alexcwt

It is a "likely cause" assuming no damage to spoiler, electrical connectors, or microswitches.

Which is why I said to swap them and see if anything changed.

If no changes, then Durametric, a Porsche PST2, or Porsche PIWIS tester will help find the exact problem quickly.

Thanks Loren. I decided to buy new relays since it's only $40. It's gonna be at least $200 for dealer to plug my car into their computers.

:welcome:

Try swapping the two relays. They are identical so they can be swapped.

You will find them on relay panel support 2 - which is behind a carpet panel behind the rear seats.

Relay position 3 is Extend and relay position 9 is Retract.

If the problem changes to a raising problem after the swap then you have found your bad relay.

Hi Loren,

Mine is inconsistent. It come on as soon as I start driving. Even at low speed the wing would go up when I get that message. Or it works fine for a few days of driving. Is it still the relays? If it is, then do you have part numbers. I have the bose sub back there, don't want to open it multiple times. Might as well replace both at the same time. I'm hoping that it is not some other control module or something.

Thanks.

Both relays are part number 996-615-102-00 Relay -- US MSRP $19.64 (each)

Wow. That was so fast. I assume the relays are the only possible problem then?

:welcome:

Try swapping the two relays. They are identical so they can be swapped.

You will find them on relay panel support 2 - which is behind a carpet panel behind the rear seats.

Relay position 3 is Extend and relay position 9 is Retract.

If the problem changes to a raising problem after the swap then you have found your bad relay.

Hi Loren,

Mine is inconsistent. It come on as soon as I start driving. Even at low speed the wing would go up when I get that message. Or it works fine for a few days of driving. Is it still the relays? If it is, then do you have part numbers. I have the bose sub back there, don't want to open it multiple times. Might as well replace both at the same time. I'm hoping that it is not some other control module or something.

Thanks.

The viscous coupling is just as it sounds. It uses fluid to transfer power to the front. Kind of like a torque converter. The only difference is that the fluid would thicken as temperature increases when there is slipping between the two turbines. In cold weather, this almost doesn't thicken. 5% of the torque is only about 15 ft lbs at peak. Even at the full 40%, your talking 100 ft lbs.

What kind of tires are you using? That plays a much bigger part than any electronic nanny or awesome drive train you have. If you don't have snow tires on, your not going anywhere.

Subaru AWD uses a transfer case. Very much like a normal differential. It's actually very backwards like a truck. With that said, it's a lot more "useful" in getting you going in the snow. WRX and EVO just added clutch packs to the diffs and use electronics to control the engagement. The 4WD in the P-cars are not designed for this purpose. It's to assist in cornering. That's why they drive like a RWD car. The 997 C4S is actually quicker around the track than a CS. They do share the same AWD system with the 996.

The 997 turbos does change this to a system similar to the WRX and EVO which allows the engineers to control things electronically.

There is nothing wrong with your system. Get some good snow tires. Narrower the better. You'll be able to get around.

Anyone tried this before?

http://www.wilhelmy-it.com/

click on North America, On-line shop, Porsche, 996, Coupe, and finally RemoteKey. The page doesn't allow direct access.

It opens and closes windows with the original remote, lock in feature, and a few other convenience options. German company but ship from U.S.

I have daylights running lights on my 99 by jumping into an empty slot on the fuse box in the cabin. I will take a picture tonight or see if I can find the link.

All I did is put a small jumper wire between two fuses, one empty one not, and viola, you got the headlights on with the ignition on.

Found it faster than I thought, courtesy of Toolpants. I could not find the connectors shown in the link, so just used a short (1.5" jumper wire from one location to the next. Works like a charm

http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/drl/

Awesome. Thanks a bunch.

I am a little confused.

Does that mean that the DRL is there just no power to it?

Wouldn't it be better if we just add a 12V source at the top leg of the fuse block and then put a fuse in the slot?

Is the A9 the one for DRL?

I want to do a mod to the head light. I like to have Daytime Running Light. :D So I am just looking for a hot wire that turns is hot when ignition is turned on. I will then use a relay to drive the lights.

Using unoiled K&N will let through a lot of small particals that the oil was supposed to attract and hold. I don't think it's worth the risk.

K&N kit doubled the distance between the TB and the MAF. the tube now acts like a "tuned pipe" as the cross section area go from small to large to small. Kind of like a resonator in the exhaust to increase power at certain RPM. That mean at certain "frequency" of air flow would increase the flow by having a "resonance". But on the other hand, when the TB is closed, this "resonance" could also send the air back to the MAF and trigger a "no flow" reading thus causing the MAF to lean out the air fuel ratio. Check and see if the stall is happening at the same RPM range with the TB closed.

I need to find a specialist to run the dyno. I'm told that unless the front propshaft is disconnected before the power run the viscous clutch and front diff can be seriously damaged. It seems the only way to get a figure is to run it 2wd. Anyone heard these horror stories?

ANYTIME, ANYONE doesn't know enough to disconnect the coupling shaft for a "pull" Methinks you would be better off NOT doing business there. We "repaired" a few TT's that have had this issue. MAN, it's terrible to see some of the shafts that come out of those poor machines. AND, the viscous coupling gets damaged at the same time.

I do have my doubt of substantive HP/TORQUE improvement through exhaust change. It's mostly a sound change that people equate to improvement in performance. M

Are you saying that it should be disconected or not? Why would it incur any damage if it's disconnected and no power going to it? The viscous clutch is in the front axle housing.

Does any one know if these part number are for hollow spokes?

