bjarne996

What about other aftermarket alternatives that maintains or improves the inital bite while preferably reducing dust?

Anybody with any experience?

Thanks,

Bjarne

What is the OEM brake pad compound the 2010 3,8 without PCCB brakes?

Is it Pagid Yellow RS19?

Thanks,

Bjarne

I sent you a PM.

Thanks!

So the cable is broken - not the connector at the bottom of the shifter?

Yes, it snapped right off close to the rigid part at the gearbox end.

Sad it was not the plastic connection, really, as I had a replacement 997 shifiting mechanism ready for installation.

Snapped my shift cable changing from 3rd to 4th while trying to keep a 997S gen2 PDK behind me this week-end.

Had the cable not snapped during my gearchange, I think I might have approached the PDK shifting speed .

Anyway, does anybody have a writeup for changing the shifting cable? I have removed the center console by following the B&M short shifter installation guide.

Any input appreciated.

Thanks,

Bjarne

Hi there. It takes guts, but yes, the trans mount can be done as a DIY.

Here's how I did it.

http://www.renntech....226#entry180226

Puuuh,

That seems like a lot of work! I'll think I'll strart with the engine mounts first and hopefully that will cure the problems :-)

Thanks!

Bjarne

Both will help with the problem.

:oops: Do you mean that the x51 oil pan on its own will improve the situation, but not cure it competely?

(Sorry if I go on here, just want to make sure I understand you correctly)

The best solution would be to find a used GT3 to race.

:thumbup:

Yes the statement on the X51 sump kit is correct.

To add the additional pump requires removing the cylinder head and doing some machining - or buying a pre-machined cylinder head for X51. So this is much more than add-on parts.

Does the X51 kit work better than the LNegineering kit?

Hard to say - the LNengineering provided extra sump capacity that one hope would make up for the slow return from the cylinder head. The factory X51 kit uses a pump to the return the oil and does not increase capacity.

I guess machining the cyl head a much bigger job than I am prepared to take on.

If I understand you correct adding the x51 oil pan on its own will not reduce oil starvation issues on my 3,4?

Should I get the LN enginnering deep sump kit instead?

Thanks,

Bjarne

Hi,

I have a 1998 996 C2 6-speed that shifts sideways when letting go of the accellerator after a full throttle acceleration. The car milage is approx 40 000.

I have ordered new RS engine mounts, but wonder if I should also change the transmission mount just to be sure.

Anybody know the transmission mount part no?

Is changing the transmission mount a DIY job??

Thanks,

Bjarne

I have a 1998 996C2 3,4 with the following chassis upgrades:

-PSS10 coilovers

-GT3 sways

I use GT3 street wheel alignments.

To avoid the added G forces possible with these upgrades leading to oil starvation I have ordered an x51 oil pan from Suncoast.

However, I've just read that LNengineering claims that the x51 oil pan does not improve the situation unless the additional x51 oil pump and suction pipes are also used.

Is this really so, or is LNenginnering making a case for their own deep sump kit?

Have anybody installed the addtional X51 parts:

Pump: 996.107.980.00

Suction Pipe: 99610798402

?

Thanks,

Bjarne

I want to use GT3 sway bars on my 1998 996 C2 with PSS10 coilovers.

The cheapest front adjustable drop links I have found is DesignTek, available at £46,50 from Design911: http://www.design911.com/Porsche/996...-cmo110-ct345/

Do you need new droplinks both front and rear? Where can reasonably priced rear droplinks be obtained?

Thanks,

Bjarne

I've just received my new FVD stainless steel header purchased on ebay. :) Unfortunately, there seems to be a small crack about an inch long in one of the downpipes. :(

Does anyone have any experience with welding SS headers?

Can this be performed so that the repair lasts, considering that the header may reach temperatures making it glow yellow during hard driving?

Thanks,

Bjarne

Hi,

interesting theory....

I have the ROW M030 with 17" 225/45/17 and 255/40/17.... when my rears wear I will get 265/40/17 - the ROW 030 kit dials out some of the nasty understeer found on the 911 ... but going 285 is pretty wide... you think the car will be faster with 285 in acceleration.... what percentage difference in diameter exists between 285 and 265?

I have 265/35- 18, for which 285/30-18 is a Porsche approved alternative.

Tire height is a percentage of its width, hence two "tire heights" in addition to the rim size will give total wheel/tire diameter.

The circumference is PI (~3,14) times the diameter.

The circumference of the 265/35 should be:

PI * (2 * 26,5 cm * 35% + 18" * 2,54 cm) = 201,91 cm

The circumference of the 285/30 should be:

PI * (2* 28,5 cm * 30% + 18" * 2,54 cm) = 197,35 cm

Hence replacing the 265/35-18 with 285/30-18 will reduce rolling distance by approx 2,3%.

going wider in the rear will give you more understeer... stay with 265 in the rear

EURO M030 and GT3 sway bars are an excellent combination.... but stay away from the 285 in the rear... it will make your car slower as those tires weigh more *and* create more friction.... Michelin PS2 is a nice 18" tire that is lightweight for 265 size...

Yes, the wider rears will give more understeer, that what I wanted to counter-act with the adjustable sways.

The wider tires will provide more lateral grip, and thereby allow slightly higher corner exit speeds.

I do not think the weight difference will play make any measurable difference in how fast the car is or feels. If anything the slightly smaller tire circumference of the 285/30 compared to the 265/35 will make the car accellerate better!

