britdave

For years I have been using "Lucas" brand upper cylinder lubricant / fuel injector cleaner in all my cars, as well as Chevron "Techron" Injector cleaner every few fillups. Is there anything wrong with keeping this up for my new 911 ?, or for ANY 911  ❓  I have  two a 2002 & a 2017  "911"  . Thanks for any advice on this topic ? ? Britdave 

I have a new 2017 Carrera 991.2 , however I suppose this pertains to all Porsche's. For years I have been using "Lucas" brand upper cylinder lubricant / fuel injector cleaner in all my cars, as well as Chevron "Techron" Injector cleaner every few fillups. Is there anything wrong with keeping this up for my new 911 ? ❓ 

On 3/1/2018 at 9:30 AM, MartiniLinguini said:

Keep in mind Porsche always recommends replacing brake discs any time you replaced the brake pads.  A lot of new Porsche owners are taken by surprise when they go in for low pad warnings and are given a $1500+ estimate for only one axle.

 

Make sure you drive the car as it is intended. You can avoid a lot of future problems by regularly heat-cycling the engine. Since it is a direct-injected engine, you can make sure your valves stay clean by running the full RPM and load ranges frequently.

 

Your tires will appreciate high-g maneuvers, as this levels out the suspension under load and evens out the wear across the tread face.  

 

If you do not drive a minimum of 2 hours a week, get yourself a battery voltage maintainer. 

 Martini , could you expound on "Heat cycling the engine " please ? Do you mean like "drive it like you stole it " LOL ? In other words rev up to the red line ? Please xplain ? Thanks Dave 

A few months ago, after having a 996 for years, I bought a slightly used 2017 911/991 gen 2 , with just 2,100 miles on it. The car is great, but I was wondering about a few things, since this is my first "automatic transmission" 911 ?
First off, on a dead cold start, the engine revs way up (something that I know is NOT a good thing for a cold engine ) and will hold the higher revs (2000-2500 RPM approximately ) for about 15-20 seconds before going to about 750 rpm, is this normal ?

The other thing is when I nail it,'put my foot down , accelerate, the engine holds the lower gear, and high rpm , for a few seconds, AFTER I  get off (let off) the throttle, and it holds the gear, and keeps the RPMs high, it takes a few seconds to come back down, is this also normal ?  
Perhaps it is supposed to do this, so it might sound dumb on my part ? Holding the higher rpms/ hence lower gear , for a few seconds, after I let off the throttle just seems abnormal, why doesn't it shift to a higher gear and lower rpms right away   ?  And why should the rpms go so high on dead cold start, a few days after the last time I started it ? As I know , initial start up high revs are not good. 
Thanks for any advice on this issue, cheers Dave 

Thanks a lot JFP, much appreciated 

I was all set to do it myself on my "new 2017 911/991 gen 2 " , that just turned 3,000 miles. Got all the stuff (oil filter & O ring, new plastic drain plug, and even the special tool to remove and install the new plastic drain plug, THEN I remembered the warranty, and re-setting the on board computer display !  
Hence, fearing that issue, I took it to my local Independant Porsche tech here in Daytona, where I use to take my old 996, where I could get a receipt at least. He is very good, and I watched him do it, but realizing I could have easily done it too. 

So my questions are : #1. How does Porsche inc feel about the owner who wants to change his own oil, when the car is still under warranty ? I mean, how can you prove it was done ? At least my indy, gave me a dated receipt, showing he was a bonafide Porsche tech, and listed the Mobil 1 0-40 , and Porsche (Mahl) OEM filter .

#2. How does one re-set the onboard computer, ref the "oil change" ? 
If something were to happen to the motor, when it's still under warranty, and the owner has been doing all the oil changes, would that not void the warranty ?

