911h20

Buddy has a 2001 Porsche 996 w/3.4L and stock exhaust. He recently purchased a pair of factory OEM Porsche sport exhaust mufflers from a local guy who was converting his car to a track only car and took them off. We want to install these mufflers but need the additional parts. Can anyone please provide part#'s for what I will need to install them. Right now have the mufflers w/ brackets and the associated solenoid etc... I "believe" I will need wiring harness, vacuum hoses and cabin buttons.

Also, anyone have a "how-to" or a link with pictures of a retrofit installation?

Finally, if it turns out to be too much trouble to do the wiring and vacuum what happens if we install "just" the mufflers? Are they in the "ON" mode without electronics and vacuum or the "OFF" position? In other words can we just install mufflers and have them be LOUD all the time?

I tried buying some of the parts from the dealer listed in TSB and found a coupler weren't available. I think one part was the bracket to hold the tank. I ended up going to Carnewll (sp?) and they had a kit with all the parts.

My 1999 996 used to the same thing. I have 60,000 miles. I tried different weights of Mobil 1 and Castrol with no change. I even took it to the dealer for an opinion and they said - normal. So at my last oil change I tried Motul 8100, 5W-40 and the noise stopped. I know it sounds ridiculous but after a couple of thousand miles, still no noise.

There is a mechanical noise coming from the engine on cold start-ups. The noise goes away almost immediately. I read that it could be from the chain tensioners. If that is the case, what is causing the noise and how the noise could be eliminated?

Thanks

I wanted to add that if you are doing a PSE installation from scratch and have to run the PSE wiring harness (or are having someone do the install for you), an alternative to cutting the diode in the relay is to simply not to install the Speedometer Signal A wire (Grey/Pink) that goes from the Relay socket pin 6 to the jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 of the relay support. Simply tie that line off. If at a later time you want to activate the speed cutout, it is easy to just install the wire in Jumper Plug 1/1, Slot 23.

My car is a 1999 cabriolet with PSE installed complete with the vacuum cutoff but without the dash switch. I would like to add the dash so I can turn the system off completely if desired. Is a wiring diagram of harness available to add the swith later?

thanks for any help.

Here is the install instructions for the Sports Exhaust System. In this installation document are the connections into the relay block for adding the switch.

Sports Exhaust System 03.pdf

thanks!

I wanted to add that if you are doing a PSE installation from scratch and have to run the PSE wiring harness (or are having someone do the install for you), an alternative to cutting the diode in the relay is to simply not to install the Speedometer Signal A wire (Grey/Pink) that goes from the Relay socket pin 6 to the jumper plug 1/1 in slot 23 of the relay support. Simply tie that line off. If at a later time you want to activate the speed cutout, it is easy to just install the wire in Jumper Plug 1/1, Slot 23.

My car is a 1999 cabriolet with PSE installed complete with the vacuum cutoff but without the dash switch. I would like to add the dash so I can turn the system off completely if desired. Is a wiring diagram of harness available to add the swith later?

thanks for any help.

found my answer thanks.

I am looking at a 2006 4S cabriolet and I am being told by the owner that porsche no longer places the option sticker under the front hood as with the 996 and 993 models. It this true and if so how can one determine what options were installed on the car from the factory. Thanks for your reponse.

someone once mentioned Hawk (?) pads are low on dust.

Funny you should mention this, I just reset my AB light yesterday.

The majority of Air Bag warning lights are because of intermittent Seatbelt buckle switch issues with the microswitch (gunk or lint in the buckle) or a loose ground. Usually just buckling and unbuckling the belt cures the problem, but you still have to use either the Factory Porsche tester or a Durametric tester to reset the light. If the fault is in the buckle, blowing compressed air into it can clean out any lint or debris that might cause the switch not to close. One less common problem with the buckle is if the connectors under the seat have come apart, but this is less common.

Hopefully, your Dealer, will do a goodwill reset of the fault.

It must be the pollen in the air. I had to reset mine about two weeks ago.

Recently on my 99 996 C2 Cab w/6 speed, I've had the RMS, IMS and clutch replaced. In addition I had a new windshield install at the same time. When I went home the air bag warning light was on. I checked it the code with my Durametric and found "passenger seat buckle". So I cleared the code using the software. Question, is the passenger seat buckle need the kit for repair or did some other event related to the service trip the code in error?

