Westcoaster

Al, i hope you get the right answer from CQL

I remember hids4u did have addiitonal solutions on their website a few months ago - it may be they are out of stock. Perhaps its still worth an email to ask their advice, if nothing else to compare against what CQL tell you.

Best of luck :thumbup:

Thanks... hey, I wonder if removing the DRL relay would cure this problem, not sure if I really want to do this but neither you or Alan (987 Boxster S) have a problem with your HID's. Not sure where the relay hides or if this requires dealer/computer intervention?

The upside would be no DRL to burn the bulb out early! :rolleyes:

Al, you have email

for those ina similar predicament there are solutions int he form of additional wiring harnesses, or most likely in line resistors to fool the cars diagnostics.

In the uk these people are about the best seller, they have fitted loads of kits themselves to all sorts of vehicles - a quick browse through the FAQ and customer reviews section should identify any issues you are likely to experience.

www.hids4u.co.uk

Thanks for the link, I did read about "hids4u" special kit for the Porsche, it has circuitry built into the ballast for DRL cars. They don't however appear to offer any other solution on their site.

I read on another site that the DRL circuit on some cars limit the current during DRL operation. This might explain why the initial current required to fire the HID kit is not available (they flicker and go out) yet the DRL circuit will happily supply current to a standard halogen bulb.

The solution may be to have the headlight circuit operate a relay that in turn powers the HID ballast. The 'special optional wiring harness' shown in the instructions show just this kind of set-up. I have already sent an email to CQ Light about this harness, my hope is they will provide it free and that as per the illustration it comes with all of the water tight connection specific to the HID kit I have.

I could check and see if I have some 12v relays to test this theory but the connectors used in my kit would be impossible to find and the warranty will be voided if I cut any of the wires.

Interesting to note 2 things: that even with only one HID kit installed, I did not get any indication from the OBC that I had a lamp failure. One good thing! The other is that when the car is turned on the regular halogen bulbs come on no matter where the headlight switch is positioned, and no change in the light brightness can be decerned when the switch position is changed...?

HID Update.

I knew that this was not going to be this easy!

Daytime Running Lights!!! Canadian models have them, and appearently they don't work well with HID kits...

They flicker a bit when the car is turned on then go out. The sheet that came with the kit say's you need a special relay harness...

Darn, a 'special' harness no less, sounds expensive.

When CQ get back online I will have to inquire about this fix... until then halogens burn bright!

Hey, do you think that it time that they (Porsche) moved the sensitive and expensive electronics packages up out of the bilge!

****, I wonder if they know that these are convertibles? :rolleyes:

Definitely need to be aware of water getting into the cabin...

Donald, you might be right, I plan to mention this to them the next time I am at the dealrship, too bad that on a car of the level we have to be the one searching out the repair actions!

It is great to have a forum for these things! :renntech:

Westcoaster,

I know what you mean. I have not done a visual inspection just because I guess I have gotten lazy AND I live in a condo and sorely miss my garage where I used to do my tinkering. I am not cerain that TSB 1726 describes the same noise I hear but it seems close enough and worth a try.

So yours does make the noise even when the engine is at full operating temp? That's different than mine. As for why updates are not installed when you purchase the car, that's a good question. I had to take mine back in to have the key programmed. The other key didn't work at all and the battery had to be replaced. While that was being done they made 2 additional "updates", one to the windstop and one other to add a shield to prevent rubbing against a hose. Why these things discussed/addressed before delivery of the vehicle, I don't know.

I'll take the Boxster in for the update tomorrow (12/27) and I'll post the results. The strange thing is that I have not heard the noise now for the last 4 or 5 days. It's just gone.....

Yes, it makes the noise when warm, I would take the car in for them to look/listen but I don't have a lot of confidence in their diagnostic skills! Once took them 4 trys replacing 3 other parts before acting on my original suggestion that the clunk on my 2003 Boxster was a trailing arm, not the shock, bushing, bolts...

Please do let me know what they find, I might still have to crawl in their myself!

