Westcoaster

Hello...

I just purchased a 2006 Boxster S. Unfortunately, it does not have the Xenon headlights. Does anyone know of a good retrofit kit out there? There are many available on the 'Net. I would like a recommendation if anyone has had experience with this purchase.

Thank you,

Tman

Hey Tman, welcome, check out these 2 threads, remember a 987 has a different lighting circuit then a 986 so read carefully.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...1244&hl=HID

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...0247&hl=HID

Oh yeah and BTW the search function works wonders! ;)

Any auto parts store has them...for about $5. 74mm/14 flute

I know that you are in Calgary, but what autoparts store had them? (Canadian Tire, Lordco...)

I am looking for one as well.

Great idea, where did you find them? Were they expensive?

This is all I could find: http://cgi.ebay.com.hk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...;category=28645

I am looking for something like that to run off of the headlight circuit (now unused because of a HID kit), it may satisfy the computer check for the 'dipped light' message...

Where did you take the power for the lights from?

Did you just connect it to the stock wiring?

This sounds like it could be a poor ground.

BTW, the type of Boxster would be helpful too...

Direct connection to the original headlight harness. This is a 2001 986 (non-S) with stock headlights. If gound was faulty, I doubt that headlights lights would work perfectly??????????

Thanks, Bob

The question about the ground was to indicate that you should ensure that your new connections are all solid, ie. have a good ground. In fact what I would suggest is that you try both of the following as a process of elimination:

1) re-install the stock bulbs and see if the problem persists (if it doesn't it would obviously be what was added...)

2) try a temporary fused line directly from the battery to power the ballasts (if you have don't see a problem, again it is what has been added).

westcoaster, the same thing happened to me and it ended up being the power steering fluid (I cant remeber correctly), but DO go to the dealership to have them take a look at.

I'll ask about that, thanks!

Thanks, OK I move forward then...

I can get the oil at a NAPA store, but the filter will have to come from the dealer.

Actually it is a filter and sealing washer right?

1 ea 996.107.225.53 filter plus o-ring

1 ea 900 123 106 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring

As long as you follow the manufacturer's interval and use spec parts they have no claim to deny you warranty.

So the recommended interval can be taken as a minimum, changing the oil/filter twice as often is not frowned upon?

Part of the reason for asking is the dealer charges $385 for an oil/filter change.

Given that I used Mobil 1 0w40 and a factory oil filter would changing the oil/filter early (15k km's versus 30k km's) void the factory warranty?

Would they even know unless I tell them?

I was thinking of doing it now at 15k km and just before the 30k km service...

thanks

I personally would only use the Porsche part - it's only about 30 cents. I would hate to lose all of my oil because of something like that.

1 ea 900 123 106 30 Aluminum Sealing Ring

Is this the same part that would be used on a MY06 2.7l Boxster?

I installed the kit from CQ Light. Nice light. Work just fine............except...........when I turn on my headlights with the engine running my oil pressure and battery idiot light light up (sometimes just the oil pressure light), and I have to stop and restart the car. If I turn on the headlights before starting the car, all works as it should.

I really don't think that this EVER happened before doing the HID mod. Just an annoyance. I'm sure that turning on my headlights is not droppong my oil pressure <_< . But I dont dare drive around with that light on. Mnnn. I wonder if it will come on if I really DO loose oil pressure.

Any toughts on this weird problem????

Bob

ps I like that LED parking light hack just posted. That original bulb sure is yellow.

Where did you take the power for the lights from?

Did you just connect it to the stock wiring?

This sounds like it could be a poor ground.

BTW, the type of Boxster would be helpful too...

Thanks!

Still wonder about this, doesn't seem to be related to temperature, sure reminds me of the feel when a power sterring pump is working hard at wheel lock...

Westcoaster, I can't see how Porsche would void a warranty for changing the oil more often than required, but I do think changing the oil every 3,000 miles for example could in fact increase wear.

I agree with many others that one a year or every 7-10,000 miles, whichever happens first, is the better plan.

Now, people who do DE's and etc do a different schedule, and probably should.

Agreed, so now I am just searching for a filter and the oil, off to WalMart at lunch to see what they have, here in Canada they also have a store, Canadian Tire, they carry Mobil 1 as well, but I have yet to see it in the gallon jug, only quart (liter) sizes.