Have a look at TSB 1/04 6924 Airbag Warning Light Comes On: Fault Codes 45, 46, 48 and 49 -- dated Jul 21, 2004.

All the info you need is there.

Thanks, I will take a look.

Recently on my 99 996 C2 Cab w/6 speed, I've had the RMS, IMS and clutch replaced. In addition I had a new windshield install at the same time. When I went home the air bag warning light was on. I checked it the code with my Durametric and found "passenger seat buckle". So I cleared the code using the software. Question, is the passenger seat buckle need the kit for repair or did some other event related to the service trip the code in error?

Nice job, but no, (and NO offense at all intended) it's not a new idea. These have been available from here:

http://www.asedeals.com/automotive_floor_jacks.html

for a while, $84 each, free shipping and is adjustable. Could be modified to work F-R or side/side, I would think. Regarding the F-R vs front or back, the same side is WAY more dangerous to you and the car. Too easy to roll out between the jack and the car, and destroy the side of your car, or you. Much harder to do that with F or R wheels down or that side already on jack stands.

that looks a bit unsafe. What prevents the bar from rolling?

Saga over with decision made on 3 final repair options...

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Jim Ellis Atlanta Dealer did try really real hard to assist....final options:

1) Replace the IMS seal and pay for RMS seal. Dealer pays for everything else via Porsche. Car out of warranty 3 months, so Porsche NA and dealer did something - about $ 1,000 in repairs. 2 year warranty on the RMS and IMS seals, since I paid something for leak repair per their rules. Case specs were good. no major engine disassembly a plus...at least most of the bolts still twisted in by German factory.....

2) Buy aftermarket heavy duty bearing, no warranty and slip on to the existing IM Shaft, no major teardown.

3) Replace IMshaft with new upgraded Porsche IM shaft and bearing and receive 50 % off labor and 2 year warranty on lower end of engine and bascially resealed motor.....bill to be around $ 2,000 in total and take preventative risk of no more failures. have to do major engine teardown, good confidence in techs, but you never know......maybe other issues later...car runs great now.....

decision - # 1 ......75,000 mile car, 6 years old, worth 30 on trade max,

low 40's retail.......take risk IMS original bearing holds up...........I will keep as my second 911 and daily driver, have 993 - 1995 cab with 37k miles in great shape..........wife said buy a new car to put a better smile on my face....maybe Maserati 4 door, Bentley or Aston 2 door....Panamera too ugly in and out for me......

listen to your wife and get the new 997!

Many thanks to allomoto for helping me make contact with Jonathan at designtechnix.com. Here are three pictures of the conversion; more to follow over the weekend.

that does look very nice. Let us know what you find out about the complete install and requirements.

the other plug adjust the lights from low beam to high beam.

About 7 years ago I had a fairly new corvette repainted because of reasons too long to list. The shop removed all weather stripping, lights, door handles, hood, bumpers, etc. Body parts were all painted separately off the car. Price was $10K and the car looked better than new. Quality paint and workmanship is not cheap. It's a tough call since most newer cars will not be worth $10K more once the painting is complete. It's was easy for me since it was someone elses insurance money.

Turbo - More reliable ... I don't think you'll get much debate about that.

How about a soundclip!

Guess it still runs.

Looks like Santana Row. I'll have to go over there one of these Saturdays. I grew up in the area and back then in the rear of the old Town and Country shopping center there was an empty field. I would ride my bicycle over there and shoot my BB gun. Still have my BB gun....

If you heard the car run does it still have straight pipes.

It still has straight pipes and is LOUD.

One more photo.

Talked with the Owner and TRG did the work, 600+HP,

He's back

I used H&R's with factory shocks and found the ride bouncy. I then swithed the stock shocks to Bilsteins and the ride is just right.

I installed H&R's on my 99 C2 with 35k miles using the stock shocks and found the ride "bouncy". I presumed since the car was now lower the stock shocks are working out of their desired range. I then installed new Bilsteins which corrected the bounce. Car looks and drive great.

Dent Pro in the Bay area can do the touch up work for you. About $300.00. I've seen some of the work and it's pretty good.