CosmosC4S

You're right it's a cheap POS. I opened up my spoiler tail light to check one of the bulbs that wasn't lighting up.

I was extra careful knowing that it could well be disintegrating already,

so, as if I was disarming a bomb...I carefully opened up the casing...

one of the clips started to give, then I looked at the faulty bulb, but everything was good.

I checked the strips of metal for connection issues, the plastic pieces that hold/support the metal slots for the bulbs started breaking!

I was like WTF! So I carefully repositioned everything and back into the casing.

Now all the bulbs work!? Weird...probably just poor connection.

I guess I'll have to look into the LED lights soon, but for now, they still work.

I noticed my TB looking like that on the last air fulter change. I was thinking of cleaning but was concerned about which solvent to use that wouldn't mess up the electronics downstream. I have gumout carb cleaner. I started to open the butterfly by hand and noticed the tension so I didn't push it any further. Did you just push yours open by hand?

Yes, I pushed the butterfly with my hands, and gently rocked it back and forth to clean the part where it hinges on the body.

Also pushed it all the way open to clean the inside and way into the plenum with a clean rag to clean the layer of oily mist.

I would think carb cleaner is fine and would do no harm, that's what everyone here recommends.

But when I was at the auto-parts store, I saw this, and that's what I used.

You can likely get it pretty clean by holding the butterfly open and spraying behind it.

I like to remove the throttle body because it is not hat hard and then you can see the back side of the butterfly (without forcing it open) and make sure that the small idle holes at the edges are clean.

Oh Ok, thanks Loren. That explains why the throttle body would be removed.

I figured I could clean thoroughly inside, and even spray behind the butterfly, so I skipped the step.

Also, when I sized my socket onto the bolts, I noticed (just as I was warned before in previous posts)

that the socket would not completely fit into the lower right bolt. I would need an open-end wrench to loosen that bolt, right?

Also, I saw that the bolts were blue color-marked, which could mean it's one of those bolts that need to be replaced with new ones after removal.

So I thought I'd skip the step and save myself the hassle.

OH! And I'm glad to confirm that it has resolved the issue. I started the car this morning, and it started with perfect idling right away.

What an easy fix, you just gotta know the tricks! And Thanks to you guys, :cheers:

When I was working on the car today cleaning the throttle body,

I noticed some worn parts and I have some questions that hopefully some of you have the answers to.

1. What is that foam piece in the air filter box? Is that piece replaceable, and what is it called?

I pushed my finger in it and Oops! It felt like it was already disintegrating, left an indentation.

I'm thinking it's some kinda moisture-absorbing foam?

2. I noticed this hose here that is all cracked-up, looks like it will crumble soon and will affect something.

What part is this, and what does it do? It sure looks like a pain to replace though, from what I can see.

It runs all the way behind the engine...and I am wondering how to replace that piece of hose without removing a bunch of stuff!?

I am thinking if it is indeed a pain to replace, and if it is not under any pressure,

is it all right to just temporarily reinforce it with some electrical tape or duct tape, around the part of the hose that's breaking down?

Thanks in Advance!

I've been having a problem with my 02 C4S lately.

When I start the car for the first time, it idles weak, stumbles and seems like it's gonna stall...but it doesn't.

This would go for like 10 - 20secs, then suddenly it "catches" and the rpm goes up to normal,

from then on eveything is fine, and for the rest of the day it starts fine, until it sits again for a long period of time.

At the time during the weak idling, if I step on the gas, it will stumble.

I've tried tapping gently on the gas, and it could, most of the time, help coax it to "catch" and go to normal idling.

Well, the symptom got worse, and the engine did stall for the first time the other day.

I started it again, and it did start, and did the regular weak idling routine, then got back on track after a few seconds.

Also, I didn't mention that during the weak idling, the "Battery/Generator" warning light would come on,

but would go away immediately as soon as the idling catches on to normal and the voltmeter shows about 14v.

I figured that the alternator didn't get a chance to power up any juice with the low rpm when the idling was struggling,

and as soon as the idling was normal, the alternator was able to get to work and the Battery/Generator light went away.

Anyway, after reading up on the many common issues with the throttle body being dirty and thus affecting idling,

I decided I had to look into that area.

It was a pretty easy job, removing the air-intake box and getting to the throttle body took about 10 mins.

I was about to remove the throttle body, as suggested by some here, to clean both the front and back of it as well.

Then I saw that the throttle body itself is not that deep, and the plenum was right there behind it.

I didn't see any need to remove the whole throttle body, as there wasn't really anything to clean behind it, it was kinda flushed with the plenum.

Unless I'm missing something here? Can someone please elaborate or explain why or if the throttle body should be removed for cleaning?

