cayvman

Any ideas as to why when cold the idle is rough? Once temp gets close to 180 degrees it smooths out?

Here's what I did that preceded the symptoms:

De-snorkled

Ran 1 tank with Regular.

Have since re-snorkled

Ran at least 3 tanks with normal premium gas.

Cleaned the throttle body, which initially remedied idle problem (for a few cold starts) and then went back to rough while cold idle.

Particulars: 2002 Boxster S, Tiptronic, 66K miles.

Any ideas?

Joe

thanks, loren

I know I've seen it somewhere but can't seem to find it. Want to get rid of the CD Holder in the dash and replace it with a tray. Anyone know where to buy and/or part number?

Another question, the rubber gators. What's the trick/secret in getting the bottom O ring back on the gator. The top one is no problem.

So, that must mean that you have to remove the plastic shield to allow for more room.

How in the h*** does one get a torque wrench in to torque the bolt at the car body? There's barely enough room for a ratchet wrench?

Can this hack be done on an '02?

Think my last post got lost in the way I tried to post it.

So, here goes again.

So, Andy, are you happy with the Bass output from the DKE-116s or would you recommend going the Kicker CompVT route and let the dash speakers provide the mids?

Looking for input on a proposed audio upgrade in a 2002 Boxster.

Plan on swapping out the CDR-220 HU with an Alpine CDA-9886. Replace dash speakers with 4" MB Quart DKD110.

Replace door speakers with 6.5" MB Quart DKE-116.

I already have the PNP rear speakers. Should I replace these as well and if so with what?

Haven't decided on the amps to power the doors and dash speaker. Would like suggestions.

Also, with regards to the dash and rear speakers, would I run them from the same amp? Would I add xover(s) for these speakers?

Would I need a xover for the sub or is the active xover in the HU adequate?

I guess a word on the type of music listened to: Wide range, no rap (so don't need the thumping bass), eclectic, rock, funk, classical, world music.

TIA

The 9886 has all the high and low pass filtering you need for the F and R speakers. No additional xovers would be needed.

Depends....If you are going for absolute best possible sound quality and a few extra bucks don't bother you, then yes, I would replace the 3.5" drivers in the PNP kit with 3.5" MB Quart DKE 108 or Polk Audio DB351 or other 4 ohm drivers. If you are on a budget, then no, I would not change these out, I'd save the money for the amp(s) instead. The drivers in the PNP kit are decent drivers, just not as bright as the MB Quarts.

The amp question is really hard to answer without more info. Is price an object? How discerning is your ear and how high quality do you want the sound ? Do you want to drive a sub as well later? Profile amps are great amps for the money and I would highly recommend them to anyone. If price is no object, I'd buy an Audison VRX 6 DIRECT 2 or McIntosh MCC406M to run everything. Backing off that price range a little maybe a Polk Audio PA1100.5, Alpine PDX-5, or Kicker ZX700.5. For real value at very slightly less impressive numbers you might want to check out using a Profile HA1040 for the F/R with a Profile HA700M for the doors, or maybe an Infinity Reference 5350a or MB Quart PAB 5400 to power everything - although the last 2 mentioned are a little marginal on available power for the Boxster with top down at highway speed in my opinion.

Not sure if you realized it or not but the door speakers ARE subs in a Boxster (well...they are supposed to be anyway...), and the 9886 is capable of providing a sub output. Kicker just came out with a perfect solution for the Boxster, the Kicker CompVT 08CVT654 subwoofer. These are a 6.5" purpose built subwoofer drivers, that can easily be adapted as the door speakers in a Boxster. If you were planning on converting the door speakers to fullrange drivers as I did, and then adding a small sub system, then that is another issue. A Boxster is a tough place to get a sub into. Front boot will probably house the electronics, rear boot is to small for most boxes, the sound will be muddy, and the engine is between it and you anyway. If you put in a footwell sub on the Pass side, you get better bass but give up some passenger footspace.

So, Andy, are you happy with the Bass output from the DKE-116s or would you recommend going the Kicker CompVT route?

Probably the best solution for the Boxster is to look into mounting a Blaupunkt THb 200A, Alpine PLT-5 LAT, Kenwood KSC-SW10, or maybe a Bazooka BTA6100 Subwoofer System behind one of the seats. I personally have heard very good things about both the Blaupunkt THb 200A and the Kenwood KSC-SW10. I like the Blaupunkt THb 200A a little better because it carries an 8" driver and takes up about the same amount of room. I know someone who has mounted a KSC-SW10 behind the pass seat in a Boxster and loves it. It won't give you window rattling bottom end but it will give your music some solid, tight, bottom end that is missing otherwise.

