lmritter

Greetings:

I may not be using the DIY/Maintenace section correctly, would someone confirm ( or deny ) my understanding that the Lug Bolt torque on my 2006 997 C2S is 94 ft/lbs. I am placing some aftermarket chrome lugs on my wheels. Also has anyone done the same and are your satisfied with the look. I have Carrera Classic 19" panited wheels...with those less than beautiful painted lugs.

Thanks

Chromedome, North county San Diego

Well today I left my Porsche for the engine and other modifications mentioned above. As I got several nice compliments on the front bumper, I decided to add couple cosmetic touches to balance and make the back of the car with the front.....the addition did add $1250+ to the tab, but I think that the car will look visualy even more apealing.

What: Techart Rear Spoiler I

Why: Techart is indeed a little more expensive but their product line is tested and re-tested for Porsche compatibilty and fit.

What: Black Ceramic Tail Tips

Why: To Give a nice visual and complement the black hard top.(Also apparently the black ceramic tips get less dirty than the stock ones)

What: Front Hood Silver Porsche Emblem

Why: Will look less "Gold" and more "Class".....color wise it will fit with the rest of the car....see pictures above.....

Any suggestions, comments or feedbacks, please let me know......I will add to my topic as I get more updates.....

Thanks

Porschester.

Greetings:

Where did you get the silver Porsche emblem and was it OEM? I have a 2006 997 Carrera S in Carrera White and have been wanting one. I have changed the front amber side lights to clear and the car looks much better, I ordered the car without the " Carrera S" emblem on the rear hood and replaced just the " S" in the center of the panel...looks original, classy and have not seen any other Porsches with just the " S" . A couple of simple changes to make a great car look slightly customized .....hard to improve on a classic design

Thanks

Chromedome. San Diego

I'm looking into buying a used 911 Cabrio, either 05/06/07.

I'm not set on an S or non S but pretty sure I'll go with a stick versus Tip.

I'm coming out of a 2003 M3 Convertible with SMG and live in So. CA and it will be a weekend car.

I would really appreciate any and all advice on...

1) - Since it looks to be about 10k more, should I go with an S over a non S

2) - Is there a list of things I should specifically look at or do when inspecting one?

3) - Since I'm leaning towards a stick, how would you suggest that I ensure the clutch is in decent condition?

Greetings,

My 2 cents worth: Stick, an " S " for sure, unless you plan on keeping it for a long while...the " S" , besides having slightly more HP (35??)has additional items such as larger wheels , xenon headlights and better resale attraction. The single most important issue that I see, even on a low milage car, would be to ask for a " fault " report, which would include information about stage 1 through stage 6 over-revs.. This report alone would give great insight as to how the car was driven and if a downshift was missed or the rev limiter was hit and the number of times relative to a time factor this occured. A good Porsche mechanic could tell you if the car was abused. I would go over the finish big time...a wax job hides a lot of blems. Check the non- exposed paint areas, such as under the hood and compare the color to that of the exterior..any fading?? Don't shop at night .I talked to the service manager at my Porsche dealership and discussed yearly milage. His feelings were that these cars fit into a category... those that were lovingly cared for had less that 6K miles per year. I'd use that as a guide. I have a 2006 C2S that I took delivery of on September 30, 2005. I have 2834 miles on it ..okay so it's a garage queen... I don't have the time to drive it as much as I'd like to and I work 3 blocks from my home and would not even warm it up....even so I am having the 20,000mile, 2 year service done next month..an inexpensive insurance policy on a great car.. Good luck in finding your dream car, I've owned a few Porsches but the 997 is truely the best. There have been very, very few issues on these cars and they are really built! Unfortunately the great majority of us will never experince the true potential that these cars offer... 120 mph scared the crap out of me, but I'm older now .. the grim reapers seems too close as it is... be careful out there.

Chromedome North County San Diego

You have to remove the rear bumper cover then from the back side push in the pins and clips.

Greetings:

This is just a thought, because I have never been a fan of the two bumper butts on my 997S either, the holes left by removal of the two pieces would be ugly also. The most important issue is liability. If you get rear ended ( what a thought ! ) even if it is just a bumper tap, the guilty party could argue that you have modified the bumper / safety equipment and more damage occurred than would have otherwise, any personal injury dollars would be modified also. You'd be out of luck collecting anything on your present scratch free rear bumper. I'm not an attorney, but I have been rear ended before and it's a battle from the get-go. No sense making it more difficult than it already is. Enjoy " le' machine" they are a kick!

