Westcoaster

I think you may also need the PIWS tester to set the beam angle since the lights are controlled by servo motors internally. OEM fittment includes a controller for the lights and sensors on the front and rear of the car to determine the ride angle.

Thanks, after careful deliberation I have decided to forgo the factory system, I bought a aftermarket kit and I am fighting the install now! :cursing:

The Canadian spec cars all have daytime running lights activated, the headlights are on all of the time, which isn't the biggest problem....

They (Porsche) use a modified voltage signal to drive the headlights, sort of a 'pulsed DC voltage' that drives the ballast crazy. I can run the lights off the battery, the problem is finding a switched source so I can trigger the relay to drive the lights.

So far everything that I have tested has this modified voltage. Bummer!

I know it is covered in the owners manual, but before I attempt this I wanted to check if there was a better guide available?

This weekend we (our local club) is having a Concours Lite, actually more of a Wash and Shine and this got me working on the exterior but made me think of the engine compartment too! It won't be necessary to open the engine bay for this weekend but I would like to poke around there any way. :)

And on the same note, when an event like the upcoming Porsche Parade in San Diego is held, is there always a class for "Street" and "Wash and Shine"?

Thanks,

Loren,

It would be quite difficult to hide the V-1 transformer thingy anywhere near there. Is there any problem tapping off the fuse panel? There are unused slots that have 12v power. Would this cause CAN bus problems?

I am looking for a 'clean' switched 12v source as well. By clean, I mean each time I scoped a line it is a squarewave not a solid 12v. This drives relays to buzz instead of a solid on condition.

Aren't all of the connections in the fuse panel 'on' all of the time?

Is there a place on the light switch that could be used to trigger a relay, say when truning on the park lights?

How about a picture without anything mounted to the plate?

This whole Nitrogen thing is smoke and mirrors, save your money or invest in better tires for the money saved. It's about the moisture, absolutly nothing to do with the gas. Clean dry, -60 dew point, air is just as good as Nitrogen. The stuff they use on the bead of the tire for mounting contains water, so even if they use Nitrogen, it is wet and no better than plain air. I'm really tired of hearing about people buying into this urban myth and getting taken by this scam.

Ray, if it's a scam then the car manufacturers are propagating it as well! This on a brand new car...

Here is what I used, it say's SuperSyn and European Car Formula and is on the current approved list. Phew!

I see that this is becoming more common these days and appearently for good reasons, I have read that it is superior to air in many ways, at least in tires that is!

1) does a new car from Porsche come with nitrogen filled tires?

2) is there an easy way to change out the air and replace it with nitrogen (without loosing the bead seal)?

Cheers!

Since mine has a dipstick, wanna trade?

Hmmm, let me think awhile on that one?

While I am does anybody know what each of the 3 segments on the OBC display dividing the demarcation between full and add represent?

Perhaps 1/3 of a liter each?

Each segment represents 0.4L (according to the owner's manual).

Regards,

paul...

thanks!

The manual also stresses the point of not overfilling the oil.

Regards,

paul...

I'll be sure not to do that, I just want to be sure to keep it topped up not wait until it is 'below' the add mark.

BTW the other reason I like the dip stick is because it allows me to inspect the oil keeping an eye out for contaminents, before they become a problem. It is the blood of the engine and regular inspection can tell a lot about the internal condition of the engine.

Since mine has a dipstick, wanna trade?

Hmmm, let me think awhile on that one?

While I am does anybody know what each of the 3 segments on the OBC display dividing the demarcation between full and add represent?

Perhaps 1/3 of a liter each?

Each segment represents 0.4L (according to the owner's manual).

Regards,

paul...

thanks!

Since mine has a dipstick, wanna trade?

Hmmm, let me think awhile on that one?

While I am does anybody know what each of the 3 segments on the OBC display dividing the demarcation between full and add represent?

Perhaps 1/3 of a liter each?

NO, NADDA, ZILCH, ZERO!!!!

Really! This is a pain, I'm beginning to have withdrawl symptoms! I'm not used to a car where I can't be tinkering with all of this stuff!

So far all I get to do is drive or wash it!, well that isn't entirely true, I did pull of the exhaust tip and polish the heck out of it. :clapping:

Still haven't got those darn HID lights working though!

That's the beauty of these cars. When I show it to friends, i tell them it doesn't have an engine. If you must tinker, get an MG or Triumph or a Harley. In my book these cars are for driving and washing. I done the other and I like this more.

Mine has a dip stick, but I don't use it. And yes i know where it is.

'99 986

That's just it, I had a car to tinker with, that is not my goal here, just the desire to accurately check the oil level beforeI start the engine.

Besides if I don't do some of this I will wash the paint right off this car!

There is no jack nor threaded bolt in my 05 997 C2S. I don't think they are in US cars? Does anyone has them?

Thanks

My 06 987 didn't have a jack or hanger bolt either, looks like they have replaced these items with a compressor and a canister of tire sealant! Heck it didn't even have a socket for the wheel bolts.

I get the impression they don't you to take off the wheels at all, just take it to a dealer for any required repairs.

NO, NADDA, ZILCH, ZERO!!!!

Really! This is a pain, I'm beginning to have withdrawl symptoms! I'm not used to a car where I can't be tinkering with all of this stuff!

So far all I get to do is drive or wash it!, well that isn't entirely true, I did pull of the exhaust tip and polish the heck out of it. :clapping:

Still haven't got those darn HID lights working though!

I know how to check the engine oil level by using the OBC but is there a dip stick on the 987's?

