Westcoaster

I have the wiring diagrams for the 2005 997 and 987 if that is any help. I have noticed that the manuals have more than doubled since I got my sets for the 997 and 987. Perhaps a few other members that are interested in trying to maintain a current set could email me and we can see what we can do.

Can you please help me as I think I need the wire diagram for the radio as I want to ask the performance shop to rewire a FM transmitter wire for my ipod as I only have a cd24 radio without PCM.

2nd I am having a hell of time trying to install my HID conversion kit and the lights would flicker or 1 would turn on and 1 woudl turn off. I bought the xetronix set with some sort of computer tricker or destabilizer (not sure) but the guy states that should fix it. HOwever as you guessed, that didn't help. So I am done 550 dollars and cannot get the darn lights to work.

I thought to take the wire schematics to the performance / electrical shop to have them add on maybe some relays or diodes because it seemed to be an electrical problem and not the problem of the HID.

please advise.

thanks

I have a 2005 987 non s with retarded halogens and useless radio

:soapbox:

tmoney, you have a pm... also, check out my posts on aftermarket HID kits and the 987.

Westcoaster-

I don't think there is one in the 987. However, you could either run a line over to the fuse panel, or tap off of the existing cig lighter lines - depending on what you want to power. I have a 986 so I'm not sure if the 987's cig lighter is keyed w/ the ignition or not. Sorry can't help you much other than that.

I am trying to find a switched line to trigger a relay for lights, seemed like a easy task but so far no luck. I think that I have like 4 or 5 threads open on my failing HID headlight project. :cursing:

The cig outlets are all on all the time... I just figured if there was something like the phone power it would be an easy find.

How about a hint as to why it's exact composition is important? Are you trying to repair it or prep it for paint?

I'm not sure where you can get the 'pulsed' line from, but the ignition on can be run off the phone power hook up behind the center consol. It's a plug that looks somewhat like a 4pin trailer wiring harness. Here's a color code/description I did after I hooked up my sat radio using it.

As for the full power line, why not just run a dedicated line to the battery? Do a search on the rear speaker kit or 6x40 amp swap and you'll see there is a plug (about 6" above the gas pedal) that leads right behind the battery.

Good luck and post some pics after you install.

** note to self - edit the picture size someday

Do you know, Is there a connector like this in a 987?

AFAIK,

Generically it is a type of polyurathane, commonly used in most late model cars. Porsche may use a specific formula... might be tough to find out exactly the composition though.

Well, I also checked the voltage at the front marker light with the engine running, more unusable signals!

I figured the marker light was nice and handy to the front storage compartment but it will not work either.

The battery voltage is clean and free of all signal variances, a suitable source for the HID kit but it still leaves a need for a way to trigger a relay that supplies this voltage to the HID kit.

Still looking... :lightbulb:

I found the picture in the PET but it doesn't list all of the relays and what they are for.

Is the a diagram that shows this information?

Thanks

I see what you are trying to do by your other post. HID runs on AC and the square wave is the clipped AC needed to boost the 14VDC to 20Kv. Seems to me that the input should be clean. Keep in mind that once HIDs start and fail, they need a cool-down time before they'll light.

Sorry, but I think the only correct and legal way to convert to HID is spending the grand for the factory retrofit kit. Good luck though.

Actually my car came stock with regular halogens, although it is a Canadian spec car so it also has DRL activated. The signal shown on the scope was taken right at the headlight bulb connector where I would have expected a solid DC voltage. What I saw was a 14v DC signal with a dropout every 9 ms.

So that is why I am in search of a trigger for the relay, that way I could run the aftermarket HID kit powered through a relay directly connected to the battery. What I want is a clean source of 12v that is only 'on' when either the car is running or the headlights are in the 'on' position.

As for legality, yes I know the story around HID's, self-leveling and washers however; this car has projector style lamps that provide a precise cutoff effectively controlling the light throw from the lens (I suspect nearly identical to the factory HID), the only things missing would be the self leveling (a small issue) and the washers (my car is never dirty! :clapping: )

I appreciate any other ideas you might have, Thanks for reading this and the other posts for background)!

Would these pins be the same as used in the headlight connector for a my06 987?

o

You don't need to buy a new set of connectors, nor do you need a pin removal tool.

You'll need two pins with the following part number:

999 652 744 20

available at your dealer. I bought a handfull in case I screw up. The pin looks like (see pic):

thanks

I wouldn't recommend introducing air into the hydraulic system, IMHO a bogus way to 'simulate' different clutch behaviour! The clutch hydraulic system is completely separate from the brakes, but I still would not 'repair' your clutch this way.