The stealer probably wants an arm and a leg for the filter! Every time I buy a part from them I check the price list before I go and they consistantly charge more then the MSRP for parts, sometimes a lot more! I wouldn't be surprised to find that it is over $30...

yes $$$$$, but wow, what a nice job, I saw it this year at Parade, and if you are driving your car all year and wish that during the rainy season or (Brrrrrrr!) snow that a hard top would be nice, this would be the one I would get!

AFAIK not quite yet there for the 987...

This is very interesting, since this is the first 'new' Porsche that I have owned, and am taking through break-in I was wondering the same thing. They spec the first oil change at what 30,000 km or 2 years which ever comes first!

I am coming up to one year and 15,000 km and wondering about flushing that 'break-in' oil and debris out...

Considering that the kinematic viscosity was out of spec at only 7500 miles, I wouldn't wait 2 years or 30000km to change the oil!!! Once a year or 10000 miles is a good oil change interval -- Mercedes recommends this for all their AMG motors and 13000 miles for all other models, and when I had an 03 E320 prior to my Box, I changed the oil when the inboard computer said so (approx 15000 miles) and the TBN value was at 2.6. I don't know for a fact, but I would speculate that the TBN would fall dangerously below 2.0 when hitting 20000 miles.

If you're leasing your car, I would stay with the factory recommendation, but if you own the car and want to keep it for a while, go with 7500 mile but not more than 10000 mile intervals -- my opinion.

BTW, the PCA tech list on their website recommends 7500 mile changes.

Sorry I didn't express everything in metric units.

Regards,

paul....

Thanks for the detailed reply Paul, although I would one day like to move up to a 'S', for now this is what I have so taking care of it is important.

I do agree that 7500 miles or not more then 10000 miles is much more realistic a change interval. I just past the 1/2 way mark specified in the manual for the change interval, so as long as I can find the oil and filter I think that it would be a good idea to do it now. There is lots of 5w30 Mobil 1 available locally, but 0w40 is tougher to find...

BTW, as for the units of measure, no worries, I am equally conversant in both!

Last thing, are there any issues with the factory warranty by changing the oil more often?

Does this happen when you approach full lock on either extreme?

It seems to be more related to driving slow then turning the wheel quickly.

Today if I can get out in the car, I will try and see if there is a difference at

with the wheels straight ahead and then turn or if it comes on as the wheels

approach lock.

( BTW, on another topic, still playing with the dash...)

Al

On my 2006, when I turn the wheel as I start to pull away from a curb or turn out of a parking spot at low speed, I notice a 'shudder' almost as it the power steering is not able to keep up with the request from the steering wheel.

It will also do this if as you come to a stop and just be fore the car stops rolling, you quickly turn the wheel in preparation for a sharp turn.

It is difficult to describe and if I need to have the dealer look at it I want to be able to correctly describe the problem or re-create it for the service tech.

Thanks!

Looking for the part number for the oil filter for my 2006 non S

Thinking of changing the oil early at 15,000 km's (1year)...

Thanks

[One other item that I recently added to my carry on bag, a wheel bolt alignment tool. It's a brass rod about 8" long that screwss into one of the lug bolt holes and allows you to hang the wheel onto it while alinging the rest of the lug bolts on. Makes reinstalling a wheel a snap. Since it's brass it doesn't scratch the rims. You can get it from Performance, here;s the link. worth every penny.

http://www.automotion.com/productpage.aspx...amp;part=196834

Doesn't this come with some of our tool-kits? Is this in the 987 Boxster? Thanks.

I have a 986 S (2002) which I purchased this year and it did not have this. If it came with the car's tool kit the original owner took it with him. I can see why.

I found one here:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...y_Code=POTEBXWH

Definitely not on my 987, likely not since they removed the spare tire and jack!

I bought 2 though, makes hanging the tires/wheel assembly a whole lot easier!

Thanks for the reply Pop, I sent you a PM...

Nick, I saw the SE in the local showroom yesterday, I must retract my comment about not liking the orange, it is much like the intensity of the speed yellow (which I have), actually looks nice.

The non-S here has 18" Cayman wheels on it, black accented but the top surface of each of the spoke is silver, black mirrors and of course the Boxster logo is black.

What I especially liked was the look of the orange accents inside the cockpit, nice touch! Also the Alcantra (sp?) on the seat surfaces, the handbrake, the shifter and boot, and the steering wheel.

Oh yeah, and I really like the rear facia/spoiler treatment, very cool!

I need to take apart the console around the shifter as well, when you say:

The changes:

The leather boot is now held down by screws, you cannot just pop it off. Instead, you must take the two sides off the console (which themselves are held in by two screws in the back), separate the two parts of the leather boot surround (the lower alumilook piece is what is screwed in, the upper interior-colored piece is not), remove the screws, and then go forward.