Also my indy said the Mobil 1 0-40 is ok , but he recommends either the Mobil 1 5W-40 or "LIQUI MOLY" SAE 5W-40 (German oil) particularly here in Florida ! He also didn't like the plastic oil pan (with no cooling fins to dissipate heat) and this new style 1 1/2 turn plastic drain plug, apparently it's also used on newer VW's and Audi's  Then there is the air filter issue, were you have to remove the entire rear bumper ! 
It's quite apparent, that Stuttgart does not want us working on our own cars anymore, and what's with all this plastic stuff  Any advice/input on the latter is much appreciated  Thanks Dave C ( Ponce inlet Florida)

Thanks for the info, I just can't figure out why as to quote you "Like many other shops, we are no longer fans of M1 product's "    I always thought Mobil 1 was fine , and why do Porsche still use it for a factory fill ? Could please elaborate on why Mobil 1 is not that good ? Also are you sure that " Wix/NAPA Gold 57211" oil filter will fit a 2017 911/991 ?  I tried to find it on the NAPA site and it appears not to fit ? Please advise ? 

Thanks a lot, and I will be getting that Wix filter as you suggest if that number is correct ?   Thank U ! 

Thanks guys, much appreciated 

Getting ready to do my first oil change on my 2017 911/991 C2 . Can anyone recommend the best brand of oil filter, the part number and cost ?  They seem to vary in cost from $12 to $35 bucks, different brands and part numbers, on various sites, for the same brand filter ,which I find very confusing ??? Also, is it best to use Mobil 1 0-40 synthetic , or would you recommend another type & weight of oil ? I live in Florida, so Im concerned about 0-40 being to light in the hot summers we have here. Much thanks for this advice, cheers Dave  

Thanks fellas , I think Santa got me one,  but any others a bit cheaper than the Valentine , Escort, Bel tronics etc  ?  Also any other installation tips will be appreciated, so I don't ruin the interior on my brand new 911/ 991 Thank You 

Just bought my new  2017 - 911  Carrera 991 C2 , and wondering what type/brand of radar detector I should buy, and how to install it (hard wire it) ?

  I also read somewhere, one must be careful, where to place/mount the detector, due to some windshield (windscreen) tints, as that will adversely affect the performance of the radar detector.

Anyone have any thoughts or info, on name brands, how to install one, and the windshield tint issue ?    Much obliged & thanks 

11 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Do a search, servicing the 991 air filters has been covered before.  Not fun, but doable.

Ok thanks, but I looked on here, and couldn't find anything  and very little on the 2017 ,s ? I guess it's because they are so new ? 

After being away from this site for almost 2 years, due to my old 996 getting wrecked by my UK friend visiting, with me in it !  ( That's another story )

Anyhow, I just bought a new 2017 Porsche 911-991. 

I love to do a lot of the maintenance myself, as I did on my old 996, but was quite surprised the way things have changed over the last 15 years ! (My old 996 was a 2002)

The main thing that really shocked me was the access to the twin turbo  air filters ! (all 2017 911's have twin turbos now) 

It appears you have to actually remove the rear bumper to access the air filters !

Why the hell they designed it like that is anyone's guess ? But considering I've only had it for 3 days it appears that's the only way.

Anyone have any ideas on this ?  I'm really frustrated about it, and if I do decide to take it to the dealer, any idea of the cost , to replace the air filters ? Thanks Britdave 

Britdave, 

 

If you are interested in taking your settlement from the insurance company and selling the car as-is, I would be interested in buying it. This is what I do. The car does not have to be totaled. You can take the settlement and sell the car as-is. Everything has a value. Their is nothing wrong with a salvage or previously wrecked car that is repaired correctly and put back on the road. Hell, half the cars on the road now have had some kind of damage or another. I have been doing this for thirty years and pride myself on doing quality work. Even if you have a previously salvaged car it still has value and can be a cheaper opportunity to own something that may have previously been out of reach. I value my rebuilt cars at around the rough book value or about 30% off of full retail price as an average............Message me if you are interested. Kevin.

Thanks Kevin, I'll keep that in mind.

