deputydog95

You got it right, a new window regulator is needed to help you out.

That's what I did. $400 later (parts and labor) and my pass window goes up and down now. I'm holding my breath re the driver's side....

It's an 02 996 cab.

Ok. After about three hours of fooling around with this, no success. I have both the smart top and the smart key modules removed and everything returned back to stock. What a PITA. I had to remove the driver's seat as well as the rear engine carpeting. The top still isn't working. I hear a clicking back there, but no top movement.

Any suggestions?

Thanks guys. I lost my owner's manual but downloaded one here. I'm off to the garage to start cranking.... This is one of those times where I wish I had a manual top and didn't have to deal with this...

Not sure what to make of this. I had my GT3 seats installed the other day. After I left, my top stopped working.

I have both the smart top and the smart remote add ons.

For a while now, the smart top has been acting weird as it would only put the down top half way. That would happen maybe 20% of the time. Most of the time it worked fine.

When I hit the button for the top in the car, the windows drop a few inches and then nothing happens.

When I hold the button on the key fob, the windows go up and down, but the top doesn't move.

I can't imagine the seat install would have anything to do with the top. Although the smart remote module is under the driver's seat.

I'd like to remove both modules for the time being and see how that works out.... How can I get the to the top control module in the back if I can't get the top to move? Normally you would put the top down half way and then you'd have full access to that area. Is there a manual way to operate the top?

My car is doing this same thing the dealer said it was the window regulator, his cost to replace $500 $290 for the part and $200 to install. However the window regulator can be had for $175 from http://www.the-best-source.com/ I'll let you know how easy it was when I'm finished.

D Man

Apparently there has been a price hike. I just checked the same site and it's not $239...

did you check with sunset?

No, not yet. I have suncoast in my backyard though. I'll give them a call.

My car is doing this same thing the dealer said it was the window regulator, his cost to replace $500 $290 for the part and $200 to install. However the window regulator can be had for $175 from http://www.the-best-source.com/ I'll let you know how easy it was when I'm finished.

D Man

Apparently there has been a price hike. I just checked the same site and it's not $239...

Any idea what the cost is for either of those pieces?

The passenger window goes up and down just fine. It won't dip down though when opening and closing the door.

What should I be checking? Is there any chance this could be a fuse?

My indy thinks it's the window regulator and that'll cost around $450 installed.

I've got codes P420 and P430, combined with a rattle in my exhaust. I am running muffler bypasses so the rattle must be in my cats. My indy tech banged on the driver side cat some and thought he heard some element rattling around in there.

Are my cats probably deceased at this point?

100 Time Units is one hour.

Realize also that some of these book times include taking the front wheels off - so if you are doing it all at the same time - the actual time will be less.

Front pads = 80 TU

Rear pads = 80 TU

Brake hoses front = 30 TU

Brake hoses rear = 30 TU

Brake and clutch bleed/flush = 80 TU

Thanks. So basically you can just add all the TU's up, divide by 100, and you should get the time in hours, right?

Where did you pull that info from?

There is no link - shop times are in POSES which is not available to the public.

Any idea how much time it should take to install pads, stainless lines, and do a brake flush/bleed?

I'd like to see what the dealer suggests for various repairs.

having my PSS9's installed this weekend on an 02 C2 cab. any recommended alignment settings?

stock headers from the factory, so i'm sure they're probably on there tight. maybe i'll go ahead and pay my tuner the $100 and let him screw with it. i can just see me sitting in my garage staring at the broken stud, cursing up a storm. wish i could talk the wife into why i need a lift :)

i think i'll take your advice and spray those bolts for him though. couldn't hurt to get some pentrating oil on there.

i obviously know what WD40 is, but what's PB blaster? is it better than WD40?

just curious. can they done at home without a lift?

i am going to try those suncoast headers out. i like to DIY when possible.

anybody got a link to some directions?

thanks.

just curious. i have a cab as well. does having the top down for extended periods while the hard top is on damage the soft top itself? i would imagine it can't be good for it to in the folded position for so long.

The scanner said it's a fault for the secondary air system banks. Any idea what this means? My car is supercharged, but it's been on there for while and I've never had a CEL before. The car seems to be running fine and making boost.

how hard is the install? my car is lowered and have been kicking around installing one of these.

i'm more concered with if either cyclinder bank runs hotter or leaner than the other. this is a generic product and the mafuf. doens't have specific information for a pcar application. i only have one AF sensor and one EGT sensor, so I have to decide which cylinder bank to monitor.

i would get rid of the tips. they're too close and frankly they don't look that good all wedged in. i ruined a bumper due to a poorly angled stock tip. i can only imagine what will happen with your setup. i certainly wouldn't mod the bumper just to try and make the tips fit. just put the stock tips back on till you can find another set you like. the sound will be the same.

nobody knows?

After months of research and feedback from all members, I decided to go with the RUF design front bumper for my 02 Cab. Here's how it look afterward.

It looks better than stock.

i recently supercharged my 3.6 996. i'm installing a zeitronix monitoring system (boost, voltage, AF, EGT, Lamda, etc). you can check it out at www. zeitronix.com

however, i'm only running one probe for both EGT and AF. i know it would be optimal to have an EGT and AF probe on each cylinder bank, but this monitoring system is not equipped for multiple sensors. it doesn't help any either that the two cylinder banks on the 996 exhaust system never meet. that would have been too easy :)

so, is there a bank that runs either hotter or leaner than the other. i figure if i monitor the worst case scenario (leanest/hottest cylinder bank) i would be in good shape.

also, where would you mount the AF and EGT sensor bungs for optimal readings?

thanks.

on a side note, recently dynoed the car and put down 402 RWHP and 310 foot pounds, uncorrected. not too shabby if i do say so myself :)

anybody? Loren???

i recently supercharged my 3.6 996. i'm installing a zeitronix monitoring system (boost, voltage, AF, EGT, Lamda, etc). you can check it out at www. zeitronix.com

however, i'm only running one probe for both EGT and AF. i know it would be optimal to have an EGT and AF probe on each cylinder bank, but this monitoring system is not equipped for multiple sensors. it doesn't help any either that the two cylinder banks on the 996 exhaust system never meet. that would have been too easy :)

so, is there a bank that runs either hotter or leaner than the other. i figure if i monitor the worst case scenario (leanest/hottest cylinder bank) i would be in good shape.

also, where would you mount the AF and EGT sensor bungs for optimal readings?

thanks.

on a side note, recently dynoed the car and put down 402 RWHP and 310 foot pounds, uncorrected. not too shabby if i do say so myself :)