in addition to the brake fluid light, the "PSM off" fault also comes on. The car will continue to run without problem, and the both lights will extinguish when I shut off the car after my session.

(I remember the "PSM off" fault also (first) came on when I spin the rears a lot trying to get up an icy slope.)

What's going on? Is it just PSM getting confused thinking it need to engage with a low brake fluid level, so it throws the code? Is it something more serious?

I have a 2001S with PSM. I use Toyo RA-1's and Pagid Yellows on track.

Thanks,

Toby

Hi,

I installed a Bose rear speaker, most of my findings are covered here:

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9349

One day I'll write a comprehensive summary

Cheers

Guys,

I have just purchased a Bose rear subwoofer system and want to install it into my 98 boxster, I have done a search but cant find anything specific to my enquiry

the specification in the car at the present time is as follows

Becker Traffic Pro headunit

Becker Siverstone CD changer

Front and door speakers only

2 channel amplifier

In addition to the Bose system i have purchased a 4 channel amplifier, my questions are as follows:

1. Assuming the 4 channel amplifier is a straight exchange for my old 2 channel amplifier does the input lead from the head unit just connect in or does it need modification

2, Is the output lead from the 4 channel amplifier to the speakers different from the output to the existing 2 channel amplifier, I'm hoping it is so I can then get a wire made up to link the amplifier to the Bose system,

I hope that makes sense to all.

Any help as usual is appreciated

hope i don't get blasted for replying but I just had these codes and mine was related due to a cracked seal in the oil filler cap...

So check your oil cap and the cap for the petrol first.

Hi,

some more info:

* when you connect the iPod through the AUX port of the CDR-220 all you get is the sound, no info on the display, and the iPod does NOT get charged

* I simply have the iPod in one of the storage cubbies, an alternative would be to make a looooooooong cable and store the iPod in the storage bin between the seats

* Becker is selling an adapter which has the connector which goes to the back of the CDR-220 on one side and the RCA connectors on the other side, so no soldering needed, it's fairly cheap I got it from Becker USA for about $20, of course I have no idea how to get it in Greece

Good luck

Christopher

:lightbulb:

Hey,

I have a Porsche 2.7 Boxster 2001 equipped with Becker CDR 22 audio system. As I am getting tired of having a gazillion cds in the car I would like to connect my i-pod and I would appreciate it if you could tell me what my options are.

I asked Porsche in Greece and they quoted a rediculous price of 1,000 euro. I also checked with shops specializing in stereo equipment for cars and they gave me a price of about 250-400 euro which sounds more reasonable.

Where is the i-pod connected? Is there a special case/holder which is mount on the central console as a docking station for the i-pod (something similar to the docking station for a mobile phone) or is the i-pod free standing somewhere in the car? Also how do I operate the i-pod? Do I have access thru the Becker system or do I access its functions directly from the -pod?

Thanks for the help,

Ibro

Do a search here and you will find many ways to do it yourself.

If you are real crafty you can do it for as little as $2.

Find an RCA cable with the Phono plug and cut off the RCA ends. Solder the Copper wires together, strip and put on some small connectors and connect them to the back of the stereo. Of course you will need the stereo removal tools. It took me about 1 hour to have mine hooked up and working great. Don't forget to get your radio code first if you don't have it. Here is an attachment for the 220 i don't know if this is exactly the same connections but like i said do a search and you can get it done for less then a quart of oil!

I guess you'll find all your answers here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11577

Cheers

Hi,

I have the BOSE Rear Deck, I know bose speakers run at 2 OHM so can I use ANY amp that is capable of running at 2 Ohm to power them?

Also has anybody completely upgradeds all the BOSE speakers in the rear ddeck to better after market speakers ?

Thanks. :)

You are soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo right it sounds like crap and has NO volume.

Basically I have to adjust the fader to "5" to get some sound, but then the front speakers sound like crap too :(

I need an amp....

@ ChrisZang been there done that (4 ohms per side) and it sounds like cr*p really p*ss poor volume for some reason.

plan b for me is fit an amp.

steve

Hi Thomas,

I also just bought a Bose rear speaker system on eBay to replace my stock (cubby) speaker system.

I just took the whole thing apart and looked at the wiring. And what I found is really weird:

The Bose box has two sets of speakers

1.) two tweeters, 3 Ohm each

2.) two drivers for the subwoofer, 1 Ohm each

The weird thing is that the two tweeters are connected parallel and the two subwoofer drivers are connected parallel.

Well, the connector out of the Bose unit has only four wires.

That means if you hook up your original wire then you will have the following effect:

One channel (dunno if left or right) will be connect to the two tweeters

The other channel will be connected to the subwoofer.

In simple words you will hear the left channel in high and the right channel in low (or the other way around), not exactly Hi-Fi.

To make things worse as each pair of speakers is connected in parallel now the tweeters are total 1.5 Ohm and the subwoofer 0.5 Ohm

Several conclusions:

1.) The Bose cable (from the head unit or Bose amp) has different wiring than the stock Porsche cable

2.) If you hook the Bose box up with the stock Porsche cable you will hear something, but I am pretty sure it will sound like crap

3.) If you hook the Bose box up with the stock Porsche cable sooner or later your head unit or amp will overheat and fail as the impedance of the Bose sepakers is WAY to low.

So here is what I will be doing:

* rewire the speakers (as suggest in this thread) that one tweeter and one woofer are in line each.

* rewire the cabling to the connector so that I hear left in the left speakers and right in the right speakers

Unfortunately I have to go on a business trip tomorrow but I'll keep posting about my little project as it goes along.

to be continued ....

I haven't test drive it a lot after the swap, since it is already snowing in Canada and the car already in storage. I find it the base is a bit better than my previous rear speaker system, but I need to spend more time on it to compare the different. The Bose system size is identical to my previous speakers system, my previous system is a factory storage chasis with 2 speakers on each side and there are sliding dorrs on the center.