Anyway, have you got the M030 / GT3 Sways combo on your car?

Did it turn over on the bench before it was fitted to the car?

Yes it did. I just opened the transmission bolts a bit, and the engine turns over again, when I tightened them again, the engine was seized.

If you have not solved the problem yet, you can contact FVD that sells and installs a 3.8 conversion kit for the 996:

http://shop.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/996-14/...28355HP%29.html

This package includes an installation kit that may contain what you need.

Good luck!

Bjarne

I have a 1998 996 C2 with standard european suspension and 265/35-18 rear tires.

In order to improve grip and handling I am considering changing to:

-285/30 rear tires

-Euro M030 springs/shocks

-GT3 adjustable anti sway bars

I am thinking about the GT3 swaybars since I want to use the wider rear tires, but do not want any more understeer!

Has anybody got any experience with this combination?

Porsche sells plugs for switches, and the electrical pins.

This one I bought as a VW part because it was cheaper.

Thanks!

I was sure it had to be aval somewhere - dont know why my local Porsche dealer told me it was unavailable....

Anyway, since I did not know better, I made my own by using insulated cable shoes and moulding them into epoxy. The result is as good as the original solution, except that you can see it is not original...

I connected the swich light to the electrical pins inside the plug of the neighbouring plug. I opend the plug "flap" and extracted the electrical pin by pressing a small screwdriver in between the flat side of the electrical pin (cable shoe) and the plastic plug wall, while pulling the pin out. Once out it was easy to connect an extra wire by soldering on to the electrical pin. In this way I avoided having to cut the wires to make the reqired connections.

Bjarne

Hello, I am interested in changing my 996 3.4 to a 3.6 or 3.8 but I am being told that there is wiring issues. Would it be economical just to get another 3.4 motor and have it sleeved and bored to 3.8 saving the wiring headache or the wiring issues with the 3.6 and 3.8 are not that serious? If anyone went through this help and advise would greatly be appreciated.

FVD offers a 3.8 conversion:

https://shop.fvd.de/?VID=216415&VCD=868...y=&CarYear=

But not exactly cheap....

Bjarne

Does anybody know where to obtain a harness that will allow professional wiring connections to the original dashboard switch?

I want to install a dashboard spoiler switch, but would like to do this more professionally than just to connect separate cable shoes to the switch.

Preferably I would like to obtain the harness that holds all the switch connections, but my local Porsche dealer tells me they only sell the complete wiring harness for about $750 :eek:

If Porsche does not sell the switch harness separately, does anybody know:

- who the manufacturer is?

or preferably

- can they be bought elsewhere?

:help:

Thanks,

Bjarne

RandalJ,

That is a great looking car! I too have a 99 Zenith Blue coupe...and I live in Gilbert! Small world, I've yet to see another zb 996 in the flesh (I've seen a few boxsters). I'll post a picture of mine later today. A zenith blue-only fun drive would be a hoot (although my dad, who is the proud owner of a polar silver 02 c2, and my mom, with her titanium cayenne turbo might want in on the fun too). I'm always messing with my car, that is really a large part of the fun for me, and it really surpises my wife as I was not really too interested in "wrenching" before I started buying Porsches (I have previously owned a 98 boxster and 01 Boxster S--both awesome cars, but the 911 is great because I can put my two little ones in the back and they love it!). On mine I have done the following: oil and oil filter changes, replaced serpentine belt, replaced cracked coolant tank, replaced fuel filter, installed painted center console, installed painted dash strips (not nearly as tough as everyone says) and ignition surround, installed guage trim rings (from bumperplugs.com), swapped out the black carrerra emblem for silver (stunning change in my opinion). I also had the K & N air intake "expiriment for a while before my mass air flow sensor crapped out. I've also cleaned out my radiators (with bumper removal to be thorough). My most recent mod, and one that is a must in my opinion, is the later-style dual in-dash cup holders that install in the spot of the HVAC controls (you move that to the bottom bin, just like the 01's.

My future mod's will likely include some H&R springs and some aluminium pedals, maybe I'll try the EVO intake kit as they seem to be a little easier on the mass air flow sensors. I've also been contemplating an exhuast as I installed a GHL unit on my dad's car it it really sounds mean. Feel free to p.m me if you have any questions. I just love these cars, and by the way, Renntech has literally saved me thousands of dollars and many, many trips to a dealer, it is an awesome resource. For example, the dealer wanted something like $600+ to swap in a new coolant take and I got the instructions here, and the part for cheap from sunset motorsports (board sponsor) and did it myself in a few hours.

Hi!

I have a 98 cobalt blue 996 C2 and would love to have the new in-dash cup holders installed in my car, which has a dashboard layout similar to this:

Is it possible to:

-remove the cd holder

-move the heating controls down in place of the cd holder

-install the dual cup holders in place of the heating controls

??

Or is it possible to simply replace the cd holder with the dual cup holders????

Finally, how complex/time consuming is the installation?

Thanks,

Bjarne

Thanks Paul,

I managed to install the two 42w ballasts on the "shelf" next to the wing, fixing them together and placing them sideways. I attaced them to the shelf using double sided tape as well as some silicone, in case the tape loosens with time.

I now enjoy my 98 996 C2 with bi-xenons!

Bjarne

I am just about to start installing 42w HID conversion kits on my 996. It would be really helpful with some tips on the placement of the ballasts and the igniters. Did you manage to find room for them inside the wing, or did you have to place them in the luggage compartment?