catmanluge

Will th edurametronic system work on a 2010 Boxster use the same electronic system as a 2008?

My engine has M96 0166W050SU

I guess we will need Lorens clarification!

I glad I don't live in CA any longer...

The Swepco works fine. Erik at Gbox (the transmission rebuild company) recommended the Swepco 201, Gbox knows their stuff so I took his advice. I had drained the original transmission fluid about a year back and replaced it with someone's recommendation of Redline products (Shockproof and another Redline lube) in hopes of helping the 2nd Gear pop-out issue, it didn't. Good luck.

This is really a Great Write up! I used 11MM for the rear main seal and had a machine shop built one out of alum. No leaks yet with 6,000 miles the machine shop was short money!

well through frustration and despair got the outer race out....it was not pretty but everything looks to be in good condition now, the new bearing is installed.

time to start putting everything back together so i can reinstall the engine

on and the circlip never did get popped out of place, i did verify that, not sure why the thing would not ever move, except that it was extremely tight. The new bearing going in was quite tight too, however i do believe with the clip removed on the new bearing that it will pull out again

Not sure of your last statement? You didn't put the clip back in did you?

The double row bearings are hold and saved by a circular steel spring, which is not accessible from outside, between the inner side of the tube and the outer cover of the bearing, and are very difficult to remove without damaging the tube, oil pump drive, etc. on the opposite side of the tube, one of the reasons Porsche refuses to sell the bearing separately. Single row bearings cause no problems by a replacement, the resistance is much less. Success.

What would be the results if you loosen the case bolts in that section of the housing? Could that create enough slack to release the bearing?

I'll second that!

Thanks To all!

I heard someone say that there is a different oil pan baffel for 3.4 engines MY 2000 and later. Does anyone have the part number of the updated engine baffel.

I keep haveing problems when in high "G" force cornering situations with oil smoke.

Update on 3.4 Installation.

I want to (again) thank everybody that was involved with information, words of wisdome and help.

I installed the third radiator and temperatures NEVER go above 103deg Celcius (217 F) in hot 35deg Celcius (95 F) South African heat as displayed by the centre airconditioning display. Actually, if I keep the airconditioner on the temperature never goes above 96 deg C (204 F).

Before I installed the third radiator the temperature went up to 113 deg C (235 F) before the temperature will go down again to 96 and then go trough the cycle again.

The engine has done 25 000 km (15 534 miles) since the installation. Absolutely no problems. The engine runs perfect. No oil useage, no oil leaks, no noises, no vibrations i.o.w. just like a factory installed engine.

Regards

Pieter

At last!!!!

The most stress I had in a lifetime for the past 4 months!

From buying an engine kind of blindly... accross the ocean, shipping it via unknown people, to starting this afternoon.... probably the most stupid thing I had done in all my life, but when that engine started this afternoon I felt like a little boy with my first bicycle...

Let it be known: my engine 996 (3.4) started today at 1pm in my 1997 Boxster.

Status:

I started the engine with my existing DME (996.618.601.02) It still has the 2.5 programme in it and I will visit Porsche SA on Wednesday to load the 996 programme. (If the 996.618.601.02 cannot be re-programmed, I have a 996.618.601.04 will see on Wednesday.)

I used a SPEC stage 2 clutch.

The 996 flywheel does not fit with the Boxster 5 speed transmission so I used the Boxster's flywheel. Hope this will do.

I want to thank everybody that so kindly assisted me with information.

Special thanks to:

Tholyoak Todd.. if it wasnt for you I would have never have attempted this. (Sorry for the mistaken identity at one stage and for that I accidently pi@@ed you off.)

Qikqbn Bill... Thanks for your help and assistance.

Loren for your directions...

Renntech for have created this site.

LA Dismantlers... initial not to good experience but eventually goods delivered as promised. I now hold thumbs that the engine is good for a few million miles..

Thanks again everybody.

Pieter

RE the oil baffle was around $30 but needs some Porsche sillicon gasket stuff to reseal the oil case.

By chance do you havge the part number for the baffle?

