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CosmosC4S

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Everything posted by CosmosC4S

  1. I got the mesh-screen from Home Depot. You can also get them from Lowe's. They're in a big roll at about $10 each.
  2. I paid $250 for the paintjob. As mentioned, I removed and installed the bumper myself.
  3. It's right here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75432
  4. The plastic mesh-screen mod that I did to the air-inlets when I last cleaned my radiators has made a huge difference. I took a peak in there and there is NOTHING accumulated so far! :clapping: Only issue is the hot-glue gave way at certain spots, probably due to the heat and high-speed wind-force, I ended up using fine zipties to secure the mesh-screens.
  5. Don't worry about the switch, you will love it with the modded sound. It isn't even loud enough to want it off at all. Infact, I modded my original cans, didn't even get a spare set to mod as most people did.
  6. Thanks Maurice! I think it's much easier on the Boxster than it is on the 996....? I've been told the dealer pulls the engine for the A/O separator job on a 996.
  7. I've been having a pretty consistent big puff of "White Smoke" on startup lately, eventhough the car's not been pushed hard prior to the last shutoff. The smoke clears up in seconds, and no signs of it till the next startup. Usually the ones that occur after a hard run would quit after a few days to a week, but this one's been stubborn. And the engine sometimes stumbles at startup, and needs a second try. Or it would stumble at startup idle until it "catches" and the rpm suddenly shoots up to where it's supposed to be. Anyway, I'm suspectiing it could be the Air/Oil separator. Called my independent mechanic, and he said if it was, that would be about a $900plus job! He said being a Tiptronic, it would need about 8hrs labor (2hrs more than a manual), and the part itself is only about $100+. Anyone done this before, and has any idea what the job costs? Is a DIY too complicated? Thanks! :cheers:
  8. I asked that same question before, and was told it will not fit.
  9. You are absolutely right, I was a little concerned too. There is a pretty good lip/stop at the end of the ramp on the back edge, about an inch or slightly more. It looks like it's good enough to stop a "roll" but if you step on it, I'm sure it will roll right over and OFF! I backed up slowly, and paid attention to the "feel" as the tires hit the top of the ramp. I was very gentle and steady on the gas, with my hands on the hand-brake lever, and I had my wife watching right behind the car. She was instructed to read out loud and clear to me, in inches, how far my tires were from the top of the ramp, and to yell STOP as soon as the tires rolled over onto the flat top surface. Then I let the car roll by itself back till the tires touched the lip/stop at the edge. Believe me, I did think about that, and it was a scary thought of the car rolling over the ramps! I stressed the importance of that to the wife, and she knew it was not an option for her to fail! :P
  10. PeterC4, that seems to be a very common issue with the remote keys, especially new ones. You can do whatever you want, follow the manual word for word, it will not work. Some dealers, apparently do not know how to program the new keys to work with the memory control unit under the seat. I had the same problem, old key works fine, new key sends the seat all the way back, all the way down. The dealer cannot program my new key remote right, and told me the whole memory control module needs to be replaced for $1000 with NO guarantee it will fix the issue. WTF??? Since then, I have read of several similar issues on the various sites. My indy says he has done a few with similar complaints, and he can fix that, I just haven't done it yet. Read my lips, There are some dealers that just DO NOT KNOW how to program the keys correctly!
  11. Izzy, I don't know if it makes a whole lot of difference, but I stick with OEM blinker fluid. It blinks smoother and quieter, and the reverse tilt function also swivels smoother as well. Worth the few extra dollars IMHO.
  12. I think the procedure is to have the gear in reverse, while you set the memory setting.
  13. Hey, that is a brilliant idea! :clapping: I never thought of that, that's your idea, right? I've never seen that in the manual. Thanks for the tip! :thumbup:
  14. wdonovan, any updates on the job? Did you do it, did it solve the problem, was it difficult, and how much did it cost? I am having consistent white smoke at startups nowadays, although they stop within a few seconds, until I stop and restart after it's been sitting for at least a few hours. Trying to decide if I can DIY, or should I send it to my mechanic. Thanks.
  15. You're welcome, skipp. I'm glad you found the cause. I can't help you with the part number. Go to your dealer parts counter, and describe it to them, they will find it on the system. It doesn't look like it will cost too much. Loren or the other guys might be able to help you with the part number.
  16. skipp...I shall make a guess. Check under the airbox. There should be 2 rubber inserts in the holes on the engine bay bodyframe, where the 2 "protruding" pieces of plastic stems under the airbox sit in to stay in place. Normally, when you remove the airbox, these pieces of rubber inserts/washers would stick to the plastic stems as you lift the box up, then they will fall off without you even realizing it. Without these rubber pieces, there won't be a tight snug fit, to dampen vibration or movement.
