klueless7571

I'm considering a 2004 GT3 with 30,000 miles on the clock. The DME reading follows. The range 1 revs says 65535 (2^16) and that looks like the limit of the computer's memory. I know these are the type 1 over revs and should be safe, but is that still too high? Does that indicate this car's been tracked? Anything else you guys notice about these readings?

Derek

GT3 DME Vehicle data

Number of ignitions, range 1

65535 667.1 h

Number of ingitions, range 2

--

Operating hours counter

789.0

Vehicle Identification Nr.

WP0AC29984xxxxxxx

Type ID DME control unit

0996GUS01

Order type

996810

Country code

C02

Engine type

9679

Transmission type

G9696

Transmission number

2002852

Radio/PCM code

0000

Body color/convertible top color

12H0L

Interior equipment

490

Number of programming operations

2

Navigation system

0000

Total distance

047364km

There's also this one from a Porsche Dealer in California, also with PCCB.

http://www.getauto.com/autolinks_cardetail.html/adid-20407144/e_dealer_id-/inventory-/x_dealer_id-&pageval=autolinks_sr_ad_detail&consumer_map_id=15471&consumer_id=15471&some_id=20407144&type_code=AD

Derek

How about this one on ebay? Pictures look like PCCB, but the options list photo near the bottom doesn't list PCCB. Also, why does it say Orient Red, when the options list says Yellow?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/996-Very-RARE-15k-Miles-LIKE-NEW-Speed-Yellow-WOW_W0QQitemZ230460628459QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item35a8861deb#vi-contentgigamovesId

Thanks for any feedback!

Derek

They claim 45000 miles ... Very fishy indeed ... I'll stay far away from that one.

Thanks Guys!

Derek

Really? I thought PCCB was an option

Derek

This seems like a good deal for a 2004 GT3. Has anyone dealt with Windy City Motorsports before?

http://windy-city-motorsports.ebizautos.com/detail-2004-porsche-911-gt3-used-4682625.html

Derek.

I'm considering a 2003 996 C2 Cab and I'm looking to get a PPI done on the car. The car is in Deer Park, NY and I'm in Vancouver, Canada so I am looking for recommendations for either an indie mechanic or a reliable Porsche dealer (is there such a thing?).

Thanks in advance.

Derek

I'm on my second OEM Porsche battery from the dealer on a 2002 Boxster S. My p-car is a daily commuter, about 35-60 km per day. I hook up a batter charger to it once every few months, and I never let the battery drain to zero. I have been trying to top up the charge for the past week, charging with a CTEK-3300 for about 9 hours each night. I've not gotten the full charge green light to come on yet. The car still starts fine, but the CTEK just doesn't show green. Battery acid tests OK.

My wife's Lexus LS400 has an Optima deep cycle Blue Top and it tops up with the CTEK overnight without any problems. And she only drives her car on short trips a few times a week. Actually, the 5+ years old battery that was pulled from her car also tops up with the CTEK overnight. (I replaced the battery because another charger I was using couldn't fully charge the battery!) The cranking time to start her car is noticeably shorter, and the headlights don't dim during cranking (daylight running lights) like with the previous battery.

I think it is more than simply having the battery last twice as long. Optimas give peace of mind. Looks like I'll be replacing my battery soon, and you bet it is going to be an Optima. I'll check if the Costcos here in Vancouver have the special as well. Thanks for the heads up rlim.

Derek

Do they really require you to do an oil change every 6 months? Maintenance schedule says change every 24000km with 9 litres of Mobil 1.

Derek

anybody knows how the coolant bleeder valve is supposed to work?

Derek

I'm about to replace the coolant in my 2002 Boxster (I mixed green coolant into the system when the light started blinking). I've already replaced the 2 O-rings in the coolant bleeder valve, and the coolant cap to the .01 version because I was loosing coolant (tank is still intact). However, I noticed that the coolant bleeder valve is held open all the time due just from pressure within the system. The only way to shut the valve is by opening the coolant cap to release the pressure. The little metal wire is always in the closed (horizontal) position. However, after I run the car, pressure within the system pushes the valve opened again and it stays that way even after the car cools overnight. Is this normal? or do I need to replace the coolant bleeder valve?

Derek

Well, actually, neither plug looks that great to me!! Your left hand plug looks like you may have some coolant (brown fluffy)..the right hand one looks like it is detonating cold...how old and how many miles on the plugs?

85000 km (53000 miles). These are original plugs. I've got a set of new Bosch plugs I could put in, but I don't think the plugs are the root of my misfiring problems :(

Need help!! I've been trying to pull my oxygen sensor off for half hour now and it seems that it is stuck from the connector. Is there a proper way or technique on how to remove it from the electrical connector? Thank you

Just press the release on the connector (red circle on attached photo) and pull down. Photo shows passenger side O2 connector before the catalytic converter.

