sprout99

On 6/4/2020 at 9:16 PM, DBJoe996 said:

This is NOT a part to go cheap on.  Only get a real OE Porsche window regulator.  I have heard and read many stories about cheap window regulators breaking after less than a year, cables snapping, grinding and so on.

Dont totally agree. 

I bought one with a two year warranty. 

It fits just fine.

It took a while to get it working because the window glass has to be adjusted right before the mech can be set up. Once you have slider end stops adjusted the cable tension needs a fine tune. 

To the OP. The microswitch in door handles is supposed to send a signal to drop glass 

Check they are working correctly 

Sadly it will be a door trim off for this

20 hours ago, Philip54 said:

 

Thanks for your confirmation. I was wondering if there is a way of re-tensioning the cable without replacing the all thing.  Also, I am still a little surprised  about the big reduction in the scratching noise when operating the window.  I believe that knowing what is causing the scratching noise can help deciding whether replacing the window regulator (assuming that the cable can be re-tensioned).

I bought a none genuine part as I needed it sorting In a hurry  so the adjustment maybe different. The oem equivalent part has cable tensioning screws in bottom corners. 

I think porsche version uses some retaining clips that allow the cable to be adjusted either side of the drive gear. 

If it works leave it. 

My cable snapped just after I'd arrived at an airport at the start of a business trip. 

I've changed a window regulator recently..... 

Horrible job! Fiddly getting it set up right. 

The cable tension does indeed need to be right for the window to drop. 

Pipe done, 

Evap canister and fuel filler needs to be removed. The smaller AC pipe needs to be disconnected and It's I fiddle to get pipe out. 

Found a split o ring but had planned to replace anyway. 

Took about 3 hours in total.

Changing a window regulator is way more horrible to do as a comparison 

Hi. 

The system has emptied itself through a hole in pipe caused by a bad mechanic jacking it up sometime previous to me owning it. 

I noticed it had a wet patch on the pipe a while back when I had it on a lift sorting out the exhaust seams. 

But it dumped a load of PAG oil with green dye on driveway last week. 

I dont believe I need bumper off just wheel and arch liner as the pipe union is in scuttle panel area not near the condensers

Just don't know if I need to remove the evap cannister and fuel filler. I think defo the first part. 

Mine is leaking from the damaged suction pipe 

Next to front jacking point. 

Is swapping pipe easy? 

Thanks Ian