Chromedome

Greetings:

I presently own a 2004 525I BMW and a 2006 977S Coupe. The BMW was $48,050 sticker, with crappy leather .My brother owns a 2005 Boxster. What a cool, tight automobile ! Honestly, I've been ragging on the BMW forums about the poor quality of the E60 and the multiple problems everyone seems to have with it. Being in the same price bracket, the fit finish and driving experience of the Boxster is supreme compared to the 5 series BMW. What a difference. The build quality, fit finish and driving experince of the 997 is nothing but fantastic. The legend lives on. When I bought my Porsche along with the great car came history..( ya... Hitler was involved with Porsche but I'm a germanophyllie anyways (sp) ).I'll never again buy a BMW. Period. Overrated, oversold & over- advertised. BMW is the " Ultimate Breakdown Machine ". First time shame on them, second time shame on me... not likely!

Chromedome, North County San Diego.

I have a 2006 C4S that I purchased in June of 2006. I currently have 9,000 miles on it and just recently I've had problems with the car hesitating. The first time, I was getting on the highway and it happened. I tried downshifting and pushing the accelerator which did nothing. Two minutes later it stopped. i dismissed it as bad gas.

Three weeks later the same thing happened only this time it went on for 20 minutes before I got off the highway. I stopped an hour for lunch and then got back on the highway. The probelm continued. I got off the highway and went to my dealer. I explained the problem and they said it was probably bad gas (I only put high octane in it). It was a Saturday so I had to leave it there over the weekend until service opened on Monday. When I called on Monday, they said they drove the car and had no problems. They checked the computer and had no fault codes (Which did not surprise me since there was no error on the dash when I was driving it). I took the car home and had no problems until last night (about 3 weeks from the last time) when the same problem occured a few miles from home. I parked it over night, and when I drove it to work this morning it was fine. I know looking at some past postings about a year ago there were comments about a vacuum issue with the fuel cap. Some had experienced the probelm again after taking the cap off and putting it back on after running the engine. Is this really the solution? Everytime it happens, pull over, take the gas cap off, run the engine, put the cap on and continue? Seems a little crazy. Has anything new been identified as the possible cause. Thanks for any help.

Glen

Greetings:

I have a 2006 C2S... 2843 miles. When I first purchased the vehicle I had a hesitation issue or more like " Cugging " on 2 occasions. I was told this is most likely when the fuel is at 1/4 tank. I now always keep my tank full and have not had the problem since. I also use an octane boost once in a while, maybe every 3rd or 4th tank. Does that help, that's up to debate. However by keeping my tank on the full side I have not experienced any " Chugging " .

Chromedome, North County San Diego

Durametric Software

Hello:

Thank you sir......

Chromedome

Greetings:

Does anyone know of a company that sells a computer program ( with a laptop cable ) that can be plugged into my 2006 997 C2S which will tell me the history on driving issues such as stage 1 occurances, revs, and all other engine code issues?

Thanks

Chromedome

Greetings:

Question: If a rev limiter " kicks in" does it do so before any engine damage occurs. Also , does anyone know what rpm level Porsche tests thier 997 3.8Ltr engines at before they leave the factory.

Thanks

Chromedome

Factory spec is: 670 ± 40 rpm

The slight hesitation is likely the VarioCam cut-over point. There have been several discussions here about it.

Greetings:

My experience with these " is this normal " issues is that this may all be new to us and an exploration for what is normal, is normal. I had a tendancy to be a little careful with the " break-in" period and the one thing that really bugged me was the vario-cam hesitation. I have since come to the 2000 mile point ( actually I have had the car for 17 months and have all but 2200 miles on the clock ) and have come to realize that these cars want and need to be " driven ". They respond more favorably and are much more fun if the are pushed. Now, since I push the vario-cam hesitation point by keeping the revs high at shifting, the car responds like a sling shot and is the rear engined **** slot car that I expected. Enjoy you car, they are a kick!

PS you may find some " deiseling ", or " chugging " when your fuel tank is below 1/4 full also, happens to most of us

Chromedome

2006 C2S coupe white/sand beige full leather, bose, 6 cd, xenon etc

Greetings:

I let the water temp rise to 175 and the oil to 200 before going over 3000 rpm... after that anything goes. The normal water temp is 175-180 and an oil temp on 200 to 225is dependent upon the outside temp. Anyway, I have also been told to start and just drive away. One would think after the first 2000 mile period, everything should be ready for a little red line once in a while. The part I like the best is when you shift at a little higher rpm and when the variable valve timing is at work. Boy it's just like a sling shot...what car!

