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Jinster

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Posts posted by Jinster

  1. I found the following info, don't know what the actual source was

    "It should also be noted that for European wheel nut and bolt engagement approval there must be six turns of thread engagement for M14/M12x1.5 thread pitches and nine turns thread engagement for M12x1.25 thread pitch. This is particularly important when using any kind of wheel spacer."

  2. I believe our headlights are controlled from the headlight switch via another relay (i.e the switch switches on the headlamp relay, which then supplies the current to the headlamp), rather than directly switched via the switch (headlamp switch actually carrying the current going to the headlamp, is this correct?

    Does anyone know if it's a ground side control or hot side control? i.e, is the headlamp relay switched on by grounding at the headlamp switch or by supplying 12V at the headlamp switch?

  3. I am looking at retrofitting a rain sensor, and/or a variable speed wiper. I have a few questions I was hoping someone could give some pointers on please:

    1. Does the rain sensor allow the wiper's speed to change depending on the size of the downpour?

    2. I understand the variable speed wiper relay is replaced by the rain sensor kit wiper relay. If I have it connected up, would the variable wiper potentiometer on the dash still somehow function in this setup?

    3. The harness from the rain sensor to the relay only contains three wires, is this correct? If so, it would seem that two of them would be ground and 12V, the other one would be the variable output - going to the relay to do its magic. Is this a correct assumption? Anyone measured/know for sure? This would then give the possibility for using just an aftermarket rain sensor (less than <$100) and maybe use the variable wiper relay instead? i.e: essentially replacing the variable relay input from the dash potentiometer with the rain sensor? Doable?

    Another reason I am thinking about the aftermarket rain sensor setup is this particular one I am looking at also gives a headlight trigger when dark.

  4. I changed the tyres last week and had the shop do an alignment. The toe settings on both front wheels are now neutral. But the steering wheel is probably 5 to 10 degrees off centre, turned to the right. Rather than taking it back to the shop which is far away, I was going to do the OBC with stalk mod so I thought I could just re-centre the steering wheel when I mount it back on.

    Is this a correct thought?

    What worries me is: Would this place the actual steering column rod itself in a permanently "turned" position, masked by the fact that the wheels on one end and the steering wheel on the other are lined up straight and neutral? And thereby affecting the lock-to-lock ratio of my steering? i.e the I would be able to turn, say 3 full circles to the left but only 2 full circles to the right (due to the steering rod itself already being turned a bit to the right permanently)?

    Essentially, is it the wheels/suspension structure that stops the steering column from turning further when fully turned to one direction, or is this stoppage mechanism within the steering column rod itself?

    Anyone know what I am saying?

  5. After much deliberating, I went with Bridgestone Adrenaline RE001 255/40/17. They are $315AUD each.

    Massive difference in ride quality and corner grip, easily felt without event pushing the car too hard, compared to my old Goodyear Revspec RS-02.

    Although I remember the Revspec was pretty good when I first got them too 3 years ago. Obviously a worn set of tyres are no match for a newer set.

    Nonetheless, very happy with the RE001s.

  6. I have acquired a head-up-display. I think the best location to fit it is under the front air vent, near the windscreen. I can just place the head-up-display on top of the vent, but the distance to the windscreen is too short for convenient reading of the head-up information. So I am thinking about removing the vent grill and cut hole in it, and mount the HUD below the vent trim piece.

    Can anyone point me at the instructions for removal those grills/vent trims pieces? It's the front ones that you use to defrost the windscreen, not the side ones.

    I remember seeing a write-up of it with photos but can't find it for the life of me.

    Cheers.

  7. My wipers aren't wiping very well. Leaving skid marks on the windscreen and missing large areas entirely, despite a new set of blades.

    I think the wiper arms themselves are a bit loose and worn. Time for replacement.

    Before I ring Porsche for some expensive OEM wiper arms, anyone know whether there are in fact suitable generic replacements?

  8. It's time to replace my rear tyres on my MY97. Currently, it has a set of very worn 255/40/17 Goodyear Revspec RS02. This tyre was the Goodyear flagship many years ago but no longer available.

    I have two lots of size options: 255/40/17 or 235/45/17. Which one would people recommend? I realise the 255 is wider by 2cm but does it make much of a difference? I am sure 235s are cheaper and open up more tyre options too. 235/45s also would correct the speedo overreading a bit compared to the smaller diameter 255/40.

    Or would 235/45/17 even fit my rims??? I have 933 turbo rims on, like this:

    http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/p...}&size=orig

    It terms of actual models of tyres, do people have any thoughts and experiences on any of the following:

    Dunlop SP Sport 2000E

    Dunlop SP Sport MAXX TT

    Bridgestone RE050A

    Bridgestone RE001

    GY Excellence

    GY Eagle F1 Asym

    GY Eagle F1 GS-D3

    All comments welcome.

  9. Bought my MY97 5 years ago with no obvious problems, now totalling 157000kms. Do all my own maintainence and simple replacements like waterpump and belts But:

    1. MAF failures ×2 $700AUD each 5 years ago (before I got to know the car to know what's going on and how to work on it)

    2. ATX case crack 2 years ago $7000 for diagnosis and rebuild

    3. ATX seized 3rd gear this year $5000 for rebuild

    4. ABS failure 3 years ago $3000

    5. Some engine pulley/tensioner/bearing failure this year $3000

    6. Yet to fix: central locking half dead, cracks in plastic rear window

    Happy customer?

    .................

    Certainly not!

  10. Ali. The K-sport suspension looks almost exactly like my G4 Racing system.

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11342

    They could well be different branding of the same stuff. If they are the same, then my experience with mine is they are very harsh indeed. My back hurts a little after driving in the car for too long. All speed humps must be approached very cautiously. I don't race my car. So I don't know how much improvement it offers on a track. But on the road, it certainly reduces body roll and improved cornering a fair bit.

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