macsak

mahalo (thanks) jeff

i pulled outwards, i'll try upwards the next time

aloha

steve

i had a small nut roll under/behind the accelerator pedal

i removed the long screw at the top, but nothing moved

am i missing something?

aloha

steve

i would get the brown, since you will have a unique interior and top color

aloha

steve

copy of an email i sent to someone planning to install RUF pedals-

get a new drill bit from home depot, etc

i used a 4 mm bit

i got a titanium one from HD, cost 4-6 bucks or so

the gas and clutch (and i presume the dead pedal ,which i did not do) are plastic and are no problem to drill

the brake is a very hard metal and it is very hard to start the hole

another problem i had was marking where the holes should go

the gas is flat, but the brake and clutch have a little curvature to them, so you have alignment problems in 3 dimensions

perhaps you could try a pencil or marker, but i had no luck with the pens i tried

i ended up holding the pedal in place and starting the hole, then finshing the hole after taking away the pedal

i did end up being a little misaligned on the brake pedal as a result

this bothers me a lot since i am an anal retentive dentist

i will try and fix this sometime soon

you will also have some difficulty screwing the pedals in with the screw and nut

get a small socket wrench to hold the nut behind the pedal

needless to say the thing that complicates the installation the most is the fact that you are working in a cramped dark space below the steering wheel

use a flashlight, and be sure to remove your floormats and put down some newspaper to make the cleanup easier

new pedal installer's comments-

The installation was not what I expected. It took me 2 1/2 hours to do the pedals and foorest. The hardest part for me was screwing the bolts to the back of the pedals. Thanks to your titatinum bit tip, I didn't have any problems with the drilling. However, the bolts coming with the screws are so tiny that it took me a while to get all the bolts attached to the pedals. Like you said, there is not much room to work down there. Fortunately, I have a set of tiny toy-like plier and wrench that came really handy for this type of work. My fingers and hands were very sore afterward. I also use a small level like Skip (in Boulder) suggested to align the pedals. The double-sided tape definitely helped there. I taped the newspaper on top of the floor mat so there wasn't much to clean up afterward.

Aesthetically, the RUF pedals are definitely worth it. Performance wise, after a 500-miles trip, I would say they make a big difference in helping you control the rpm and make heel-toe shifting much easier.

my reply-

personally, i like the look without the dead pedal, but i really prefer the RUF pedals because the black rubber thingies break up the look of all that shiny metal

you must have missed my tip about putting the nut in a small socket wrench so that you can hold it down there while screwing in the screws

sorry i wasn't clearer on that point, it may have saved you some time

i was wondering how long it would take before i got that answer :D

for how much we pay for that tool, i can't afford to just let it fall off, not to mention the lawsuit when that thing hits someone or something :lol:

we all know those money grubbing lawyers will get us every time ;)

congrats to loren and jeff for the success of this very informative site

mahalo (thanks) for all your help

aloha

steve

cross post from a couple of OB :)

i'm on HST, so i have a couple hours of sunlight left, so hopefully, i can get an answer before i take my car off the stands

i bought the porsche metal filter wrench because the plastic one from wal-mart wasn't getting enough "bite" for me to get the filter housing off

the problem is the metal wrench now has too much "bite" and i can't get it off the housing after i changed my oil/filter

any suggestions on how to get the wrench off the housing?

aloha

steve

i think it needs a porsche crest there- the question is, colored or silver?

:)

aloha

steve

what is the upside down triangle logo in the second picture?

aloha

steve

always paying attention, you know that, jeff :)

interesting to see both a 2% and a 20% difference in the claimed shift throw reduction

perhaps it was a proofreading or ad agency error

aloha

steve

also interesting is the claim that porsche engineered this solution when it looks like they just licensed/copied it

aloha jeff-

did you see in the press release for the 550 special edition boxster s, they claimed that porsche technicians engineered the 15% shift throw reduction?

aloha

steve

i just added the 7 mm h & r spacers last weekend

i used the 50 mm lug bolts

if you go to 14 or 15 mm spacers, then you need to get the 60 mm lug bolts

i went with only 7 mm because i was a little worried about adding unsprung weight and putting added stress on the wheel bearings and the "kingpin angle" that was discussed on another board

porsche sells 5 mm spacers and lug bolts to match (look at your dealer or gert at carenewal), so i figure 7 mm is not much more

the parts are very high quality, and i like the look

others have 14mm and even 24 mm spacers, but i think mine looks pretty good, only a little wider stance, but not enough to worry about curbing my rims and tires or looking like a lowrider with the rims sticking out the fenderwells

i have a boxster s with the stock 17s, so i cannot comment on how wide you can go

i am planning on making the front track a little wider by adding 225/40/17 tires to replace the 205/45/17 stock rubber

the rear tires might stick out too far if you go for the 14 mm in the rear and only the 7 mm in the front, since the rears already stick out more than the fronts without the spacers

the hardest part of the install is removing the acorn washers from the stock bolts

many others told me they pop right off using a screwdriver to lever them up

i ended up cutting on the washer to remove the little tabs that hold them on the bolt, and even cutting some on the retaining ring on the bolt itself

this is easy for me since i am a dentist, and was able to find the tool for the job :)

i saw a GREAT suggestion that i think might work the best, i have not tried it, but it made sense to me

get a small open ended wrench that fits between the bolt head and the washer and then place the end of the bolt on the floor or a bench and hit the wrench downward to push the washer off the bolt by breaking the locking tabs

good luck

aloha

steve

7 mm h & r spacers

50 mm lug bolts

look is a slightly wider stance, filling out the flanks of the car better

i didn't want to go to 14\15 mm spacers and 60 mm lug bolts because i was a little concerned about unsprung weight, added stress on the wheel bearings, and the car looking like on of those low riders with the 13" wire wheels sticking out the sides :)

when i change my tires i am going to 225 in the front, and further fill out the stance and reduce understeer, this should complete the look

aloha

steve

mahalo (thanks) jeff

got it all done

was able to locate some tools to grind out the ridges and the slightly raised area on the bolt that held the collars :)

aloha

steve

mahalo (thanks) jeff

aloha

steve

picking up my wheel spacers today

got longer lug bolts, but i hear i need to remove the "collars from the old bolts and reuse them

what is the best way to get them on and off?

aloha

steve

ps- my first post here, great forum