Do you have pictures of the partial dissasembly? I don't see how to remove the side of the console, I saw the screws but even with them out it didn't want to budge...

Any help appreciated!

If your interaction and interests in Porsche's only goes as far as driving around by yourself and you have no interest in hanging out with like minded car enthusiasts then I would say don't bother. This is not to say that non-PCA Porsche events don't exist, their are many none club opportunities as well.

If on the other hand like to attend organized events where people who loves Porsche's get together and share their enthusiasm for the marquee, find excuses to drive hundreds of miles just to have lunch and then home again with a new excuse to wash their car... or want access to awesome events like the annual Porsche Parade then a $42 membership is a pretty reasonable fee. This gives you entrance into local club events as well as reciprocal access to other regions and their events. And if you don't find yourself either enjoying it or find you don't participate much, don't renew.

For me it has been a hoot, we've been to Parade, Driver's Education sessions and on many fun runs for breakfast and lunches, probably lot's of events and destinations that would have never normally gone to. I have owned other 'popular' cars, but the Porsche club's organization has been the reason to get out and enjoy the ownership experience more then any other vehicle I have owned in that past 33 years!

Another thing that cones with the membership is contact with techs at PCA (although this forum does an excellent job), some additional resources on the PCA website, a subscription to Christophorus (quarterly) and Panorama (monthly) and even a cool membership sticker for the car just to name a few more benefits.

For me, in the end, it has been the great people that I have met and made friends with.

I guess another way to look at it is for me to ask, "what do you expect to get out of the PCA membership"? Since I have only been a member for a year, I certainly don't have all the answers, but I may be able to provide some.

My advice is to be very very careful.

A new PIWIS from Porsche is $18,000.

There have been many software updates - so check the version.

There is one on eBay right now for $20,000 (the price is ridiculous because it is higher than US list).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-PIW...1QQcmdZViewItem

Yeah and how about the number of sales this guy has made not to mention the catchy name! ;-)

Meet the seller

Seller: ferrari_599_gtb_fiorano( 0 )

Member: since Dec-01-06 in Philippines

I installed the kit from CQ Light just like 986JIM that started this thread. Good light, not too difficlut to do.

But the light pattern leaves something to be desired. My light pattern has "cat ears" to the right of each beam like in niebyl2002 's picutres, but they are closer together and higher. Adjusting light height is easy, BUT PORSCHE'S GOT TO BE KIDDING ABOUT THOSE LATERAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS. I wound them in and out for several turns in each direction while aiming them at a fence, and they move the beam UP & DOWN only. Not a pinch to the right or left.

I'm wondering what a SHIM washer between the bulb seat and the lamp housing would do.....This shim would pull the bulbs rearward a bit out of that little canister that it is inserted into, and would affect the light pattern for sure. But how??? I'm tempted to carefully make a single shim perhaps of some easy material like cardboard just to experiment.

Any experience or thoughts on this idea.

Bob

Hmmm, no re-alignment necessary when I installed my kit from CQ. This was into a 987, the original light cutoff and the new HID pattern location did not change at all. Did you make sure the bulb was positioned correctly?

What year of Boxster (style of lights)?

Paul, another good reason to change the factory fill early. Do you agree with this strategy? I did the first oil change at about 1,300 miles.

I believe that it's a good idea to change the factory fill early (earlier than what the manufacturer recommends for a first oil change), but I wouldn't do at 1300 like you did. This is because I've seen two independent articles disputing the 3000 mile oil change as the oil needs to be "broken in" and most wear occurs between 1000-2000 miles after the oil change. I would go with an initial change somewhere between 3000-5000 miles -- mind you, this isn't based on any scientific evidence, only my opinion. I did mine at 7500 miles because I've decided that this will be my change interval. My reasoning is that I'm driving in commuter traffic on a highway with my work about 25 miles away, so I have concerns about moisture in the oil not evaporating. Considering oils (i.e., Motul 8100 series, RedLine, etc) that have a lot of esters in them tend to hold water more than mineral/PAO based oils.

Regards,

paul...

This is very interesting, since this is the first 'new' Porsche that I have owned, and am taking through break-in I was wondering the same thing. They spec the first oil change at what 30,000 km or 2 years which ever comes first!

I am coming up to one year and 15,000 km and wondering about flushing that 'break-in' oil and debris out...