I just saw my first Chrysler Crossfire convertible yesterday, commented to my wife how similar the back end was to the Cayman, Tool Pants, you picture proves it...

I read both this thread and the linked one, and neither fix seem to apply to the noise I hear in my car. I am not sure if it is related.

My car has 700km on it and I just noticed the noise yesterday, a bearing or metalic scraping noise that begins to be noticable at about 1500RPM and is engine speed related. I didn't notice this before and it happens when it is warm.

Could this be the same problem? I would have thought that a car as new as this would have the updated part talked about in the other thread?

****, the fact that the engine is such a bugger to get to prevents me from looking for some of these noises!

The auto dimming feature applies to all 3 rear view mirrors, you would have to check with the dealer, but I would guess that all of the wiring should be there, the worst would be the cost of the peices (usually more then the option as an order) and if there is any re-programing to the OBC (not likely).

I have it on my 987 and think that it is a great option, it was packaged with the rain sensor, also a neat feature.

Great!, I haven't even received them and they have dropped $20 in price! <_<

Now on $179.99 for the kit...

Also I see they are offering 'digital ballasts', maybe (as usual) I should have waited!?

They should be here any day now (in time for Christmas!), ordered 5000k models from CQ Light, For those interested I'll post my installation and results here.

OK, now this is strange!:

2. After driving around town for 30mins and leaving my car I can smell a burning type smell coming from the driver side vent on the outside of the car, any ideas?

I have a new (600km's) 2006 and I smell the same thing when I get out of the car, I thought it was the newness of the rear pads and calipers heating up?

I don't notice if it is all of the time though, you know how it is as soon as I decide to drop by the dealer it won't be doing it.

I use two of them placed in the top 2 holes and this makes this even easier, this also lines up the center hole. By the way they are of different lengths to make it easier to get the wheel on to both the pins.

My new Boxster (2006) didn't come with an alignment tool or a jack, the theory is you take your car in for such things! :cursing:

I went to dealer and ordered 2, best 20 bucks I have spent so far on this car...

If I remember correctly the finish on my03 (non S) calipers was not paint but actually anodized aluminum, but the dye color was black that's why they look slightly different.

Now that your's are weathered they may look slightly silver.

Al,

That explains why I could not tell the original color. Great explanation--Thanks. Still can't decide what I want to do with them if anything.

Warren

Glad to be of help!

You could have them re-anodized but that would be a lot of work, by nature of it's process anodizing requires that the aluminum be clean and no other materials present, steel, rubber etc. and protect any surface you don't want etched by the acid. This means that you would not only have to remove them from the car but strip them of all attached 'bits'. Probably why most people end up painting them.

The Porsche OEM red for the 'S' and yellow for the PCCB calipers could be paint or powder coating, not sure as I am not lucky enough to have ether of these systems.

After following instructions in manual several times, I gave up.

It worked after garage door guy programmed it for me (with totally different way), but it stopped working after a week or so.

Did I miss something or should I see my dealer.

Any 987/997 owners have same experience??

I hope not because I have big plans for HomeLink! :huh:

How about getting the garage door back to re-program, this time taking notes? Could it be the opener and not the car?

If I remember correctly the finish on my03 (non S) calipers was not paint but actually anodized aluminum, but the dye color was black that's why they look slightly different.

Now that your's are weathered they may look slightly silver.

I had a my03 Boxster with Conti 2's and now I have a my06 with PS2's... both factory spec'd tires

They are both good tires, a good comparison test can be found at this link, but to spill the beans right now the Conti 2's came in ahead of the PS2's, both tires faired well but had somewhat different strengths, either way you can't go wrong with either.

Have a read: http://www.caranddriver.com/features/10252...-the-tread.html

Here is the post I was talking about

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=27952

I guess a little experimenting is in order, the second to last post in the thread you referenced kind of sums it up: Thanks for supplying the link.

I just did this today and found that a combination of the rubber plugs and adjustment of the latch module allowed my front trunk to close alot easier.

The latch is very similar to the latch used on the 986 and 996. There is a DIY adjustment procedure in the 996 DIY Common Fixes section.