I do not think it's so easy to just have the biggest pipe! :rolleyes:

I only need one cat per side here in Sweden!

\

I have 2.5 inch stainless steel pipes with HiFlow Cats on each side they were made with a pipe bender and not that diffeercult. I would love to have a 3.8 instead of my 3.4.. Next swap maybe!

I purchased a Agency Power Exhaust System from Vivid Racing after seeing it advertised and discussed on various Porsche forums. A representative from Vivid Racing stated that the exhaust would specifically fit a 987.2 car.

Turns out it does not, fitment is different for Gen I and Gen II cars. I contacted Agency Power and received confirmation about this from a rep named Matt Jobin, "We have not installed one of these on a 987.2. This is designed to fit the first Gen 987"

I had the exhaust professionally installed and the installer modified the exhaust for fitment (shortened the pipe leading into the resonator) This of course makes my problems with the product more complex. The installer made the fitment without my knowledge, however the product should have never required specialized fitment. My complaints:

1) The exhaust has signifiant drone and reverberation, it is not acceptable for daily driving as advertised by Vivid Racing.

2) Additional cost I incurred for installation, an additional 1.5 hours of shop labor time.

I contacted Dan Mermelstein from Vivid Racing who was completely unhelpful and shrugged the issue off. He's response was I received a discount on the exhaust (apparently discounts mean no customer service) and that the exhaust is modified and no longer his problem. This issue resulted as a direct result of Dan's advertising this exhaust fitting my specific vehicle. The exhaust was miss advertised and therefore certainly his problem.

Further research shows that Vivid Racing and Agency Power are the same company. Under no circumstance should this exhaust have been sold to a 987.2 owner when Agency Power had never even tested the product on it. I am very displeased with the customer service and how the issue has been handled by both companies.

I would recommend anyone considering purchasing from Vivid Racing make your decision carefully as they will not provide you acceptable service if you have issues with their products. I would also be wary of products from Agency Power as they do not test their products before selling them, and if a issue should occur neither company will honor their products.

Are you talking about Vivid Racing from California or the one from Florida?

The seat heating is controlled through the individual (left and right) power seat control units.

So the Left seat would be fuse E1 (30A)

and

the Right seat would be E2 (30A).

Thanks

How much does a boxster 2.5 M96 engine weigh? Will a 750 lb. engine stand hold it? will an 800 lb. hoist move it? If I had to guess, its in the 700lb. area, maybe less...

I had a 996 3.6 engine shipped with exhaust and it weighed a little less than 450lbs.

mike

Me too with pallet 465 lbs

2007 Boxster S

Can anyone tell me where the fuse is located for heated seats? :renntech:

Coolant would smell and have a slightly oily feel. Most likely is WW fluid.

Either a broken line or a leaky pump or a cracked tank. You will need to remove the wheel and wheel liner to inspect. The tank and pump(s) (two if you have headlight washers) are high up in the left front fender.

Check the hose behind the fender well as my 986 hose was 1/2 of an inch too short -- :renntech: replaced with longer hose and problem ended...

... unless you provide them with the original receipt of purchase.

I had purchased a short shift kit from them many years ago.

I went with them instead of Schnell because they offered a "lifetime warranty".

Last week one of the teflon bushings (rearmost) gave out on me and I couldn't shift gears.

I called B&M and they told me that I just need to send the original receipt (which I've lost after so many years).

They wouldn't budge on this.

I asked them to sell me the broken bushing, they wouldn't.

The solution for them was for me to buy a new shifter.

Well, the solution for me was to make my own bushing!

But it really p!sses me off that a company offers a lifetime warranty and when that unit breaks they won't stand behind their promise.

If it's a lifetime warranty why do they require your receipt? Sears doesn't!

Finished ranting.

Happy Boxstering,

Pedro

Don't you just love companies like that what do they think you would do with that bushing? That sucks!

My problems was solved by readjusting the height of the fuel injectors. Because I used the Boxster Fuel Rails the that required new brackes to fit on the 3.4 intake they were set to low. Raising the fuel rails slightly solved my problem.

Traqmate is very good but not cheap. Its also very realiable...

