fasterjames

Until I made mine a daily driver I heard a tapping too that made me a little worried. Now either it's not happening anymore (10K miles later) or I've gotten used to it.

Thanks Glyn. Yes I do have an RMS leak. I had a funny noise a while back and found out that it was oil contamination on the plate. The noise went away when I stopped keeping my foot on the clutch at stoplights and such. I didn't realize my shaking was connected too but it makes perfect sense. I have never had the clutch slip or anything so I believe that is still fine. I'll make sure to replace it all when I end up having to fix part of it. Thanks for your 2 cents (pennies in your case)

Mine works but for some reason the alarm won't go off when something enters the vehicle. I know it works because it makes the windows go up and the sensor on the dash turns on. I can't find anything in the owners manual. Is there a setting that can be changed so that the alarm will sound when something enters the cabin?

When I let out the clutch in first gear, if I am not super careful the engine will shudder. Unless I give it a lot of throttle, I actually have to modulate the clutch pedal at different speeds throughout the clutch travel to keep the engine from shaking. I have driven manual transmissions for over 20 years and have never had this problem. Hot/cold/incline/flat, nothing makes a difference. Also I am starting to get wheel hop on right hand turns from a stop. Any idea of what's going on? Could these be related? MY02, 5 spd, 65K, stock. Thanks.

Two other possibilities: In 22 years of owning over 30 cars, I have not one time received my new tires/balanced tires/rotated tires/aligned tires with the correct amount of air pressure unless I've specifically asked the service writer to mark it on the technician's worksheet. And even then they come back sometimes without the right pressure. Usually all 4 will be different. So it's possible that even though you have new tires, they didn't inflate them correctly. Also, I didn't see where you live but in many parts of the US, our roads are sloped for rain runoff. In FL our highways are 2-3 degrees sloped so your car will actually veer to the right most of the time. When I was writing service for 2 large non-Porsche dealerships, we would have people with the same concern. We would take them on the turnpike and the car would slowly travel to the right. Take them on a regular road and it would be straight as an arrow. I'm not saying these are your solutions but check your pressure and check out the road surface.

Unless you are getting them free I wouldn't attempt it. I feel the same as rick3000. There are beginning to be enough Boxsters around that you should be able to find one in great shape and possibly even the same color-much easier to paint or maybe not even have to repaint. In addition what if your hinges don't match, are bent, or the door strikers are in different places. Or if yours are really bad you could take them off completely and make the first BoxsterJeep! :D

Another thing, i don't have a GPS but think that my odometer is correct. Did you check to see how accurate your odometer is? I would be very interested to hear your findings if you test it out.

You'll notice that many people in the forum have this same issue. Mine is right at 10% off. Also stock wheels. It's annoying but I am out of warranty and don't feel like spending big bucks to get it fixed. I just use the 10% subtraction method. The only real issue is that I can't convince my 17 year old that I'm not speeding by that much when she sees the speedometer, especially since I tell her she better not speed at all. "Dad, you're doing 80 in a 65!"

I've read through about every thread concerning tires but am wondering if there are new experiences/updates. It's Tire Time and I'm looking for the best tire for my needs. Here is the experience I've had so maybe it will help someone else down the line. Yokohama AVS ES100 : Great grip but unbelieveably loud, even with lots of tread left. They are a cheaper tire however and came on the rear of the car. Toyo T1-S: These came on the front when I bought it. Great for FWD racers but lousy for Porsche. Like driving on a bar of soap. I would never buy a mismatched set of tires but since I do a lot of city driving I figured I'd wear them down a bit. I am open to other suggestions as well, but research here and TireRack have helped me narrow down to these. That being said I'm considering the following 3 options: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Michelin Pilot Sport Rib I need excellent wet/dry traction. Will never be in snow but will be in lots of rain. I conduct business calls on the phone sometimes so a quiet tire would be preferred but I know I won't get Lexus quiet no matter what I do. I drive spiritedly-agressively (with no one around) but will not see any track use. 70/30 City/Highway use. MY02 5 Spd 17" Does anyone have any opinions or experiences on these tires? Thanks in advance.