But... since the car is under warranty why not let your dealer fix it?

Thanks, I read the DIY's and I didn't see anything about how to adjust the latch?

To answer your question.

It has been my experiance in the last 30+ years of vehicle ownership that if the repair is simple and requires a little patience and maybe a dab of lubricant it usually much safer to do-it-yourself. I have had to many 'easy' repairs that have gone sideway's making me wish that I had left it all alone! I will take the time and do it right, a tech under the gun, or having a bad day, may not.

Example? I had my Astro Van in for an oil change, when I called in to make sure it was ready before I picked it up, I was sheepishly informed by the service manager that they had placed the lift pads on the rocker panels and crushed them in 4 places!!! OMG! because of an oil change!? :censored:

Some things are best left alone, or should that read; some things are best left at home?

On my06, the rear trunk lid shuts very easily, just a gentle push down with flat palms or even a couple of fingers and it's latched.

But, the front is a different story, the latch requires at least 3-4 times the pressure to close, so much so that I fear that over time I will end up with dents where I am pushing to close it, makes me afraid to open it unless absolutely necessary!

Is there some way to adjust or some point to lubricate the mechanism to make this latch as easy to close as the rear one?

Thanks!

Porsche takes the safe approach by recommending that you replace the tire rather then repair it, and of course any real damage to the sidewall should mandate a replacement as well.

If you have a reputable tire shop to deal with, and they use the correct process where the tire is dismounted from the rim and the appropriate patch is used you should be good for use at reasonable speeds. The way it was told to me was that the speed rating is compromised but you would be fine at all legally posted speeds in North America.

BTW, I read in the owners manual that Porsche allows for up to a 30% varience in tread depth on an axle pair.

I bought a hard top from ebay, as the windows fitted absolutely perfectly to the soft top, I adjusted the window seals on the hard top to the windows, not the other way round. My car is Meridian Silver (try getting one in that colour...) so had it painted. I've had it painted twice now and it still looks wrong. All cars I've seen in Meridian have a very slight pinky/purple hue to them in sunlight and I just can't get this on the top. Perhaps its because the spray shops use computer mixed colours rather than genuine paints from Porsche(?)

Incidentally, the top was originally Speed Yellow - I must say this definitely doesn't go with Meridian! :rolleyes: I had to transport the top 100 miles home - it wouldn't fit in the back of my Audi so I had to drive my Boxster down and back with the yellow top on. It was done under the cover of darkness...

You have likely hit the nail on the head about the paint, When a body shop matches paint they do so using the formula or a colour analyzer that reads the colour in an artificial light. The

slight pinky/purple hue to them in sunlight

A couple of years ago I had my RX-7 painted, it is Brave Blue Mica, depending on how the sun hits it varies from straight blue through royal blue to almost a blue magenta. Just before it was to painted I asked various shops, those that were completely honest told me that they could only get close, best off painting the entire car, others said no problem! :huh:

Every paint manufacturer has different paint compositions, not to mention the different types of paint, acrylic, enamel or lacquer etc, a perfect match will only come from using the exact same paint applied under the same atmospheric conditions (temperature and humidity), close can be achieved by a good shop that really knows their stuff. In the end, that's why quotes for a job can vary...

BTW, when I was looking for a shop, I had one even tell me 'you are too picky, we don't think we could make you happy', at least they were honest! :cheers:

When the clutch began squeaking on my 2003, the dealer said it was because the clutch had worn down and the release bearing was now traveling on a different portion of the input shaft...

For a MY06 Boxster (987):

987.803.033.02.V02 Left seatbelt in speed yellow -- MSRP CDN $330.95

987.803.034.01.V02 Right seatbelt in speed yellow -- MSRP CDN $330.95

(prices as of November 2006)

Thanks Loren,

Wow, that was quick!, expensive too! The option was only $475 CDN :censored:

I guess this is what they mean when they say " Don't build it a part at a time, it will bankrupt you! "

I wonder what Sunset Porsche can do... :)

Looking for the part number so I can get a price on 'Speed Yellow' belts for install into my Boxster.

Thanks!