I think brakes and clutch share the same hydraulics in the 996 (except TT I think). So my advice would be not to try and repair the clutch behaviour this way.

Really!?, then I stand corrected, even a BIGGER reason not to add air to system designed to properly operate without it.

My PZero Rossos N4 are trashed at the rear (8-10000 miles) the fronts still OK for a while. I want to switch the rears to Michelin Pilot Sport N1. Is this likely to cause massive handling issues?

I Intend moving all the way to Michelins when the fronts go.

The Porsche tire guide does not recommend doing this, I would think that you should either stay with the same that you have or replace all 4 tires at the same time.

Depending on how much life is left on the fronts, you may be able to wear out another set of rears before the fronts are due, this way you stay way from a mix. But I also read in the same guide that 6 years was the maximum time the tires should be on a vehicle.

The 2006 guide is in the public download section.

If you're just running a relay, tap into the power feed for one of the headlights. When the light is turned on, the relay will actuate. I wouldn't use that feed to run anything else though.

Oh, and be sure to add a fuse.

That won't work on my car, the voltage is not constant at the headlight. See the attached photo... all the relay did was buzz!

The clutch is hydraulic so there is technically no adjustment possible. There is however, a small amount of adjustment in the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

Not as much as you would like but there is a little there.

I've read on another site somebody suggested that you get adjustability by introducing a bit of air to the clutch hydraulic system. (press pedal a bit, open bleeder, let pedal go, repeat till the engagement is where you want it). That would lower the engagement point... Is that possible? I can see this working if it weren't shared with the brakes, but if it is, then it's dangerous....

Also read that clutch wear - on a hydraulic system - has nothing to do with engagement point...

My clutch doe snot slip at all... I just dislike the fact that it engages so high off the floor. I drove a new 987 that did not do that, but never drove a new 996. Where does it grab on the pedal travel when new ?

Thanks !

Your description sounds just like my old 986 (my03), grabbed just at the end of the travel, prognosis by the dealer: time for a new clutch!

As a comparison, I recently bought a new 987, and the clutch is wonderful, engages about midway through the pedal travel, waaaay easier to modulate the clutch release!

I wouldn't recommend introducing air into the hydraulic system, IMHO a bogus way to 'simulate' different clutch behaviour! The clutch hydraulic system is completely separate from the brakes, but I still would not 'repair' your clutch this way.

As for engagement point and clutch wear, you seem to be experiencing the effect of a worn clutch, so this would prove that statement to be incorrect too.

Unfortunately, I think that unless there is a problem in the clutch hydraulic system, your car looks to be in need a clutch job.

Does anybody know of a place in a 987 where I can find a signal to turn on a relay when the headlight switch is in the 'on' position?

The second best signal would be one that is only present when the engine is running.

Thanks!

If your installing a new pilot bearing, make sure you have the installation tool(to press in and out) which doubles as a clutch centering mandrel. Nice to see another islander on the board. :cheers:

Hey there, yes that is one of the reasons I put my location up... Do you have a 911 and you are you in the local club? PM if you wish.

As for the clutch job, I took the expensive way out, traded the my03 for a my06.

Hey there whitecayman, here is what I see on my car. The voltage measures out at 14v and as you can see from the picture there is a drop in voltage about every 9 milliseconds that lasts for about 1 millisecond, it is a continuous waveform who's values don't change irregardless of the headlight switch position.

I like your idea of using the original signal as a trigger. If the square wave theory is right then just bypassing it would probably bring a 'headlight out' warning or something - seems the factories want to warn of us everything! Keep me posted on the HID's! Good luck..

As for the warning message, I have never seen one yet, I have had both headlight assemblies out while the car was running, had the HID kit connected (even though it did not stay lit), and only one headlight installed, not one message.

With this type of output it is no wonder that the HID ballast doesn't stay lit, also explains the buzzing from the regular relay.

For us in Canada the other option is to set the HID kit to come on anytime the engine is running, that's what is happening now anyway! <_<

Picked up link from UK website;

2008 Boxster

Interesting, too bad the pictures aren't too clear, would have like to seen a better shot of the front LED's I wonder when Porsche will finally direct inject the H6, should easily take it above 300HP... That's what I would like to see!

The other interesting thing about that website is the disparaging comments about the Boxster in general, obviously not too well thought of by some of the posters! Appearently I drive a chick's car! <_<

Lastly, nothing against the 'other' Porsches but the reason I bought the Boxster over any other Porsche was because I wanted a roadster.