Anyway, there was some carbon buildup around the butterfly, but not as bad as I had expected, judging from the symptoms it was causing.

The inside looked a little dirty as well, but nothing shocking.

I was relieved not to find any oil in or around there, as I've had pretty frequent brief "white-smoke" startups lately with the poor idling.

That would eliminate a possible Air/Oil Separator issue.

So, after the cleaning around the butterfly area with a Throttle Body cleaner, and the inside with a clean rag (using a wooden dowel)

I put everything back, and performed the ritual for the throttle body adaptation.

Started the car and.....one crank...the engine jumped to life at full-speed idle! (after a split-sec hesitation)

Something I have not seen in about a month of two!

It is simply amazing how such little carbon buildup on the throttle body could make such a big difference in the startup idling.

However...I'm not jumping to conclusions just yet. After the initial cold start, the car usually starts and idle fine after that.

As such, I couldn't re-test the car to confirm the fix. I'd have to wait till tomorrow morning to do the startup test again.

Thanks to everyone and Loren for the tips!

Here are some before and after pics of the throttle body:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

My 3rd brake light is all working fine, but there is one bulb in the tail/wing brake light that is out.

Thanks for the tip, I should be careful with handling when I check out mine.

When I did mine, the results were as follows:

#1 - 270

#2 - 265

#3 - 265

#4 - 255

#5 - 255

#6 - 255

I don't know why my numbers are way higher, perhaps due to the 3.6L engine?

But I know my mechanic told me they were solid results, and that the %difference is what matters most.

Oh...and I think you are not supposed to remove the oil filler cap with the engine running...

hmmm...good question, I haven't tried that before,

but I have found myself having to upshift on several occasions, when I forgot I was in manual mode.

Those were times when I would be stepping on it, thinking it was in auto, and upon hearing the engine speed,

realized I was in manual and had to upshift. And in the haste, I have never thought of checking the rpm though.

I do know that if you are in manual mode, and you are slowing down, and forgot to downshift, it will downshift automatically.

I would assume, YES, that if you hit the rev limit in manual mode, it will automatically upshift.

Does it mention anything about that in the manual?

It's the clip that holds in the "bose" logo on the speaker grille. :renntech:

You are CORRECT! :clapping: Obviously your username says it all!

I checked my speaker grilles and the one on the driver's side (where I removed the panel) the Bose logo is missing.

I don't think it came off during the panel removal, as I would have seen it on my garage floor.

It must have dropped off before and the clip fell inside, waiting to be discovered.

Thanks for telling me where the clip belongs anyway. :cheers:

I'm sorry to hear that John. It doesn't sound good at all.

I sure hope you're not another victiim of a blown engine.

Nice pics Juan! Thanks for sharing. :clapping:

However...I've read a lot of good things about the Tiptronic Transmissions in the 997 Turbo's

A MY02 is egas so there is no ICV.

The idle is controlled by the DME making slight adjustments of the throttle butterfly.

I would start by cleaning the throttle butterfly (front and back side) with a spray fuel injector/carburetor cleaner.

Thank you, Loren!

Tip's been great, except the auto really gets annoying as it tends to upshift too early all the time.

I usually find myself downshifting to "override" that default setting.

But the Tip is the best thing for situations like heavy traffice, and of course, the wife.

However, the manual is still the ultimate choice for toying around with a Porsche.

I've been having a similar problem with my 02 C4S lately.

When I start the car for the first time, it idles weak, stumbles and seems like it's gonna stall...but it doesn't.

This would go for like 10 - 20secs, then suddenly it "catches" and the rpm goes up to normal,

from then on eveything is fine, and for the rest of the day it starts fine, until it sits again for a long period of time.

At the time during the weak idling, if I step on the gas, it will stumble.

I've tried tapping gently on the gas, and it could, most of the time, help coax it to "catch" and go to normal idling.

Is this the same thing we are talking about here?

Will cleaning the ICV and throttle body solve the problem?

How hard is the DIY for that on a scale of 1-10?

I was at Walmart the other day and saw a Everlast Group 48 battery (I think it's 48-3 if I remember correctly)

selling for about $53. Their catalog hanging on the shelf lists that battery for the 996's.

It has the vented tube package attached on the top, just like the Duralast, and it's made by Johnson Controls.

Anybody seen the Everlast, and know if it's any good?

I know the Everlast Maxx is highly rated and recommended by Consumer Reports, but not the less expensive Everlast.

That's to prevent our most-desired and exclusive C4S rear reflective strip from falling into the wrong hands!

Err...in this case, I mean falling onto the wrong cars! :P

Sorry...just messing with ya! I couldn't help that! :D :jump:

Loren, is the C4S front bumper basically the same as the C2 in your diagram?

