Keith Upson

Thanks, Loren - per other threads here, I've cleaned the MAF sensor and checked its actual values via the Durametric (V did increase with RPM, as expected), and I've run a tank of Techron to see if I could cheat and easily clean the injectors. New fuel filter, too.

None of which are dispositive on those issues, though, of course, and I haven't done anything to test fuel pressure or flow rate or for intake air leaks, but

Next place I will look is the exhaust, because I took the mufflers out when I did the coils and plugs, and these codes weren't happening before. Simplest explanation might be the most likely, if I didn't button up the exhaust properly, there you go. 

Regardless, I suppose there's no alternative to methodical and systematic troubleshooting, so thank you for the list!

2001 Cabriolet, Tiptronic.

Got a whole handful of codes today after the car had sat for five hours in Florida shade - maybe not a 100% cold start, but not anywhere near temperature.

Notably, the secondary air pump did not come on.

New Beru coil packs and Bosch plugs all around. Start up / idle RPM only: 600 - 1,100 rpm.

Based on my searches only, it seems I'm looking at two different things - the secondary air pump and 1128, 1130 can be connected to the misfire codes. Lots of threads here just on those codes by themselves.

But the 1341, too, on cold start, well under 3,000 rpm? I mean, good threads here too on troubleshooting that for electrical, DME, solenoid, or actuator,

But to get all these at the same time? Am I ignorantly looking for some correlation between cause and effect that may or may not exist?

Thank you Loren, I swear I looked longer and more times than I’d care to admit. 🤪

Rats. Well I haven't yet figured out the magic solution to having a post signature ...

I should have said, it's auto. Good point, if I was shifting (and I wish I was), it'd be flying all around the inside of the car, without a seat back on my back hahahahaha

There's probably a way I can put all that info in my signature, so it shows up in every post ...

I'm driving it now (well, not right now), I just get "low rider" stuck in my head every time, because I have to lean forward to sit upright.

Just now, DBJoe996 said:

And bonus, you need to be able to run the seat forwards and backwards to get to the seat bolts in order to lift up the seat and get to the memory module.  Not happening.

See, these are the types of things that wake me up at 3am in a cold sweat 🤣

And I get your point, because the position my seat is in is SO AWFUL that if I can just get it somewhere closer to where I'd want it, I'll bump this project to the bottom of my list.

But it is SOOOO BAADD - the good news is that if I wanted to sleep in the car, I'm all set! 

3 minutes ago, judgejon said:

Yep, ignorance is bliss. 
my recollection is you cannot manually adjust the powered seats. 
I remember the procedure for lubing the forward/back screw-like drive, but don’t recall ever reading about any manual adjustment. 
good luck. 

Thanks, Jon, that's what I was afraid of. Oh well!

I'm sure the answer to this is somewhere on the internet, but I've tried and tried and haven't found it. So I apologize in advance if this is stupid or I've just been searching incorrectly.

Or maybe I just already know the answer and I'm trying to ignore it, hahahahaha.

The left power seat doesn't work, in any direction. The fuse is good. I took apart the switch assembly, nothing visibly remarkable there - no obvious oxidation or visible deterioration.

Is there any way to manually adjust the power seat, or is my option just to take it out, take it apart, diagnose what's wrong, and replace whatever has failed?

2001 996 cab, please and thank you.

Keith 

"You moron, 14%!? The head for cylinder 1 is clearly cracked and you are a cad. Do not attempt to drive the car under any circumstances. IMS. Bore scoring."  

I just did this last weekend as well - the door handle spring had broken, at the inside handle end. I was able to bend a new hook, pull the spring out (to account for the fact it was now shorter) and put it all back together while I wait for my $8 replacement spring.

But honestly, without that photo, gonna be real hard to answer your question. 🙂

Hi, first substantive post. I've been lurking a lot the last couple of weeks.

About a month ago, I brought a 2001 996 carrera cab / tiptronic home. 164,000 miles, and needs some love. No visible signs of abuse (for what visible may or may not be worth) and no wrecks. Its just been neglected the last few years of its life.

Drove it about 20 miles, half an hour, to get it home - coolant temp normal, oil pressure normal, no CEL. In fact, the only light is the convertible top light, which I know doesn't work. No smoke, runs and drives as I'd expect.

The first weekend I had it, I drained the oil and autopsied the filter. I've documented that more than probably anybody would want to know on instagram, @keith_996.1.

I sent an oil sample to Blackstone.

Blackstone's report says there is too much fuel (2.5 and should be under 2.0) too much potassium (641, universal average of 2) too much sodium (158, universal average of 10) and too much silicon (20, universal average of 7).

So, Blackstone suggests coolant pressure test. Because it looks like a blown head gasket, which would explain the fuel in the oil and the antifreeze in the oil. Except we know the M96 isn't really known for blowing head gaskets, it is more likely to have a cracked head.

Also, for context, there is no visible coolant in the oil. There is no visible or physically discernible oil in the coolant. You know that sickening oily residue feeling on your finger tips, after a dip in the expansion tank? Yeah, none of that. Just looks and smells and feels like oil (from the oil pan) and coolant (from the expansion tank).

Additionally, the expansion tank cap is an antique - an 00 cap that's probably original to the car, first-gen cap, and gurgles like a leaky lunatic after driving just up to temperature.

So I pressure tested the cooling system.

I put 19.5 psi on it, and at 15 minutes it was about 19.2. At sixty minutes it was just below 18 psi. So its consistently dropping about 0.3 psi every quarter hour, which seems pretty normal to me for leakage at the cap, and if I didn't have coolant in the oil, wouldn't suggest anything wanky to me.

Started it up after an hour, no smoke.

So I pulled all six plugs, stuck the throttle plate open, and did a compression test.

Cylinder 1 produced 120 psi, about 13.6% lower than the highest cylinder - that's by far the largest differential. 13.6% isn't anything to be happy about, maybe (?) more so because every other cylinder is within 1.83% of each other.  So #1 really stands out. But a) it is just one cylinder (not two adjacent); b) even 13.6%  doesn't seem catastrophic on an engine that's got 164 thousand miles on it, and c) when I put some Marvel's Mystery Oil in there, it shot up to 150 psi, which I thought (?) is the result of ring seal. Poor ring seal might explain the fuel in the oil, but wouldn't explain the coolant.

Again, though, like the coolant test, I totally wouldn't have any concern about the compression test unless I had a lab report that says I've got coolant and fuel in my oil.

So at some point I'm going to drop the engine and tear it down and rebuild it anyway, but for now I'm thinking I'll replace the expansion tank cap, plugs, belt, and put about 500 miles on it while checking oil and coolant levels constantly, then send off another sample. The only other thing I know to do would be panic-drop it now and tear it apart, I'm just not convinced.

Thoughts? 

164,000 '01 cab with tiptronic. New to me, and I've just started giving it the maintenance and love it needs. 🙂

Would never have bought an automatic, but the price was just too low for me to pass up.