Hope some of this has helped a little, and best of luck with your project. It is a lot of fun to do !

Okay juniinc, that picture just begged another question. I can see the one pair of tweeters installed in the middle of rear storage cabinet and I trust the other pair on the outside of said cabinet. But my question is, what the heck is that at the bottom of the picture? Sure looks like a speaker.

Did the rf's drop in (with the usual mods) or did it take more than that?

Regarding the tweeters, I trust you didn't opt for the stock install look, what with 3 pair.

Where did you put them all?

juniinc,

What model Rockford's? What did you do with the factory tweeter?

Joe

What about the tweeters in the dash? Has anybody replaced those and if so, with what?

Some good info.

I do know that the door speakers are subs and would like to keep them that way, hence the MB Quart DKE-116. Am aware of the need to build baffles and add the vibration dampening material.

However, will look into the Kicker CompVT subwoofer as an alternative to the MBs. I think either will be sufficient for my needs. Will look at the Kenwood KSC-SW10, though.

Which begs the question, if I were to go with the Kenwood behind the passenger seat, what would the recommended speakers be for the doors?

All in all, if I go with the MBs in the dash and doors, PNP in the rear, I would only need the one amp. My budget for the amp is somewhere in the $500 range, which makes the Kicker ZX700-5 a good option.

So, going with a 5 channel amp, would I wire the doors (assuming the MB or Kicker subs) using the single subwoofer channel and the fronts and rears using the remaining four channels. Sorry if this last question is lame.

Thanks all.

Looking for input on a proposed audio upgrade in a 2002 Boxster.

Plan on swapping out the CDR-220 HU with an Alpine CDA-9886. Replace dash speakers with 4" MB Quart DKD110.

Replace door speakers with 6.5" MB Quart DKE-116.

I already have the PNP rear speakers. Should I replace these as well and if so with what?

Haven't decided on the amps to power the doors and dash speaker. Would like suggestions.

Also, with regards to the dash and rear speakers, would I run them from the same amp? Would I add xover(s) for these speakers?

Would I need a xover for the sub or is the active xover in the HU adequate?

I guess a word on the type of music listened to: Wide range, no rap (so don't need the thumping bass), eclectic, rock, funk, classical, world music.

TIA

Replaced latch and window regulator and all is well. Thanks all for the assistance.

Never mind. For some reason the browser on my other computer wasn't showing the pictures.

What I meant was the picture(s) you refer to: "5) Now you can see the Rear Upper Control Arm circled in red. That is what we will be removing/replacing."

And also a picture I assume seafeye was referring to: "I noticed that your bolt in the upper control arm was in backwards or upsidedown to what they have in the parts diagram."

CJ,

Where are the pictures referred to in the diy?

Joe

Boxsterfahrer,

How difficult is it to remove the control arm to do what you're suggesting? Is it necessary to get the rear end aligned afterwords?

Joe

Latch unit was bad. Drop down would release whenever the the door handle was released. Going to order the regulator from Sunset tomorrow, if they have it in stock.

Thanks for the AUTOZONE tip.

Regards airbag, that's exactly what I did. What can you tell me about the PST2 et al?

After bit of research (Bombay digital) I would guess I need the buy the regulator, Unless, someone knows of a way to take up the slack in the cable. Any ideas?

Okay, put everything back together and normalized windows and the latch is working as expected re the drop down feature. However, Maurice you were right regarding the cable being stretched. The window drops down maybe 1mm, hardly enough to clear the trim. I did inspect the cable when I had everything apart and sure enough, there was definitely visible slack in the cable when the window was all the way up (or was it when it was all the way down). Either way, there was noticeable slack. I did not take the regulator off to inspect and see if the plastic lead was damaged as Ross1 experienced. I didn't notice any pieces of plastic in the door cavity, not that that means the piece wasn't damaged.

So, the long and short of it, do I need to buy the entire regulator or can one purchase just the cable?

And finally, when doing this job, removed the side air bag to get to everything, and now my airbag light is on. Is this normal or did I screw up on the reinstall?

Thanks. Figured it out after re re re reading the bentley.

Should the drop down feature work before putting the whole door back together?

Cause it doesn't. It doesn't even activate the microswitches. Guess I'll find out the hard way.