spongebob

Hi,

P1126 is the only code on my 1999 Boxster. After I cleared the code, the same code always came back after driving around 50 miles.

Replaced MAF, air filter and even the O2 sensor, still didn't help.

I checked the hose at the bottom of the air oil separator and it seems is OK.

I ran out of idea. May be vacum leak somewhere? Anything else I should check?

Thanks.

Steve

Have you tested your AOS? While the car is running and warmed-up remove the oil fill cap... Is the cap difficult to remove? Does the idle drop and motor almost die? If so, the AOS is bad. Also look at your gas cap seal, does it have cracks like the one in this picture?

I do have some similar problems but mine is running lean at load and rich at idle.

Tried to remove the oil filler cap and there was a slight resistance. Engine did also run poor with the oil cap off.

Is this a sure sign of a failing AOS?

I do think that other cars ( non P) does show similar behaviour when the oil filler cap is off.

Before I go ahead with the full hack and add the fourth stalk can some one tell me if it is possible to have both metric and miles info in the OBC. So far I have only the temp reading and that is only possible to view in F and not C. Good anyway as I have it as a limit not to lower the top below 55F.

It would be fun to have at least one upgrade project this winter but if I cant have the metric info I need to source another instrument as a start

I did notice a change in the way the vibrations behaved when changing from base to "s" muffler.

Must be related someway, internal design is similar but maybe it was mounted slightly different

A lighter muffler would put less stress on the rear tranny mounts giving them more room for absorbing vibrations instead.

Do you have any idea where this baffel was positioned inside ,must trie it as I have run out of ideas .

Some have cured the problem by welding a baffel inside the muffler. In fact I had the same problem but it was gone after I put on an aftermarket exhaust system.

I would say that this is not the normal way an engine should behave today,absolutely not a Porsche engine at least.

But from what I have read on several forums and from my own experience I would say that it is a wellknown fact that this happens, especially on 2,7 engines ( my own theory is the longer stroke here)

Variocams adjust earlier and later but not at 3000 rpm. Only thing that happens at 3000 is that the resonance flap moves in the air intake system.

I will not be cured by new engine mounts but probably more difficult to notice after a change.

I have also tried a new DMF without the slightest difference.

I would say that this is not the normal way an engine should behave today,absolutely not a Porsche engine at least.

But from what I have read on several forums and from my own experience I would say that it is a wellknown fact that this happens, especially on 2,7 engines ( my own theory is the longer stroke here)

Variocams adjust earlier and later but not at 3000 rpm. Only thing that happens at 3000 is that the resonance flap moves in the air intake system.

I will not be cured by new engine mounts but probably more difficult to notice after a change.

I have also tried a new DMF without the slightest difference.

Hi,

I just used the durametric Diagnostic tool to take a look at over revs for my 2002 Boxer S (61,000 miles). The # of ignitions for range 1 is 32485/1255 hours. The # of ignitions range 2 reads out 1/57h operating hours 1758. First, does the 32,458 mean the rev limiter has been activated that many times? That seems extremely excessive. I bought the car in 2006, and rarely (I can remember maybe 1x) push it to 7000 RPM's. Second , does the range 2 # refer to how many times the car went into the red? So, in this case one time only at the 57 hour mark? The Durametric explanation would say one time for 57 hours which does not make any sense to me. Are any of the numbers cause for concern or further service or action on my part?

Thanks for your time, appreciate this forum very much,

Steve

I guess it is the same as the amount of sparks that has been blocked on the sparkplugs by the rev limiter

32485/6/7200= time on Range 1 meaning that the engine has approx 0.75 minutes at above 7200 rpm.

The range 2 seems to be a long time ago and I should not be worried about this as it is still working

My experience is that it is possible to reach range 2 just by accelerate to hard in first gear and miss the next gear, not only when downshifting in wrong gear.

Is it possible to see the engine adaption using durametric tool on a motronic 7.2 system

I guess that the timing is retarded by engine management if the knock sensors detects a ping but how to know and what values to look for?

Sometimes I get a feeling that my engine does not deliver all power it is supposed to.

I guess that power is down at least 30-40 hp now and then.

It does not matter if warm or cold outside.

The extra kick around 5000 rpm is not there all the time it just makes noise and does not deliver.

I need some input to find what can be wrong,no faultcodes found with durametric.

Is there some values that could be interesting to log and compare to find the problem?

Maf and throttle housing has just been cleaned.Clutch is almost new

My box is a 2000 2,7 with 55000miles on

I did this work a few years ago when a small stone cut right through one of the lines under the car.

All I remember is that it was an easy job in about an hour plus the vacuum testing and filling procedure .

Some of the plastic panels had to be removed I think.

The connections are very easy to take apart, just remember new o-rings and a new dryer filter

It's correct that the cluster cant show metric figures.

You need a metric one

I have the same problem myself

The rear converters are still there and making nice and clean air from my car.

But the ROW program eliminates the O2 sensors after the startup cat. Means no CEL if the startup converters are deleted

The only thing they do is to tell you that the converters are working or not and they dont exist on european p-cars

Im interested in what other problems I could run into if reprogramming.

Is there any problems involved when I change the DME programming to ROW settings.

The reason to do this is because I want to change the headers on my 2000 2,7 to a pair without catalythic converters.

Of course the car is now in Europe and wont cause any legal issues over here.

I just want a life without a cel tripped by the o2 sensors

Expecting to gain a few HP due to this headerchange and better fuel quality.

If this works im forever thankful!

I have been thinking of a lightweight flywheel as a next step on my way to a vibration free car but this is a little bit cheaper.