And the catch is..... PCM.

In a way they are correct, but in the same way they are wrong. The only system they sell that supports MP3 is the full PCM kit. Again, only MY05 onwards plays MP3's too. It seems those cars prior to this date AND with PCM aren't able to do it either. :(

Regards

Popolou

Ahhh, that figures, if I am ever able to order a new p-car it sure would be nice to have all of this spelled out because as you know adding some of this later can way too expensive! <_<

I read this in the specs for the Boxster (posted in the Auto Mall USA)...

-Manufacturer's own RDS audio system with digital radio and CD player CD player reads MP3

Am I missing something here, does the CD have to be in a specific format for this to work?

WC - from scanning some other forums, the Porsche system may be using electronic switching which may not put out a nice straight DC output. For instance, the circuitry may put out a low voltage square wave when running the DRL's and switch to a higher voltage, but still running a square wave of the same duration, or increase the duty cycle of the square wave, to produce the required higher light output for the full strenght headlight. In either case, the HID's see a square wave and are therefore getting turned on and off many times/sec and don't like this as it extinguishes the arc but doesn't allow enough time to reignite. Bottom line is to find that electronic box and bypass it. I'd be surprised if one of the mfr's or dealers of HID's haven't come across this problem before. Hope this helps in your search for an answer - I'm intrigued by this too and will follow up more and publish a more definitive answer if I find it.............The square wave scenario might be consistent with the inability to trigger the relay also.........

Wow, first post and an excellent one at that! Welcome to the forum as well.

After some discussions with the gang at work yesterday we thought that this might be the case as well. The voltage as measured with a multimeter was consistant with the battery voltage ~ 14.4v with the engine on. With regards to the relay, when the DRL was active the frequency of the buzz was lower then it was with the headlight switch on. My plan today was to bring home the scope to "see" what the voltage actually looked like. Your hypothesis about a square wave makes sense, quite the solution for DRL's but hey, these cars are quite advanced in many ways.

What I was thinking was designing a circuit that could sense (read) this voltage and trigger a switch that activates the HID ballasts. It might even be possible to descriminate between the low duty cycle signal and the full on duty cycle and keep the headlights off thereby keeping the headlight off until the headlight switch is moved to the full on position.

So, assuming that your ID is the same as you ride and you don't have factory HID, you would be in the same boat as I am should you be considering a DIY upgrade...

Some brain storming could be in order :thumbup:

Due to the lack of success and interest in the DIY HID project on my Canadian spec 2006 Boxster, I am now investigating the installation of the factory Litronic (Bi-Xenon) kit.

Is this a DIY project, it may help is to know what is done (by the dealer) when you add Porsche's own Litronic assemblies?

Has anybody added Litronics to a 987 and know what is in the kit, and what any instructions that may come with the kit say? I did find a Porsche installation document for the 986, does anybody have the equivelant for a 987?

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Looking for the kit part number or the right/left light part numbers to achieve the same.

Thanks

Well I did some more testing, confirmed that the HID would still not light even if the headlight switch was set to the full on position. I also checked to see if the stock wires would operate a standard 12v relay, answer: no (verified for all headlight switch positions). All it did was buzz as if there was not enought current to pick the coil. (I tested the relay directly on the battery and it responded fine)

With these findings, and unless I get some evidence otherwise, I would have to conclude that the Canadian 987's that come equiped with regular halogen bulbs will not easily be converted to HID using an after market HID kit.

The only thing that may help is to know what is done (by the dealer) when you add Porsche's own Litronic assemblies.

Has anybody added Litronics to a 987 and know what is in the kit, and what any instructions that may come with the kit say?

Thanks in advance for any replies!

I had a similar experiance with my 2003, a clunk from the rear going over bumps. I didn't see this mentioned, but the mechanic at the dealer said that there was a TSB about the rear upper strut bushing/mount and that they were replaced under warranty. FYI

That did not fix the problem which ended up being the trailing link bushings (in may case on the drivers side).

Just wanted to bump this up to the top......anyone tried the Scosche unit??? The stealership that I'm getting my Boxster from said that they can do an in-line fm transmitter instillation for me for a cool $799. I'm gonna hold out for a bit and see what else is out there for cheaper.

Jonesy, these Scosche units are less the $30, I'd have one already if they were available locally. With this available why would you even consider spending $800??

As soon as I can find an online source with reasonable shipping to Canada, I'll be ordering one.