If you stick your little finger in the filler hole you can feel a "Ridge". That Ridge is 11 mm below the filler hole...

Try Silkoline real slick!

:renntech:

I replaced mine with Mobil 1 synthetic when I had the tranny out to replace my RMS and clutch in March 08. Easy to tell where 11mm is when the tranny is out on the jack. In May 08 I replace my shifter to the eBay short throw and it shifts extremely smooth.

I just spent three days at Watkins Glen I had to empty the catch can four times. I think I will put some sort of drain tube in the bottom of the catch can so it can be emptied easily. I used a vacumn pump with plastic tubes to empty the can through a 3/8 inch hole on the top of the catch can. On the top of the catch can I drilled a 3/8 hole as a breather it has a 3/4 inch opening on the top which I placed a 3/4 inch plastic tube that was extened from a Porsche plastic tube that is connected to the top of the AOS. I blocked the intake manifold vacumn with no leak experianced.

The catch can was tie wraped on to the shifting cables at the rear of the engine. I have to make a more solid mounting bracket.

There is no oil in the catch can with normal driving but with high revs and lots of g force turns it does fill up. I could run abouth 1.5 hours.

No Blue smoke!!!! :renntech:

I made a catch can type set up with my AOS system trying to stop oil from entering the intake manifold. I blocked the intake hole with siliconed "Cap" that fit tightly over the intake. Then attached a catch bottle on the side of the frame behind the engine bay. From the AOS I placed a tube that fits into the catch bottle and vented the top of the bottle so that air can escape but not oil. I am hoping that this will stop my oil blow out on hard left and right hand turns at the track..

Has anyone else tried this? :renntech:

Can you post a picture?

I was trying to help a guy locally that had the same issue. We were going to install a Porsche Motorsports AOS, which is what I did on my 2004, and that solved the problem on my car.

But when I got into the engine bay, I realized his year car did not have the same configuration. At some point, it looks like Porsche changed how the AOS is mounted - on my car, it is mounted on the bottom, with the bolts through the base. On my friend's older model, it is mounted with bolts through the side, so the motorsports AOS wouldn't fit. Not sure what model year was the first to change.

We have been thinking about going the catch can route.

So you left the AOS in place with the hose still going to cylinder 4, but disconnected where it goes into the throttle body and routed that to a catch can?

We were not sure what effect a catch can would have on the vacuum, and where thinking about a sealed can and still have a connection to the throttle body, but configured so the oil is trapped.

Really interested in what you've done.

What is the "state" of the oil returning back to the throttle body?

could a catch can in series that was physically lower than the throttle body. Say it entered at the catch can at bottom, and came out the top.

therefor gravity would help capture, yet all vacuums etc would work, as well as it would start smoking again

when the catch can was "full".

m

I made a catch can type set up with my AOS system trying to stop oil from entering the intake manifold. I blocked the intake hole with siliconed "Cap" that fit tightly over the intake. Then attached a catch bottle on the side of the frame behind the engine bay. From the AOS I placed a tube that fits into the catch bottle and vented the top of the bottle so that air can escape but not oil. I am hoping that this will stop my oil blow out on hard left and right hand turns at the track..

Has anyone else tried this? :renntech:

VELCRO It works great! :renntech:

I have a 987 with the stock floor mats and I find that the driver's side mat just won't stay in place while driving. :-/ Are there any ingenious solutions for this issue out there that do not involve gluing velcro to the mat or the carpet? How do you keep your floor mats from moving around?

Thanks,

Jason

I used a 3.5 inch metal tube and mated the MAF from my original with silicone and rivets. It works fine plus made a cold air intake box out of aluminium to relace the stock air box. 3.5 inch Silicone tubing connects the tube coming out of the new air box to the Throttle Body..

The cayman is also variocam plus, I think the 996 will be variocam only. A lot of cayman 3.4 owners fit the Gt3 throttle body from a 996 as part of the softronic ECU upgrade, this releases another 20-40 Hp when installed with a sports exhaust. Possibly worth considering at the same time as you will be creating a hybrid anyway.