I also had some thoughts of hanging the muffler in the bottom of the car and use a flexible hose at the inlet to see if there where any difference.

When I changed to a "S" muffler I noticed that the vibrations immideatly increased in amplitude so it must be something in that area.

Did you think of readjust the inlet pipes after the correction also or is it unnecessary work?

This is very interesting and food for thought. At this point, since the complete exhaust system, muffler, cats, etc. are all suspended by the rear transmission/motor mounts, when removing the muffler some suspended weight is removed from the rear mounts. Maybe with soft or defective mounts, removing weight such as the muffler, will raise the rear of the engine/trans assembly up, keeping the mounts from being at a limit, therefore not transmitting a vibration? Just a thought.

I have quite a vibration as well.

Replaced tires, brakes, wheel bearings and had a 4 wheel alignment. Still no difference at all. And i have the extra muffler support.

If i drive say 85mph, put the car into neutral i still have the vibration. So what do i try next?

This is not the 3krpm vibration discussed earlier in this thread.

Your problem is probably somewhere at the wheels.

Try a "roadforcebalancing" at a reputable tiredealer, it's a big differance compared to the standard balancing.It made a big differance on my car.

I bought new tires a while ago (Bridgestone RE050 something) and two of the tires where impossible to balance in the roadforce machine. The first time it said nothing in a regular balancing. But the tires had to be replaced at the end.

I have had the same vibration on decelation at 3000 rpm. If you take off the muffler section of the exhaust it goes away. Placed an extra bracket on the muffler and it is still has the same vibration. It is something within the muffler itself on my Boxster...

I have similar experiences. When I disconnected the muffler and made a test run the vibration was gone. I can't tell if it "drowned" in the exhaust noise or if there where a real differance.

But when I take my car out of winterhibernation next spring I will do some tests whith flexible exhaust pipe and try to hang the muffler direct in the bottom instead of the gearbox.

This is the step before a lightweightflywheel!

I have a 2000 2,7.

There should probably be more metric 996 clusters out there than 986 ones.

Thanks Toolpants.

Will the cruise control work as it did before since the 2000 have E-gas?

Or to make it even better while i'm still into the subject, can I use a 996 cluster instead from the same MY:s

My 2000. I know that the redline doesnt match exactly but will it work electronically, OBC and everything else in there.

If your car is built for US market it had four when it was built. But otherwise it is possible that it only had two from the beginning which also makes it a little bit easier to modify (legally)

I have made business whith this guy two times.

First time went smoothly but the second time I received wrong decals.

I did send him several E-mails about this, even with photos on the wrong decal but never received an answer nor a correct decal.

Yes, it's a silly low amount of money but still...

And I could never give him bad feedback on E-bay either because he did hold his feedback until he saw mine. And I wan't a clear protocol on E-bay which I woldn't have had anymore if I gave him the feedback he deserved judjing to the earlier conversation.

Mike,

how did you mount the walmart speakers to the original dashmountings?

Don't know about your tires, but I too, have the infamous vibration that occurrs between 3-3500 RPMs. My money is on the motor mount. I'll probably have mine replaced under my extended warranty.

No tool is needed to remove your spark plug tubes. I simply inserted my thumb and pressed it against the inner wall and pulled. Every one came right out wihtout the need of any special tool. There are two 'O' rings per tube and both had flat spots along their entire circumference which I suspected was the cause of my oil leaks. The manual also calls for a special tool for inserting new tubes, but again, none is really necessary. I was able to exert more than enough force to pop them back into place.

Good luck,

Jeff

Had a Porsche mecanic to testdrive my car to day as I have done everything to get rid of this vibration around 3200 rpm and he just told me to sell the car or learn to live with it....

It's because of material mixture in the engine (steel and aluminum)I did not understand everything he said but it was something about the steel crankcase between aluminum cylinders that causes the vibration.

Although I still beleive I can fix this with a lightweight flywheel.

The clunk that you hear is probably the front motor mount and that can also be a cause of the vibration at approx. 75 mph.

When the engine passes through the 3000 rpm range it's not uncommon to have some resonance vibrations ,especially not with a worn out motor mount.

Bbut of course check the tires first.

Rich,

What was the diagnosis on your vibration at 3200 RPMs?

I have the same issue going on and the dealer tells me it is the DMF and want about $1000 to replace it. I am very leary of this and would like other's input on it...

I have a 2002 Boxster 2.7 with 30k miles. I had noticed a little vibration in the drivetrain when de-accelerating from around 4000 rpm. I mentioned this to the dealer during a 30k maintenance. A tech drove it and diagnosed a bad DMF. I had them change it. I got the car back and found a new and annoying vibration around 3000 rpm. This vibration occurred each time the tach hit 3000, even when there was no load. I took it back to the dealer, the service manager revved the engine to 3000, and noted the vibration. The next day, the dealer called and advised I needed a front motor mount. I had them do it. I got the car back, and it still had the 3000-rpm vibration. I returned the car to the dealer, they re-replaced the DMF, and installed a clutch kit. Still, there was noticable vibration at 3000 rpm. The dealer has requested advice from their support, I've been without the car for 5 weeks, and I'm a little worried.

I have the same problem.

I've done all the tricks that are mentioned on the boards

1. New front motor mount

2. New flywheel (and clutch)

3. Optional exhaust bracket

And none has made any differance at all

From what I have seen on all forums, this is a common problem whithout solution

I have no more ideas how to get rid of this and do not want to spend a fortune at the dealer

Really nice job, but where did you find instructions for this ?

I will get back regarding the flywheel, It was somewhere around 600 instead of 1000 at the dealer