Larry 2006 C2S Carrera White, coupe, sand beige interior...my dream car

San Diego, North County

Guys:

I have a 2006 C2S purchased 9/30/05 . Originally , upon starting , when the car was brand new.. it had a rather harsh metallic sound when it first started. Now having all of 1983 miles and 16 months later... the metallic sound vanished.. about 30 days after I bought it. Someone once said it had more to do with the exhaust. Any ideas, did anyone experience the same issue? I have changed the oil once and boy this car drives like a dream.

Thanks , Larry.. San Diego CA.

Hiya folks.. I have a 06 S and the rear emblem had been taken off. I would like toput it back on. The dealer wants 100 bucks for the piece of plastic which is just silly. The new one does however have the adhesive already on the emblem so a simple peel and stick is all it takes. I have the old emblem but would have to dig all the old adhesive out of it. If i dig it out.. anysuggestions on what to use to get it back on the car?? Thanks...

Hi

Yes , my take on this is... leave it off. It looks alot better without it and it is far easier to wax the panel without it. People in Europe commonly delete these " insignias ". I ordered a 2006 C2S in Carrera White with the insignia deleted. Also , go to some of the online Porsche parts stores, they have insignias at a greatly reduced price. Another suggestions is place only the "S" in the center, the parts stores have various "S" insignias in black, silver ...whatever. I've tried to keep my C2S as clean and as singular as possible. Here in San Diego, I had not seen a new white Porsche in years, everyone has silver or black...Now after the GT3 came out in white, I am seeing a few more....oh well. It's not hard to pick your Porsche out in the parking lot anyway, alot of BMWs and Mercedes..but few Porsches.

Larry

Help, yesterday I inserted a DVD into the cd player by accident and now the player will not eject the dvd disc. Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get the disc out of the player?

I have a 2006 997 C2S. I had a CD stuck in the CD player that would not eject. Taking it down to my Porsche dealer, I was told that a small plastic part inside the cd player was broken. They replaced the entire PCM unit under warranty ( I believe the PCM unit is around $4,000 !) Now, I have to say that I am very careful with cd loading..... hope this is not your problem

Larry

North County San Diego.

Does anyone know what are the big differences between the

Porsche battery maintainer (98061198100), which sells for about

$76 bucks, verus the Porsche Charge-o-mat which sells for

over $100 dollars.

Does it matter which one I get?

Thanks

Hi

I purchased the charge o matic because I have 2 " Garage Queens " , a 2004 BMW 5 series and a 2006 C2S. Since the systems in the BMW will go to a " default mode " and have to be reactivated, I hook up the BMW to the charge o matic and it will KEEP the battery at its best charged level,. All you do is hook it up and forget about it. If I leave for 2 weeks, the BMW is the most sensitive to not driving it. The Porsche seems to hold a charge longer... Basic I believe the " Charge o Matic " can be left connected to the battery for long term situations and will keep the battery at a constant optimum charged level so the computer systems which cause slow drain, will remain active..all this without your constant attention. This becomes important to me when I leave for 2 weeks....Anyway, I have found that the " Charge o matic " has prevented low battery levels for both cars, which will cause to battery to have a " Heathier, Longer Life". Once the charge o matic has charged the battery to full charge it will reactivate when it drops to a preset lower level. I'm Happy with it.

Larry, North County San Diego

Gents:

I have a 2006 997s. I changed the oil myself at 1800 miles ( 1 year ) , a very easy procedure and much less expensive than the local Porsche dealer. ( Mobil 1, 0w40 ) Before the oil change, I was getting 14.5 mpg. Afterwards, my fuel consumption dropped dramatically to 23 mpg. I am totally sure my driving habits have not changed. Has anyone experienced the same change?

Thanks,

Larry, North County San Diego

Did you mean dropped or increased? Either way I changed my oil at 1900 miles and did not notice any change in mpg, I was averaging 25.5 mpg before oil change and average is now (3000 miles) 25.1 Best recorded mpg before oil change was 29 (fully loaded, mostly motorway cruising at 80mph, <4000rpm) and best since has been 27 but with a mixture of road types and now using the car's full rev range. (Note: mpg figures are based on imperial gallon for equivalent US gallon multiply by 0.833, fuel mostly Shell 99 RON)

Sir:

My fuel consumption improved from 14.5 mpg to 23mpg. I drive city and freeway miles ( not many however ) Punch it once in a while. My point is that my mpg improved after the first oil change.