How many miles on it? Is it a wondering or rolling idle change? Could be several things but here are a few things you'll see in several posts that potentially could be causing it: A/C just happens to cycle on/off at that time, throttle body needing to be cleaned, MAF in the very beginning stages of needing cleaning or replcement, clogged air filter, etc.

Congrats! You are in for the ride of your life. I'm a former Trans Am, Camaro Z, Mustang guy who loved the incredible torque but have been swept away by the charm, handling, finesse, and engineering of Porsche. My favorite part? Nailing the accelerator in a tight corner instead of having to wait towards the end.

My semi-edumacated guess would be the Throw Out Bearing or Pressure Plate. Did your tech rule these out? Good luck to you.

Yeah, about the cap-be proactive and buy one before you need it. Maybe even a spare. I too learned the hard way. It was a Friday and I was leaving Orlando to go to Atlanta for the weekend and sure enough coolant poured by the right rear wheel. I found this awesome forum by the way while looking for what may have caused it. Yep, old radiator cap. Called the local Porsche dealership, told them I needed the cap and some coolant. They were closing Parts soon so they charged my card -they said they didn't know how much it would be-and had it waiting for me at the receptionist area. Well my bill for part # 996.106.447.01 was $28.00 and the coolant was $68.50! Perhaps that's list price but it seems high and I can't believe that an experienced parts guy wouldn't have a pretty good idea of cost on maintenence parts. Needless to say I haven't bought from them again nor serviced my car their either. Since then I've done a 60K, front and rear brakes, cleared the a/c line, and a battery. They lost around $1500 so far because the parts guy wanted to rip me off for an extra $30. Oh well. Anyhow for $18.00 bucks buying a new cap just might make your life easier by saving money and more importantly time.

I ordered from Phil at Sunset for the first time yesterday. They were great to deal with and the part I needed was over 30% below my local dealership price. I made sure to tell him I found them through Renntech.org as well. I recommend them too.

I have an 02 with about 65K and over the past 6 months I have had 3 occassions where I've found 2-3 drops on the garage floor. Looking underneath I've identified it as a probable RMS leak. I took it to my Independant Porsche Repair Shop and they said not to worry about it until it starts leaking on a very regular basis. He said he's seen them go 2k like that and 50K like that. Keep an eye on oil level and consumption and all should be fine. That seems to be the advice I've found in the rentech forum too. So I will wait until it gets worse and do the clutch at the same time or wait untill the clutch goes and do the RMS/other seals then. I got nervous about by all the talk but have decided not to stress over it anymore.

Test Drives: Have a pre-planned route so A. you can better control conditions b. less likely to be told to get out and walk home without your car c. you control the timing. Have your cell phone if drive goes somewhere you don't want to or if it is getting too long. You can also tell people who call something like this: Mr. Jones, I appreciate your interest in my Porsche and will be happy to show it to you. When I set out to sell my beautiful car, I decided that it needs a good home and that I will not allow people to test drive it until they are serious about making an offer. If this is OK with you I invite you to look at it. Please don't mistake my reluctance to have people drive it before they are ready to make an offer. I'm sure you can appreciate that and can have confidence in knowing that the Porsche you may be buying has always been treated well. This keeps tirekickers from showing up as often and sets the groundwork that just because they show, they may not be driving. You can always change your mind to Yes once they are there, but it's a lot harder to say No if you haven't set it up in the beginning. Remember it is your car, your property, and your investment until they pay for it. I wouldn't let my kids abuse my Porsche so I'm certainly not going to let a stranger. Payment: Go to their bank with them during business hours. Get a draft/check from the bank to you by using one of the Tellers. If it is the weekend, collect their personal check/bank check, give them a Bill of Sale but no title, no keys, and no 996. On Monday when their check clears their bank happily bring their new car to them or have them pick it up. Anything else these days is just too risky. I once sold a motorcycle to a guy who flew down from Pensicola on a Saturday. I gave him the title and bike and he rode home. Difference was that I knew he was on a plane and could track him down easier if the check was no good. Plus I researched him on the internet first. Check was good, we were both happy, good experience. I wish you the best of luck.

I don't know about Porsche warranties for older vehicles. I think you might get one if you purchased your Boxster at a dealer but not sure. That being said, where did you hear about this company? From a dealer? A card in the mail? Credit card? Did you search them out? If offered by the dealer I would think you are fine. If from a card in the mail, I'd give it a 50-50 shot. Through a credit card I would say no way. If you searched and found them, probably not too bad. And I agree with John Jones, your price will be bumped up (or coverage down) to absorb the no payments for 2 years. Let us know how it ends...

I second that. I make sure the A/C is off before I shut down my MY02. If I forget and start it with the a/c on, it will shudder and idle poorly until the computer can catch up and smooth it out. Also you don't want to let it sit and idle for more than a few seconds. It has a lot more emisions equipment on it and revs lower than most bikes do so you don't get the same benefits of the warm up period. (plus if your engine stalls you don't fall over... :) )

I don't know anything about them (there are thousands-some good some bad) but have dealt with auto warranty companies indirectly for several years. I have never heard of one with no interest payments for 2 years or any time for that matter. I would be extremely cautious about a company that needs a gimmick in order to sell its product. Or are you just using them to finance the warranty or are they actually offering the warranty through themselves? They appear to be in the finance business but maybe they do product warranties too. How did you find out about them? From a Dealer or did an independant Agent contact you? Most warranty companies are held off shore and are not subject to US tax laws. Sadly, many of them are simply savings accounts for dealers/corporations designed never to succeed as a warranty company but as a retirement account. These few bad eggs will collect millions of dollars then claim bankruptcy on the tiny portion of what is kept in the US. Now the business is closed but they still have 10s of millions gaining interest in the Cayman Islands. Not trying to scare you or anyone else reading this but it does happen. It's a fairly common occurance in the auto business. Again, they are probably just fine and on the up and up but with any warranty company I would find out: 1. who the company is that you must contact in the event of a mechanical failure/how long in warranty business. 2. What exactly is covered and what exactly is not 3. what their MOP (method of payment) is to the repair facility 4. If they are doing the financing only, what is the rate? (I'm thinking very high if offering no payments for 2 yrs) 5. Check to see if they place a lien on your vehicle by accepting this loan. If they do, RUN! as fast as you can! 6. Verify all of this in print and on your agreement, not what the Agent tells you. Best of luck to you.

Sorry to hear that. Your Porsche coolant is specially designed to cool, protect, and (assist in) lubricate your system. Washer fluid is a mild soap which would counteract all of these things. If it was the auto store pre-mixed fluid it is mostly water anyway so you likely didn't seriously hurt anything. I agree however that an immediate flush (from a Porsche dealership or Porsche Independent) would be called for.

Here's a link for Becker's Code Request for those in which the other codes will not work http://www.beckerautosound.com/Code_reques...uest%20Form.htm

I drive 2+ hours each day and also agree that it makes the commute oh so much better. It is much more expensive than most cars one would typically use for long daily drives but worth it. In the Training and Sales business I have to have my attitude at 100% and driving my Boxster really helps!

I am 6'2" 240 lbs. Overall I find the Boxster very comfortable but wish I had a little more room too. I have searched for the same thing and haven't found much out either. My guess is that there really isn't a way of making it happen without serious and probably issue-prone modifications to the rollbars. I keep my seatback a little forward so that God forbid I have an accident my head won't get knocked back into it as easily. One thing, do you have the full power seats or just power on the seatback? The full power seat takes up a lot of room from what I hear so you could change it out to non-powered for some extra real estate. And you probably know this already but the seat does move vertically a little as well. I find this to be another way to get some room or just have a welcome change in position.

I leave my windstop up all the time except when cleaning my rear window. I have never had it stolen either but I did lose one of the mesh rollbar vents after my seatback knocked it loose and I took off from a stoplight. (Didn't realize it until I got home.) Now I have them tie-wrapped. For the center I 'carefully' drilled a small hole in the corner so if someone does want to take it they have to work for it. Don't have a hard top but I think I remember a picture of one with a ski rack from a Porsche promo. Check Porsche's Techquipment. Enjoy your Boxster!

The Collection used to be a client of mine in a former career. We stopped doing business with them because of their poor ethics and attitudes. If you need someone good to go to in FL let me know. I still stay in touch with a few people at a couple of dealers. Sorry about your 996. You can take the highline out of the dirt but...