Derek

I would still pull those two plugs and have a look at them.

Check the coil pack and cables while you are there.

Update on misfire cylinder #1:

About a month ago, I removed coil pack #1 and #3 for examination. They both looked fine, so I swapped them around, put original #3 into #1 and vice versa. Nothing changed in the misfire status. I'm still getting bad misfiring on cold starts after the car sits for a few hours. Rough idle lasts for about 30 seconds then it is smooth again. Durametric confirms that cylinder #1 is still the one that's misfiring.

So today I finally have time and pulled a couple of plugs to have a look today. I removed them after the car sat for 24 hours. The attached photos show plug from cyl #3 on the left and #1 on the right. I don't know what to make of these so I'm hoping for some opinion from those familiar with diagnosis by looking at these plugs.

I should also say, I have been loosing coolant mysteriously so I'm hoping it isn't a blown head gasket or a crack. I've got the new updated coolant cap, and I don't see any fluid in the trunk floor or behind the passenger seat under the carpets. I do smell coolant during start ups. I don't see any steam or dripping under the engine area. I would say I've lost 2 litres of coolant in the last 2 months, maybe 5000 km of driving.

Suggestions?

Derek

Your problem is rather difficult to narrow down. If it was me, I would start with disconnecting the battery cable, and running a direct cable from the alternator to the battery. Hopefully, the voltage at both ends would be identical. Let the car run for 30 minutes. When everything is warm, see if the voltages still check out OK. My guess would be "yes". If some of your other accessories are draining too much power, and your alternator is not providing sufficient output, you would be able to tell by measuring the voltage at the alternator. If you have an amp meter, you could measure the amps that's going directly to the battery through the new temporary cable, and the amps going to the rest of the car. End of test.

If all your measurements are good, then at least we know that your alternator is good and providing sufficient output for your accessories. Then the next step would be to disconnect the power cable, section by section, and examine and replace as necessary. I wouldn't be able to help you there, as I have no clue as to where and how the cable is routed.

Good luck!

Derek

I thought you wanted to test if the cable was the source of your problems. Hence, disconnect the existing cable, and run a different cable from the alternator to the battery to see if your problem still exists. Why do you even need to connect up the volt meter? You already know there is a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery in your current setup. The mysterious voltage drop is the reason we are going through this whole exercise. Unless I misunderstood your problem description...

Derek

Well, you need to disconnect the existing cable to the battery. Then run your temporary cable from the alternator to the battery. You cannot just run your VMM because you'll fry the meter. There's a lot of current running through there. You've got to be careful not to short anything with your temporary cable. Use a continuous cable and make sure it is secured at both ends. If one end comes loose while your engine is running, it would not be a good scene.

Derek

BTW, http://www.autohausaz.com/ has great price on beru coil. I'll be picking mine up from them.

Why they sometimes crack is interesting. I thought it was due to the heat from the engine. Peter Smith thinks it is due from the heat generated from the coil itself.

Either way, it is pretty poor design on Porsche's part. This is a pretty simple and basic component that shouldn't be breaking down. Period! That felt better. Excuse me while I crawl under to examine my coil packs to see why I'm getting cylinder #1 misfire.

Derek

I should think 4 gauge or larger. You could get by with smaller if that's all you've got lying around. It's not as though these are permanent connections. If the wire starts to feel warm, just turn off the ignition and disconnect.

Derek

Pablo, try here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19860

Derek

My Becker was the same thing. Ended up replacing the head unit to a Pioneer BT9800, which improved things a bit, but not by all that much. I think the antenna in the windshield is not the greatest of designs. I've also had my windshield replaced, and the reception wasn't any better.

Derek

Are you able to run a different cable from the alternator to the battery? There should be no way to drop so much voltage. As a matter of fact, you should not be able to detect any voltage drop in this section of the circuit. If you say your connections are all clean and good, then it has to be a bad cable. I doubt there are any other problems with the rest of your devices. From the sounds of it, you've had a defective cable from day one.

Derek

What about for a 986? How to put the car up on jack stands? Where to put the jack stands? I've searched but can't seem to find any reference.

Derek

Hi Everyone,

I have a 1999 Boxster that is not leaking any coolant, but it seems as though the coolant reservoir needs topping up quite often. The coolant is not leaking from anywhere either. Does anyone know what this problem can be? Should I have the coolant system flushed out? Could the coolant to water ratio be off? I only use Porsche Coolant. The car has 115000 KM (75000 Miles). I'm not sure when the coolant should be changed and how often, I just bought the car recently and everything was topped up.

Anyway, if anyone can relate or help, then please let me know, thank you so much for your time and effort.

Sincerely,

Jon

Have you ripped out the carpet in the trunk and behind the seats to inspect for coolant residue?

Derek