bbywu

No joke. No burn marks. The flash software is not available. Even EVOMS removes the chip. The point of my post is that there are reputable shops that charge resonable rates when they don't have to spend a fortune on overhead. As a fellow business owner. I respect that.

You may notice that the new GT2 is advertised with 1.3 BAR with no block mods whatsoever, therefore if the internals are all the same, then I should be fine. Not that I was ever worried.

The software comes directly from Germany, GAIC I believe. The owner even called me up afterwards to ask me if I was satisfied. The Porsche dealership doesn't even do that. There were at least 30 ECUs sitting in a stack on his work bench when I arrived. He says most of his business is mail order. Just like EVOMS and everyone else. Price difference is nothing more than low versus high overhead costs being passed on to the customer.

You call that cutting corners, I call it smart shopping. I didn't pay full price for my Turbo either. I bought it at the end of the month when they had 2 sitting on the lot. I didn't get to this point in my thirties to afford a 997 TT by being bad with money. In fact, I manage money for a living.

Anyway, that is my 2 cents on the issue.

No. No. Nope. Not true. Talk to Stephen. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...lder&page=2. And that's Stephen Kaspar. Porsche Club of America tech advisor for the 911 Turbo.

As for the GT2...1.3 Bar with no internal changes true. But different VTG turbos. And 1.3 Bar is a spike...it is not a sustained level throughout the RPM band.

If you want to entrust your $150k automobile to your tuner...that is fine. Personally, I'd question anyone who has to solder a chip on the current generation ECUs to modify it.

I have been researching software upgrades and was thinking about EVOMS software upgrade, but for $3,500 it seems too much for too little. I attended a local car show and met a guy claiming he upgraded his 997TT with an additional 50hp with a $999 software upgrade from a guy working out of a little shack behind a repair shop in Burtonsville, MD. The web site is http://www.speedtuningusa.com I called the owner, Ollie yesterday and asked him about the software and an hour later he was removing my ECU, calling some guy in Germany, removed the chip form the ECU mother board, and 30 minutes later, he soldered the chip back on, reinstalled the ECU, and then I drove off. The software is available in two versions, standard, and custom (aka Stage 2). For $200 more than the standard software, I went with the custom. He told me the guys in Germany said to expect 1.2 BAR in boost. I asked for the conversion to PSI and was told around 18 psi. Sure enought, after 5 minutes of driving home, I hit it and the dash digital guage hit 18psi. He also told me that others are charging $2,800 to $3,000+ for the same program. I just smiled and said, oh really? Needless to say, I am thrilled with the car, not that I was unhappy before, but WOW, what a nice boost in performance. It now chirps second gear and builds boost quicker. I am being told that the increase equates to 75 to 80 hp. I just can't believe that I was able to upgrade my Turbo in an hour for equal or more power than the big name tuners for much less than 50% of the cost. I highly recommend this guy, Ollie, to anyone. I learned that he also does work for EPI Tuning. Please e-mail me with any questions. I am thinking of changing the exhaust now, but not so sure it is worth it. Any recommedations from anyone?

Walt

You spent over $120K for a sports car, and you're going to cut corners on a ECU upgrade by going to a "guy working out of a little shack?" Please tell me you are joking...

I hope this post is a complete joke. The ECU should never need to be removed and re-soldered to flash new software. Good luck with your warranty when your service rep asks about the burn marks on your ECU board.

Yes, look at the image Tool Pants posted on the second link.

Range 1 is 7,300-7,500 and Range 2 is 7,500 to 7,700 and Range 3 is 7,701 to 7,900.

So the car was over the recommended 4,000 RPM’s if this occurred during the “break-in” period. A usual rule of thumb is about 35 miles per operating hour, so you can do the math. The DME will show you total ignitions and hours run at the LAST occurrence. If there are only a few, it may have only been one event. The most important thing is will the dealer support the factory warranty in writing knowing this. It’s probably fine, good luck. :)

Thanks Scotto. I went ahead and passed on the cabrio. I'll just stick with my TT.

:rolleyes: What Year?

Check out:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10494

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9769

It's a 2007. Looking at your first link, does the data store the number of hours for the last incident only? The interface doesn't look like PIWiS.

Does anyone know if the ECU records not only the number of Type I or II over-revs, but also WHEN they occurred? Is the data recorded as total number of occurrences, or is data also recorded with mileage or hours run during the occurrence?

I'm looking into purchasing another 997, but when I asked the dealaer to run the DME, a few Type I and II over revs were recorded...and the car has less than 5000 miles. I'm worried that the car was abused during break-in.

Any insight would be appreciated.

The snap together car. Any part covered in leather is harder to snap in because of the thickness of the leather.

Holy cow...how do you pull out the trim?!? I have pulled out the alarm cover, and half the trim, but can't get the rest of the clips out from around the speaker. Any hints, special tools? It seems to be getting stuck along the little metal hook at the A-Pillar...

Thanks for all the replies...I'll take some snapshots when I'm done...

I recently purchased carbon fiber side vents, defroster trim, and a leather LED alarm module. I've figured out how to swap out the side vents (thanks to others in this forum) but was hoping for some help about removing the defroster trim and LED module. Any ideas?

Old post, but I have a comment to add.

After doing a search for some help removing the lighter port (changed out console panel to carbon fiber) I just wanted to add that you can buy the clear plastic ring, black plastic retainer, and green plastic bulb housing from Porsche for about $6.

If you rip or destroy the green plastic bulb housing in frustration (as I did), you can replace it easily with a completely. If you push the metal cigarette lighter forward, you can get it to pop out from the clear plastic retainer. Once out, you can push the tabs on the clear plastic retainer to pull it out, replace it with a new one, and put the cigarette lighter into place.

Does anyone know what the correct part number is for the rear wheels for a stock 2002 996 TT?

According to the Parts catalog from Porsche, the rear wheels should be 996 362 142 03 for the M410 style during production up to 2002.

As for those cars produced 2003 and beyond, the M410 style part number should be 996 362 142 11.

Anyone know the difference between the two? :cursing: