evansaero

Sorry to hear you got screwed..

Those guys SUCK big time. There are a lot of reports like yours on rennlist about those jerks.

I would NEVER buy anything from LA Porsche dismantler. Let others be Warned

I heard good things about these guys

Custom fit Wetokole

Airbox

HI,

Congrats on your new P-car... Looks just like mine expect mine has a 4 on the back. One of the best cars I have ever owned, just plan on having 1-2 thousand a year in maintenance costs.

1) How do you know this? Instead of replacing first which is not cheap ($350) Try taking it out and using some contact cleaner. That should do the trick

3) IMPO I did the 3.6 MK II Mod. It's very close to the real PSE that porsche sells for $1500-2000 but only cost me $70. Sounds great. Check out Rennlist and search for the PSE mod and read about it. Won't give you any more power but does sound 10x better.

4) IMPO not really worth it, but other will say different. Do a search and you will have a better idea of what works best for you. It really is hard to get more power out of these engines.

The best mod for the price is a SSK I like the B&M should be able to find it for $199

Drive safe and enjoy

Aaron

I hope you have time... I would take the deal the dealer is giving

You should go over to Rennlist and see how long its take to off load 996 these days.

I won't even say how bad prices are right now

Good luck

Smoke= AOS would be my guess

Squeak= Take belt off and start the car. Does the noise go away? If so it could be an Acc or pulley

If noise does not go away, remove the oil cap and run the car. If the noise goes away then its the AOS

Temp= The weather has been getting warmer. I say normal, but like others say clean the Radiators

Enjoy your new toy :cheers:

I also added nav and it makes the straight roads not so boring anymore

Brown wire with blue stripe on the left side of unit

Cut it and tape it off Do not ground it

EGR Valve is right above the alternator. The valve has an electrical connection to it and it also has a soft rubber hose that conects to the throttle body.

If you need to see if the ticking is coming from the EGR valve have the car running and disconnect the electrical connection.

It is normal when you here the ticking from the EGR valve. The EGR does this and does not need to be replaced

You can buy it at autozone, or similar company

Link to Seafoam

I have this up on rennlist but thought some of you might not go there.

Just did the cleaning through the vacuum line.

I let it sit for 7-8 min and used about 1/2 the can. The car just sucked it right up.

Not that much smoke, I guess it's because I rev the ***** out of her every day.

There is 1 improvement that I saw.

1. Engine running just a little smother. Back fat jiggle and RPM's confirm this.

I have used Techron and never saw this kind of improvement

My idle oil pressure went down 1-2 ticks. From 1.8 to 1.6 Not really sure why that is???

I'll have to see if fuel mileage improves after I finish the full tank of gas I have.

In the end I’m happy with the initial results

About to use seafoam and don't know which vacuum line to use.

Does anyone have pictures??

Thanks

Aaron

If you notice my squeak is also engine speed related. It is coming from the trans. I just haven't had time to take it in

Mine only happens when cold. Goes away after driving for a few mins. I have done all the same test as you. Belt, let engine warm up without moving,clutch,gear change.

Sorry I guess this doesn't help, but know that I feel your pain

Does it go away when the car is warm.? If so if you let it set to warm up does it go away or do you have to drive it for it to go away

Could it be the Trans?

Viper501- I thought the bose system didn't come out until 01'

I guess it's the same as the bose home audio.

When looking at a system I asked a couple questions and the snooty bose man said "We don't give out that info"

MY answer was "well then :censored: "

Reminds me of Sony :offtopic:

I found this

There are probably two reasons to NOT use anti-seize compounds:

(1) Some experienced mechanics feel that it is then easy to overtorque and pull threads.....my answer is that one should be using a torque wrench, AND lowering the official torque (which is usually for use withOUT antiseize compound).

(2) Since the use of popular antiseize compounds acts like a lubricant, the applied torque MUST be reduced...about a 1/3 reduction is roughly correct. SOME manufacturer's are concerned.......with HEAT conduction....probably feeling that the heat range of the spark plug is changed by the use of the compound. I have NOT seen this in real life situations. I have always used some sort of antiseize compound on my own spark plugs...and I have close to 530,000 miles on airheads. I've NEVER 'pulled' spark plug threads out of a cylinder head.

Antiseize compounds vary in characteristics, but I have found NONE that are NOT OK at the spark plugs. ONE thing you do NOT want to do is use OIL!!!...and that includes WD40.....these will carbonize, and cause thread damage over a long period of time.

NOTE: ONCE antiseize is used, it tends to work its way into the aluminum head metal....from that point on, it is best to use antiseize.

Spark Plug Change Instructions, How to change your spark plugs by Loren has it in bold on the DIY page

I'm sure he has the scoop on this

I took my 05 Cayenne V6 (12K miles currently) to the dealer recently and reported that when braking from highway speeds the steering wheel vibrates. Dealer identified the cause as brake rotors are glazed from heat.

Is the repair/replacement of the brake rotors covered under warranty?

It better be!!!!

Had that same type of prob (warped rotors) with the wifes lexus rx 15000 miles and they replaced all defective rotors, no questions asked

Do not use any anti-seize or any other lubricant on the plug threads!

It's kind of nice getting to know one's car a little better... :cheers:

Did you try the felt pad for the sunroof?

Did you have any oil leaks from the o-rings spark plug tubes? I found I had 4 out of 6 tubes leaking, and it looked like the small rings were no longer round and were kind of flat.

Where did you buy your parts? I spent way more than $100 for the Spark plugs ($83) alone, Fuel filter, and oil alone...

Has anyone see them fail or go bad?

anyone ever clean them?

I don't think mine are bad but I pulled one out to see what type of condition it was in.

I was unable to get the other rt front one out. its' suck in there

It has Crap all over it

The cans themselves are compatible/interchangable, but the pipes that bolt to the cans (on the output side) and extend to the rear bumper are different on 99-01 and 02+ as the bumpers changes and the position of the tips changed. Therefor, you have to use the tailpipe pieces from the arlier years on early years cars. If you look in PET they actually show different tailpipe pieces/part numbers for 00, 01, 02, 03 and 04. but the 99-01 have the same rar bumper/outlet position, starting in 01 the rear bumper was changed.

Also, now that I remembrer it, the support backets on the earlier cars (996.111.227.02-left and 996.111.228-02-right through 01 and 996-111-237.02-Left and 996.111.237.02-right for 02+) are also different, the bolt patterns is slightly different, so when I put the new PSE cans on I had to change the brackets that attached the cans to the carriers on the engine. The attachment to the cans is the same so the brackets can be interchanged.

I thought that was what you were talking about. I just don't call them pipes. Sorry

You are right about the brackets

Really all you have to do is put your old tips on and change out the brackets and bolt it on. So really there is no catch at all :D

Hate to disagree with ScottArizona, but the tips and pipes on the exhaust side of the 3.6 cans won't work on a 99-01. Thre rear bumper was reconfigured and the tips are in a different location. I know this becuase I found a set of 3.6 PSE's on Ebay (about $500) and installed them on my 00 C4Cab. I used the old tailpipe sections from my 3.4 exhaust on the new cans, they work fine and fit perfectly. I sold my new tailpipe pieces to another member that had a 3.4 PSE he was putting on a newer car. So you can use the 3.6 cans, but will have to reuse the older tailpipe pieces on a 99-01 car.

Not really sure what you mean?

Are you saying the tips are different?