Andrew D.

Yes, they are two very different companies. Check out Wheel Enhancement. You will not be disappointed.

A good portion of what Wheel Enhancement sells are knock-offs, and I recently heard a very disturbing story about a set of wheels that was purchased there.

I've had nothing but excellent experience with Wheel Enhancement OEM Porsche wheels and Michelin tires. They helped me with my C4S, Boxster S and GT3. I have no affiliation with them other than being a satisfied customer.

I have only ever heard bad things about them, including from people who have worked there.

+1

Maurice,

Thank you so much! Do you happen to know a source for a photo of the part? I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct part and I've been unable to find a pic of it anywhere. None of the diagrams I've seen clearly show what it is I'm looking for.

Andrew

Andrew:

Here you go (click on it to blow it up):

Note: If you don't already have them, you will also need two "male and female" plastic buttons. Let me know if you need the part numbers for those, I have them somewhere around here.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Thank you! Those are the parts I'm looking for. You are a god. Also - Thanks for your offer on the plastic button part numbers. If you can find them without too much trouble, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Andrew

Maybe give Maurice a Rep point by clicking the plus at the bottom right of his post?

Loren,

Thanks for the reminder! Consider it done.

Andrew

Maurice,

Thank you! Those are the parts I'm looking for. You are a god. Also - Thanks for your offer on the plastic button part numbers. If you can find them without too much trouble, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Andrew

Andrew:

The "push buttons" as Porsche calls them, are part numbers 999.507.774.40 and 999.507.775.40.

You need two of each (two males, two females), which end up as one pair on each side.

If they don't 'click" together when you install them on the scoops, you can use some black urethane adhesive sealant (Permatex makes a good one that is readily available at auto chain stores) to make sure they don't separate.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Again, I thank you for going above and beyond!

Andrew

Maurice,

Thank you so much! Do you happen to know a source for a photo of the part? I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct part and I've been unable to find a pic of it anywhere. None of the diagrams I've seen clearly show what it is I'm looking for.

Andrew

Andrew:

Here you go (click on it to blow it up):

Note: If you don't already have them, you will also need two "male and female" plastic buttons. Let me know if you need the part numbers for those, I have them somewhere around here.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Thank you! Those are the parts I'm looking for. You are a god. Also - Thanks for your offer on the plastic button part numbers. If you can find them without too much trouble, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Andrew

I'm looking for the part number for the rear axle cooling scoops on the underside of a Boxster. One scoop sits on each side to help cool each half-axle. I believe this feature was introduced after 1999. Thanks!

Andrew:

The two scoops (which I'm told is for directing air to cool the transmission) are part number 986 331 361 03. Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Thank you so much! Do you happen to know a source for a photo of the part? I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct part and I've been unable to find a pic of it anywhere. None of the diagrams I've seen clearly show what it is I'm looking for.

Andrew

I'm looking for the part number for the rear axle cooling scoops on the underside of a Boxster. One scoop sits on each side to help cool each half-axle. I believe this feature was introduced after 1999. Thanks!

Do not fire this engine up again until it is diagnosed by someone who has a clue about the internals and modes of failure of the M96 engine. The engine has symptoms that are not favorable and it is at the point where seconds could literally determine it's life.

Engines fail daily without overheating.

Engine is toast. :( Any advice for where to get a new one?

Talk to Dan Aspesi at Speed Gallery in Studio City, CA.

This is not what came in your car but it works better with plugin chargers, radar detectors, etc.

996.652.101.10.A05 socket -- Sunset price $8.28

996.652.102.10 lighter surround -- sunset price $4.52

Sunset prices are from 2008 so they might be slightly higher now.

You continue to amaze me. Thanks for the amazingly quick reply!

I'm looking for the part number of the cigarette lighter assembly for a 2004 Boxster (986) U.S. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks, Loren! I found it. Your help is very much appreciated.

There are many connectors left dangling behind the dash. Can you describe which one it would it is? Thanks so much!

Yes. The fuse is fine. There is no wiring that connects to the lighter.

I purchased a Chase Cam with a cigarette lighter adapter as a power source. The only trouble is, my cigarette lighter doesn't have any power running to it. The wiring has been removed. How can I get a power connection to the lighter? Thanks!

Did you look in your Owners Manual? The bulb replacement specs and procedure are in there.

Loren,

I'm sure you've heard this more times than you can count but I didn't even think of that. I feel like an idiot. It's right there in the manual. Thanks!

Andrew

My right front Xenon headlamp is not working. Does the entire unit have to be replaced or is it possible to just replace the bulb? Is there a DIY guide out there? Thanks for any help!

Well, it's open! I ended up going to my local independent shop and $204.00 later, they got it done. They went in through the right fender well and somehow managed to get it done. It turns out that the problem was a spring that was completely stretched out and useless. I had them remove the latch mechanism and I hope to find a used, inexpensive one that I can install myself. Thank you for all your suggestions and advice!

Are you aware of the front hood release cable located inside the fuel filler door on the right side fender? It is located on the left side just behind door latch. It sometimes recedes to point where it is not readily visible. It the end of a release cable with a heavy plastic type coating to facilitate grabbing hold of it. When you pull it out about an inch you may not hear the hood release click, but that doesn't mean it hasn't released. Try to get your finger tips under the hood so you can release that safety latch release. The filler door cable was on models through 2000 MY.

Thanks for your suggestion but the release cable you refer to doesn't exist on my car. I'm thinking about removing the part of the driver's door saddle that houses the release levers for the front hood and rear trunk. Perhaps I could pull the cable from there. Anyone have any experience with that approach?

hmm...not sure what to try next. getting desperate with this suggestion - there are four "lids" - at least that is what the PET calls them, on the floor of the front tub. Two are maybe 4 inches in diameter and two are half that. I wonder if those knock out? if so, I'm not sure what to do, though. I'm not sure you could reach the mechanism.

Before I try your "desperate" measure I'm going to keep researching. There's got to be a way to do this...

Are you aware of the front hood release cable located inside the fuel filler door on the right side fender? It is located on the left side just behind door latch. It sometimes recedes to point where it is not readily visible. It the end of a release cable with a heavy plastic type coating to facilitate grabbing hold of it. When you pull it out about an inch you may not hear the hood release click, but that doesn't mean it hasn't released. Try to get your finger tips under the hood so you can release that safety latch release. The filler door cable was on models through 2000 MY.

Thanks for your suggestion but the release cable you refer to doesn't exist on my car. I'm thinking about removing the part of the driver's door saddle that houses the release levers for the front hood and rear trunk. Perhaps I could pull the cable from there. Anyone have any experience with that approach?

I searched this topic and found lots of useful information but my situation is a bit more complicated. The front hood will not open. It feels like the release cable might have become detached from the door sill lever. I pulled on the release cable in the front wheel well and although I was able to move it a couple of inches, the hood still would not open. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

With a helper, you might want to try pulling on the wire while the helper applies some downward force on the badge to relieve some the pressure on the latch.

Thanks so much for your suggestion. I tried it and unfortunately, it didn't work. Any other possible solutions?

I searched this topic and found lots of useful information but my situation is a bit more complicated. The front hood will not open. It feels like the release cable might have become detached from the door sill lever. I pulled on the release cable in the front wheel well and although I was able to move it a couple of inches, the hood still would not open. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Good info, thanks guys.

I am interested in buying a 1999 Boxster and will be looking at a specific low-mileage car tomorrow. The current owner has disclosed that there is a tear in the plastic rear window. How much should I expect to pay to repair/replace this (in the Los Angeles area)? Any good shops to recommend? Thanks!