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ocblubox

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Posts posted by ocblubox

  1. I just got my new front rotors from Automotion (Zimmerman rotors), and I see the "hats" aren't painted, like the ones from the Porsche dealers are supposed to be. Is there a good reason to paint them or is it a waste of time?

    Norm

    2001 Boxster, Seal Grey, manual

    I would paint them because I have the same ones & they have turned rusty & look horrible.

  2. i always hate trying to diagnose a funny noise from text, so i'll do my best to describe this. i'm just trying to get a list of ideas to help me find the source of this noise. as an FYI, two weeks ago i did the clutch, flywheel, axle rebuild, and exhaust. one week ago i was at the race track.

    the noise sounds a little bit like a helicopter in the distance; it's not very loud, but it is a little audible over my exhaust.

    it seems to come from the right rear of the car.

    it increases frequency with vehicle speed, NOT RPM.

    it ONLY occurs when the engine is under load (even a teeny, tiny bit of load).

    it does NOT occur when coasting in neutral, driving in gear under no load, or decelerating in gear under engine braking.

    it occurs in any gear.

    any ideas are appreciated; this is just a brainstorming exercise. thanks.

    Did you remove the exhauxt mainifold? I remember my 3 series BMW had a simialr sound when there was a leaking gasket on the manifold allowing the sound from the cams to come through

  3. Yes, they are correct.

    Hi,

    I have seen some replica alloys for sale second hand locally from a 996.

    The front have 225/40/18 tyres & the rears are 285/30/18 tyres.

    They are replicas of the sport techno style as fitted to the 987/997 models but designed for the 986/996 fitment. I do not know the offset or width.

    Do the replicas have different offsets between 986/996. The reason is I wonder if the rears will fit on a 986 boxster with the 285 tyres & what the maximum width of the replicas normally are?

  4. I found my rattle, and I killed it

    around the rear cat, on the side where it has the 70ish degree bend, there are 2 pieces of steel welded around the bend, these pieces float around the pipe and are only welded to the canister, using a rotozip and a metal cutting wheel I cut through the welds and removed these pieces, the canister and pipe are still 100% intact

    the weld on the inside of the bend (the smaller weld) was broken, and this is what would rattle as it heated up, now there's no rattle at all and the car sounds very different... I forgot what it was supposed to sound like

    Glad to see you sorted the problem. It also took me a while to figure out it was those shields

  5. 2002 box s

    so I've got a rattle, unmistakable metal rattling sound, that I can hear bouncing off walls and whatnot when accelerating or decelerating, but only when there's resistance (it doesn't happen in neutral when stopped, I can only hear it when moving and in gear)

    so I put the car up on ramps and thought I found the rattle in the rear most passenger side cat heat shield so I removed both the rear cat's shields, screws, and the clips they screw into

    turns out this was making some noise, but not the one I heard :(

    are there shields around the forward cats too? or maybe the headers? I haven't put the car back up to look but every time I drive I hear this and it's bugging me!

    There is a sleeve wrapped around the pipe of the cat that corrodes at the welds. I removed mine with tin snips after the OK from the OPC mechanic, otherwise it's new cats

  6. I hopped on ebay and TopsOnline.com has some Robbins tops with glass windows for $350... thats right sports fans... I only paid $350 and it was only an additional $400 to get it installed by a local installer. It was a great deal, and I am very very happy with the way it turned out.

    Where on EBAY did you look? I can only find Buy it now for $695

    I just took a look and you are right. Seems right now the cheapest you can get from them is $695. I guess these things are cheaper in the dead of winter when business is slow. I'm sure business picks up for them when spring rolls around and every starts getting their cars ready for summer. Supply and demand.

    I bought mine the first week of January and paid $350 from the user topsonline.com. As I recall, they had several others on there at that time and the buy it know was around $390. They were definitely cheaper a few months ago. Right now the only ones you can get on that price range are the ones with plastic windows.

    I guess keep checking back and hope those prices fall again... maybe end of summer or late fall.

    Lots of people don't like the sonnedeck because its not german. But trust me, the nationality of your canvas top won't bother you after you see it on there. It looks great, works great, and like I said... I think is much better than the OEM top that came with the car. It's definitely a quality top. I wouldn't hesitate to pay $700 or more for it.

    Does the new top with the glass window reduce the noise from outside over the OEM version?

  7. My poor car. 1997 with 60,000 driven by a little old lady for 8 years. I've had it for two months and everything is starting to rattle, squeak and creek in the suspension as I give it the drive it never had. Sounds like I may have a motor mount, strut bearings and others wanting to be relaced.

    But now I've got some serious "creeking" when the front end moves up and down over the road. You can even here it when I get out of the car now "creeeeeek", and I only way 190lbs...so it's not my fat ***!

    What are common "creek" locations on the 986, what bushings are hating life and will I be able to see this once I get it on a lift or are some of the culprits imposable to see their failure.

    Lower control arm with built in ball joint was the problem I had.

    The whole arm had to be replaced @ £120 for the parts. USD 200 ??????

    Also 1 hour labour I reckon

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