996.362.136.01

996.362.142.10

Thanks.

my M5 came with it when I bought it. I took it off and tried to give it away. No one wants it. I could drive with it as the TC stays on when ever I accelerate. I have Mich PS2 now. Love them. If you have the money, that's the only way to go. I could do doghnuts with the Conti on my C4S but can't on the PS2. That's traction.

have a 996 C4S. Want to put Mich PS Cups on it. Found some cheap 285s for the rear. Any thoughts. How would it make the car handle?

Loren, can you tell me if these part numbers are hollow turbo wheels?

996.362.136.01 & 996.362.142.01

Thanks.

I agree with hemeoncdoc wholeheartedly. There is NO reason to forgive mediocrety in engine design when a variety of makes ( including American cars I may add) are able to produce high powered , sophisticated engines that easily survive 200K miles without leaks or breakdowns. I also do not believe that only Porsche drivers use their cars the way they are designed. It is also clear that if you are using your car on the track you may shorted then time that engine failures occur but certainly not the same problem over and over again for the last 10 years.

I for instance would definately be looking at a Maserati or a Baby Aston Martin going forward. Or maybe the new Nissan/Infinity supercar...

Also, the reluctance for Porsche to make parts available for gearbox repair etc is rather anti-customer I would say.

I love my C2 but getting the habit of looking under the car every day to check for the RMS or other leaks syndrome puts a damper on my enthousiasm for sure.

Maybe Porsche should outsource their engines rather than their other components. Audi most likely would be doing a better job. Maybe even Jugo!! Consider a 3.8 liter engine with just about 350 HP. That's no longer the pinacle guys!!

Evo X with 2 liters will make 300+ horses with full factory warranty.

Coming soon to a dealership near to you at 35 K or so ( including ALL options)!!

Cheers

HarryR

If Porsche makes their engine that produces 60hp per liter or even the ultimate C6 Z06 @ 85 hp per liter, I'm sure it would last forever without a hitch. But the regular 3.6 is doing 90.25 without the X51 kit and that's almost 96hp/liter. This is with plenty of low and mid-range torque that Japanese can't match. Have you seen the list of recalls on American cars? Give me one American engine that's sophisticated. They can't afford to make sophisticated engines.

Spend some time here to see how great your 200k miles American cars fare.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/home.cfm

You're worrying about reliability and you want to get a Masser or Aston? Now those are notorious cars for problems.

By the way, Porsche is now a major shareholder of VW.

So what the 3.8 has only 350hp? it has enough power and torque to almost match the 996 GT3s on the track with all the comfys. That's still 92 hp/liter.

If you get caught tracking or racing a EVO, all warranty void. And Mitsu is actively looking for owners at tracks to void warranty. Last time I hear, my Porsche dealer is paying for our racing numbers at PCA DEs.

I'm working on a 99 C2. I bought a Gemballa kit from Gemballa America. It works exactly like a PSE. The instruction has very nice pictures with good detail. The problem is, the vacuum line tap in the pictures doesn't exist on the C2.

Does anyone have a copy of the instruction for PSE? Or can someone point to the right vacuum line for me to tap into?

The tapping is from the valves lacking oil. When oil get to them, they are fine.

I was installing the Gemballa sport exhaust kit and found paper work in it that shows produced by Remus. The kit is totally built like a PSE with speed cutout and everything. Just missing a switch to manually turn it off. I am now trying to figure out a way to cheat the relay to have a switch only and not a speed cutout.

What crack are these people smoking? I tried and tried to pull out the muffler without removing the bumper. No way. Not without bending the body. That plastic basket that holds the heat shield is just too stiff to pull the muffler down. I end up removing the bumper and the basket to change it. I'm glad I did because getting the new muffler back in wasn't easy either.

I'm planning to do a full install on of Gemballa cat back system on a 99 C2. The install looks like a PSE install with the bypass and everything. I like some instructions on how to remove the rear bumper please.

Does my 03 C4S come with LSD. I have PSM. When I do donuts, both wheels spin at about the same rate. I still like confirmation that I have LSD. The option sticker doesn't show the code.

I got the same kit last year and had the "compensating weight" hitting the bracket when in gear. I had to grind off some material from the new bracket to make sure it doesn't happen. Make sure you test yours for this. Your bracket would also need to be painted if you decides to grind it down some so it won't rust.

After the install, I kept feeling that the shifting became too notchy. I was recommending to everyone against upgrading to a SSK in the 996.

After a lot of thoughts and looking at the concept from my M5's SSK with really heavy oversized SS rod made me realize that the notchy shifting is caused by that the overall weight of the shifter is not heavy enough to match the more effort required. When the shifter is shortened, the compensating weight that Porsche built in is now not enough. I decided to find a heavy item to add to it. The screwed in thin sheet metal guard that came with B&M kit gives me the perfect place to add weight. I found a cast iron tow hook that I took off a Sequia with similar size but weighs a ton. I drill the proper holes, find the longer screws and bolt it on. Went out for a test drive. Whoa, the factory shift feel is back. It's not that pretty but gets the job done. I'm now considering adding even more weight.

Needless to say, I'm happy again. I am all for SSK in a 996 again.

Maybe I should tell B&M to make the kit in Stainless Steel. It would automatically compentate for the weight. But it would also cost twice as much.

Just did it. Added some wires and got 30 yards out of it.

I did the write up here:

http://www.lotususa.com/Alex/LongRange/default.htm

just contributed.

Sorry. I'm new. Can't seems to read TSBs.

Thanks.