evansaero

For the next person that needs to remove their factory radio. If you don't have the special key you can remove the center stack and push in on the tabs from behind. 1. remove side covers with putty knife. Held in only by tabs. 2. remove plugs from back of covers 3. unscrew 4 torx screws one at each corner 4. pull out entire unit and unplug the back 5. once removed take unit to bench and turn over and on the side of radio slide putty knife in to remove radio. Hope this helps someone else when they don't have the keys

Thanks, I will do some looking around.

OK I have searched for the past hour and searched on rennlist. I saw a post some time back about making home made removal key for the becker. I don't have time to go by one and my car is apart as I started working on other things Is there a DIY Trust Me I Suck a SEARCHING. :cursing: Flame away :huh:

don't be frightened... Buy a good warranty. It's good insurance. Bought a C4 4 months ago as I did not want to pay for the 02+ model, but I had to have a good warranty. Love the car and I am haapy to have it :drive: and I don't have to worry until 09' You can get real good deals on the 99-01 models because of articles like this. I think that's the 5th one I have read on it.

Update: Bleed findings 1) Found that old brake fluid was light green in color, not the DOT 4 color that I put in 2) Yes there was some air in each line. 3) In some of the line there was a milky white fluid coming from rear brakes (what is that?) 4) Stoping distance was decreased, just need new brakes now. Didn't have the wife around so I used a 2x4 to hold brake in while bleeding each line.

Just did my flush on Monday... Yes there was air in the system after I finished, which caused my coolant temp to fluctuate. On one of my coolant line it has a clear indicator that allows you to see if air is in the system when running. The way I fixed this problem way by opening the bleed value, then start car and warm up completely with A/C on then raise RPM's to 4 grand and hold it there for 1-2 minutes. What I saw was the coolant temp drop from the middle of 0 to the left side of 8. I then added more coolant and repeated one more time. Took the car on a 1 hour drive yesterday and the coolant temp was in the middle of the 8, it stayed there and did not move. With the older coolant I defiantly noticed that the temps would move around a lot more

D man, Thanks for the info. :cheers: Pads are porsche oem. They might need to be replaced being thta I'm not sure when or if they have been replaced. Just looking at the pads (eye-balling)I would say I have about 1/4 inch left maybe a little more I went out the day before I wrote this thread and really worked the brakes hard. I thought the same thing, but brakes just don't have the stoping power they should have. I'll update this after I bleed.

Drained fluid about 1 month ago. Don't have power bleeder so I did not flush. Pads and rotors haven't been changed, Pads and rotors look good but have not measured them. No ABS faults on dash, had the PST2 hooked up last month and it ran its full system test and found no faults. Is there a way to bleed brakes without buying the power bleeder? Thanks Guys I guess I'll start with flush then pads then rotors. Hope one of these will fix it

It seems that my cars anti-lock system kicks in early and now take longer to come to full stop. The car takes way to long to stop. The car has braking its just that the antilock system is causing it to increase the stoping distance 2x. I tried the same stop in a different car at the same speed and the p-car took 2x the distance. Also when parking in a stall with the wheel turned and apply some brake, say 30% braking power the anti lock system kicks in. I know there is something wrong, but not sure what.

Big part, your tires I just changes mine and it made a world of difference.

:censored: Thanks Loren :cheers: **** it... I hate when I'm wrong, Whats worse is I knew it :cursing: :help: At least I don't have to drive so far when i find a new shop :cheers: I really need to calm down, because I'm about to do something I might regret :soapbox: :soapbox: :soapbox: :censored: :censored: :censored:

Had the service mgt tell me that the trans rattle in normal and that the techs test drove and could not find anything wrong. The TSB had been done on the car Now what? They think its normal and they are the ones that did the clutch and flywheel job. This noise was never there before. Yesterday they said the front diff was leaking now they say its not??? WTF

Sorry to hear about the car I would give these guys a call... Lufteknic 804-359-9393 www.lufteknic.com I droped by there shop to see if I wanted to use them in the future. It seems that most people like me come to them after we get pissed off at the dealers.

I know, I know :unsure: I might just be Crazy. It's said that doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results is a sign :eek: Friday is F-day. Final Day We will see, They keep telling me they will do whatever it takes. They said that after the first service to. I have a back-up plan with a specialist, but want to make them fix what I have paid them for.

Thanks Loren, I know you guys got to have better things to do than type a page of words Again thanks Question Would you agree that TSB 3005 pertains to MY00? They lub the clutch pedal the first time. No fix Funny Thing is :censored: When I had the flywheel and clutch replaced I asked them to verify that TSB 3041 (07/00) had been completed and if not replace. That was the first time it was in the shop and they never did it. I was driving and had a loud band in the car and then it won't drive(stuck on the side of the road) :cursing: Had it towed to The Company and found a clip broke off the clutch. Again I asked if they would verify that the TSB 3041 had been done and again they did not do it. That was the second time

Good luck with your dealer, some extended warranties do not pay for certain items, make sure yours do, TSB's can only be printed and downloaded by contributing members, trust me a small donation is worth every cent in the information you will get from this web-site, furthermore I think all members of this forum should contribute at least $20.00 to keep the best Porsche forum alive and well. I am a contributing member :cheers: Thanks for the the support My warranty does cover all items listed above. Place where I am getting it done is the problem.

