strawfordt

Thank you all!

I used the high temp silicon solution posted here. It seems to work very well. I love saving dough.

Thanks again.

Thanks Loren,

do you know if these headlight assemblies are made by Bosch or Hella?

All the best!

Tom

Hi there,

I'm looking for the Part Numbers for the Right and Left Headlight Assemblies and the Small Yellow Reflectors found on the Outboard Front Corner of the Right and Left headlight Assembly. Here are the details.

1998 Boxster,

Canadian Vehicle,

Grey Colour,

Halogen Type Bulbs

Yellow Reflectors

Thanks in advance

Tom

Put an HID kit in it, much better and cheap to do.

All high output normal bulbs produce more heat, heat will soften the plastic outer of the headlight unless you remember to switch headlights off when stationary in traffic, side lights are fine in this sittuation - You need the cooling air that occurs when driving to dissipate the heat build up - but if you sit in stationary or very slow traffic heat will build up

Thanks.

I'll definitely look into that but does anyone have a suggestion on a low cost fix for this? ie is the inner lens replaceable? Or can it be removed and polished?

Tom

Hello,

I found this thread by searching "headlight melt" I have attached two pictures to this post to see if I can find out if there is a way to repair this or what would be my cheapest and easiest option to replace it.

The drivers side looks melted and scorched whereas the pass side looks just scorched.

I have a 98 Boxster, 2.5 Litre, Canadian model, 106k kms.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tom

Looks Nasty! Now I see what you meant. What is the manual method without the 9616? Does it have to be powered?

I will have a look tonight. Are the pins on the DME connector labelled? Please say yes.

The plastic tube might work or talk really nice to one of the techs (6 pack or two) ;) ;) and they might let you borrow one.

Ahhh yes, the persuasive powers of a six pack.

Unfortunately, I live 250 miles from the Canadian dealer / authorised service center.

My only rapport is with a local independent who specialises in European vehicles.

For sure he won't have a 9616 special.

Pin 17 is ground right?

It is just a tool that lets you connect a test lead to the DME connector without shorting pins together - basically it is a break-out box.

000.721.961.60 Tool 9616 -- US MSRP $863.39 --- you don't want to buy one of these.

If you are accustomed to reading connector then you could very carefully just touch the tip to the correct pin.

Well, for sure I do not want to buy one. I also have the worst hands I know. (Gave up after 1 year of an Electronic Technology program because I kept frying circuit boards). If I were to try to read it out without the special tool 9616, then what are my connections assuming I connect directly to the harness plug? I am thinking i might be able to sheild the pins using a small plastic tube.

Sorry to ask so many questions.

P0102 Below lower limit

- Open circuit.

- Short circuit to ground

Check wiring from MAF sensor to DME control module for short to ground.

1. Remove connector of MAF sensor.

2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 17, and to ground, pin 6.

Display: infinite ohms

If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring for chafing and pinching damage.

Check wiring from MAF sensor to DME control module for continuity.

1. Remove connector of MAF sensor.

2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 17, and MAF sensor connector, pin 5.

Display: 0 - 5 ohms

If infinite ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

I hate to ask but... what is special tool 9616 and where can you get one?

I gather you feel that the issue is not the MAF. Am I correct?

Thanks for the help.

Loren and Mike.

Thanks for the info. I just pulled the MAF and I have the right part. Mine has both the correct Porsche # and the correct Bosch #. I also visually checked the wiring and nothing seems apparently wrong. Is there some other resistance or voltage checks I should look into?

My mechanic told me the MAF readings are btwn 4 and the low 3"s. What does that mean?

What do you guys think? Change the MAF again? it is only 1.5 years old and has less than 5,000 kms on it.

The car runs like a top and I have this CEL. It is driving me crazy!

Looking forward to your responses.

Anyone???? :huh:

Good Evening.

I was looking for a new MAF on the Pelican Parts Website and realised that they have two very different price points for the MAF that I need for my 98 Boxster, Non E-gas.

They have a Bosch model for about $206.50 and a Porsche OEM at $591.25. What is this about? I thought that the OEM part is a Bosch part!!!!!

I am trying to work out a codes issue (See topic "Could it be my MAF again?, Codes P0102, P1124, P1126").

Maybe I should have bought the OEM part!!!

Does anyone have know if there is a difference?

Thanks in advance

Tom

RFM

Thanks for the reply! I will certainly check the connector and the part number again.

What does the reading of 4 to low 3's mean? What are the numbers measuring?

These fault code combination indicates indeed a faulty MAF, especially P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor/below lower limit.

Perhaps a wrong part # ? Check the connector/wiring for corrosion and or proper fitting as well.

Good morning enthusiasts!

I have been fighting the following codes (P0102, P1124, P1126) for quite a while now.