As of late it appears they( The insurance co)  want to try to repair it, it's been taken to a Porsche authorized body shop in Orlando, that has a very good reputation.

Once there they ( The Porsche authorized body shop)  will also/ AGAIN assess the damage, and possible infamous hidden damage ?  I'll know more next week, hope fully before Christmas ? I suppose your right though, in ref to "If it's done right"  the repairs. Time will tell ?

If it's repaired, and I do decide to sell it, or trade it in for a newer 911, I sure hope this crash doesn't come back to haunt me on the Carfax  :cursing:

Thanks for all the advice, MUCH appreciated. I'll get back on here in a few days, after I see what the " final "  determination will be ? Today the first ones to determine the repair cost said $10, 900.00 but it has to go to someone else, then the body shop, then the Porsche dealer.

As I said, I don't think it will ever be the same, I'm really pushing for a total write off. Stay tuned, and thanks again . :thankyou:  Cheers Dave. 

Wheels and other bits don't like being hit from the side.  I have had this once on a car (not a Porsche) and even though it happened at very low speed it buckled the sub frame, but all other suspension members were undamaged. Although the cosmetic things might be OK, there may be unseen damage to cope with which might be hard to find at first.  

Thats what I'm thinking Hilux , I don't think it will ever be the same if they go for a repair.  :wrench:  :censored:

Over here in the States, they have something called "Carfax" that will show this  crash on a police report, and what happened on line, you just run the VIN number. It's like a car having a criminal record, I sure wouldn't want to buy a car like this involved in a bad crash, so re selling it would be a BIG loss. I'll know more next week after the insurance adjuster makes a determination ?

I'm hoping for a write off/ total as they say, from what I'm reading and seeing, I don't think repair is a viable solution ? Also waiting to hear back from "White 987 S "  and his advice on how to deal with State Farm Insurance, when and if they do make it a write off, what to do/say etc ?

Remember my 2003 911/  996 only had 26, 700 miles on the clock , and in great shape, either way perhaps it  will be a financial loss  :cursing:

 

With that low mileage I would gues $30k before the incident. FL total loss threshold is 80% so most likely they won't total it. I would expect a $15k repair quote easily though.

Just tow it to the dealer (or your favorite body shop that specializes in Porsche) and let them work with the adjuster and see. Once the car is repaired, you can further decide what to do with it.

I know how you feel now but give it some time, the pain will go away eventually.

I agree with most of this, except the pre-accident value of $30k. That's too high in my opinion. That number is much closer to $20 than to $30.

 

If the air bags blew, (can't tell from pics) it will be a total loss.

If the frame is bent (probably not, but needs to be checked/inspected) it will be a total loss.

 

If State Farm (great, fair company) declares a total loss, come back here and update us. I'll give you further advice how to negotiate with their Total Loss Department.

 

Glad no one was injured.

 

This is why I never let just anyone drive my Porsches.

 

This is why I most always decline driving other people's cars, when offered.

 

Ill know more next week ?  :huh:

The airbags did NOT go off, but considering the left rear wheel violently hit the curb as we did a 360 spin, (unseen damage, the back "looks" fine ??? )

I'm thinking unseen damage to the trans axle, motor , rear suspension etc  "White 987S ", not to mention the front end , steering,  radiators, right frt wheel rim bent, and more.

So far it really looks like a write off/ total loss. When I looked on line a basic 2 wheel drive, 2002 -996- 911 is going for anywhere from $19K to $ 28 K depending on mileage and condtion. Please bear in mind this car was in VERY good shape and only had 26, 850 miles on the clock, lower mileage than any similar car I could find on line, although supposedly State Farm takes that into consideration ?

My friend also mentioned to me, if and when I get paid off ? I should ask State farm to buy it back, as he thinks they would sell it back to me for $2,000 or $3,000 as is ? Just telling them I want it for parts etc.