Like bolts and clips placements, etc.

I was removing the door panel the other day, and this small metal clip-piece fell off from somewhere. It's about 1-1/4 inches long.

I looked everywhere behind the door panel, but can't seem to figure out where it might fit, or if it even belongs there!?

I am hoping that some of you more experienced people will recognize it at first sight!

The C4S is a wide body and comes with wider rear wheels/tires.

I'd think you should stick with 295's. Why would you want to go with narrower tires? :huh:

I have a 2002 C4S, bought it at 70k miles, and so far it has been pretty solid over a year.

I've had a busted coolant hose, and recently, needed a new alternator. That's about all.

A tiptronic is less likely to have the dreaded RMS issue. Mine is good so far, and dealer service history has no record of a RMS problem.

You should get the Porsche dealer's service record/history on the car, they should be able to make you a copy.

From the printout, you should be able to get a better story of the car,

or see any persistent problems if any, that the car has been through. Or any parts that have already been replaced, etc.

Get someone to do a good PPI on the car, or you could take the car to a Porsche dealer.

I have a 996 buyer's guide that I bought online, if you are interested, PM me.

But I felt it wasn't thorough enough to replace a PPI by a professional.

Still, I bought my car with the guide, without a PPI, which is actually a big risk!

Good Luck!

1. The door handle (not door opener) on the 996 is C shaped and has a vertical seam. There are two halves snapped and hence the vertical seam you see. Put a blunt plastic spatula in that seam and gently pry off the outer plastic away from the door. It should snap off from several places and nothing is breakable as such.

Thanks for the writeup, siddharth! I referred to your helpful writeup, as well as the diagram from the workshop manual.

The door panel was pretty easy to remove. However....

I must say others have to be cautious when prying off the C-shaped handle piece.

I had a little difficulty prying off the last bit of it, which was at the uppermost top, near the handle lever.

I referred to your writeup again, and since it said, "nothing is breakable"... I went ahead and pryed harder, thinking it just needed a little more force.

Ended up breaking a small plastic piece that hooks/clips onto the door handle! (Not blaming you, my fault)

This particular piece is more "Hooked" at the tip than the other pieces that hold it in place, that probably explains why it broke when I applied more force.

I'm attempting to superglue the small piece back, then reinforce with JB Weld. Hope that will hold when I push the clip back in when reinstalling.

I just thought I'd let others know that they do have to be gentle and careful when prying. :cheers:

Thanks for the reassurance, Toolpants! :thumbup:

At least I feel better, and safer, knowing for sure it's just a light and nothing complicated.

I can always drive down to my indy mechanic after all the bodywork/painting is done,

and I'm sure he can just reset it for me, if he needs to, I don't mind paying him a half-hour's labor (I think 1/2 hr is the min. labor charge).

With the airbag off the door, it's safe in my house,

and also, that way, the bodyshop workers don't have to disconnect and reconnect the battery,

and possibly lock the hood in the process, and have to mess with more stuff!

Now...I have to cover all my interior with bedsheets, except, of course, the driver's seat.

I'm so paranoid about the whole thing, I just don't trust bodyshops.

My last visit to a bodyshop many years ago, (another car) resulted in spraypaint dust all over my interior!

And my C4S has mostly full leather interior,

which, I think any attempt to clean overspray with chemicals/solvents, will mess up the leather in some way.

Toolpants, does the dealer just have to simply reset or clear the airbag light,

or is there some programming to do in order for the airbag to work correctly.

I'm hoping to get some quick answers, before tomorrow morning.

I'm taking my car in to the bodyshop to fix the door damage tomorrow.

I decided to remove the door panel, so those guys have less stuff to mess up.

Can't imagine them leaving the leather door panel aside, and collecting paint dust for several days!

Also, that way, I can see inside to make sure things are done right, anti-rust applied, etc.

Right now, I already have the door panel removed.

Now I'm also thinking of removing the airbag, coz' I don't trust them removing that and leaving it in a corner, or underneath a pile of whatever, getting scraped, or punctured.

Question is, if I remove the airbag and reconnect the battery to drive the car over to them,

That is gonna trigger an airbag light, correct? Is this all there is to it, the airbag light?

Is there any caution that I should know of, starting or driving the car without the door airbag?

Then later when I get the car back, and install and reconnect the airbag back on the door,

Will the airbag be in good working order as before?

Will the airbag light just go away, or do I need the dealer to reset it?

Also, I think I will need to replace the foam door film.

Is this something that's available at the dealer?

Has anyone replaced this, does it come with the seal/glue?

Thanks for your responses!

If you say you can barely change your own engine oil,

then I'd suggest you let a professional change your transmission and front/rear differential oils.

How many miles on your car? It's scheduled at 90k miles.