My mechanic smoked the air intake system and has found some leaks that we fixed up and reset the codes. Within a few days my codes re-appeared so he did a MAF reading. He says that the MAF is reading between 4.0 and the low 3's. What this means, I have no idea but he says that this means the MAF is pooched.

My problem is that this MAF was essentially 7 months old when I first got this problem and for 6 of those months the car was in storage! The car runs great! No issues detected with performance. The MAF was bought from a reputable on line supplier, but is now 1.5 years old. I have only driven approximately 5,000 kms since putting this new MAF into the car.

Can someone explain the MAF readings to me and tell if this would be the true cause of the codes (or suggest another diagnostic test) before a spring for another expensive MAF.

Thanks to anyone that offers advice or suggestions.

98 Boxster, 100K kms, Canadian Model.

Regards

Tom

ekam

What is the Fun Run? Where is it? Please share some info. I am interested in learning a little more from some other Porsche owners and I am assuming the the Fun Run is a Porsche event.

Tom

Loren,

For the below issue, could it be my charcoal cannister valve stuck open thereby lowering the fuel pressure?

What do you think? I am running fine but still trying to fix these codes without going to the dealer which is a long way away.

P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

This means that your mixture is running too lean - that is, the DME can not make the mixture rich enough to compensate for additional air.

Potential fault areas:

- Intake air system leaking.

- Fuel pressure too low.

- Volume supply of fuel pump too low.

- Fuel injectors fouled.

petee c

What deal did you get? Maybe you can PM me to describe your deal. I understand that the laws have been changed in Canada and we do not have to change the bumpers anymore. That means virtually nothing needs to be done to make the car Canada ready.

I was really considering going to get a newer Boxster in the US.

Good luck

Tom

soopster

I just had my 1998 Boxster tested. The CEL light is on and I am trying to diagnose the cause but was out of time and had to test to get the plate renewed. I cleared the codes and took the car in for the test. It passed without issue.

I ALWAYS use Sunoco's Ultra 94 octane premium gas. The guy at the test center mentioned that "these cars always pass".

Don't sweat it. It is not a 1973 AMC Gremlin. You should be fine.

Tom

Thank you Loren,

I had seen this post before but I was not sure that the issue was the same because I have neither the "half moon" or the missing segment. Given my failure mode i wondered if there was an easier fix.

Thanks

Hi Everyone.

My Boxster is a 1998, 2.5 liter, Canadian unit with with 100k kms.

I have an issue with my climate control LCD display. I have searched other thread for similar issues but most other issues have been either the "half-moon" issue or a missing segment.

If you look at my picture it seems to be more of a worm path. The issue appearsed to grow after I started the car after winter storage. The battery was disconnected and reconnected just before the first start of the season. I swear icould see the worm path travel as the vehicle warmed up.

Does anyone know what this is and is it necessary to replace the display or the whole control unit?

Advice is always appreciated.

Thanks

Hi everyone, I am still hoping for a little help here. The once worked but is maybe just out of sync.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I have a Key Fob that does not work. I have searched the 986 section of the forum and cannot find any information on what to do or what to try. Manually, the key opens and closes the door and starts the car but the remote function does not work. I have replaced the battery but without any luck. I remember once reading about a procedure where you put the key in the ignition and but I do not remember the sequence of actions to get the key working again. What can be done? Any help is appreciated.

My car is a 1998 Canadian 2.5L Boxster.

Thanks Tom

Hello,

I have a Key Fob that does not work. I have searched the 986 section of the forum and cannot find any information on what to do or what to try. Manually, the key opens and closes the door and starts the car but the remote function does not work. I have replaced the battery but without any luck. I remember once reading about a procedure where you put the key in the ignition and but I do not remember the sequence of actions to get the key working again. What can be done? Any help is appreciated.

My car is a 1998 Canadian 2.5L Boxster.

Thanks Tom

Hello all.

I have read a lot of the posts concerning tire selection but am slightly confused and need some more help.

I drive a 1998 Boxster that as far as I can tell has the 17" wheel option. I live in Canada and only drive the vehicle in spring summer and fall. I never drive in weather under 50deg F and rain driving is very limited also.

I gather from what I have read the Michelins are the right choice for most boxsters. I wonder if this is true for my conditions also?

My next question is the type of Pilot Sport that I should be buying. Some of the shops are trying to sell my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. Seems to me that this is an all season version of the Pilot Sport. Does anyone have an opinion on this recommendation? I looked into the Pilot Sport PS2's and it would appear that the PS2's will not fit my front wheels My current Bridgestones are 205/50R17 on the front and 255/40R17 on the rear. how can I get PS2's all around or is there a better idea?

I know squat about the sizing and the selection of tires and would appreciatew some guidance.

Thanks

Wow Loren,

Very fast and insightful, thanks. Can you shed some light on a DME and what it is? I smell big bucks coming down the pipe to fix this one. Getting frightened here in Windsor.

Thanks again.