Point is this crash will be on Carfax, ref police report (it's like having a criminal past, LOL )  so selling it in the future,  would be a hassle, even if my friend and I buy it from State farm, try to get it repaired, and re-sell it ? Please let me know any advice as you say here : "If State Farm (great, fair company) declares a total loss, come back here and update us. I'll give you further advice how to negotiate with their Total Loss Department."  Unquote.

Any further advice on any of this will be MUCH appreciated as I think they will make me an offer next week. :help: 

At this point, I don't think I want it repaired , would you ?  Any other advice from you guys will be appreciated. Thanks Dave. 

Thanks I do feel a bit better, but also feel bad for my mate that was driving it. We'll see what the future brings ?  Cheers Dave.

Thanks for the advice Ahsai, yea it's a real shame, it was great shape as it only has 26 K miles on the clock,and clean. That's the kicker, and you know the insurance company (State Farm) probably wont take that low mileage into account, or will they ?

Not to sure what it would have been worth pre crash? (2002- 996, stick, very clean with LOW 26K mileage) But I hear ya !

My other friend (not the one who wrecked it) reminded me this happens often at the track, so it's no big deal , and will be "good as new" ? Another guy said "It's just cosmetic" :censored:  Nah !

 I'm making sure it goes to a Porsche dealer for repairs though, left front radiator smashed as well, and who knows what else ?  I'll probably sell it or trade it for a loss, when I get it back, if it's not totaled due to repair cost ?

I'm pretty sure there will be more issues from this wreck in the future ? Front end especially ! As said, on the back end left  wheel took a big hit when it hit the curb, and jumped it. As you can see left front hit the pole, which crashed across the hood/ bonnet. And somehow the passenger right front wheel rim got hit and bent  :cursing:   Not sure what to do with it now ?  Thanks, anyone else got any advice ?  Cheers Dave

Here are two others

Any advice on anything mechanical I need to know about this ? ( Hope photo comes out ?) I let my UK friend drive it, he pulled a U turn, forgot about the motor in the rear, nailed the throttle as the was in the U turn. Bad mistake, but we were ok, but OH my poor 996, and the light pole ! Oh yea, the back left wheel, hit the curb as well but the rear body has no damage, except for the drivers side rear wheel, but was wondering about trauma to the drive train, motor crankshaft  ? Front rt wheel rim is bent also. So anything that you think may plague me, now or in the future, please let me know. Now I'm going to cry again  :oops:

Thanks Dave, it all sounds a bit complicated, even frustrating ?

Perhaps I'll just wait for it all to peel off, as it's all black under the "seal grey" that would be easier, LOL. I wonder what the Porsche dealers do, with used ones, as this is an ongoing issue ?  Two Porsche owners I know have the same problem, to bad they don't have it available in a small touch up paint bottle ? A great, expensive car like this, with such a crappy interior finish, terrible. I've never seen this on any other cars, and I've had many, it flakes off if you just look at it    :cursing:

Thanks fellas , but could you be a bit more specific, ref doing this job. Is there a special type of paint, and procedure to use, and I really don't want to do everything , just touch up the original, IF I can find the matching paint ? Mine is called "seal grey" I believe. Any other info would be appreciated. Thanks Dave

I have a 2002 -996 -911, that is in great shape, has only 26K on it , garage kept, but the interior cabin paint ( "Seal grey interior" ) around the dash, A/C vents, the hand brake, and console area, is peeling and flaking off. It's getting to look really bad now, and reveals black below the grey. Is there some type of touch up paint available for this ? 

Although I love my 911, I have noticed Porsche appears to use some type of cheap inferior quality plastic , on the sun visors, and other areas of the dash board. Any ideas on this and the peeling / flaking paint ?  Thanks Dave

He said IMS broke then it cost him $17k. Most likely he meant an engine rebuild or used engine

Hope so  WOW $$$ ?

So I'm assuming to do the RMS and the IMSB, clutch kit etc, it's "about" $2,500.00 with an indy, that right ? That's what I was trying to find out originally ? Thanks guys.