CosmosC4S

Thanks guys. I'm loving it. ALTHOUGH I found some dime-sized oil drops on my garage floor as of late! It's not alot though.

Oh Oh...possibly RMS... :unsure:

Any warranty left on the car?

So you found it! It's a tracking device your wife secretly installed to keep track of your whereabouts...... :unsure:

Welcome aboard, Arnee! And Congratulations on the car! :cheers:

Beautiful as always Ron! You know I'm your fan! :clapping:

But where are the sexy rear shots?

That is exactly what I thought when I first got my 02 C4S.

Coming from a BMW 540i where the brakes are super sensitive, and only needs little effort,

you could feel the pads biting and pulling on the rotors.

I discovered I needed to push harder to stop the C4S, and the feeling is totally different.

So when I got the car for a full annual service, I told my mechanic about it,

Pads and rotors were good, he replaced the brake fluid with blue racing fluid.

Tested it and told me the brakes work beautifully.

But when I drove it home...it felt the same as before! And to think that these are the Turbo brakes!?

I am still disappointed, comparing it to the BMW brakes. I'm learning to live with it.

The fact that it is attached with a double sided tape makes me think that this is not a good product.

I'd rather that than screws....

Thank you much, RandalJ

It looks like it's actually a 2-piece wheel!

If they mask that wheel to paint, that is excellent work,

either that or the wheel itself has a very distinctive "ridge" or "separation" between the rim and the dish/spokes.

The other possibility is, they painted the whole wheel, then grinded/sanded the rims on a spinning machine.

Looks good though, I don't think it can be done on mine, they're slightly different wheels.

I just took a closer look at your wheels and realized that we have different wheel designs!

Mine are the solid spoke Turbo Twist 2's, they don't have a distinct lip around the rims.

D*mn....

Thank you, I've been thinking of repainting (actually powder-coating) my wheels in a smoke or grey color,

but wasn't sure how they would turn out. I also wanted the edge of rims to be the base color but being that it's a one-piece wheel, I thought it would be impossible to do powder-coating with 2 colors, as they bake the wheels in high heat, not spray painted where you can mask out areas.

Now I see your wheels...they look very good, well, at least from a distance and in the pics.

That's why I ask for some closeup shots. I wouldn't be surprised if there are some imperfections in the masking, especially circular masking.

WELCOME! Nice color there, and I love the wheels!

Can you post a close up shot of the wheels?

I'd like to see how they painted that grey on being that it's a one-piece wheel.

Did they mask the outer rim, and if so, are they perfectly painted?

WELCOME! And Congrats on the car.

What's the purpose of this delete mod?? :unsure:

I had that same "unexplained mechanical phenomenon" once when I got a brand-new remote key.

Everytime I disarm the car with this new key, the driver's seat would first move all the way back,

then the seatback tilts all the way down. I had to interrupt this process quickly by pressing any one

of the memory setting buttons, then it will stop.

The dealer couldn't program the key right (that's my belief) coz' my original key doesn't do that.

They blamed it on a faulty memory control module under the seat, quoted me $1000 to replace, with no guarantee that it will solve the problem. (WTF!?)

I chose to live with it as I'm the only driver, and I put the new key aside just as a spare.

My indy mechanic says he can try reprogramming the key,

or he could disable the key memory so it doesn't affect the seat when used.

I haven't gotten to that yet...one day.

Does yours only happen with a particular key? (mine does)

Does it only happen when you disarm the car? (mine does)

Does it happen when you open the door if the car is not armed? (mine does not)

Loren, as stated earlier, I'm familiar with self-leveling headlights, it was on my 540i.

According to what you said, I should go look under my car to see if there is actually a level sensor on the control arm (I've seen that on my 540i as well).

The reason why I thought mine is not Bi-Xenon, is coz' my hi-beams seem yellowish compared to my low beams. Unless that's how they are. And also, when I turn on my lights, they do not do the self-check.

Do you know if Bi-Xenons were standard on my 02 C4S?

If so, Maybe something is wrong with my self-leveling sensor.

I don't have Bi-Xenons, just the standard Litronics.

And just as I thought, I don't have the self-leveling option.

So self-leveling wasn't standard on Litronics then, at least not for my year.

Now, don't forget the C4S has 20+hp over the C4,

and you should look up the performance specs differences as well.

The C4S has the same engine as the C4 and the C2 - 320 hp (from MY2002).

The C4S does come with the sport suspension as stock and is (in the US version) 10mm lower. C4S also gets the larger TT (steel) brakes.

But doesn't ADias have a 2000 C4? Isn't that the 3.4l with 296/300hp?

The 996 C4S is looks only as it is far heavier. In a 996 I much prefer the C4, as the weight penalty is far more modest. As Paul Frere said C4S "is heavy and no go" - I agree.

Now, don't forget the C4S has 20+hp over the C4,

and you should look up the performance specs differences as well. :rolleyes:

Loren, I have factory Litronics on my 2002 C4S.

But I don't think they are self-leveling...?

Aren't self-leveling lights supposed to self-check (flick up-down) a little when they are first turned on?

Mine doesn't do that, but my BMW 540i's self-leveling Xenons did that.

Are you sure it's not an option?

There is a max line on the tank, and if you overfill it past the max line,

I'm pretty sure the excess is going to find a way out!

According to the computer in my car, it's 20-22mpg on average.

I check manually everytime I fill up and my records show lesser figures of 18-19mpg.

On the highway on long trips I've done about 23-24mpg.

I have a tip, so it won't get as good mileage as a manual.

I have the same shimmering problem.

Funny thing is it shimmers at times, and doesn't at other times.

So that sort of concludes the high possibility of the cause being my tires.

Coz' bad wheels or bad balancing will be shimmering or vibrating consistently.

I can't wait to finish up my fronts.

Oh, and btw, I have all matching OEM's (CSC2's)

I gave up on this issue. Dealer told me the memory control unit under the seat needs to be replaced.

A cool $1000. But I asked why is the old key remote functioning properly, even possible to change memory settings with it. Only the new remote is not working right.

They said that happens, coz' the old key was already programmed,

and the new remote is...well, new.

So I'm supposed to be a sucker and spend $1000 to replace the memory control unit,

Dealer said "No guarantee" that will solve the problem, just "very likely" the cause.

I say screw that, I can still use the old remote, I'm the only one driving the car.

Besides, my indy mechanic says he will check it out for me,

he's encountered similar problems before with his past customers.

Worst scenario, he suggested disabling the new remote's memory setting completely,

so that it doesn't activate any memory settings when used.

I was also wondering what this howling noise is.

Hear it at cruising with gas, immediately stops when pedal's released.

It doesn't seem to vary in loudness though, pretty consistent in the tone.

I was afraid it could be transmission related...hope it's not.

Anyone found out what the real cause is?

I'm wondering why a 2003 model that's using the upgraded reservoir,

is still having the same dreaded problem!?? :unsure:

Sorry I can't help with the instructions,

but my advice is you should always physically turn to the sides to check very quickly right before you change lanes. You cannot just depend on the side mirrors.