  17. I am leaning towards a bad A/OS too, been having huge puffs of white smoke at startup. At first it was only at cold startups, the other day, I had smoke at warm startup!? But the smoke stops pretty fast, in a few seconds.
  18. Ok, I ended up buying a pair of ramps from Walmart, after seeing some pics from Orient Express over at rennlist. I guess it gives me more peace of mind with the wheels on solid blocks. I did think of the ramps originally, but didn't want to buy them just for this project, and buy a floor jack and jackstands as well, which I will need for other projects. But I finally decided my safety is worth more than all those put together, besides, the ramps could come in pretty handy for oil changes. I didn't remove the wheels, I just chocked the front wheels, and applied the parking brake with gear selector in Park. And I was very surprised it only took me a whole 37 minutes to remove both mufflers! Well, actually it could be 35 mins, I had to go inside to get my eye goggles, and applied some eyedrops, got some dirt in my eyes in the process of the removal, but of course! The cans slid right off, downwards, with a little wiggling, I wonder if it could be due to the couple of extra inches on the widebody? Anyway, the only pain was the single nut towards the rear, that was in a really tight spot, I was turning barely 1/8 of a turn at a time! And I was surprised those cans are that Heavy! I couldn't imagine just by looking at the many pics that were posted. If you get rid of them, that's probably the equivalent of a 10HP gain! :clapping: So, tomorrow morning, I'm off to search for a surgeon...Oooh...can't wait. ;)
  19. I'm getting ready to jack the rear of my car up and place it on jackstands, leaving the front wheels on the ground. I will be working under the rear end, removing my mufflers, and I am wondering if it is safe to have the car inclined on one end. I expect some twisting and pulling with the mufflers, and am concerned with the stability of the car on the 2 jackstands on the rear end. I just want to have some reassurance from those of you who may have done this. I will definitely be choking the front wheels. Do I need to engage the parking brake? Does that help, or do those only affect the rear wheels? Perhaps I should also place some bricks or pieces of wood under the tires, just in case the car slips off the jackstands? Thank You All!
  20. Thanks Loren and wvicary. So, I should start by having the crankcase tested for high vacuum, for a possible bad AOS. If the AOS is fine, chances are that electronic thingie on the Throttle Body is starting to go bad? Btw, is the layer of oil mist on the walls of the plenum normal? They look like clean engine oil to me. What about that little drip of oil on the bottom edge of the butterfly? OR...another possibility...since I am also having this early symptoms of a bad ignition switch, is it possible that the bad ignition switch is affecting the proper functioning of the throttle butterfly at cold startup?? Sorry, I'm just wild guessing.... :unsure:
  21. So it's been 3 weeks since I cleaned the Throttle Body on my car. The idling has been fine at cold startup since then...until now. The weak idling at cold startup came back 2 days ago. The first time, it stalled right away, second try and it was fine. Then yesterday, it started with a weak idle, the symptoms are just as before I cleaned the Throttle Body. So I took everything off to check the Throttle Body again, As expected, it was still clean. The only other thing I could see in there was a layer of clear yellowish film of oil on the walls of the Plenum, and there was a tiny drop/drip of that too, collected on the bottom edge of the butterfly. Looks like engine oil to me, but it was clean and clear yellowish. I've read that it's normal to have a mist of oil on the insides of the Throttle Body and the Plenum, how much is normal? I didn't see any puddles whatsoever, but a rather "heavy" mist/layer on the walls, and of course the drop of drip on the bottom edge of the butterfly. Is that normal? I am suspecting it could be an Air/Oil Separator going bad slowly, or the piece of electronic gadget on the Throttle Body itself, that controls the idling and buttlefly. Out of curiosity, I took apart the casing for the electronics on the Throttle Body to look inside... nothing much but a few cogwheels and a small electronics board. The car still drives well, it's just the cold start, but once the few seconds of weak idling catches on, it idles fine. The Battery/Generator light does come on, but promptly goes away once the idling catches on. This, like I mentioned before, could be due to the alternator not being able to start charging yet due to the weak idling. Any ideas on what to do next? I just want to be prepared and start troubleshooting it now, instead of waiting to be stranded. Thanks. EDIT: Oh, I forgot to add that I've been getting some 'white smoke' startups lately. Not much, but noticeably enough, even if I haven't been pushing the car the last time before I shut down. The white smoke goes away after a few seconds though.
  22. I've never tried that either...Once I accidentally stepped on it from a light and it was in Manual, I thought it was in Auto. I panicked a little when it unexpectedly revved up that high, looked on the dash, and only realized it was in Manual, so I quickly flicked to upshift, didn't even have the chance to check the rpm, but it sounded very high and the car was not moving any faster, so it was probably at the peak already. I'm sure it will automatically upshift to protect the engine. I know sometimes when I'm in Manual and have been cruising for a while, it somehow switches back to Auto??
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