Well after 3 weeks of my car being in the shop I got it back, the problem is that 6 out of 14 items were not even completed and 2 others were not complete to my satisfaction. When I came back in after going over the car I handed the keys back to the Rep and told him that I will not take this car back. Then the GM step in and we sat down for about a hour. This is the second time the car has been in the shop for a total of 6 weeks and some of these items were never fixed the first time. None of the items are big jobs, I just want to get the annoying items fixed The car is a 2000 C4 6 speed Now I have to take it back on Friday and sit down with the master tech 1. I wanted them to fix the suspension creaks when going over speed bumps and driveway. They could not find the problem. Is there a TSB? I didn't see one 2. Front Differential has oil seeping. Fix was them to wipe it off and see if it happens after the car is driven longer Would you say this is right? Why not just replace the seal 3. Clutch Squeak when pressing down on pedal. (2nd time for this being looked at) No fix. Said this is what old cars do. I stated TSB 3005 Dated 9/8/00 and mech said this was not for this car. 4. Had clutch and flywheel replaced and after running the car around town you hear a rattle under the engine when the car is in neutral with clutch pedal out. Goes away when you press the pedal back in. Car did not do this before the replacement Is there something I can do to make them fix it? 5. Buzzing noise or whining noise coming from engine area when in car just after car is started. Goes away when I start driving it. Sounds like a regulator. They did not hear anything. I have a 3rd party warranty, I'm going to sit down with the GM, service mgt, and their master tech on Friday to go over these items and the others that did not get even looked at and see what when wrong. After adding up what they did it looks like they spent 2.8 hours working on the car. This took 3 weeks and my car has 500 miles on it now. If there is no resolve I will at a later time post the name of the company so that no one else gets service like this. If anyone has answers for the list above it would help me greatly when I go in on Friday and disuse the issues at hand. I also can't seem to print the TSB. Is there a way? Thanks Aaron

Nice...Very nice

Thanks

This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Adjusting parking brake. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.

Talked to the service mgt today. He stated that a spring was what caused the problem with the trans. He stated that the clutch, flywheel and trans were all in good condition. I asked how did this happen and he stated that when they installed the flywheel and clutch that they didn't reinstall it right. What spring is he talking about? He really could not explain it to me. He said he needs to talk to the mech more about it, but stated that the test drive went well

Well, Went and talked to the service mgt... He can't even get the car into the service bay. The car will not move anymore. Had the car flat bedded up and after they took it off the car is stuck. Looks like it's going to be awhile before I see her agian I gave him a big list. Wet sand scratches Clutch squeal Car creaks when going up a driveway and over bumps slow. Engine oil is over filled (was like this when I received car from last service) Purge Air Fan does not work. Front Differential has oil seeping Right sun visor broke off Buzzing noise from engine just after starting engine goes away once car is moving. Sound like a regulator 4 Wheel Alignment TSB 3041 Dated: 07/00 regarding replacement of the actuator lever for the clutch (insure completion) :lightbulb:

That's what I figured... Thank God for warranty Thanks Loren

Just had the car flat-bedded to the dealer which is about 1 hour away. Was pulling into my community and in 2nd gear I rounded the turn, I started to accelerate and then a "Loud Bang" that scared the CRAP out of me. As it happened I let off the gas and cont' to coast, after I saw that no warning light or that the engine was not on fire I tried to accelerate. Nothing, only thing was increase of RPM's with no acceleration. As I was coasting it sounded like my Trans was being draged behind me or maybe a couple rocks in the trans. I pulled over and car ran fine so I turned the car off and :unsure: Started the car back up to see if I was crazy.. Car idles normal Clutch in or out no noise All gears and R no acceleration "RPM's rise only" When car is stoped no noise from rear end Car had Flywheel and Clutch replaced by dealer 800 miles ago Before I get the dread call. What should I be prepared for?

It was covered, but questions kept coming up about the 5000+ hours on a 50000 miles 00' P-car. It's all in my head I know :help: With the car you give an example with the the air bag miles per hour are almost dead on with my cars engine miles per hour, but the air bag is way off and I mean way off. 61041/2109=28.9 (Your car example) air bag *Close match 50025/5473=9.14 (My car) air bag Does not make since (It's all in my head) Dam't I can't get it out of there :wacko: 50025/1575=31.7 (My car) engine *Close match So yes the engine and DME do not look like they have been changed, and yes you had the answers right on rennlist. Thank you :cheers: It's not that I did not trust what you were saying it's that I didn't have enough info for myself and I want to learn more about how these cars work. So that I can some day give an answer thats not BS... You giving me the example of the boxster on renntech helped me a lot to understand what was replaced and what was not. On Rennlist you did not have the boxster example. So again thank you :renntech: