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Posts posted by fasterjames
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Thanks, you've inspired me.
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Congratulations! What an incredible experience! I am hoping to participate in one by the end of the year. Did you have to modify your Boxster at all for this? (seat belts to harnesses, fire extinguisher, additional roll protection, and the like?)
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glad to hear it. Have a great holiday and enjoy the ride
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I get the same vibration at 3000 rpm only when decellerating. I read on another post that this is a very common occurance. I had never heard of the muffler bracket before, I'm going to check mine this weekend. Thanks for the direction.
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My daughter forfeited all chance with an incident in my 928 over 20 years ago .... which will remain untold at this time.Seems like a golden opportunity to give your daughter another chance. Might turn a difficult situation (your surgery and recovery) into an unexpected positive.
Regards, 1schoir.
1schoir,
My vote for post of the year. Seems we can learn about more than just awesome vehicles here. I admire your courage. After all, putting your neck out and making this statement is
'Risky Business'
Kim,
I understand your pain, physically and mentally. I shattered my lower leg in 33 places during a motorcycle accident a few years back- my foot did at least one 360 but surgeon thought more. 6 months until I could push on a clutch pedal again. I hope you recover quickly.
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Check the indicator bulbs. If one of them blows it puts less load on the indicator relay, and they tend to flash faster.
I'd agree with Richard. 'Typically' the relationship for the turn signals / indicators is front back. In other words, if your Right Front bulb is flashing at doubletime, then it's your Right Rear that has burned out or has become unstable.
I haven't had to change any on my Boxster yet so the relationship may be different.
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Do you use the Auto setting? A few of us have found that in humid climates the Auto setting will fog the windshield. What happens is that as the car cools towards it's target temp and the fan speed decreases, it will begin to blow air from the defroster on to the windshield thereby causing condensation on the outside.
I just use 'Manuell' now and never have a problem
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Carmax is a great place to buy a car if you are looking for a positive experience and good clean cars. They are friendly, have good customer service, and have tried to distance themselves from the mainstream auto dealers. If a car is on their lot it is in great condition.
That being said, they are not Porsche specialists and will not/cannot place a Porsche through the same certification as a PPI done by a Porsche store. Carmax may have a million point inspection but it still won't identify any issues as well as a trained Porsche expert. They may however let you take it to a Porsche store for a PPI at your expense. You'd have to talk with their sales managers about that.
When it comes to price, if you can negotiate and/or possibly put up with a not as positive of an experience (at a non Porsche store), you will always get a lower price elsewhere. If you don't, you got screwed.
I didn't buy mine from a Porsche dealer but I imagine the benefits are well worth the price: service, loaners, overrides for out of warranty issues, etc.
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Try adding a can of Refrigerant 134A from an auto parts store until you can do the proper fix, they sell a short hose just to be used with these
cans that connects to the low pressure side of the AC system lines.
I had heard it's a good idea to 'recharge' an R-134a system even if there is no problem. Also if you use one of these, how can one adjust the pressure/know the pressure needed so that it doesn't exceed the max pressure in the A/C system?
Does anyone know about this?
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If there's one thing car guys know it's math. (and only in CA could a person with low income finance 2 new 997s) :D
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Congratulations on your new Boxster!
It sounds like tires to me. The shu shu shu gives it away. Plus the type of tire on it will make a big difference. As you own your Boxster and get deeper into the forum, you'll learn that many tires get louder with age as well, especially if they aren't balanced, aligned, or inflated correctly. Best of luck to you!
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My A/C drain tube was clogged and backed up into the right side floorboard. While checking for moisture I found the drain line grommet had been pushed out into the cab. I assume this means that the hose was pushed from below and popped it through. Also, after clearing the drain, the water I ran through ended up sitting on the underbody panel. I also assume that there should be a hose from the end of the drain tube inside that routes the water through the hole in the panel and around the hot pipes which I believe are coolant or possibly a/c lines.
My question is this: Do I need a OEM hose or will any hose that fits and can hang below the car work?
Sorry about the pic quality. Had to use my daughters digital as wife is out of town with mine. This is a picture of the right side carpet pulled up to expose the drain line coming from the battery comparment area.
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when the light goes off, are you able to close and latch the top? if so, i think it's fine to leave it like that. it sounds like the transmission is off by a split-second. has the top been repaired before (by previous owner maybe)?
Thanks Chris. Yeah, it matches right up and the top was replaced by the previous owner with a GAHH Top.
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are you saying that the dash light never goes off?
No the light goes off as soon as the motor finishes but the top goes back up for a split second before it stops.
This morning I stopped the travel (by letting go of the switch of course) at the lowest point, closest to the windshield and the light stayed on. When I hit the switch again for less than a second the light went out and the top raised about a centimeter.
Should be adjusted or am I fine leaving it like this?
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as far as the top starting to move in the opposite direction while you were pushing the conv top button, that is not supposed to happen. when the conv top dash light goes off, the motor is supposed to be disabled. this could be a problem with the top relay, but i would worry about that later.
Mine has always done this. It goes back up about 1cm but the light stays on the whole time and it always snaps closed perfectly. It is a replacement top, could this movement cause me future trouble?
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However, if you plan on selling your stereo or keeping it for later when you sell/trade your Boxster you'll want to have the number to bring more value to it. Just write it on a piece of paper and tape it on the unit before you store/sell it.
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Perfect for Audio Systems, Extreme Motors, High Compression, Supercharger Systems, Large Cams, Underdirce Pulleys and No Alternators. 6.60'' x 5.20'' x 6.80'' 550 cca (0 degrees)/742ca (32 degrees)/1380ca (80 degrees).
I would find out what 'No Alternators' means. Seems to me this isn't a battery to run a vehicle but to run high end aftermarket accessories.
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Hello everyone, new to the forums.
I'm planning to paint my side vents black, is there an easy way to remove the side vents from a 1997 986.
I know there are severals ways to remove them depending on year of Boxster. Any detailed pix would be helpful.
Cheers. :)
Not sure about the 97 but my 02s are really easy. There is a phillips head screw at the top inside part of the vent and 3 clips holding it in place. You'll just have to pull a little bit. Make sure you collect all clips when pulling out the vent and that they all go back in the same places you got them from.
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I was facing the same dilemma a few months back. I talked with my Independent Shop owner and he suggested I put the factory pads on. He said that it's not like a Ford where they put pads on that are 'just good enough' to get by. Also that it would take a lot of time to be able to get my driving up to the point where I could match the OEM pads performance. So I put them on and other than the brake dust I couldn't be happier. The best part? After about 2k miles, I had a defective pad and both rears were replaced no questions asked.
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I am assuming the condensation is on the outside of the window, not the inside (if it is the inside then please let us know).
Actually no, the condensation was on the inside of the windshield which really perplexed and frustrated me because it wouldn't clear right away. (windshield very clean) Any ideas? Thanks.
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On your A/C display, is the UP arrow (defroster) on or off? I'm in central FL too and run my temp at LO all the time without the upper or lower arrows. I find that if I am running my defroster it will fog the lower part of the windshield and the door windows too.
Hi Fasterjames,
I don't have the up arrow displayed, just the word 'Auto' ... could you run your car with just the 'Auto' word displayed and see if you have roughly a 50/50 split on air flow to the window and dash vents?
Thanks,
David.
Hi David,
I tried this for the past two days. Wednesday no condensation but yesterday afternoon the bottom of my windshield fogged up. Windows in doors did not. Here was how it happened. 97 degrees yesterday, car sat outside at the convention center in the sun. When I left I hit AUTO and moved the temp to as low as it would go. Recirc was off as well. Eventually it started throwing air through the defroster after the cabin was getting cooler and this caused the condensation. I think it had more air going to the dash vents and after they started to slow down the defroster vent increased.
My guess is that somehow it senses more heat from the dash area and therefore automatically turns on the defroster. How and why I wouldn't have a clue.
When I took it off auto the condensation went away after about 5 minutes.
I hope this helps.
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On your A/C display, is the UP arrow (defroster) on or off? I'm in central FL too and run my temp at LO all the time without the upper or lower arrows. I find that if I am running my defroster it will fog the lower part of the windshield and the door windows too.
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While he was looking, did he check to make sure your red brake light fluid was full?
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Can you be a little more specific on your right wheel hop? I may be having the same problem. Thanks.
If I already have my wheels turned and takeoff slowly I'll get a small amount of wheel hop - about the same as hitting one of those little road reflectors (in the south) or a stopping grate (in the north). If I go straight just a few inches this doesn't seem to happen. The same thing happens if I take off quickly but when it hops it bounces the whole back end. I am trying to mentally keep track of where it happens so that I can look more closely at the raod surfaces. It only lasts about 1 second. Tires in rear are about 70% worn.
What's happening with yours? Do you have any thoughts as to what it might be?
Passenger Seat Water
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Posted
Have you checked the drain that comes from the battery tray yet? Water that runs down the windshield uses this drain. If it was clogged it would leak under the dash before it got behind the seat though. You may want to look at your right side floor up front too.
Luckily I found mine quickly from a musty smell that was water baking in car during the day's heat. In addition, I must have run over something that popped the drain tube up and knocked out the grommet leading to the floor. I'm not sure which event caused my wet floor but two things were certain, the drain was clogged and the drain tube was leading into my car. Neither are good for rainy central FL.
Good luck in your diagnosis.