Thanks

I always loved that saying " drive it like you stole it"! Reminds me of Nicholas Cage in Gone in 60 seconds! :thumbup:

Anyway, I am still in the break-in period with my 987, just reached 2400km (1500 miles), so I have a little way to go yet. Staying below 4200 rpm is tough since I have owned this car since last October and it seems like I should be able to 'open it up' but I resist the urge. That is not to say I haven't taken it to 5000 rpm when need to avoid slowing other traffic, I just don't make a habit of winding it out.

I believe that all mechanical surfaces that are designed to interface with each other should be broken in for optimum seal and part longevity, taking it easy during this process allows the oil system to remove any material that gets ejected from between these surfaces and as the theory goes, be trapped in the filter. If the reward is a longer lasting, more reliable engine then I will resist during the recommended break-in period.

I don't know if the following is true, but the service adviser at my local dealer said that the OBC records various engine parameters such as maximum temperature and engine RPM in a log that can be downloaded and checked in the event of a warranty claim.

You can choose which reason encourages you to follow break-in practices, for me both combine to make a worthwhile case.

They all worked for me.

Did you remove the spaces? (i.e. PNA50398701)

Yep, but didn't include the 'PNA' because I didn't think it was part of the number... Better now!

Here are the part numbers for the Boxster (987) and Cayman bras:

Cayman PNA 503 987 03

CaymanS PNA 503 987 04

Boxster PNA 503 987 01

BoxsterS PNA 503 987 02

These numbers don't seem to work in the price look-up?

I am planning a couple of road trips this summer and feel that for me the best protection for the front end of the Boxster would be a fabric Bra.

What is the best fitting unit (preferrably with out a cutout where the plate is, or in my case is NOT)?

If you have pictures or links that would be great!

Thanks.

I am having good sucess with this: http://www.303products.com/tech/index.cfm?...FTOKEN=19140619

Powerful enough to protect fabrics in the harshest environment ...outdoors. Yet 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is safe for the finest fabrics, wool, silk, and fine leathers - including suede. Restores lost water repellency and stain repellency to factory new levels. Treating fabrics helps resist soiling, impedes mildew formation and protects against the sun's harmful UV rays. Proper maintenance with 303 Products will add to the life of your fabrics, save you money, and ... It's Easy !

It beads so well that when I wash my car if there is any water left on the top, I use the vacuum cleaners blower attachment and just blow th water off!

So what would I use to top up a MY06 987 then?

thanks!

I've been doing some reading from several different sources and from what I've read, a common problem is that the ball and socket gimbal can come loose in shipping, which appears to be what has happened with mine. I'm going to have to partially disassemble both lights to reset them. It's just so tight in there and difficult to see what you're doing. Nothing is ever easy anymore.....

But soon you'll have Litronics up front! :clapping:

Maybe they do that from the factory so you have to align the lights before use?

I bought one of these on eBay, perfect to protect the canvas top or the interior from the bird and the sun:

Covercraft Vehicle Selector

Year: 2005

Make: PORSCHE

Model: BOXSTER Convertible/Convertible Interior Cover/ Size LG

Description: NOAH®

All-Weather Protection

Film Barrier Technology

High-tech, Bonded 4-Layer Composite

Non-Woven, Multi-Layer Protection

Kimberly-Clark

Fabric Color: Gray

Warranty: 4 Years

SKU Description Unit Price Quantity Order

IC3057NH Cover: 2005 PORSCHE BOXSTER Convertible/Convertible Interior Cover/ Size LG - NOAH® Each 84.55

Covercraft has an office in the UK:

Covercraft Europe Ltd

74 Maltings Place

Bagleys Lane

London SW6 2BY

United Kingdom

+44 (0)20 7736 3214

+44 (0)20 7384 3800

sales@covercraft-europe.com

Just purchased a Cayenne S 2005 and I read in the manual that it recommends 98 Octane but can handle 95...

Well every gas station around has 93 as the highest grade they sell. So what am I missing? Is 93 hurting the car?

Hey there, here is the answer I got to pretty much the same question (Babblers forum)...

Westcoaster wrote:

> Does anybody know if these fuel rating numbers compare?

> I have never seen any thing above 93 where I live. I would

> hate to think that we will never be able to realize top

> peformance from our cars on pump gas!?

The octane numbers around the world are quite arbitrary -- here's something I pulled off the net while back when arguing with the Ducati gang:

In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2

and here is what I found about how the octane can affect performance and milage:

The results were more dramatic with the test cars that require premium fuel. The turbocharged Saab's sophisticated Trionic engine-control system dialed the power back 9.8 percent on regular gas, and performance dropped 10.1 percent at the track. Burning regular in our BMW M3 diminished track performance by 6.6 percent, but neither the BMW nor the Saab suffered any drivability problems while burning regular unleaded fuel.

Our tests confirm that for most cars there is no compelling reason to buy more expensive fuel than the factory recommends, as any performance gain realized will surely be far less than the percentage hike in price. Cheapskates burning regular in cars designed to run on premium fuel can expect to trim performance by about the same percent they save at the pump. If the car is sufficiently new and sophisticated, it may not suffer any ill effects, but all such skinflints should be ready to switch back to premium at the first sign of knock or other drivability woes. And finally, if a car calibrated for regular fuel begins to knock on anything less than premium or midgrade, owners should invest in a tuneup, emissions-control-system repair, or detergent additives to solve, rather than bandage, the root problem. Class dismissed.

This was from an article in Car and Driver.

Thanks for the reply Berty987, I did look into the factory upgrade and found that it was really expensive something like $1500 so I ordered an aftermarket HID kit.

Now I have run into a situation where the factory wiring won't run the HID kit so I am trying to figure out a way to control a relay to power them directly from the battery. Problem is, finding a switched signal (not the factory lights) that can turn the relay on/off when the car is turned on/off.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Al