Thanks

Larry

Gents:

I have a 2006 997s. I changed the oil myself at 1800 miles ( 1 year ) , a very easy procedure and much less expensive than the local Porsche dealer. ( Mobil 1, 0w40 ) Before the oil change, I was getting 14.5 mpg. Afterwards, my fuel consumption dropped dramatically to 23 mpg. I am totally sure my driving habits have not changed. Has anyone experienced the same change?

Thanks,

Larry, North County San Diego

I have a 2006 C4S coupe (6 speed, US) with a little over 5000 miles and have been experiencing a weird clutch phenomenon for some time now. The problem is a little hard describe without actually driving the car, but I will obviously do my best. When the clutch is put in before shifting to a higher gear with the engine revving above about 4000 rpm, the last couple of inches of pedal travel feel very "mushy" (for a lack of a better term). It almost feels like a vibration, and only occurs when the clutch is put in all the way and only for the last bit of travel. At first, I thought I was failing to come off the accelerator completely before making a quick upshift, but I have noticed that this certainly is not the case - even when I am completely off the gas (for a second or two even), the clutch sensation still exists. The problem only happens when the car is being driven (the clutch feels perfect when sitting in the car with the engine off) and the engine above about 3800 rpm- it is most pronounced at 4500 or higher and when shifting to 3rd or 4th gear. It cannot be felt during downshifts, etc. and rarely if ever at low rpm upshifts. The car can be either warm or cold, although I am very easy on it when it is warming up, rarely revving it over 3500 until the oil temp has been at 200*C for a while. The car has Sport Chrono and Sports Exhaust - I notice the clutch sensation regardless of whether or not it is in Sport mode. I am fairly easy on the 911 in general - it was broken in well and I am always careful to warm it up thoroughly (it also rarely idles). An interim oil/ filter has already been performed (@ 5000 mi instead of the recommended 20,000 mi). Oil/ filter from now on will be performed at 2500 mi intervals. I am the only owner, and delivery of the car was in December of 2005.

I realize that a lot of these details are not vital to understanding the problem - just trying to give as much background as possible. Apologies for the lengthy description. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, especially since the dealer here has not found anything wrong (although I wonder if they've driven it hard enough to even notice it).

Thank you all in advance!

I just bought an 07S an have had the clucth pedal vibration from the very first minute driving the car (it had 10 miles @ delivery);this is somewhat of a common problem with some newer Porsches. I had the exact same thing happen on a new 01 as well and others on the rennlist forum have repoted the same thing http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=205460. I was recently told by a large Porsche dealership's shop foreman, that it is the clutch fingers not being even and it should go away after/during break-in (at least in my case since it been there since new) If you did not notice this issue when new, you may have a different probelm. I'd bring it in for service and get the shop foreman involved, please report back his findings. Hope this helps.

Sirs:

I purchased my 06' 997s in Sept 2005. I did experience the same issue initially. Now the car has all of 1800

miles on the clock and I have not noticed this " shimmy " for about 6 months. I am convinced that because of our " Porscheophelia ", we become very sensitive about issues that would not concern a Ford Focus owner. Enjoy your cars.......everything I have read on these forms seems to be generally normal and transient. We all know where the big problems are noticed... just under the RMS on your garage floor. These cars are a kick to drive...Wow.

Larry, San Diego CA

175 to 180 for coolant is normal.

For oil temperature anything under 250 is fine and even at track events or very hot days 250 for a while is okay. 275 or over and I would be concerned.

Loren:

Thanks. I love my car, it was a dream come true. Best of all I paid cash , so no monthly payment. I saved a very long time for this one and will probably pass it down to one of the kids when I either can't see or they won't let me drive....nah... maybe then I'll just sit in it.

Thanks, Larry

Sirs:

I have a 2006 997S. The normal coolant temp is about 175 degrees. I have yet to be able to find what the " normal " oil temperature range is. My car seems to be at 200 to 225 degrees after warmup. Can be at the high end of 225 degrees on a very warm day here in San Diego. So.... what is the normal range?

Thanks, Larry

2006 997 S coupe, Carrera White/ Sand Beige